Surplus electronic parts :
Stock and Crypto AI Prediction :

Hello, everybody good day to you good morning, good afternoon or good evening, whichever one of those applies at this current point in time, we have ourselves a doge ramikus 1500. I believe it is a 2011 model, with nine thousand six hundred and thirty nine miles on the other meter starting the engine, no diagnosing today. No probing, no listening for noises, no ac, we're gon na do something a little bit different. This is gon na be fun.

It's really quite warm in here all right, we're there parking ziato powering down all right so right here we got ourselves a box of goodies yeah. You see where this is going. Don't you come here see we have a horn. We have an air compressor, got a relay a little bit of wiring a fuse, assuming that goes to the battery some more wiring, another relay a switch more wiring stickers, no and some other stuff.

All right brackets for the horn yeah we're going to mount an air horn on that doge right there uh so uh. Here's what i'm thinking the way they want you to do. This is to disconnect your uh your horns and then just plug this relay into your horn circuit and just take your regular horn out of the equation and uh just use this as your new horn. We're gon na do something different, because our doge owner would like to have the option to run their horn or not, and we were going to run another switch inside of the cab to just actuate that switch, but that's boring and uh.

You know when you need a horn, you don't want to fumble around looking for a switch, so what i'm gon na do is we're going to take this switch and another relay and wire it in so that this horn, actuates off of the factory horn button on The steering wheel and it will use the factory horn wiring. What this switch is going to do is activate and deactivate this relay, which is going to give permission for this horn to even become active. So, basically, i'm going to hook this horn up to the truck where the factory horn goes, but i'm going to be able to not use it with a switch, thus enabling the factory horn to always work, and then this horn to work sometimes on the factory horn Button, that's that's the plan. I think i explained it better on the second time around.

So let's get to it first things. First, we need to figure out where to mount this unit, okey dokes, here with our doge, we find it is powered by a 5.7 liter hammy v8, but we're not interested in that okay, so we have plenty of space behind the grill. I think i'd like to mount it here somewhere if i can get away with it. So let's go ahead and pop this grill out of here and then figure out where to set this horn up 10 millimeter.

I think there are just four bolts and some clips that hold all this together. Yeah whoa jumped right out at me very good, all right, so that's the negative can't go. There can't go on any of this. Maybe i can reuse one of these mounts right here.

Hey these holes line up, i can now they don't i'll. Think of it. Turning that using those holes to mount it. Maybe i can do that.

It's kind of clever there's a little cross member right. Here too, i can try to mount the horn to that. Maybe run some uh hose clamps around it and clamp it down it'll fit right here nicely and then i can use this space for the uh pump yeah. Let's do that.

I, like that, all right. Let's see how this is gon na work out now you can see here there's like this uh this raised area in the stamping on this piece, which means, if i were to try to mount this flat. It can rock either way, and we don't want that. We want it to favor this side, so it clears the ac condenser and does not uh grab a hole in it.

So i need to take up some of that space and i'll do that. Just with a random bolt watch this it's totally gon na work. I said i'm gon na secure this with hose clamps. That's good yeah so slide that in like that we're going to move it down so that the bell of the horn clears the edge of this cooler.

I think that's the spot. This might not work out, but it's worth a shot. Ideally, i would like to just run self-tapping screws into something solid to mount this, but i don't have a large enough flat enough surface to do that with so we're doing the hoseplant method. It's gon na work, reload.

Oh it's not sitting flat just because that screw i want to readjust that that displeases me hey perfect time to unveil a new set of nipex cobra pliers adjustable. I need to press that down some a viewer bought me these and i would like to take the opportunity to say thank you. So do you guys call them nipex or kanipex, because i've heard people pronounce the the k and i'm not entirely certain that that's accurate. So maybe we should take a vote on that.

What do you guys think is it nip x with an n or canip x with a k, you tell me well whatever it is, they're very good players? Okay, that's actually solid a lot. Okay, one more clamp on that front. Little front mount up there and this thing will be uh, we'll be good to go, and now you see what i've done here. Oh, that was my arm in the way come on, go in.

Bear with me, fellas bear with me all right got. It started. Try this again, what click? That's good, okay, so i've got the compressor here and the way that it mounts is off of this little guy right here, this little uh tab or whatever notch. This is the discharge pipe which connects to the hose right here.

