Okay, Keys Keys Keys Keys Keys Keys Keys I Need some fur Keys Over here. Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Super glad you guys are here. we are! I'm kind of bummed out right now to be here to tell you the truth because I'm I'm fighting this uphill battle on this 2004 F-150 Uh, this is the one that uh, well first of all, we had uh, several videos on this particular truck and I was hoping we were close to done but we are not. Uh, what's going on here is this thing had an engine replaced? I'll just give you guys the whole backstory and that way we're all caught up.

This thing had an engine replaced. it contains the 5.4 L Ford Triton V8 and the engine blew up on it because they all did and the the owner of the vehicle had ordered a remanufactured, mostly newish engine. So that's where the problems began on this particular particular truck. Engaging lightsaber mode oo at F350 Nice turbine diesel.

it sounds really good. It's very high flow exhaust. Anyway, back on track. Uh, the problems began when the Uh there was another shop that installed this engine and they really really botched the install.

Pretty bad. The wiring harnesses were all yanked and pulled and things were not placed in the correct direction. Um, there was some issues going on with some sensors underneath the intake manifold and that's where the Uh the our series started is I pulled the intake manifold off I writed all the wrongs from the previous install, uh, made a few wiring repairs and I eliminated Uh, uh several trouble codes that were present in the system. However, there were a couple lingering, but that wasn't the customer's main concern.

The biggest problem with this truck was a rattle SL ticking noise on Startup Now we're going to go through this one more time and listen for this noise. Um, but I do want to note that there is an exhaust leak on this side. There's a crack in the manifold. I'm going to fix that.

So back to the warranty company or the company that built the engine. We had heard some internal noises and based on what they wanted to do, they had uh. they told us to replace Uh one of the cam shaft phasers under the timing cover under the valve covers. They had me do the driver side.

What happened after that is the noise was still there because I don't believe this thing has a timing phaser issue I believe it has a bearing problem or an oil pressure Slf flow problem and I believe that because when we originally tried to diagnose this noise concern I Pulled off this driver side valve cover and we found some uh, it was like wax paper packing material. um, you know, paper. It was uh, there to cover up the open spots on the engine during shipping, after assembly and after the build well. I had found a bunch of that down inside of the timing cover, sitting on top of the timing chain.

So the folks that built the engine, they said uh, go ahead and pull the paper out, take the valve covers off. We want you to start the engine and tell us where you hear the sound coming from the most which was the driver's side and they had me replace the driver side cam shaft phaser. Okay, so what we're going to do is one more quick cold start on this just to get another capture of the ticking noises. Please bear in mind it does have that exhaust leak over here on the passenger side, but you'll be able to hear the difference if you list close.

Listen close enough. What we're looking for somewhere around this area is like a tick a tick tick tick tick and then it stops and it'll go away. And I think we're going to be able to capture it. so let's go hit the key real quick.

get this thing restarted. We'll listen for the noise one more time and then we're going to pull off that other uh valve cover over there. Here we go. Okay, so what we listen for was that super high pitched metallic rattle that was like a noise and uh, that's the one that we were were focusing on So What had happened is when I originally filed this complaint uh with the the company that that built the engine, they said replace the one phaser.

the noise was still there after replacing the one phaser. And for those of you are not aware, these phasers are what allows the cam shafts to have variable valve timing. There's a solenoid on, yeah, there's one right here. There's solenoids on this engine and what those do is control oil flow through the cylinder head, which will send oil pressure into these phasers through those little ports right there.

When that oil pressure is Uh is applied, the position of this cam gear will change relative to the center line of the gear and thus changing uh uh. The position of the cam shaft as the engine is uh is running. so those were high failure prone components. Um.

I'm assuming that the folks that built this engine feel that these ones have also failed. Uh, like I said, uh after they had me replaced the first one, they're having me go back in and fix the Uh, the replace the next one. Um. I'm not so certain whether this is going to solve the issue or not, but it's not.

My maybe I didn't buy it I didn't build it and I didn't break it I'm just here trying to fix it. So we're going to go ahead and change this filter or filter. Do it. Words: We're going to change this phaser.

Got to pull the valve cover back off. I' got to pull the ECM back out. I'm going to try to do this as quickly as possible. Many of you have already seen this operation take place on this side, so we're sort of doing this in duplicate, but at the same time, we're also documenting this uh, this repair on this particular truck.

I'm I'm really trying to get this thing back together. um my, my guy is upside down on it. You know it's an 04 F-150 with a new engine in it. uh he.

he's got a lot of money in this thing and I just I want to get it right? I need to correct this Injustice in the world. So having said all that, let's go ah and get started. We don't have all day and I I really need to get this thing changed out and back together by end of day. All right, let's go ahead and get started.

