Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! This is a 2008 GMC Sierra it's 2500 HD it's got the 66 Duramax I Believe this is the Lmm version. uh single rear wheel, not a duy. Let's go ahead and get started on this unit. I uh I Made a uh a Diag video on this truck and I posted it over on the second.

Channel Channel That's the backup Channel It was more of a walk through and we checked out all of the concerns on the vehicle. Uh, we're going to go ahead and get started and repair some of these concerns. Uh, real quick though. Before we start this, listen to the engine as it wants to start up.

Did you guys hear that? It sounded like it was struggling a little bit to to come alive and look it right here. Our charging system seems to be slightly underperforming. I Think those batteries are low? Uh, or they're uh, they're just bad batteries. Either the alternator is not working and it has, uh, deteriorated batteries.

or it just has really bad batteries and the alternator's trying to get them charged up. but they're just drawn down. So bad that, uh, we can't seem to come up to 14 volts. Here we go.

Now, we're coming up. so we also might have a charging system problem with this and we could possibly, uh, have a battery issue with this. Yeah, there we go. Now we're up to 14 change on the voltage.

So anyway, uh, like I was saying, uh I did preliminarily make like a diagnostic walkthrough video on this truck cuz there is a Litany of concerns with this particular vehicle. uh, I will leave a link to uh, that Diag video down in this video's description I will also put that link in the pinned comment that's the one at the very top and I'll put a link to it like right up here in the upper rightand corner if you want to go back in time and uh, and take a look at that uh, that other video. But anyway, we're going to go ahead and get started started on this. Uh, there's a massive exhaust leak on this thing.

and rather than spending boatloads of time and risk and money to replace, uh, the leaking exhaust components, uh, I'm going to bust out the welder and uh, we're going to try to weld up the holes that I found in this manifold. Uh, it appears that somebody Once Upon a Time Has drilled a hole in the passenger side exhaust manifold ping down and with that hole, they either had a uh like a thermal couple in there or some kind of a probe for temperature readings or uh, they drilled the hole for some other reason unknown to me and they put a plug in it. Either way, that plug has come out. There's a giant gaping hole in the manifold.

So rather than uh, going down the rabbit hole of risk trying to replace that manifold, I'm going to bust out the welder. We're going to try to weld that hole up and then I can recheck for other exhaust leaks as well. However, as we do that, and before we do that, I'm going to go ahead, break out the battery charger and charge up these batteries. Uh, once these two batteries are charged, probably after I'm done with the Weld work.

Uh, I can get out of test or disconnect these individual batteries, test them individually to see if one or both of them is bad, and then at that point, we can conduct a charging system test to see if this alternator is going to uh, going to work out long term or not. I mean it's it's not looking that great and we may need to replace that Nator. but we're going to have to cross that bridge when we get to it. So let me go ahead and grab the Uh battery charger.

We'll go ahead and get these things. uh, back up to uh, well, to a charge level that I can test at and then we'll go from there. and in the meantime, like I said, while that's charging, we'll weld up that exhaust manifold leak. which is, let me take you around over here.

I Already found it earlier. Begin: Illuminating Now yeah, we can see right there. there's a perfect little hole right there in the side of that manifold. You see that hole right there.

That's that's not good. That means means that the turbocharger is not receiving exhaust gas pressure like it should be, so it's going to be underperforming with its boost readings. uh, if? Consequently, that's probably going to make it smoke and it's going to have a power loss situation going on here so we can see all of these holes. Or these bolts here are very corroded and Rusty and my fear is is we're going to break these studs off in the head and I'll have to end up welding onto this thing anyway to try and extract those broken studs.

So rather than going through all of that uh, that risk and Agony and suffering, I'm just going to weld that hole up real quick. and uh, then, like I said, we'll go back and recheck and test for uh, additional leaks at that point in time. Yeah, it's funny cuz folks were saying that I don't do much uh or any work on diesels. And there's a diesel.