So i've got to mount this within reach of this hose. Unless i get a longer hose - which i don't have the other thing, that's weird about it, is i've got to pass the bolt through something the way this is supposed to work? Is i take the gravity the bolt goes in like so and then, wherever i'm gon na mount this run that through and then tighten it down with a nut um. I don't have any mounting hardware, really i'd like to mount it here, but i've got to get the nut and i think i can go through here, which means what i'll need to do is drill a hole in this run this through, and i can mount it Right there and that'll give me space enough for the hose and it's a good secluded out of the way area to mount this. I think we can do that.

Let's try that all right, so i'm gon na mount the pump right here and we're gon na drill. A hole here so the stud can come up, so i can put a nut on the stud to actually bolt the pump down. That's uh! That's our plan, so i i am drilling a hole in this doge. You guys know.

I don't like to drill holes in frames, but this one's got plenty of holes in it already. Oh, it's walking, let's make sure, there's no wires. There we're good, excellent, okay, here's how we're going to do this got the pump with the bolt. I have the claw and the washer and then here's my nut loud noise put our washer on release.

I think i can even thread this on a little bit with the claw. Yes, i like this tool. Let's tighten this thing down: flickage sweet, that's good, nice and solid. I like that there is a ground cable.

There is a ground wire here. I think i'll, just uh ground that right over there that'll work. The real question is: is the hose going to reach? Oh, it does close, but it reaches nice click all right, that's good! I accept this looking to mount the relay now now the yellow wire, that's the low wire that is supposed to power the pump, but i don't want to put it down here because i think it'll get water in it and just get ruined. So i think i'd like to put it maybe over here there's another relay.

I need to run. I can fit that right here. I think and then i've got access to the power supply. So let me drill some holes in this and i can bolt this relay in its bracket to this plastic right here.

I can see behind this. There's uh no wires, i'm gon na poke a hole through so now we need to go in with the low profile hole, drilling device. It's actually a carbide bit but it'll work on plastic. It's not a perfect hole, but it will work.

Okay, we've got the tab. That is the amount for the relay, get this thing bolted on and set up first and then we'll click the relay over top of its mount. I've got my washer. Fortunately, there's some space there.

I can fit a tool in there. We go dread come here nut there. Oh that's tighter than i thought. Oopsie there we go.

This will work i'll, just finish it off like this. There you see the mount all right so now the relay can clip onto that mount perfect. Okay. Now we can attach the power wire and the fuse to a 12 volt source, and i choose this one right here.

You can't see: there's one we're gon na use that one we have a fuse in this yep. 30. Amp click. I need to move that.

So the lid closes there: okay good in the remainder of this wire. I'm gon na zip tie this up and make it nice and pretty. Let's just do that right now around the cable and we'll just tie up this bunch and the fuse to the battery cable and everything will be secure. Come on that'll do good nice and tight okay, so we've got to connect the yellow, which is our load wire over here to our load, which is the pump, and i cut a length of wire to do such things.

I put a spade on the end of it and heat shrinked it so that will be uh, nice and weatherproof-ish for a while plug that guy. In so we'll plug this guy in and i'm gon na run this wire with this loom, i'm not gon na put it inside of it, but i'm gon na run it along this loom right here over there to that yellow wire and then i'll make the connection Over there, okay, a couple zip ties later and some uh correct wire routing, and this is in good shape. Okay, now i need to connect my load wire to uh my load wire extension that i made let's chop this guy off, i'm gon na use. One of these uh: it's like an aircraft, crimp solder, type of butt, connector i've never used such things before.

I've had a couple viewers. Send me these to experiment with um. If i do it wrong, i'm sorry, i just don't know. Maybe i'll do better the next one, i'm just i'm not sure how this is gon na work out.

I may have to cut them off and try again. This is the device in question. It's a heat shrink type of deal. It's got a band of solder in the middle and i think those are shrink bands as well, which basically feed your wires in and then heat it.

The solder will melt and contract and then fuse your wires together. That's what i understand. I know they work. I just don't know if i possess the skills to make them work in a desirable fashion, which we shall see.

Let me try something here. I think i'm supposed to kind of fan these out and shove them together. Like this, i may have to use a larger connection: connector yeah, i need a bigger connector. Okay, i will try the medium blue.

Let's do this again, let's go through it, we'll shove our strands together. It's just gon na work. You guys am i doing it right. Yeah, that's it! You need to put a twist on them.

Okay, let's give it some heat. Is it gon na work? I don't see the solder liquefying just yet ooh there. It goes and i died. What do you know that solder is melting? How about that? Oh, these are cool.

