Go back to part 1: Customer States: Fix everything! Plus Some! https://youtu.be/xOlkvZM1hqs
This is part 2.
Part 3: Finishing up! Melling Oil Pump Upgrade! GM 5.3 V8 https://youtu.be/m1AS-3IMsjU
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This is part 2.
Part 3: Finishing up! Melling Oil Pump Upgrade! GM 5.3 V8 https://youtu.be/m1AS-3IMsjU
Check out my Merchandise Store Below the video for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers! https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Support the channel on Patreon check out the bio: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage right now
Must have for any toolbox!
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
GearWrench Hose Clamp Pliers: https://amzn.to/33YCVJ3
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 8 https://amzn.to/3mPnpFA
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 8 Dual Charger https://amzn.to/3EId84c
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Hello everybody good morning, good afternoon or good evening, whichever one of those applies to you at this current point in time, uh. Some of you folks may remember or recognize this black chevy tahoe with the shiny wheels. It was here not long ago for an inspection and we had located an oil pan leak and uh. The customer wants to have me repair the pan, gasket and button up the leak, but while i'm in there, they would also like the oil pump replaced.
Now. That's kind of a separate job, so i'm gon na have to pull the pan down and i'm gon na have to pull the timing cover off uh just to get to get the oil pump off because it's part of the timing cover or it's under the timing Cover area so, while i'm in there and while all that stuff is apart, i'm also going to toss a timing chain in this. Having said that, time is of the essence. My time is valuable.
Your time is valuable, so without any further ado or introduction. Let's get this bad boy into the shop and uh get to work, tahoe powering down tahoe moving back up, i think i'll. Do the pan gasket replacement portion of this repair first and once this pan is removed i'll uh, we'll let this thing back down and go up under the hood and start pulling the timing cover and whatnot off that'll be uh. That was my plan of action.
Why won't you come out, like i said earlier, the reason that we're doing this is because of this oil leak right here, which is coming from up here and uh. There's some on the other side over there on the on the driver's side and uh, like i mentioned customer, would like the oil pump replaced. Also, okay, we're done draining oil. Let's put this uh plug back in and uh get this pan removed.
Now many of you have seen uh this type of operation before so i'm gon na move along rather quickly on this particular aspect, so we're starting here on the driver's side and i'm gon na start pulling all the uh oil pan perimeter bolts out: hmm wow. Those are freaking tight, yeah, like i said last video uh. This job had been done before wow, but uh. This pan obviously is still leaking, and now i'm starting to see why hey that one came out all right.
Okay, i flipped you guys around a little bit. We're looking at the oil filter the block off plate for the cooler lines that are optional on some models and this little plastic thing. I need to get this bolt out right here. Behind the plastic thing, i should have used proper terminology which would be a bell.
Housing cover yeah. That's what i'll call it. That's tight! Okay, let's move up front. There are more bolts over here to play with, but i need to slide this out of the way this wiring harness.
Now i can get to these two front bolts again with uh my extension. I may end up having to uh unbolt the power steering rack. Oh come on manual clicks manual, reverse click, we've just got too much torque and that extension is too long. Oh wow, that's tight come on, might as well go in there and get this one too, while we're here. Okay, all right now that i have the bolts loose. I can take the bolts loose all right. Look at here. We can see the fresh silicone right along here on the front of the cover: okay, moving on more bolts, this side, we're on the passenger side.
Now, let's move that bracket, there's a bolt behind it. Let's get that next more over here and then we're on the move. Again, let's scoot you guys up and in - and we have another bell housing cover right here and i am ahead of myself. I have to pull that starter out, yeah, i'm so far ahead.
I'm behind look at that. Let's see how tight these bolts are. I bet they're stupid, tight, oh nope, not even loosey goosey, that's great starter motor. Coming with me.
It's not really going very far. I'm just gon na pull it out enough to uh get this plastic cover out of here. Then the starter can just uh, relax and stay right about here. It seems like a good spot, because i really only need to get to this last bolt here.