There's a diesel. There's a diesel right over there. Next to that, there's a diesel. There's actually more diesel vehicles in the parking lot than there are, uh, gasoline power diesels in the parking lot.

which I find that to be ironic considering that some did not think that I worked on uh, on diesels. Now there are some that I don't work on like Mercedes But for the most part, if it's domestic, I'll work on it and if I can't work on it, we can schedule it for a A-Rod with power stroke Tech talk with A-Rod he's from Michigan but he comes down here every couple, uh, not every six weeks or so to schedule in some 67 Ford turbo diesel work. So we're going to charge this. We'll do 50 amps.

all of it. Yep, so we're charging right now. Power's going in now. These batteries, in theory should charge equally because they are connected as one battery.

uh, not two batteries. So we're charging both of them as we speak. and again, while that's happening, we're going to bust out the welder, weld up that hole and then we're going to go from there. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video uping.

Z Hood Look who that guy is. r r I see that coolant leak's not getting any better. Look at that. Yeah, we're also going to have to pull this apart to change that hose.

Uh, like I said earlier in the other video I Want to drain this cooling system out, disconnect that fitting on this, uh, coolant hose right here, and just make sure that the radiator hasn't suffered any damage. It's probably just in the hose right there. There's a there's some seals inside of that little uh uh, that connector unit. but again, that's another.

Bridge We're going to cross here in a moment. All right. So word to the Internet I am breaking rule number one and that rule is Do Not weld on the Internet because it just really opens the door for a whole lot of reaction. And and I'm aware of that.

but I I Kind of don't care. So I am going to go ahead and weld this and you guys are going to hang out and watch. That being said, I am no professional welder. This is not my skill set.

I can muddle my way through it and I can accomplish the goals that are necessary. Uh, nothing that I'm going to weld is structural. Take that off right now. Nothing that I Weld is structural and there is a minimal negative consequences.

Uh, to my welding. Behavior Uh as I post that on the internet, but that does not mean I'm not aware of the risks of this operation. One thing to note: this pipe. right here.

That's the up pipe that goes straight into the turbine on the uh, the turbocharger. If I were to get debris or metal or pieces of the wire from the welder inside of this manifold and then we run this engine, there is a chance that those, well, there's a certainty that those pieces will make their way up to that turbo charger and it probably won't happen at low speed because the exhaust gas flow will have to pick that stuff up and then send that into the turbine. If that turbine is up to speed, you know we're talking 80 to 100,000 RPM Potentially if anything hits that turbine or the compressor on the other side for that matter, uh, it will damage those turbine and or compressor blades. So I have to take care to not strike welds on the back side of this hole.

So I'm going to weld on the front side of it and kind of pull it up and then sort of make a perhaps I'll describe it as like a dome uh or or some s of sh form of shape. I'm not really sure how it's going to go, but point being is I'm going to take care to not get debris inside of this hole so it's to not destroy the turbocharger. Okay so first I'm going to make an attempt to clean off the surface where I'm planning on welding here because there is a bunch of dirt built up on that and Welding on dirt does not always work so we're just going to hit this a little polishing wheel here. Try to get away some of that nastiness.

There we go now as I'm sure you've gathered there will be small pieces of debris that are going to end up in there that stuff will blow through while the turbo is at low speed, so it's not going to be horribly critical if those little pieces of whatever dust makes its way inside of that hole. However, again, we want to avoid having the big chunks of stuff end up inside of that hole. Okie Does masks on safety first? Do not become Blinded by the Light do r r my tip is stuck I got the tip stuck I think I was a little too close to the uh the wire right there. so I'll take some side cuts here and just give it a tug.

There we go snip it off. Going back in hole is getting smaller. almost sealed up. Look at that.

that's good. haha got it, that's good. Okay I think we're in good shape here. It should not be leaking.

Uh I know we're charging the batteries, but let's head back inside. I'm going to fire this thing up again and uh, I'll give it the fely field test to make sure that there's no pin hole in the center. That weld you'll be able to feel the leak cuz it'll be wisping out everywhere. And yes, we are charging.