I like them, yeah. I see the solder wicking through the exposed wire a little bit more on this side and i think we're good sweet. These are nice, it's my new favorite. They take a while to complete and they're a little painstaking, but it's a nice connector.

Ah, i'm bleeding medic, okay, the last remaining wires for this relay the blue and white. These are going to be the power and the ground which is going to uh, be the actuation circuit for the relay uh. The relay is just basically a big switch and that big switch is going to be controlled by a small switch. That way the smaller switch.

Does not have to be carried by the current, and in this case it's going to be the horn switch, so we're going to ground one side and we're going to hot the other side. That's going to close the switch inside of the relay and then that's going to take the power from the relay's power supply, send it over to the load line and then actuate. Whatever load, we've decided to use whether it be horns or lights or air compressors or whatever. The purpose of this is for ease of installation, and so you don't have to have your switch capable of carrying all the current that uh your load may carry uh.

For example, if you had a light bar, that thing may run 20 25 amps of current continuously. Well, that switch may only be able to handle 10 amps continuously, so we use a relay that carries the load. I think i'm going to do the same thing here that i did with the ground wire that goes to the pump and i'm just going to go ahead and ground this to the nearest possible ground, which is actually uh. There's a body ground right there.

Can you see yep right there, so i'll just extend this wire out and then bolt it into this body ground and that will facilitate the ground function of the relay. So i i really don't feel like getting fancy, so i'm just going to use red wire for that ground circuit. Also. I've got a whole bunch of red wire and not much other color wire.

So i'm just going to do all this in red wire. Some of you will not approve some of you. Don't care we play with the toys. The gods give us little steam, it's working, oh, i just saw the solder flow there.

It goes. This is awesome. So, okay, we're gon na shove. The heat shrink on there before it's too late, i'm mostly doing that for aesthetic purposes.

I just think it looks better and overkill totally moisture protection overkill. So this wire we're just going to tuck it in very nicely, with the existing harness and i'll come up from behind this plastic thing right here and we'll mount it right at that screw. So we're gon na cut right here, lumens all right! Let us make our our terminal or terminate the end of this wire. Rather so we can ground the relay.

You'll see what i'm doing with all the heat shrink in a second just like that perfect get on there. That's it see what i've done very clean. Look. I really like the overlay with one piece of heat shrink meets another one.

Very good. Okay question is: do i want to go in front or behind? I think i'll go in front. That way, i don't add something in between the factory wiring and the aftermarket wiring. Let's run this behind the bracket that way we have a clean, look, fresh and clean.

You know i could stack that like that, behind it all the way i really undecided. I think it fits better like that yeah i'm gon na. Do it like that? No, no! I'm not no, i'm not because this eyelet in the back is smaller than the big one. I don't want to do that.

It's ugly, okay, that's good, clean install. I think we're done under here. We don't need this box. Okay.

Now, for the moment, you've all been waiting for i'm going to run the actuation wire um, i'm not going to have time to get to the switch in the dash. I wanted to put a kill switch in this in line with the uh, the factory horn with another relay. I don't have time to do that today, so i can probably uh i'll do that, maybe tomorrow or at a later date. But what i am going to do right now is just go ahead and run this actuation wire to the blue circuit, and i'm going to run this back over here to the factory horns and i'm going to tap into the power at the factory launch.

So the factory horn button for the factory horn, actually, the connector, will serve as the power source to actuate this relay, which will then drop power from the battery over to the motor, which will then pump the air to make the horn go burn. That's the plan! So one more time, one more wire we'll get this guy uh crimped on and heat trunk and then i'll run the actuation wire back over the grill. Actually i changed my mind: i'm not going to use a uh one of the good print connections on this. For the solder connectors - because this is just going to be a temporary circuit, so i'm just going to use the uh the generic style blueprint.

This won't be here for long. So i don't want to uh use my good stuff on a temporary splice car is not staying tonight and i'm not gon na stay for another hour or so can't do that. But it comes back to the shop every day. So i have plenty of opportunity to uh fix it up later right now.

I think we're good pull some extra out. That's enough to reach we'll cut that off, come here and i'll. Just follow that other red wire that i ran, doo, doo, doo and we'll leave some slack good. Okay, here's the wire we just made - and i'm just probably going to use this connector right here - come here to tap into it.