All right. Moving back ah flashlight hit me in the face like in the eye that was awesome yeah. It was this one that was like attack of flashlight gravity anyway, as i was saying, we're moving back over here again got two more bolts that go through the bell housing into the pan, and those are the last two holding the pan in. Oh, it's coming right for me.
What is this? That's a bunch of crap! Oh the pins, loose oops exxon valdez in the making solve this problem very easily. There we go okay! Next on my list. I need to remove this cross member because the pan can't come down enough to be removed, so we've got uh four bolts, two on each side does come out next loud noise. This morning, two down two to go.
All right. Cross member come on out, come out, got it. It appears that i do have a functioning memory. I will not be able to get this pan out due to this line.
Right here see the last guy. I already bent it so i'm trying to sneak this out. So i need to unbolt uh this power, steering rack and just kind of let it dangle down some to give me some clearance here. That operation will be achieved from the front side.
Again, we've got two big bolts here and then one down in that hole right there. Maybe two yeah, there's the second one, all right: let's get these little 18s first there's one other one's inside of that hole right there, all right, let's get the big 24s next. This one here that was loud all right, steering gear moved okay back around back. Let's pull the pan down she's free and loose all right, so closer inspection.
Here we can see we do have a new perimeter, gasket newish, it's blue! That's how you can tell uh. Here's our oil pickup tube, there's the bottom of the dipstick uh this plate here is called a windage tray and that is designed to keep oil from splashing up and contacting the crankshaft uh, thus robbing the engine of potential horsepowers all right. Utilizing my uh miniature pry bar: let's go ahead and separate this gasket from the block shouldn't be too hard as long as all that silicone, let's go, i think we're fine yeah yeah we're good here. Come out! Oh sorry, i punched you fellas in the face again we're all done down here for now, let's get back up top and start pulling the engine accessories off and get this timing cover and pulleys and whatnot removed, because the oil pump is back behind. All of this good stuff, so we need to get in there next tahoe, coming down all the way down. Okay, first of all, goodbye engine cover remove the intake tubing come the here belt is next on my hit mist real real super duper, easy, probably not 100 necessary, but we're gon na remove this pulley for fun. It was worth it just for the reverse plate. Okay, next, i'm busting out the coolant evacuation machine i'll, try it here at the overflow tank first, just to uh minimize potential spillage, it's working, uh negative.
It was working a little bit, but not enough to actually extract any of the of the coolant. Now we're moving along we'll be right back. Okay, i have enough coolant to remove where uh we can start pulling these water pump bolts out. There are six of them three here and three over here.
Okay, let's get our first set out right now. We need a running start on that one all right, there's our first three ding bolts are done three down three go. I know i'm being a little rough with this thing. That was a satisfying crackle that it made all right and i'm just gon na kind of sling this thing over here to the side.
We don't need to pull it all the way out. Just stick it over here and hold up with a bungee cord. Let's see we'll pop these old gaskets out of here, not without a mini pry bar and uh numero dolls come here all right. Well, sooner or later, this uh crankshaft pulley, slash, harmonic balancer needs to come out.
So, let's see if i can't get the bolt out right now, yes says i that's nice. These ac belts are stretched to fit you'll notice, an absence of a tensioner so uh. That being said, since these are stretched to fit uh, i won't be able to reuse it. So i'm just gon na remove it the easy way with monoi we have a sensor and its corresponding cover flash guard.
There is another bolt, but it's behind the crank. Pulley i'll have to pull this fully off first before i can get this little cover guy out of there, okay, moving back up for the crankshaft pulley, all right up from the bottom side. First things: first, we need to get well, maybe not. Maybe i got space hang on.
Let me pause. Okay. Now we've got a decent view from the front of the crank pulley. Here you can see our crankshaft here and then the pulley is pressed over the snout of the crank and we need to pull that off now.
