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Part 1: Hack Job! Mechanic Botches Engine Replacement! Ford F-150 5.4 3 Valve P0345 P0175 P0063 P2006 P2195 https://youtu.be/nO6VUpahnng
Part 2: New Engine! Full of Codes! Ford F-150 5.4 3 Valve P0345 P0175 P0063 P2006 P2195 https://youtu.be/zqERlGBZwOQ
Part 3: Tear down : NEW Engine Rattles Startup! WHO pays for THIS! Teardown on Ford F150 5.3 Triton
https://youtu.be/iWe_yCA0nnc
Part 4: New Engine! Warranty Camshaft Sprocket Cheap and Risky! Ford F150 F250 5.4 Triton https://youtu.be/pJixTJomiLA
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Wife Unit unveils our tumblers HERE! UNLISTED video https://youtu.be/
Part 1: Hack Job! Mechanic Botches Engine Replacement! Ford F-150 5.4 3 Valve P0345 P0175 P0063 P2006 P2195 https://youtu.be/nO6VUpahnng
Part 2: New Engine! Full of Codes! Ford F-150 5.4 3 Valve P0345 P0175 P0063 P2006 P2195 https://youtu.be/zqERlGBZwOQ
Part 3: Tear down : NEW Engine Rattles Startup! WHO pays for THIS! Teardown on Ford F150 5.3 Triton
https://youtu.be/iWe_yCA0nnc
Part 4: New Engine! Warranty Camshaft Sprocket Cheap and Risky! Ford F150 F250 5.4 Triton https://youtu.be/pJixTJomiLA
Support the Channel with a Like and Subscribe!
Become a Channel Member or visit Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
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Follow on Twitter: @RainmanRay4Real
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Check out my Merchandise shop for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers at www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
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2: Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
3: NOCO E404 12.25 Oz Battery Terminal Cleaner Spray and Corrosion Cleaner with Acid Detector https://amzn.to/3ILbdjv
#mechanic #wifeunit #rainmanraysrepairs #comnissionearned #mechanic #technician #dealer #independent #autorepair
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Okay, Keys Keys Keys Keys Keys Keys Keys I Need some fur Keys Over here. Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Super glad you guys are here. we are! I'm kind of bummed out right now to be here to tell you the truth because I'm I'm fighting this uphill battle on this 2004 F-150 Uh, this is the one that uh, well first of all, we had uh, several videos on this particular truck and I was hoping we were close to done but we are not. Uh, what's going on here is this thing had an engine replaced? I'll just give you guys the whole backstory and that way we're all caught up.
This thing had an engine replaced. it contains the 5.4 L Ford Triton V8 and the engine blew up on it because they all did and the the owner of the vehicle had ordered a remanufactured, mostly newish engine. So that's where the problems began on this particular particular truck. Engaging lightsaber mode oo at F350 Nice turbine diesel.
it sounds really good. It's very high flow exhaust. Anyway, back on track. Uh, the problems began when the Uh there was another shop that installed this engine and they really really botched the install.
Pretty bad. The wiring harnesses were all yanked and pulled and things were not placed in the correct direction. Um, there was some issues going on with some sensors underneath the intake manifold and that's where the Uh the our series started is I pulled the intake manifold off I writed all the wrongs from the previous install, uh, made a few wiring repairs and I eliminated Uh, uh several trouble codes that were present in the system. However, there were a couple lingering, but that wasn't the customer's main concern.
The biggest problem with this truck was a rattle SL ticking noise on Startup Now we're going to go through this one more time and listen for this noise. Um, but I do want to note that there is an exhaust leak on this side. There's a crack in the manifold. I'm going to fix that.
So back to the warranty company or the company that built the engine. We had heard some internal noises and based on what they wanted to do, they had uh. they told us to replace Uh one of the cam shaft phasers under the timing cover under the valve covers. They had me do the driver side.
What happened after that is the noise was still there because I don't believe this thing has a timing phaser issue I believe it has a bearing problem or an oil pressure Slf flow problem and I believe that because when we originally tried to diagnose this noise concern I Pulled off this driver side valve cover and we found some uh, it was like wax paper packing material. um, you know, paper. It was uh, there to cover up the open spots on the engine during shipping, after assembly and after the build well. I had found a bunch of that down inside of the timing cover, sitting on top of the timing chain.