So let's just crank up the power just a little bit here. and yeah I know I didn't disconnect batteries. it's fine. beginning engine restocking sequence now.

turn back down. Nada Okay I don't feel any other reach around this area. It should be good to go. There's no leaks here I feel nothing I don't hear anything good.

Let's go back and shut her down again. Okay, so since we're working in that corner so far, I'm going to go ahead and get this coolant line disconnected, we need to inspect the seal inside of that hose and inspect the uh, the nozzle here on this radiator to see uh, what exactly is causing this leak. So let me go fetch another bucket. This could get a little messy I'm not sure how much cooling's left.

It had a low coolant warning on when we hopped in the vehicle. so I don't believe there's much left inside of that overflow tank. Okay, thr that down there and we're going to need a pick to remove the clip that is on that uh, that coolant line right there. Okay, so you'll have to excuse this AC line that's kind of obstructing our viewing pleasure I Can't do much about that, but this, uh, this radiator hose here has this little metal clip that secures the hose to the radiator.

Now, we can't lose that you can't replace it. What I need to do is pull this thing back and away from the uh, the radiator. Probably easier said than done here. Hang on.

Lay on the ground I Can probably get some better force on it if I lay down here which is also not cool cuz I might, uh, take the coolant money shot to the face. Yep, it's raining cooling. Yeah, let's let this drain out once that's disconnected. I'll be able to, uh, take a look at the seal inside and we'll see what we need to do about rectifying this here situation.

Okay, I think we have enough drained out of our drain right here. Try to pull this back a little bit further. No out. here's what we're going to do.

Come on there we go. That's what I want to see I want to get to the seal the O-ring seal inside of this hose. So look inside of this hose a little bit. see that orange o-ring right there? that is the seal that hangs onto all of our coolant.

Let me dig that guy out. Okay, so this is why we're leaking. Look at here there some AR R TV sealant or something on it. Someone's tried to repair this.

This o-ring is pretty flattened out from what I can tell I don't see any damage inside of there inside of that hose and up here on the radiator. I don't see any cracks or damage in this little uh little Outlet nozzle right here. Yeah, there's no cracks in that. I'm wondering if I can just replace this uh, this guy right here and uh and save four something hours worth of Labor Let me go look up uh, my parts catalog and see if I can't get a hold of one of these O-rings This might uh, might just be our only issue here.

It's worth uh testing to find out. Okay, so I have ordered what could be the appropriate replacement o-ring uh for that hose over there and what I said I said could be because there was a note on it that said updated Hose only Um, I'm not sure if that one's going to fit, but it's at least worth a try before we go into the 4-Hour job of pulling that hose apart. Anyway, while that's happening, I'm going to go ahead and disconnect these batteries and we're going to test them with a couple testing methods. First, I'm going to check voltage, then we're going to run a digital test on them, and then I'm going to actually put a load on each individual battery to see how it holds up under an amperage draw.

So let's go ahead and get started. Uh, right now. Okay, multimeter coming in. We're going to set this up for DC voltage and we're just going to check the uh, static voltage of both batteries connected at one time and we're at Uh 13.56 volts.

That's uh, it's kind of up there. so we do have decent voltage at this point in time. So I'm going to go ahead and disconnect one of these batteries. You can't test two batteries at the same time.

You want to separate them and test them individually individually. Words: Okay, so that guy's disconnected. Uh, this is a hot lead, so we're just going to be very careful to not short that to ground. All right.

So now that that's disconnected, let's check static voltage of this battery uh 13.01 volts and static voltage of the other battery 13.2 So this one's sitting a little lower. see that 13 132 Now this is freshly off a charge. So I Do expect that, uh, surface charge to dissipate slightly. But let's move on with our testing protocol here.

Next up, we'll do the digital test on this thing. connector here connector here. and this thing is a 760 amp cold or 760 cold cranking amp rated battery. So we got a battery coal cranking amps 760 bad Battery: Look at that.