There is a flat behind this flange right here here and here i'm going to install a puller, that's going to grab onto those flats press against the crankshaft and it's going to pull the pulley off of the crank. That's the idea! Now, let's see come to fruition so to speak, these are always fun to uh to get installed. They don't cooperate very well because they're very flippity-floppy. I think i got it. No. I thought wrong all right now. I think i got it. Let's run down the center threaded rod and that's gon na press against the snout of the crank.
It's gon na pull this pulley off. No, don't turn it's not what i said we were gon na do and i'm commanding the universe at my will this week. So uh no screwing around that was bull grabbing yeah it's coming out. This is taking too long here.
Let's unconnect this guy's brand new 10 to 12 wheels wire, oh another one. It has deceived me. Let's get these sensors out of our way right now on clickage. Ah, that's freaking tight, that's uh! That's the reason i busted out the little wobbly and we're gon na have to convert that to super extended wobbly.
I think i can get that guy out of here without uh, taking the compressor and compressor bracket off. I don't want to do all that, so if i can get away with it, that's what i'm gon na do. Well, i got it loose. Kinda, oh binding, still binding.
I have an idea. Haha come here. I win hey, there's one! I missed that one buzz that out. I think, there's just like three or four left at the top.
So let's just finish it off pull gravity got it twice got. It fell right into my lap. Oh okay! Oh that one didn't fall. It's over here got that one too.
Okay, i think that's all the bolts for the cover. Yes, it is, let's go ahead and get this guy out. This may be the first time i took a timing cover out on one of these from the bottom: hey, there's the goods right there. All righty next is going to be this oil pickup tube.
It does have a nut that boils into the windage tray in the back. You see back there, we're gon na go ahead and pull that out. I think that's the right one yeah, there's two got it it's over here to your right and we've got the one bolt that holds the pickup tube to the oil pump. Let's get that out, that's a unique bolt, so we're gon na make sure we don't uh.
Forget where that came from and let's get the tube out here - she comes okay. Now that the pickup tube is gone, we've got four bolts holding the pump in, let's lose those again. I want to put these bolts back where they came from just in case there's a difference between these particular bolts and others of a similar size, because most of these are all the same size, it could be the same bolt same part, number, etc. But i don't care these are going back with the oil pump, all right pump bump just slides off.
You can see. It's drive gears right here. That is also run off of the uh timing chain. Sprocket.
It's pressed onto the crankshafts now, okay, let's get out of here - it's kind of a dungeon under the front of this thing and let's move back up top, we need to rotate this assembly around in order to get the timing marks lined up properly and i'll. Do that by turning the crank with the crankshaft bolts, all right, let's get this thing turned around. I see one mark right here but uh. I don't know where the mark is on the crank pulley just yet or the sorry the crank sprocket yeah. I still don't see the mark. It should be right here on one of these teeth, trying to figure out how to get these marks right, but we're getting somewhere. I see, i see one right here: yeah, here's, the wood drift key, there's a dimple right there. So we're gon na line this one straight up, we'll line this one straight up: here's the other mark.
Okay, that's how this goes. Yeah, there's the mark! There there's the mark there all right. Let's pull this vvt sprocket slash, uh camshaft sprocket off, then we can change the chain and the guide, because i did get a guide in the kit. Pull you back out, give that a wiggle.
It has achieved freedom. Now we're going to be reusing. This piece here here she comes hey and the guide already fell apart. Okay, here's our new unit, it's actually a tensioner, not a guide.
This thing is spring-loaded and it's held into place with the solar grenadine right here, so once uh once the chain is set up. We pull that pin and that will apply some pressure to the chain, keeping it tight on its slack side, pre-clicks and actual clicks. These are going to be soft click, so you guys might not hear them very good one more all right. Okay, i have the new chain hung on the sprocket.
Let me go ahead and slip this on taking care to attempt to maintain the proper orientation here i may have to adjust it. I don't know yeah, i'm gon na have to adjust this somehow some way. There's that flashlight again change of plans having a hard time getting this chain past the guide right here. So we'll do that.