I'm going to make haste I Will attempt to keep uh commentary down to a minimum because this is more of a get it done and hustle job than uh than anything else. So let's uh, let's get hustling. They say that there's nothing faster than mechanics and technicians that have to do it twice like your first time arounds, your your honeymoon phase and then Second Time Around you're you're really getting after it and so this is the second or third time around. So I'm getting pretty good at taking this engine apart.

I think I hope I hope I think 10 mil. This is the new ECM That's where this whole project started. They had all the bunch of trouble codes and someone decided needed an ECM then that didn't fix it. Then they decided they needed a bunch of sensors that didn't fix it.

Then they decided they needed an engine that didn't fix it. Then they decided we needed phasers that's not going to fix it. So yeah I don't know. A bungee cord real fast to pull this ear hose out of the way.

I'll just connect it to the brake booster. that's sort of didn't to do what I wanted. Okay, that's out of the way. Let's get some hoses disconnected.

CCV Hos I don't think I have to disconnect that. one may do have to disconnect this one. A lot of activity around the shop today. Got three guys in here working concrete.

Guys are grinding concrete and granite and all that good stuff. Everybody's working working for the weekend. What we're going to do is remove the valve cover. Oh I got to discharge the AC again too or is it already discharged I Don't know if I recharged it or not.

Tell you guys the truth I don't recall. come connect your the fuel injector back there there or foil I think got it okay harness is disconnected it again for the up time wasting my time my memory banks tell me that this AC system is still discharged. Find out and it is okay AC Hose Stick that over here now we're getting some space play with Take this guy lo as well. There we go.

Shove this guy back in the hole to keep it out of the way. Get in there and now we're back at the valve cover again. Let's pull the perimeter bolts back out and remove it again. Hand shaft, solenoid again.

There we go. Okay, 88 mil ratcheting wrench. Let's get the coils removed. Pop got one out back.

All right. We're getting somewhere going after the perimeter bolts on the cover next. Hey R Yes sir, what is it? what can I do for you sir? W Go 4x4 I got no code I have Ving down to the hubs I have manually locked it in put it in 4x4 Jack The in front of the truck up and realize that the axle shaft spins so that means it's locked mechanically to the hub. Yeah so now I'm trying to compare the other side and I have the same thing.

but now I'm comparing how fast this vacuum gate is pumping up uhuh to each side. Each side's holding vacuum but when I start pumping the driver's side up, it goes right 15 in the other one. I got to pump like 10 times in order it for it to get up to the same as the other side. y it's got to be something your Seal's leaking right? but it's holding back.

Maybe the hubs are all gummed up. Someone threw a bunch of wheel bearing grease in there or whatever and it got water in it and and just the hubs are all gummed up. What do you guys think? It's a vacuum operated system with manual lockers as a as a backup. So when you command it on with the car.

So when you go inside the cab and you say hey, put me in four 4x4 everything is sending. It's pulling vacuum at the hubs to lock the front hubs I turn it on and I can immediately watch my vacuum gug go to 12 in should. So the car is working and the button working and the vacuum pump's working. There's no leaks and it's holding vacuum there, but they're physically not locking into at the hubs both sides.

Yeah, but if one side's losing back system you got to leak. Is that the one with a big like 6 7 in Seal in it? You got to leak at that seal right? I would think so. like if I'm pumping up the driver's side and it comes right up 15 in and the other side I got to I Think there's something wrong with passage side? Yeah, yeah, it's and they're both teed together. They're not independent from the pump either, so they share the same vacuum source.

You got an issue with the Hub I I pull the hub off. um see uh See If it's all gummed up inside, take it apart. and if that looks good, you probably got a bad seal like it got driven in sideways. seal like like a yeah, like a that one yeah or uh yeah that it's leaking air.

That's what it's doing. Teamwork is Dream Work Folks, teamwork is dream work. That's how it's done. So anyway, let me get this: Uh I still have the dipstick tube for the transmission loose on this because we at some point when this is fixed, whether I put an engine in it or whether we just keep putting parts inside of this engine.

at some point this vehicle is going to have to get that exhaust manifold replaced and uh I need to. uh I left my options open to get the manifold out which is why I did not put that dipstick tube back on. you guys probably didn't notice till I said something. but I'm all about transparency around here.

There seems to be a massive deficit of that in the world. and U I do my part to make the world a better place. or at least my I make my world a better place and hopefully others can do the same if you want to. I Mean you don't have to.

You can not do anything. It's a free country so they tell us. okay, those are all loose. the one in the back and then the other one in the other back and I think I've got one more.

No, it's free. it's loose. It's FL free and loose. Okay, if memory serves what I had to do to get this in here: Shove this wire harness down all the way down, get in there harness, and then wiggle this thing out I Believe that's how I got it together.