297 CCA is what it's rated at, um, this particular tester. So let's go ahead and grab the other tester and just see how it handles the Lo Stick this guy right here. a little bit more of a Contraption. This is the old school way of testing batteries.

Just throw a bunch of load onto it and the smoke out of the tester and see what it does. Connect that to our negatory, connect you to positive and again, let's move in a little closer. Voltage is around 13. There's no load on it, so we're going to crank this up.

This is A. This tester just has a very large resistive element inside of it. Kind of like a, uh, kind of like what's inside of a toaster. So pretty much we have a handheld dial in toaster right here.

but you can't put toast in it or bread. Okay, so we're cranking up. We're pulling 100 amps of power, just dropping down. Turn that up to 200 amps.

Yeah, we're dropping down. Voltage went low. The alarm is off 200 amps. We're down to 10 1 12 volts.

And there's the smoke we're letting out. See that we're letting some out on the battery too. Not okay. Yeah, we're done here.

That smoke is just dirt and nasty stuff that's cooking off of the resistive element inside of the tester. So as per the voltage check, this battery is supposed to be good. But according to the digital tester and the old school tester, this battery is no good. So that one's junk.

A lot of heat coming out of this thing too. That one's junk. Let's go over here and test the other battery. Now, we've already checked voltage on it, so we're going to hook up the digital meter here, see how that one comes out, and then, uh, we'll hook up the load tester as well.

There you go there. This one's a little tougher because the negative post is way out back underneath of this business right here. Connect you to that bolt and then there. That's good again.

13 volts Battery: 760 Airor Okay, bad connection, Bad Connection on the ground side. Let's go in through here. 760 This one came out 707. Let me try this on a different testing protocol.

Restart: cuz I I Had it selected for gel. Uh, these are actually AGM Batteries They're not. uh, lead acid. It's a form of lead acid.

It's a flat spiral. I Don't know which one is the correct one here. Bad connections. You hear the snap.

it's making bad connection at that one. There's corrosion. Try it again. Sealed Lead Acid SL1 that's that's going to be the one.

766 Okay, so since I did have this set on gel, let's go one more time on the other battery for sealed Lead acid. Just just to be thorough because I know folks will not like that discrepancy. Look at there voltage fell due to my load Le Acid 760 692 Look at that. That one is now passing disconnect Restart 692 So let's just verify those incorrect results that I uh had just caused through my oversight.

Let's go back to Gel, see if it passes on a gel battery. Weird. Okay So they're passing. they are passing the load test version.

Didn't really care for it. Let's go try it again. the load tester on this battery. So we're going to turn down our load I Almost condemn some batteries due to a testing error.

That's why I like to test these multiple times. It's good to do that. 13 volts. Let's fire it up.

My load's not coming in. Oh there we go. Okay, at 100 amps, we're okay. 200 amps.

we're starting to fall. 300 amp voltage is dropping. I'm going to leave these batteries alone. I Think these are going to be okay and our Smoke's coming out again too.

So now what I wish to do is go ahead and connect both batteries again, tighten this guy up and I'm going to connect the meter to the system when I figure out what to do with that hose and we're going to check that alternator for its output. So since we're going to do that, I'm going to get another meter out and we're going to check actual amperage output from that alternator. There it is. We have a Snap-On meter here with a Uh, an amp clamp.

So we're going to connect this clamp to the output circuit on that alternator and then we'll also connect the Uh Voltmeter so we can watch amperage and voltage at the same time. Okay, so over here on the Nater, you see what I see that's a very corroded connection on that output terminal I Don't particularly care for that. There could be a lot of resistance right here in this wire. but uh, we're going to test her up anyway.