So again, this is uh just temporary! Don't get mad at me, but i've got a kind of a special case, wire connector right here i used to install the breathalyzer machines for the court system and uh. The machines had to be tapped into the main wiring harness to the ignition, and these are the connectors that they gave us, but there was always a couple extras, so i saved them, so that's it and then, on the other side of it, we've just got a Little uh little needle that's going to pierce the wire, and then this will clamp down on the other side of it and it'll make a circuit connection. Now, assuming that black is ground - and this blue is the power wire - let's just go ahead and do that right now and yeah - i can reseal this later. It's just a temporary little pokemon.

Okay, i believe that connection is made. Let's just plug this horn back in i'll zip tie these up and out of the way temporarily, let's see here sorry, i was talking with a zip tie in my mouth: bad manners. Okay, let's go hit the button and see what it does. You guys stay right here and listen.

Okay, it works. We'll fill the grill back on it's in the day, i'm getting out of here guys. As always. I hope you enjoyed this video if you did enjoy this video.

You know the drill. Let me know about that. Effectively by tap that like button down below, if you did not enjoy this video, let me know about that too. So again, as always, thank you for watching and, most importantly, don't forget to have yourself a great day get in.

There click two clicks here we go see you guys later all done see you later doge.

96 thoughts on “Dodge really blows! ram 1500 4×4 5.7 hemi”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lester Burtard says:

    Sry, there is an(?) UL Listed connection available.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RJM says:

    Awesome. I've been looking at locomotive horns for my burb.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hot Wheelz says:

    Hi Ray, it is indeed pronounced knipex with a K. The company even produced a t-shirt at one point in time to further help illustrate that point.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars GARY OSBORNE says:

    Looks like the air hose is kinked a little right at the horn. Will restricting the air flow also restrict the volume of the horn? Hmmmmmmm…….

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars asterix2419711 says:

    Knipex with a K. Greetings from Germany

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jon Bottoms says:

    Those are some sexy looking crimpers. What brand are those?

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tim Kirkpatrick says:

    You forgot a spot of RTV for anti vibration action!

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars DoYouFeelLucky? says:

    Pronounce the “K” like the maker does.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Russ' Rockin O-RR says:


  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Asp says:

    the dude with the cutoff wheel…

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ShadeTree says:

    Sorry, got to call you out. You should never coil excess wire like that, especially on the power side. If you have something chafe through on the power side of that fuse it only adds to the toxic cloud of magic smoke.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Carl Bergstrom says:

    Nice wire splices – enough twist for mechanical connection and well soldered and insulated.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrEditor says:

    The Dodge RAM 1500 becomes the Doge RAM 1500, and
    you can buy it with Doge Coin 🙂

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hydro 5606 says:

    That there truck is not a dodge btw…

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bill Link says:

    I was hoping you were going to flip the 60 Amp fuse in the box so the universe would be okay.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dain Smart says:

    God those air tools in the background man they would really wind me up what the hell was he doing 😡 sod it I'm going fishing.♥️👍🏻✌🏻😁🇬🇧💂‍♀️.

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rick Wulfe says:

    Those h/s solder connects Re really easy but usually ugly. My you ]ulled a bone head move using red wire for a round. You cheated out and maybe confuse the next guy . It was free to you and he's paying for it. You're a pro.. not kool.

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Faraday says:


  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Ruffalo says:

    I need advice from Mechanics! I need to know how to approach a situation that doesn't seem to resolve itself. Let me begin with informing you that I have the patients of Job. But even I have my limits. I have a classic 1977 Lincoln that is sentimental to me. I took it to a mechanic in my area for a couple odds and ends. I dropped the car off on September 9th, 2021 and it's still at the shop. That's 293 days or almost 10 months. I'm not sure how much of this time is work and parts or the mechanic dragging his feet and treating it like a weekend project when things are slow at the shop. Basically, I'm looking for a little bit of inside baseball. Am I the crazy one? Have you ever had a customer's car for nearly a year? Does this sound about right or is there something else going on here? To inform your response, here is list of things that I've had done thus far perhaps to warrant the 10 month wait: The first was a "slave cylinder" or power steering assist cylinder. This part needed to be rebuilt because it was difficult to find. That took about 3 weeks for a specialist to repair and send back to the shop. I had two minor leaks repaired from the drive shaft. I had new rubber brake lines installed, two new calipers, and front and rear brakes and discs. The thing that seemed to take the longest to get was the "hydro boost." He told me the one in the car was leaking and loosing pressure in December and if memory serves me, it was finally was done around April. The mechanic told me that the first hydro boost sent was wrong, the second part was defective, and the third one finally worked. Last of all, I'll probably need an alternator because when I put a load on it, the voltage drops to 10 amps to the battery. In my last chat with him two weeks ago, he said it may be the alternator or the voltage regulator. It seems, to a layman like myself, a lot of work has been done, but it also seems like 10 months would be enough time to perform a complete off the frame restoration. I know that parts for an older car can be hard to come by, but then again, it isn't a 34 Duesenberg. Should I continue to be patient with the process? Should I try to light a fire under him? I've reached out to him about every 6 weeks to 2 months, but it just seems to go on and on. Any advice would be welcome. I haven't paid him yet, which you think would be an incentive to finish quickly, but nothing seems to make my car a priority.