So the folks that built the engine, they said uh, go ahead and pull the paper out, take the valve covers off. We want you to start the engine and tell us where you hear the sound coming from the most which was the driver's side and they had me replace the driver side cam shaft phaser. Okay, so what we're going to do is one more quick cold start on this just to get another capture of the ticking noises. Please bear in mind it does have that exhaust leak over here on the passenger side, but you'll be able to hear the difference if you list close. Listen close enough. What we're looking for somewhere around this area is like a tick a tick tick tick tick and then it stops and it'll go away. And I think we're going to be able to capture it. so let's go hit the key real quick.
get this thing restarted. We'll listen for the noise one more time and then we're going to pull off that other uh valve cover over there. Here we go. Okay, so what we listen for was that super high pitched metallic rattle that was like a noise and uh, that's the one that we were were focusing on So What had happened is when I originally filed this complaint uh with the the company that that built the engine, they said replace the one phaser.
the noise was still there after replacing the one phaser. And for those of you are not aware, these phasers are what allows the cam shafts to have variable valve timing. There's a solenoid on, yeah, there's one right here. There's solenoids on this engine and what those do is control oil flow through the cylinder head, which will send oil pressure into these phasers through those little ports right there.
When that oil pressure is Uh is applied, the position of this cam gear will change relative to the center line of the gear and thus changing uh uh. The position of the cam shaft as the engine is uh is running. so those were high failure prone components. Um.
I'm assuming that the folks that built this engine feel that these ones have also failed. Uh, like I said, uh after they had me replaced the first one, they're having me go back in and fix the Uh, the replace the next one. Um. I'm not so certain whether this is going to solve the issue or not, but it's not.
My maybe I didn't buy it I didn't build it and I didn't break it I'm just here trying to fix it. So we're going to go ahead and change this filter or filter. Do it. Words: We're going to change this phaser.
Got to pull the valve cover back off. I' got to pull the ECM back out. I'm going to try to do this as quickly as possible. Many of you have already seen this operation take place on this side, so we're sort of doing this in duplicate, but at the same time, we're also documenting this uh, this repair on this particular truck.
I'm I'm really trying to get this thing back together. um my, my guy is upside down on it. You know it's an 04 F-150 with a new engine in it. uh he.
he's got a lot of money in this thing and I just I want to get it right? I need to correct this Injustice in the world. So having said all that, let's go ah and get started. We don't have all day and I I really need to get this thing changed out and back together by end of day. All right, let's go ahead and get started. I'm going to make haste I Will attempt to keep uh commentary down to a minimum because this is more of a get it done and hustle job than uh than anything else. So let's uh, let's get hustling. They say that there's nothing faster than mechanics and technicians that have to do it twice like your first time arounds, your your honeymoon phase and then Second Time Around you're you're really getting after it and so this is the second or third time around. So I'm getting pretty good at taking this engine apart.
I think I hope I hope I think 10 mil. This is the new ECM That's where this whole project started. They had all the bunch of trouble codes and someone decided needed an ECM then that didn't fix it. Then they decided they needed a bunch of sensors that didn't fix it.
Then they decided they needed an engine that didn't fix it. Then they decided we needed phasers that's not going to fix it. So yeah I don't know. A bungee cord real fast to pull this ear hose out of the way.
I'll just connect it to the brake booster. that's sort of didn't to do what I wanted. Okay, that's out of the way. Let's get some hoses disconnected.
CCV Hos I don't think I have to disconnect that. one may do have to disconnect this one. A lot of activity around the shop today. Got three guys in here working concrete.
Guys are grinding concrete and granite and all that good stuff. Everybody's working working for the weekend. What we're going to do is remove the valve cover. Oh I got to discharge the AC again too or is it already discharged I Don't know if I recharged it or not.
Tell you guys the truth I don't recall. come connect your the fuel injector back there there or foil I think got it okay harness is disconnected it again for the up time wasting my time my memory banks tell me that this AC system is still discharged. Find out and it is okay AC Hose Stick that over here now we're getting some space play with Take this guy lo as well. There we go.
Shove this guy back in the hole to keep it out of the way. Get in there and now we're back at the valve cover again. Let's pull the perimeter bolts back out and remove it again. Hand shaft, solenoid again.
There we go. Okay, 88 mil ratcheting wrench. Let's get the coils removed. Pop got one out back.
All right. We're getting somewhere going after the perimeter bolts on the cover next. Hey R Yes sir, what is it? what can I do for you sir? W Go 4x4 I got no code I have Ving down to the hubs I have manually locked it in put it in 4x4 Jack The in front of the truck up and realize that the axle shaft spins so that means it's locked mechanically to the hub. Yeah so now I'm trying to compare the other side and I have the same thing. but now I'm comparing how fast this vacuum gate is pumping up uhuh to each side. Each side's holding vacuum but when I start pumping the driver's side up, it goes right 15 in the other one. I got to pump like 10 times in order it for it to get up to the same as the other side. y it's got to be something your Seal's leaking right? but it's holding back.