So let's turn. think we need to have this on the milliamp scale and I Realize we're not testing for milliamps, but we will connect this uh and utilize the milliamp scale because this amp clamp will convert uh, its Amp reading and then send it to the Uh the meter on the milliamp scale. I Think that's DC ampers It's been a while since I used this voltage Hertz Comm line. Yeah, we'll We'll start it off on the amp scale It's DC amps.

We'll go with that one. Let's power this unit up up to 400 amps. There's a 400 amp and a 40 amp. and I think if we turn the calibration dial, that'll let me know what scale to use because it'll change the read out on this meter.

so we're on the wrong scale. Let's try this one. Nope. Nope.

Molt. That's the one mill volt scale. Here we go. So now I'll calibrate this down to zero -33 -4 see I'm turning the little knob and we're going to calibrate down to zero.

Yeah, last time I used this folks were uh, unhappy that I had this on the Molt scale. but that's the way this configuration works with a Uh with a digital multimeter. We don't have to be exact on it cuz it's a very sensitive dial, but we want to get it within a tenth or two coming down. Coming down, it's about as good as it's going to get right about here.

too far. All righty. So I got this dialed down to about a tenth of an amp. As sensitive as as this is, that's as close as we're going to get.

So now what I'm going to do is Hook the probe up. It's going to measure how much power and amperage is going through this. uh, this particular wire. So this is only going to measure alternator output.

Uh, Lauren is going to hop in the cab in a moment and start the engine I have temporarily plugged in that uh, what? you call it that radiator hose down there that way in case there is more coolant hanging out. it's not going to. It's not going to pump out with the water pump. So we've got voltage and amperage.

Lauren Would you be a deer and go inside and restart this engine? I may have that clamp backwards. We'll just have to flip it around if that's the case. Yeah. Go ahead and fire it up this alternator.

it's making 97 amps. Let's check the Probe on one of the batteries. That battery is taking in 18 amps. still 80 90 amps.

Throw the other battery. Oh well, that's kind of odd. Oh, there we go. That other battery is taken in 33 amp.

Lauren Will you do me a favor? reach in and pull the high beams I Want to see if our power output increases with more load? Okay, shut it off. Yep, shut the engine down. Okay, well, this appears to be all operating as designed, but those batteries were actually down pretty far. So I'm thinking that either this thing does a lot of short trips and the Nater doesn't have time to get these batteries up to par.

Uh, it could be a weak nator. It's kind of a tough call. Everything's testing out. Okay, let me think about this for a minute.

So I've got an idea here. I'm actually going to upgrade this I'm going to repair that corroded looking connection sort of and find a better way to test this. uh, all at the same time. So I've got this, uh, this little length of wire right here.

What I'm going to do is I'm going to create another wire. It's going to go from this alternator over here to this battery terminal right there. So I'm going to make a a new jumper and connect all that good stuff and what that's going to be able to let me do is test this wire for current draw. If I find a bunch of current coming through this wire and not so much through that wire that one over there, then I will know for certain that the corrosion and resistance in this wire is preventing these batteries from coming all the way up.

Uh, it's also a cheaper alternative than uh, replacing that wiring harness. So I need to build the other half of this real fast. Let me strip this back. You're doing it wrong.

That's not how you're supposed to do that I know. but I can. uh I got the feeling I can feel it I'm not cutting through uh, all these strands inside of here. So what I'm going to do is stick a ruin that I'm going to stick another end on this and crimp it down, heat, shrink it, and then make one more extra connection for this alternator to supply current to the uh.

the batteries. stick that guy on there like so I know this is gravity I Know this is kind of Overkill just for testing, but it's also going to be a repair sort of uh and an improvement. So what? I'll do. Got this hydraulic crimping tool here for battery terminals? Let's tighten that guy down.

just give it some squeezes. I'll put the crimp in this uh terminal lug over here and then we'll make a new connection. It's easy to do that because there's already studs and space to do it with and we're also going to uh, pull apart all these connections here and uh and clean them up cuz we could just have a lot of resistance due to the corrosion. cable.

Click there we go. Take that guy loose. Bring that thing side. Okay, that's good.