First, there there got her stay. Okay. Now, let's get this sprocket in. Let's see get the gears on the chain, i'm failing come on.
Sprocket gear up this thing gon na fit, and i am a two off - maybe two back it out, try it again. Let's see, i think, i'm one tooth off, try it again. There we go come on go in there. I feel the pin it's like right there.
There we go caption, that's fantastic put our bolt back in. We need that. Okay, threads are started good, very good. This makes me happy.
Okay, let's just tighten up the crank ever so slightly in its direction of rotation. That way, it has no slack on the tension. Side of the chain barely moved, so we took out any slack that might have been there. Let's recheck the marks right here on the top we've got a little mark pointed straight up.
That's where we left it: okay, right here on the top we've got the vertical mark pointed straight up right where we left it and down here. I hope you guys can see. There's the little dimple right there again pointed straight up right where we left it. The chain is good: let's pull the pin firing the hole. Nothing happened. Look at that! Okay leave my bolt back. Let's get that out of here tool malfunction. The button was not fully depressed right, let's go ahead and get this gasket surface cleaned off.
You know the drill make it nice and shiny, so our knee gas gets done. That's not gon na work, yeah we'll give it a good wipe down with a towel, and then i can get the timing cover back on come here. Looking good there, we go nice and shiny all right time to get the new oil pump installed. This is a melling unit.
It's supposed to be a high volume pump. This is what they have chosen, and that is what i will install. I need to line up the little uh little grooves. First, let's try that oh yeah there we go.
That's it four bolts, we'll run those down and apply some actual clicks to them. Get in there pump is seated 25 newton meters. Here we come, i believe, that's 18 foot pounds of torque clickage yep, one more yep, okay dope. Now that the oil pump is in, we can get the timing cover in.
This is a new cover with a let's see, a new gasket see right here. On the back side, we've got all the bolts already set up. I've transferred over the bbt uh solenoid. I think that's the solenoid and uh the camshaft position sensor.
Oh, you know what i've got to take this one out. This is that goofy awkward, one down in the corner i'll, do that one! Last okay, cover's in position. Let's just get a couple of the bolts lined up, and then we can run all these down. Wow scrape my finger that hurt yeah we're good, no worries, as always, i'm going to get them all started first before i apply any torque to any of them.
Thus, preventing alignment issues there we go, let's run them down most of the way and i'll get that sneaky guy. Oh, how fun we took this out from the bottom, put it back from the top okay. Those are mostly in all the way. Let's get this uh little troublesome sneaky guy in there, this might be harder than i anticipated now.
No, no we're good. This is gravy there. We go kind of spoke too soon, wow that hurts the flanges. Okay, click! Wonderful! We're! Looking for 12 newton meters of torque! Here, uh that one yeah it's gon na be fun actual clicks, complete, almost one more good, we'll get that sneaky one to approximately 12 newton meters yeah.
I think that feels good. All right, everybody we're about out of time for this one uh. I think i'm gon na go ahead and bring uh. This particular video to conclusion, because, like i mentioned earlier, i'm gon na break this one up into two parts, so uh uh tomorrow morning, when i come back in when we get started, we're gon na get this water pump on we'll get uh all the cool hoses. On then, we'll go back down below for the bottom of that oil pan and the pickup tube. Oh, i can't forget the crank uh crank pulley that should be fun to press on. So that being said, i will see you guys on the next one on the conclusive part, two, as always i'd like to thank you for watching my videos. I hope you enjoy my videos.
If you do enjoy my videos, please feel free to communicate that to me highly effectively by tapping that, like button down below and most importantly, do not forget to have yourself a great day, see you guys later bye, end of transmission.
Noooooo I seeee dormannnnnnn nooooooooooo comeback guaranteed.
what about the oil pump pickup tube and the Oring.
oops you forgot to remove the oil filter Ray
Blood is tool lubricant….