Maybe the hubs are all gummed up. Someone threw a bunch of wheel bearing grease in there or whatever and it got water in it and and just the hubs are all gummed up. What do you guys think? It's a vacuum operated system with manual lockers as a as a backup. So when you command it on with the car.
So when you go inside the cab and you say hey, put me in four 4x4 everything is sending. It's pulling vacuum at the hubs to lock the front hubs I turn it on and I can immediately watch my vacuum gug go to 12 in should. So the car is working and the button working and the vacuum pump's working. There's no leaks and it's holding vacuum there, but they're physically not locking into at the hubs both sides.
Yeah, but if one side's losing back system you got to leak. Is that the one with a big like 6 7 in Seal in it? You got to leak at that seal right? I would think so. like if I'm pumping up the driver's side and it comes right up 15 in and the other side I got to I Think there's something wrong with passage side? Yeah, yeah, it's and they're both teed together. They're not independent from the pump either, so they share the same vacuum source.
You got an issue with the Hub I I pull the hub off. um see uh See If it's all gummed up inside, take it apart. and if that looks good, you probably got a bad seal like it got driven in sideways. seal like like a yeah, like a that one yeah or uh yeah that it's leaking air.
That's what it's doing. Teamwork is Dream Work Folks, teamwork is dream work. That's how it's done. So anyway, let me get this: Uh I still have the dipstick tube for the transmission loose on this because we at some point when this is fixed, whether I put an engine in it or whether we just keep putting parts inside of this engine.
at some point this vehicle is going to have to get that exhaust manifold replaced and uh I need to. uh I left my options open to get the manifold out which is why I did not put that dipstick tube back on. you guys probably didn't notice till I said something. but I'm all about transparency around here.
There seems to be a massive deficit of that in the world. and U I do my part to make the world a better place. or at least my I make my world a better place and hopefully others can do the same if you want to. I Mean you don't have to.
You can not do anything. It's a free country so they tell us. okay, those are all loose. the one in the back and then the other one in the other back and I think I've got one more. No, it's free. it's loose. It's FL free and loose. Okay, if memory serves what I had to do to get this in here: Shove this wire harness down all the way down, get in there harness, and then wiggle this thing out I Believe that's how I got it together.
I should probably just take this uh AC accumulator off. that might be easier. Kind of like saw zwing bushings out of a Nissan Infinity got it. Look at that brand new shiny Dorman valve cover.
Good job. Dorman Okay, so here's our phaser in question: This is the the next warrantable component to replace. We're going to do this the same method as the other side. I'm going to shove that little wedge down in there between these chains.
We're going to lock this cam down with some vice grips and I'm going to unbolt it, pull the unit off, and switch it out. That's the plan. So there's a cam sensor here in front of the head. Let you get in there and pluck that sensor out and throw the Fastener on the floor.
It's cool I hit the ground I didn't mean to do that. That's our sensor. Good to go. Okay, so we're not going to roll this around and set up time.
I'm going to do this the same way we did the other one. I'm going to put put a mark on the chain and that's going to line up with one of the factory marks on the phaser. If we look at the old phaser, you can see there's an L Mark right there. There's an l and an r and I'm just R referencing the L mark on this side.
so all I have to do is just mark up this L with the uh, the same mark that I put on the chain and it will maintain its ignition or valve timing. Okay, just like the other side, we're going to lock this cam in with some vice grips. you see, there's no uh, there's no Flats on this cam to get a tool, but there is a uh, a nice space right here that I can get a grip on. and I happen to have these uh, these curve jawed, uh, fairly aggressive vice grips so these will be sufficient to hold this cam in position while we take this gear off.
As long as I've got everything kind of set up properly, lock that on right there, that's tight. Okay, this is resting against this AC line which is resting against this uh battery box and if we look at the gear and I give it a pull, we can see how the inside of that gear will rotate independent of the chain itself. So that's what we're looking for. We want to lock the cam shaft in position and then have the chain and the outside portion of the gear remain uh in it in its position.
So now we can come in with the wedge tool and shove this guy down in between the uh the two sides of the chain. see if I can get this to fit properly. Space is tight. Get in there tool.
Okay I guess it's going to go on the top side this time shoving it down now. What's Happening Here is As I Push this wedge in between those two pieces of chain. It is, uh, depressing the tensioner under the cover so it's actually putting some slack into this chain. I think I can probably move it by hand now. Yep, so there is some slack going on there. push it a little farther. Yep, that is locked into position. So now now we can take this bolt loose and remove the phaser.