Put some heat shrink over it so it's nice and pretty. Let's fire up the torch here. Begin shrinking. Now see how we keep moving with the flame so we don't burn the heat shrink.

That's all you need I'm still waiting on that O-ring to show up for that uh, radiator hose. It's either going to fit or it's not okay. That should be good. So what? I will do.

We're going to routee this probably right on top of this uh, this cool nut hose here and we can zip tie the thing on. so I'll leave. Got to do this carefully because these are technically live wires. All of them are live.

What I'll do is run this one over here. That's the route that I choose and we can connect it. Yeah, right about there. So what I need to find is a nut and a washer to connect to this post right over here.

Oh oh, you can't even see? Yep. So I'm running the hose over. We'll zip tight it onto this upper radiator hose and then we'll bolt it down right here onto this terminal. That is the positive side spare leftover nut.

Let's see if that's going to thread on and it does. That's very nice. Cck. Okay, now over here, on the left side.

stay. that's live. I'll take the the nut off of the alternator. come on off of there.

don't break there we go. and then we can put that ter end right here on this output Shaft or output terminal. Let's see how I want to do this. What? I'm thinking we run this behind this wire here and kind of loop it around.

That should be good. Yeah, yeah, Just like that, we'll do this so effectively. We've just created another wire to send power to the batteries. Kick! Okay, that's good now.

I'll just need to secure this wire to the rest of these harnesses with some zip ties. you know? I Don't like that I Don't like the bend that we have here. It's not okay with me. Let's undo this and try again.

I Love my job! So I do it twice. Yes. I would rather just have that come straight through I Think things could rub in the future and then, uh, break the insulation and then short that to ground so we'll do it this way. It's a cleaner look as well.

that's better. Okay, okay, so I've got some zip ties on there, darling. come back, come back and see us. You have to make your cameo for the day.

Hey Hi! I did start the truck I know, would you? would you mind running in there and starting it again? So we've got the the meters back on. Let me get this close to zero. Three, four, Whatever. you go ahead and start it whenever there we go.

So that's connected to the alterator, effectively offering an alternative route for the electricity to not have to use this wires that does not look very good. So let's plant this one pulling uh, 36 amp through this new wire. Now let's check the Old Wire woohoo and see what kind of amps we ping through that old unit. 30 40 amps? Yeah, I'm about bad.

So the Alator effectively you can go ah and shut it down. Thank you! So effective Ly The alternator couldn't get all of its output to these two batteries to maintain their charge because of high resistance and due to the corrosion inside of that wire right there that that's no good. Uh, Naturally, the actual repair is going to be to replace the uh, uh, the starter and battery wire cable assembly. Uh, it's a pretty big conglomeration uh of components because this wire should be running down to the starter and then from the starter.

It just tees off and then runs up here to this battery. At that point, it goes over there to the glow plug control module and somewhere along those connections, it's also running all the way over and then making its other connection Here at Uh at this other battery. Uh, that's not exactly the way that the routing goes, but with the addition of this other wire right here, we have proved out that there is a resistance issue. Uh, another point of resistance here that we're going to encounter is all the corrosion on these connectors.

So let's go ahead and actually start disassembling some things here. I'm going to clean up all those connections as well and uh, get everything back to tip toop operating condition. That way the components can do their job. For starters, we need to get this bracket business out of the way.

It's a 13 mm. Loud noises, Moderately loud noises that set this thing off to the side. Now we have access to the terminals. These ones aren't too horrible.

My bolt? These aren't too bad, but those ones on that side are are definitely not any good. Um, I'm still going to disconnect everything now cuz we're going in with some extra tools and some spray and some wire brushes. So I want to make sure that we have no electrical contact because I really don't want to short something out here o something else I Just noticed this battery and that battery are different makes and models. This is an interstate and that looks like a uh, like a Super Start From O'reilly or something.