Rainman which hand cleaner do you used Goop or other cleaner?.
you like showing us your wobbly bits
I didn't see why the customer wanted a new oil pump but if he had an inside gauge and noticed it was a little low he might be disappointed with his high volume oil pump. High volume does not mean high pressure. The high volume pumps have a relatively low pressure dump valve, so pressure may even be lower than the old pump. Ask me how I know.
I enjoyed the nod to South Main Auto
"Ding bolts are done." LMAO!!! Honestly Ray, I think your haters and hard critics are jealous. Many Repair and custom/workshop guys try to "over Professional" the next guy. You are knowledgeable, Professional, Helpful, Selfless, and above all Honest. You love your job only to help people along with their life. Never stop 'busting out the wobbly' Ray.
I remember working on my first few cars and once you removed the oil pan the oil pump was right there easy to remove. Now, due to these wonderful distributorless engines they have made it much more difficult to do this job. Another way of forcing the average joe to take their cars to the shop. I, am not an average joe. lol
Is there a particular reason why you chose to replace the timing cover?
Amazing work Ray. Not on camera, but you DID properly torque the cam shaft bolt? Love watching your videos
No doubt someone impacted those oil pan bolts on 🤣
hmm by the color of the oil varnish I'd say that motor needs either more frequent oil changes or more regular changes
POS GM, surprise
I've done so many of these stupid things….. 🙄 damn things
the ocd is showing ray lol.. paper for the floormat had to be in the right direction lol..just teasing 😁😁
I've watched you do two oil pan videos now that really make me appreciate the ease of access on my 2002 Town and Country van. Both the oil pan and transmission pan are completely accessible w/out removing anything ahead of time.
When I worked as a truck mechanic there were often those times when an extra arm and hand or two would have been very useful.
Why a new timing cover?
my question is why did the new old gasket not work the way it should? pan bolts way to tight?
I thought Hercules retired long ago 🤔
Why didn't you check the pickup tube o ring
This video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work. WOW very interesting 1st class very kool great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great
Nice to See 👀 👌 👍
Remind me to NEVER get anything with an LS engine…
Those big offset wheels may indicate an impending wheel bearing replacement.
Eight MILLION pound/feet. That’s how I solve all my oil leaks.
Oh yes, I own an old British sports car…
Add a comment…
I must have missed it, when did you torque the cam bolt???
Did we torque the cam gear bolt?
Two questions Ray.
1. Do you ever have customers bring back vehicles due to negative post in reference to the way the work was done?
2. Why did customer want oil pump replaced? Is it a maintenance issue?
I have never seen you answer a question, so I guess I will never know the answers to my questions.
For what's it worth I think your a good Mechanic.i was a mechanic 50 yrs local 701 . big truck, than cars. Started in trade in early 60's
The oil pickup o-ring will harden and start sucking air at higher mileage, doing an oil pump is a good idea
Maybe I missed it, did the guy ever say why he wanted the pump changed? They don't usually go bad
Was the over-torquing of the oil pan a potential reason for the leak? I'd imagine it would really damage the gasket if it was crushed too much
Just wondered today. Do you tell your customers you film their repairs? if they wanna watch 🙂
The more I watch your videos, the more I hate my Chevy Silverado…
How the heck you keep track of all the bolts you remove baffles me! I wish I had access to a mechanic as good as you are where I live.
Did you mention why the new oil pump? And timing chain?
Did I miss it?…. Did you torque the cam sprocket?
Wow those pan bolts should only be torqued to around 18ft lbs maybe even less.
It could have been worse. Imagine all the bolts rounded off. That would not be optimal. Why some guys over torque bolts is beyond me. How many vids have you done involving over torqued bolts lately? Too many.
They put that much money into the engine but the interior is trashed lol
I'm curious why are you replacing the chain and oil pump? Is this a common service on Chevy? I'm used to driving toyotas where you don't have mess with those unless they go
Haynes manual shows Ecotec 4 oil pump down in oil pan, but it's actually in the timing cover/crankshaft driven…
As an old engine builder need to soak timing chain in oil before installing.
I have seen some guys prime the oil pump. Did you or is that necessary?