Let's just see if the 90 is going to do it. 90 Milwaukee Impact It's the wrong sized socket. No, No. I got it.
It just wasn't fitting. There we go Got it. Reuser error, unclicking. Okay, okay, we're a little tight.
All right. What I need to do is pull back a little bit on um on these vice grips and then stick something in there to kind of shim it out. I think I'll just use a uh, like a blue towel. just use a towel.
I don't need much out of this. There we go. Yep, that's more loose. see right there.
Chain's still pretty tight. There it goes. See it. Go slack right there.
That's what. I what? I needed a little bit more towel. shim. Just shove it up there a little tighter.
Okay I'm feeling the chain on both sides and it does have slack. Come on baby. come off of there wle and it is free. I'm double checking my mark.
that looks good. Let's go ahead and walk the chain up off the gear. Got it? and I want to keep tension on this chain just in case it feels like going somewhere. So I'll just, uh, stick a pry bar in there just to hang on to it.
There we go. All right, we're halfway there. Okay, that's the uh old gear we just took off and new unit is wrapped up quite nicely from Ford These are: Ford OEM Parts Um, these are something you don't mess around with with aftermarket parts. If you are going to service this engine, use Ford parts every time.
Do not try to save a few bucks with these. uh, these other components. Yeah, it will. It will not work out for you in the end.
So anyway, checking these out, it's the same partner as the other side that we had a we used on the driver's side. We got the L the L Three marks. Three marks. These are the pickups for the cam gear or the cam position sensor.
So we got three tabs, two tabs. There is our Mark here and our Mark here next. I Want to check the alignment pin and that is in the correct position. So this unit does meet my visual specification analysis.
Let's get this guy back on its chain and back on the camera. All right. Coming back in, let's get a hold of the chain. I'm keeping some tension on it.
Let's see here. where's my mark right? and you guys probably can't see cuz I can barely see but I know it's there I think I've got it. Okay, marks lined up. That's good.
Let's fit this. uh, this gear back on the cam. Now we're a little off. Okay, because that pin has moved and I need to make sure that the pin is lined up exactly with the recess that is uh on the cam shaft itself.
So I need my hand back? You stay there. What I'll do here is get the bolt in so we'll start the bolt, thread that through into the cam, and what I can do with this bolt is apply just a slight bit of pressure against the cam shaft. Then I can take the vice grips and move the position of the cam until it finds that uh, recess for the pin and then it'll drop into position, threading it down, threading it down, continuing to thread it down. There we go. Actually I'm really close I might be on it. 15 Coming in on a Qu inch. Drive Oh yeah, it's it's going right in. I got it.
That's it. It went right into position. That's beautiful little bit of torque. Let's check it, see if it's any anything's going to move and I think we're good.
Let's go ahead and pull the pull the w Edge back out, See how this is going to work out for us? here. there's the wedge tool extracted. This guy is installed. Let's get some torque on it and we get the cover back on.
Then we'll restart it again and see if it makes noise again. Okay, I need to get a little bit of pre- torque on this. Let's go ahead and hang on to the see if you can't see. I'm hanging on to those spice grips with my left hand here there.
Now you can see kind of not really applying some torques. we're pre- torqueing it before we torque torque it. There we go now. I'm going to do this.
I'm going to take some time out of the day and I'm going to apply the actual digital torque wrench here. Uh, these are usually scenes that I remove to save time and uh so I can also interject some comedic click action, but since there seems to be some new folks around that don't understand kind of the the humor here. I'm just going to appease you guys this one time. it's one time only and I'm going to apply actual torque with a digitized torquing wrench that way, you know and I know and I know that you know that we all know this gets torqued.
Okay, where are we at? We're up to 65. Let's reset here and do it again. Oh where we at 74. It's not beeping at us I wonder why we're We're being silent.
Anyway, we're at 74 looking for 89. There we go. Now we're beeping 77 a little bit more. Where' that stop? 83 We're getting there.
That's it. Rapid Beeps 89. Woo. Got it there.
So now you know that I do know how to use a torque wrench I have several of them. actually a whole drawer full of them. Oh yeah, one other thing. those are new bolts.
Phasers came with a new Bolt The people at Ford know better. They won't sell you a phaser without a bolt. Okay, it's cover time coming in I need to wipe the surface away again. There's an oil surface here or a ceiling surface for oil.
Words: And when we took the cover off, we lost all the sealant. So I need to get some more on there. This little dim size dab will do it. Little bit more down here.