So we've had one battery fail at some point and then somebody just replaced one. Uh, that's also kind of a nogo. You really don't want to do that cuz effectively, you're adding a new battery to one that's well, not new and that can also cause the not newest one to take down the other battery. In short: I like to replace dual system batteries as a pair.

Now you'll never, uh, get that result under a warranty condition. Dealerships won't do that, but it really is the best practice. So here let's pull this connector off. Oh that's on there.

pretty good. The top of this terminal is kind of mushroomed out from look like jump starters or people finagling with it. People like myself. Pry bar need pry bar? We'll go with a trim tool pry bar there.

It just needed some encouragement and it come. went right back on. Yeah yeah, look at all that bunch of corrosion inside of that. Terminal A Bunch of corrosion right here on the terminal.

Yeah, none of that makes for a good connection. and we need a good connection. Check it out. Little wire brush thing.

four battery terminals. They'll go on your drill now. You got to do the slow speed I I Learned once to not let it impact I may not be able to use this drill. broken many of these things by impacting them.

Yeah, that'll do. Let's get that next one. nice and shiny. Good.

Let's get this other one over here. Also nice and shiny. and I need my ratchet for one more connector? You head it out there, darling. Yeah, okay, you know it's not nice and shiny.

What's not nice and and shiny? Your van? your van. Yeah! I Need to wash it. Oh, go clean it. we can get J to do it.

You want to detail some cars. Wax on Wax off wax on wax off Good sir. Yeah, uh, it's that part. It's that part of the job description where I said and whatever else I want.

Hey wait, this wasn't part of the Home Depot AG uh uh. I give cash tips I mean yeah and this isn't Home Depot So there they're A major conglomeration. start out so we're not done yet. We need to clean out the inside diameters of uh of the connections and I'll just do that manually cuz I don't have an automatic brush that will uh, that will go in there and clean those up so we'll run this little wire brush through there, make those nice and shiny, and then we can get everything reconnected and that's going to ensure that the batteries can accept the charge that the alternator is giving them.

There we go, knock the dust out of it. So put that guy on. uh I'll leave the positive off for now and we'll go over here to our negatives or to the other battery. Rather, this, there is a positive over here.

stick that guy in, work it around. It's good and this one's the really nasty one. much more better. Okay, so both negatives are on this battery and that battery I Can see here I Can see the positive one over there so that's not grounding out.

So let's get this positive cable attached. Come back over here and then get this positive cable attached. You hear those sparking actions, the arcing sparking. Let's go ahead and get some torque on these guys.

or some tightness. Rather, there we go. Next, you see why I chose the plastic one. If I were to ground that out, somehow, it's not going to.

Arc The two batteries back together a minimal safety precaution, but it's there nonetheless. Plus, it matches my gloves. Okay, that guy is tight as well now. I'm going to get some uh corrosion dissolving, uh chemical soak these terminals real quick, try to clean them off, and then we'll put some protected spray on there so the uh corrosion cannot reoccur.

Then we'll fire it up one more time and then recheck. Uh, my hose o-ring that I ordered is now a present. So as soon as we get this thing kind of. Under Wraps Here we can go back and try to see if that hose that's existing on the truck is going to seal or not.

Uh, battery sealer, ignition terminal sealer. That's some BG stuff. Where's the other one? Battery cleaner. The Noco stuff.

Okay, oh wait wait wait wait. this one's open. Battery cleaner and Battery sealer. Perfect.

Okay, give it a shake, let that stuff foam up and get in there. Nice deep black and that theoretically should break away all this corrosion and leave this system nice and shiny. Hey, are you waiting on parts for that uh ramama Caravan thing. Yep, dang, have ordered from the prop people I should have ordered it.

Well, you guys didn't have any at your store so it's your fault. Okie Does some of the uh, foamy stuff has subsided? Just go a and rinse this off with some uh, loud noises with some blue water. it's windshield washer, solvent going and rinse that guy off there. that's good and we'll go and rinse the other side.

gravity flashlight. Actually, you guys knock that one down, rinse that one off, rinse that one off nice and shiny like. so we'll let that stuff dry and then we'll throw some protective sealant on uh, on those Terminals and that repair should be good to go. Yeah, that's a huge difference.