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matthew Martin says:

    I have a friend from Germany. He says that the proper way to say is with a hard K and a hard I after the N. So kuh-ni-pix. Which actually does sound very German. but he also could just be pulling my leg. I dunno. Before I met him I always said nipix.

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Twoedged Sword says:

    Knipex is pronounced (Kah nip x) according to the company itself.

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! Arothgar says:

    in my mind its like Knife. you dont say kn-ife, you say nife. or like Knight.

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars xshanghu says:

    Great content.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gilgamesh says:

    Little tip, try using a heat gun with a "J" deflector to evenly melt the solder ring without having to move the heat gun or wire around thus reducing the chances of melting stuff around the connection.

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars D B says:

    What the hell what that guy grinding?

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BigOvaper says:


  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Leo R. says:

    If u put a lighter to the solder part it melts it faster then heat the rest. I use these on rc cars lol

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars OldKatz says:

    its the fucking red plyers when i need to tell someone to grab them for me

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars harry walker says:

    im confused, but also undicided,& indifferent,about everything……….i think.

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Artiken says:

    Ray, While doing wood working I cut myself on occasion. I used to use vinyl tape. It snags on stuff. I found it cut off the circulation to the digit. Sweat makes it fall off. I found that Cyanoacrylate glue does a much better job. Different brands stick better to skin/blood than others. Doctors use it, medical grade = more expensive. Not enough Cyanide to be dangerous, according to the doctors I asked. CrazyGlue good, Locktight good, Gorrilla meh. CA was invented to save soldiers lives in Vietnam. Dissolves with Acetone. resistant to IPA, Lacquer thinner. Not sure about brake cleaner. ;~p

    Dab the blood away, put a drop on the wound, quick wipe with towel, finger wipe is better. Seals the wound, leaves a protective coating, falls off after wound healed. The grease/oil on the skin will stick to the glue, no tattoo potential.

    There is stuff called "new skin" that bowler's use when the skin is rubbed raw. Takes to long.

    speaking about long. I am sorry that my message was so wordy. I tried to touch on the just the highlights.

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars harry walker says:

    raaaaaaaaaaaayyy,,dont zip tie the cable, it creates a coil,,like a kettle/toaster,,the rumcharger will burn.[ can i have the engine.?].

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim Bowesman says:

    something tells me this is going to be lame. i guess i'll hide and watch. was it any louder than the factory horn? i liked my Hadley horns on my tool wagon.

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars harry walker says:

    it it shuger, kemist.elefant, nob, nife, porsh, shalot, where, were, i love the english dribble..look up antidisestablishmentarianism..henry 8th,against the smart..ausie..

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William Dawson says:

    I'm glad to see it takes you as long as me to connect wires.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Tilton says:

    IT guy pro Tip. Temp installations use VELCRO. I've seen too many nicked wires in my life from idiots trying to cut zip ties. May not apply to engine bays, I dunno. Just saves me headaches. Hopefully that helps someone. Yes, zip ties are quicker cheaper in a lot of cases. YMMV

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars HouseCallAutoRepair says:

    Nice "Heart Attack" horn!

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robbie Sharrock says:

    Sounds like a 🚂

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Walter Butscher says:

    Thats not like you using one color for everything. Those connectors work great. Overall nice job unfortunately those compressors suck. Curious follow up. What happened to that older BMW window regulator. Did the owner opt for one from the dealership or not. That job was a bear. Have a great day

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sting says:

    Somebody loves a wiz wheel , Jesus.

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bob Parsons says:

    Knipex is a German company so the K is silent as in Knife and knee

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Paul Daley says:

    I usually use a magnet to remove any drill shavings from the area to prevent rust from starting.