There we go. Okay, now we can get our cover back in position. Okay, shiny new cover. coming back. Let's tuck away these uh, these wire connectors here to make sure we don't get one stuck inside of the head. Very common oversight you won't notice. So you go to plug things in and then you realize you got a wire running under your valve cover. It happens.
The worst way is when you actually break a connector doing that. so ask me how I know cuz that's how I learn to make mistakes and then evaluate what I've done Okay covers back on. Let's get a little bit of turning action on those studs to secure this in place. Do the one in the top in the center.
Okay, now I'm just going to do a recheck for wires. make sure nobody's stuff inside of the valve cover and we're looking good, nobody's there. Let's go through and tighten these units up. Excellent.
Okay, valve cover is back on now. it's just miscellaneous pieces and uh, we'll be able to get to the restart real quick here. Let's get the coils in next. Okay, back to front, drop them down like line up the bolt, get it started, and then we'll come through at the end and apply some.
Tores Hey, don't feel bad Dave Found 35 lbs of air in my tires. 35 35 65 Yeah, yeah, mine was at 17. Yeah, we're we're horrible. Everybody else's stuff gets fixed besides ours we maintained.
But yeah, you all know how air pressure is. Nobody pays attention to air pressure. Back in the days of shop class that was ingrained in our culture and now it's We got those little lights that tell us. so we lost interest and no longer participate in the uh, the maintaining of our daily driving piece of Hardware come out harness.
Yeah, this is where we start really running out of space. Here we go back. Coil There we are. There's the coil, injector coil and the bracket for the harness.
Keep it all located nice and neat. Injector coil again, bracket, again, injector again see that one. Cam phaser, solenoid. This one goes over right here.
Good Good good. It's coming along quite nicely. This one goes up to the Uh throttle body little PCV hose that can go back. yeah, this happened fast.
Uhoh what have I done there? and oh I have it backwards. it's Bass award. that's what we're doing. flip it around, tug it in there.
Then right down below us we got the cam shaft position sensor which I have failed to reinstall. Let's get that guy back in. It's going to be kind of hard to be hard to run the cams with no sensors to tell the ACM where the cams are. that's sensor plugged in.
There's the Fastener that I dropped earlier. where's the little bolt hole? Whole thing down there good. Can position sensor connector right here that goes there. that's all good and got the little circular one this guy plugs in right here on this uh harness.
Excellent! Okay, so now we need the Uh ECM bracket and then we'll put the ECM back on uh to three bolts. So when we're done here, we're obviously going to restart this and check for noise. Um, first start's going to give us some noise because that phaser needs to get oil pressure to it and unfortunately because of the fact that this thing has already started today, it may not make that cold start rattle, but we'll check it. If it doesn't rattle then uh well. I'll have to do a followup on another cold start to, uh, confirm that the rattle is no longer there and you know I could be wrong. but I'm I'm not of the opinion that it's a phaser issue again, or it could be a phaser issue. but I believe it would have been caused by an oiling issue because I think that some of that packing material was ingested by the engine and it may have been consumed by the engine and is no longer relevant to the situation at hand. But that doesn't mean it didn't cause damage while it was in there floating around and the filter might have caught it and the filter might not have caught it.
We? we don't know I didn't tear the engine apart to find out. Uh, one more. This one goes on this side over here. This one comes from around back right there.
primary harness connected there. Good good, good. That's all back together. Let's get the battery back on right there battery.
Click it. that's tight. Recap: That's on. That's on.
That's on. that's on this. went on this side. injectors, coils, valve cover time.
All I need to do now is uh get this uh H back line back together and I shouldn't have done that I need this to go through there but I can't cuz this is plugged in her shair. Okay AC line that's that's back on. Put that back on. Okay, let's get this thing restarted Okie does all right.
We are about to uh have the Moment of Truth starting the engine all right Dave shut her down okay I didn't hear it I did not hear the clanky Ticky noise I actually expected to hear it out of this side just because that was a dry start phaser. Um I'm going to let this sit overnight I'm going to come back tomorrow. We're going to check it again and it see what happens the second time around. So having said all that guys I Think we're all done with this particular video? Let me know what you think about this situation in the comment section down below.
Do Not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day. See you guys later! Keep a look out for the followup video on this noise. Uh, fingers crossed. We hope it does not do it because I would really like to call this Good Fix that manifold and then send this thing back to where it belongs.
This is the job that doesn't end.
It just goes on and on my friend.
Someone started fixing it,
Not knowing what it was.