Very nice. So let me go and find that O-ring box and we're going to re o-ring that, uh, lower hose right down there and see if we we can't seal the thing up. I Believe this should fit. It's a dor Doro ring Part number 926-1056 Hose there.

She is okay. so take our o-ring and fit it over the radiator. That seems to be a good fit around the ceiling surface. So now let's see if that's going to go into the end of this hose connection here.

Pull that thing out of the way so we can kind of see what we're trying to see. Right in here is the groove for that O-ring So I don't know if this one's going to fit cuz they did state that there was a a new style hose, but it seems to seems to fit in there. Let's get her straight so it's not folded. Okay, that guy is in position.

Now the next challenge is going to be fitting it over over the radiator there. Let me get some dialectric lube on this. That way, we've got the best chance possible to make it fit and uh, we'll see how this going to work out here. Here's our lubricant.

We'll apply a liberal Coating in there. Here we go now. Fit this back over fitting and the hard part's going to be getting over that. Nozl it.

this might not fit. That's a pretty thick o-ring it look thicker than the original. I'll tell you what. I'm going to try to move some stuff out of the way.

Maybe I can get a get a good grip on this hose. I can MO move some of these uh, these fittings or cables and wires and whatnot here. battery cable right here. Put that way up there for now.

Yeah, I'm not going to be able to get much of a grip on this thing. This is aggravating, but it's worth a shot. Come on, come on. I Don't think it's going to go.

Oh man, oh man, yeah. if I look at the witness marks on that grease, there's really not not much space that's going to have to seriously compress to slide over this. uh fitting. I think that's the wrong style.

Like I said, they mentioned there was a new style and an old style and I know this is the original hose so it stands the reason that the the old style hose. Okay, we might have to change this. uh, this whole hose assembly after all. Okie do so.

Some time has passed. We got this little measuring device here. I'm going to take a measurement on the inside, the inside diameter of this o- ring, how it sits. I've gone ahead and ordered the replacement hose and it has showed up on the Shelf part store right down the road.

had it in stock. Here's what I'll do here. We're going to adjust this uh little tool here to gain an ID measurement a little bit more adjustment. I'm using my thumb here on the Wheel to adjust this.

Okay, it's barely touching both sides, so now let me hop out and go check. Let's go check the hose and see about the uh, the diameter on this other hose here. So we put that down in there. Oh, that's so close.

but it's like an eighth of an inch. See that? Yeah, that's enough. That's enough right there to make it not fit. So this is what they call the new style hose and I'm going to have to change the hose in order to seal this leak up.

That's very unfortunate. So now we need to really start tearing this thing apart. All right everybody. So here's the hose.

Like I said, it's a it's a multi Outlet conglomeration of components here. Uh, that guy is attached to the water pump. This one right here goes to the overflow tank right up here on top of the engine. We saw the issue with the fitting down below.

This diameter is just slightly different to accommodate a slightly larger o-ring on the inside. and we cannot get the O-ring that's supposed to fit perfectly inside of there. Um, I even tried to steal this o-ring out of this hose just to see if it would work. And the uh, this o-ring and this o-ring are the exact same Uh components.

So it looks like that old style hose has an Irreplaceable o-ring There's nothing I can do about it. So what we're going to have to do is drop our torch on the floor. Give me that what we're going to have to do is just replace this entire hose. Uh, like I said, that's about a three 3 4 hour job I Forget what the book said, but it's up there a little bit.

So I'm going to have to save that one uh for the uh the next video on this particular truck. So having said that, I'm going to go ahead and close this one out right now. As always, like to thank you guys for watching this video. Hope you enjoyed this video.

If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Uh, do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. and most importantly, have yourselves great day! See you guys later. See you on part two! Thanks for watching in the video in the transmission.