And they'll just keep on fixing it forever just because …
:Repeat until someone threatens to kill you…
Hi Ray FYI, Here in Australia reconstituted stone products (kitchen counters etc) have been found to be very hazardous to cut and work on due to the silica dust that is created. This dust causes Silicosis an untreatable and fatal lung disease. Please make sure you are not a possible victim, we can’t afford to lose you! Keep up the great work.
I think you’re messing with us again Ray. You know that phaser bolt can’t be reused and has a very specific torque sequence. 👍🏼
Nice work. Torque wrench is proper lol. Cheers 🍺
Hmmm, is ARod gonna move to Florida and partner up with Ray?
Sounds like timing chain tensioner failure
It's dead Jim… I hear valve ticking until the oil pressure comes up… Which is not good.
Odds are 10:1 that one of two things didn't happen in the "rebuild."
1) They didn't replace the chain tensioners. The seals blow out and bleed off after a shutdown. This causes some top-end noise on startup until the pump can build pressure. Sometimes there is also a pressure issue at hot idle.
2) It's SOP to replace the OEM oil pump with a Melling high-volume pump whenever opening one of these up. Guessing they didn't do that based on the caliber of the rest of the work.
Having found the paper inside, if mine, I would have dropped the oil pan and looked for any evidence of debris clogging the pickup strainer.
If I remember, sometime early on, it was started with the cam covers off. Whilst oil sprayed everywhere, that does give an indication of how long the pressure takes to reach the cams.
Try to run a bore scope to view oul pick up or run anolog gauge on oil pressure ray
I’ve got to admit, after you previously found the protective paper chunks inside the engine, (if it were mine) I wouldn’t be able to sleep without pulling the oil pan and verifying the pan and oil pump pickup are clean… this is what we call the beginnings of a $h*t-show..
Maybe fix that exhaust leak first. That way you can zero in on that tapping.
Just curious, who do you bill for all of this "warranty" work? And what happens if the warranty company says "no, the engine is fine"? Do you bill the owner of the truck for all this work?
What company built & sold that engine? They should fully replace it.
where are the star trek phaser jokes- set phaser to stun!
I can't stand digital torque wrenches.
My God, the complexity of modern engines. I don’t know how you have the patience. I hope my 94 Toyota 4×4 pickup never gives up the ghost. I can easily access almost everything on that little 22re 4 cylinder.
There is only one fix friend. Leave the keys in it. Leave it unlocked. Let someone steal it and use the insurance money to buy a 4.6L. I did the cam phasers and 10 months later the timing chain snapped. I wish someone had given me the advice i just gave you.
jesus criminy. If I had a ticking up top and found a bunch of paper or other debre in the timing chain area, I would know for sure it was most likely and oil blockage issue. I mean you told them and they still are like duhhh
Recommend you buy yourself some releasable zip ties. They're good at holding errant wires, hoses, and so on off to one side out of the way. Then when you want to remove said zip tie, you squeeze the release tab, and unzip the zip tie. Then it can be used again on a different day.
All I hear about this engine is how bad they are…. In fact, most Ford truck engines have a pretty bad reputation in owners. The only ones I don't hear much from is the 5.0, which is one of their best engines.
Repent to Jesus Christ ”Be patient, then, brothers and sisters, until the Lord’s coming. See how the farmer waits for the land to yield its valuable crop, patiently waiting for the autumn and spring rains. You too, be patient and stand firm, because the Lord’s coming is near.“
James 5:7-8 NIV
R
I was certain that would have been a chain tensioner.
The shop I worked at (retired last March), when replacing timing chains we would use the older style tensioners . I mean the metal ones with the ratchet mechanisms. It would eliminate the normal start up rattle associated with the plastic tensioners. They fit tight on assembly, but they do fit. Just an FYI deal for what it's worth.
You are correct. The second time always goes much quicker! Also, those Ford vacuum hubs,,,,,,,aaaarrrggghhhh!
Not sure what you did there but I enjoyed the video today more than usual. The camera work was masterful. You got right in there.
Sounds exactly like a hyundai I had where the timing chain tensioner failed and would make that noise with a cold engine just for a second.
I have 200k on my 08 F1500. Motor wont quit its a champ
Never knew much about the timing chain or belt wedges to lock it and maintain the timing.
I bought a few from TEMU for vary little and have them should the occasion arise.
How much is the warranty company paying anyways?
I'm curious if the warranty company is one of the many that advertise on TV?
I've thiught about using one, but just cant help but yhink that as long as they are making money, they are happy, but will nickel and dime mechanics and parts people to soend the very least they can.
The commercials make it sound so great, but uf they are like home warranty companies, they make it sound like no worries. They will fix it replace with like models, but when it comes to doing a replacement or authorizing a repair, they only approve a fraction and pay the customer, not actually replacing the defective appliance, but they pay off some unseen list that isn't what it actually cost to replace.
My home warranty paid me only $250 for a under counter above stove microwave that went bad. They said the microwave was not repairable.
But a new one was $600+ and insult to injury, I had to remove the old one, find a second hand one and figure out how to remount it.
I don't trust warranty companies anymore.
Sounds like a diesel. 😊
Its supposed to make noise so you will know the cam is caming. Quick fix sell it to someone after installing big speakers in the back. They will never hear the tic tic tic only the boom boom boom
Brand new genuine Ford cam phasers were what was removed . So much for buying factory Ford phasers.. They failed on a new engine. Most all factory parts are produced outside of US these days.
It's amazing how fast I can disassemble a harness, tear a powertrain apart and put it back together after a dealer/enginerd tries to tell me something won't work to fix a problem…
Seems like half the job is disconnecting wiring harnesses! The last half is re-connecting everything. The actual replacing of parts is the third half!!!! 🤪
Looks like you got a new tube of sealant from Santa!! 👍
Obviously the OEM parts are crap also Ray. Those were new that you are replacing. The problem is that motor and it's engineering snafu's.
smoke test each hub
Should have put a different engine in. 😆
Variable valve timing always has issues and is a bad solution to increase engine performance and reduced emissions and lower gas usage. Every engine engineer should be required to do all repairs first then they would understand the issue with their terrible designs.
5-20 oil😮 no bueno.
I hope that the rebuild company paid you upfront.
Ray its still clicking
On a/c, this is right because reference is when your siting in the driver seat looking fwr. It got me confused for a sec. there.
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Can you do an autopsy on the phasers?
In the UK we have to pay for air at the petrol station.
So impressive Ray. Anyone can take stuff apart, but remembering where everything goes back and it works again is tough…
I bet 10 doodlie-doos that there is also 1 or more faulty cam followers. You know they weren’t replaced by the engine “rebuilders”.
I also had a 5.4 Ford in 2006 and it was the timing chain issue pretty much exactly like Josh commented. Hmmmm
How frustrating…that warranty company is going to throw parts at it and it will never be fixed. That new engine is no good…cam phasers don't fix the problem…next they will tell you to replace the oil pump and that won't fix it…then it will be timing chains and that won't fix it. It's probably a cam bearing or something but willing to bet it needs another new engine. Something went wrong with that remanufacturing process. Feel for that customer for sure…hope they do right by him and replace the engine again
Hi Ray, so this truck hasn’t left the shop? If it’s warranty work why isn’t the builders taking care of this?
I know people in need of help should be taken care of, but seems like this work will drag out in the builders favor. Draining your time patience and labour. Your diagnosis will be the very last thing to be considered long after they run out of things to try.
Hope you survive this. Good luck. Great channel!
Welcoming back!
Wouldn’t it be worth it to slap some JB Weld on that crack in the exhaust manifold, just a temporary way to make it shut up. It might make it easier to localize where the clicking and clattering is coming from. Then you can replace the manifold later.
Please fix the exhaust leak, please. It's driving me crazy every time you start it.
This is literally textbook timing chain tensioner failure. They leak down over time once oil pressure is gone and when its restarted you here chain slap until oil pressure is built back up. This isn't really that difficult.
I wonder what you'd see if you drained the oil and looked at the oil pickup with a boroscope. I wouldn't be surprised to find it full of that paper debris.
I had one of those. Went through the same thing. The engine blew, two cylinders lost compression, had a new crate engine put in it, then 80,000 mi later did the same thing. Bent over 8,000 on getting that engine put in. I sold it when it started doing it again, Ford is a rip off company, I will never buy another freaking Ford. Now I know what people meant when they say Ford stands for found on road dead. They should have recalled those engines years ago, but never did. Because they knew they could rip off people that had no idea what was going on. Your video just proved that. Thank you Ray, you just backed up my theory!! Praise the Lord I hope that people see this and never by their products again.
Starter making noise when cold… ?
Damn the warranty place could have just paid for a new engine and retrieved and diagnosed the engine to confirm the problem with their own mechanics. Clean install for you and some cash I hand with the exhaust headers replace.
I think it's an unsubscribe for me you are getting boring you like the sound of your own voice to much + you like to take credit for other people pointing out you're mistakes people watch to see how the job is done not listen to you go on with yourself.
Seems to me few years back an old man taught me about these things that work for Ford for years the biggest damage you can do to rebuilding one of these motors is putting the gasket back up underneath the tensioners for the timing chain you said they usually blow out one side or the other within the first 10,000 MI
Warranty jobs do not PAY. I never want or will not take this bullshit. Stink—smells like shit, the more you stir it. The more it stinks.
respect
It's either lifter from lack of oil or chain noise.. but I'd tackle that manifold so you don't have to worry about that drowning out the timing system noise.
LS swap it and be done working on it. lol
GOD knows I hate those engines, trucks arent bad but damn FORD dropped the ball on those, Where are the 4 non Blondes Ray? J/K Thanks for the video
FIX THE KNOWN NOISES FIRST
This reminds me of "Ground Hogg Day" and that isn't necessarily good.
Ahhhh the old 5.4 Triton, sketchy parts, poor install and chinesium rebuild repair! Every day of our lives my dude.
Why the spark at the fuse block?
With all the money the insurance company is paying for all these attempts to correct the defect, and failing. It might be better if they just replace the entire engine.
Thank you
I didn't hear the ticking all I headed was the noise from the pipe but it still might be there as you say
Hope that things fixed now ray pain in the rear end fords
It's 5.4 Triton 3 valve. Ugh.
Have yourselves a great day… and some battery clickages! 😂
Air pressure matters….I feel a difference if i am 3-4 psi low…if you get a TP alarm, it's way past just low. tire pressures matter.
smoke test the hubs…
I hope your near a hospital or you are in a rough neighborhood. The last video I watched had sirens in it as well
I hate it when a company warranties something and then in the face of overwhelmingly obvious evidence proceeds to cheap out on said warranty. Bought a car from a well known national used car dealership. Two weeks later it was blowing fresh oil out of the tail pipe. (Turbocharged Mazda 3). Obvious failure of the labyrinth seals on the turbo. The dealership refused over and over to replace the turbo even after I presented them with the actual Mazda service bulletins about this issue. In the end they wound up cracking the head and told me I was on my own. I got a full refund after getting an attorney involved. But that shit chaps my ass!
You probably could have changed a short block in the time you done this twice
It is annoying when warranty geeks think they know better than a mechanic with many years of experience.((I know because I have had to deal with them myself before I retired & I only did it once it just was not worth the time & pittance they pay you.).
Ya think he blew a seal? that had to be odd to see.
I wonder if some of that paper that was in the engine and then sucked up by the oil pick up tube in the oil pan
I heard the clicking noise on restart! 😲😲
Sound of a dying engine 😂
“ low pressure Ray” yes it is still important to maintain air pressure better milage, and control of your car / truck!
if one tire is low in pressure, you can lose control due to less traction. properly inflated tires are much more stable.
and good tread lasts longer. also as you are aware tires are very expensive $$$. at least 1 check a month! just get into
the habit on a specific day each month to do the task.
Novel idea, let Ray diagnose problem, then fix it, warranty company pays Ray……Simple, no?
How much $$$$ is the truck owner willing to throw at a 04 F150, if it's not 4×4 it's not worth over 6k, if it's rusted out it ain't worth anything. But least you get well versed in phaser work and you not beating your brains on bushings…….
Next you are going to have a blowed out spark plug
I'd like to know who is the reman co and if you got paid for everything you did ?
I had an 04 expedition with 180k miles on original engine it got very regular oil changes never had a problem with engine
Good shew!
For the vacuum hub locker it sounds like the hub is either gummed up or maybe the vacuum line is old and could be collapsing when vacuum is applied.
Dear Ray: Please don't think that my comment about using a torque wrench was mean. It was not. I am not a "new viewer" since I have been watching you probably for over two-plus years. Let see. During your full stint at the place before you opened your own shop. Then almost the entire stint at the previous place with that goofy kid you joked with. Maybe that was the dealership? No matter, you and your videos are set pieces for my coffee.
That said, I noticed that @steve8337, @michaellawrence6677,@scotthasset2676, @swolenation8432, and @tom535 all mentioned torque wrenches. @Cedro Cron made a snide remark regarding those that mentioned this tool. (Yes, I read all the comments!)
My basic point was that I have heard you say, and I laughed, "I'll 'torque' to you later" and this seemed appropriate. So, please show some torque just to reassure your 3/4 of a million viewers!
Tommorow noise comes back, says replace again, ray says f that find someone else I'm done with this piece 😂😂😂😂😂
1) How do you not fix the exhaust leak first so you can hear properly?
2) check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge if you're so committed
3) Its also wise to get a Borescope in the oil pan, if paper got in, its probably blocking the oil pickup tube…
This is weird