I should probably just take this uh AC accumulator off. that might be easier. Kind of like saw zwing bushings out of a Nissan Infinity got it. Look at that brand new shiny Dorman valve cover.

Good job. Dorman Okay, so here's our phaser in question: This is the the next warrantable component to replace. We're going to do this the same method as the other side. I'm going to shove that little wedge down in there between these chains.

We're going to lock this cam down with some vice grips and I'm going to unbolt it, pull the unit off, and switch it out. That's the plan. So there's a cam sensor here in front of the head. Let you get in there and pluck that sensor out and throw the Fastener on the floor.

It's cool I hit the ground I didn't mean to do that. That's our sensor. Good to go. Okay, so we're not going to roll this around and set up time.

I'm going to do this the same way we did the other one. I'm going to put put a mark on the chain and that's going to line up with one of the factory marks on the phaser. If we look at the old phaser, you can see there's an L Mark right there. There's an l and an r and I'm just R referencing the L mark on this side.

so all I have to do is just mark up this L with the uh, the same mark that I put on the chain and it will maintain its ignition or valve timing. Okay, just like the other side, we're going to lock this cam in with some vice grips. you see, there's no uh, there's no Flats on this cam to get a tool, but there is a uh, a nice space right here that I can get a grip on. and I happen to have these uh, these curve jawed, uh, fairly aggressive vice grips so these will be sufficient to hold this cam in position while we take this gear off.

As long as I've got everything kind of set up properly, lock that on right there, that's tight. Okay, this is resting against this AC line which is resting against this uh battery box and if we look at the gear and I give it a pull, we can see how the inside of that gear will rotate independent of the chain itself. So that's what we're looking for. We want to lock the cam shaft in position and then have the chain and the outside portion of the gear remain uh in it in its position.

So now we can come in with the wedge tool and shove this guy down in between the uh the two sides of the chain. see if I can get this to fit properly. Space is tight. Get in there tool.

Okay I guess it's going to go on the top side this time shoving it down now. What's Happening Here is As I Push this wedge in between those two pieces of chain. It is, uh, depressing the tensioner under the cover so it's actually putting some slack into this chain. I think I can probably move it by hand now.

Yep, so there is some slack going on there. push it a little farther. Yep, that is locked into position. So now now we can take this bolt loose and remove the phaser.

Let's just see if the 90 is going to do it. 90 Milwaukee Impact It's the wrong sized socket. No, No. I got it.

It just wasn't fitting. There we go Got it. Reuser error, unclicking. Okay, okay, we're a little tight.

All right. What I need to do is pull back a little bit on um on these vice grips and then stick something in there to kind of shim it out. I think I'll just use a uh, like a blue towel. just use a towel.

I don't need much out of this. There we go. Yep, that's more loose. see right there.

Chain's still pretty tight. There it goes. See it. Go slack right there.

That's what. I what? I needed a little bit more towel. shim. Just shove it up there a little tighter.

Okay I'm feeling the chain on both sides and it does have slack. Come on baby. come off of there wle and it is free. I'm double checking my mark.

that looks good. Let's go ahead and walk the chain up off the gear. Got it? and I want to keep tension on this chain just in case it feels like going somewhere. So I'll just, uh, stick a pry bar in there just to hang on to it.

There we go. All right, we're halfway there. Okay, that's the uh old gear we just took off and new unit is wrapped up quite nicely from Ford These are: Ford OEM Parts Um, these are something you don't mess around with with aftermarket parts. If you are going to service this engine, use Ford parts every time.

Do not try to save a few bucks with these. uh, these other components. Yeah, it will. It will not work out for you in the end.

So anyway, checking these out, it's the same partner as the other side that we had a we used on the driver's side. We got the L the L Three marks. Three marks. These are the pickups for the cam gear or the cam position sensor.

So we got three tabs, two tabs. There is our Mark here and our Mark here next. I Want to check the alignment pin and that is in the correct position. So this unit does meet my visual specification analysis.

Let's get this guy back on its chain and back on the camera. All right. Coming back in, let's get a hold of the chain. I'm keeping some tension on it.

Let's see here. where's my mark right? and you guys probably can't see cuz I can barely see but I know it's there I think I've got it. Okay, marks lined up. That's good.

Let's fit this. uh, this gear back on the cam. Now we're a little off. Okay, because that pin has moved and I need to make sure that the pin is lined up exactly with the recess that is uh on the cam shaft itself.

So I need my hand back? You stay there. What I'll do here is get the bolt in so we'll start the bolt, thread that through into the cam, and what I can do with this bolt is apply just a slight bit of pressure against the cam shaft. Then I can take the vice grips and move the position of the cam until it finds that uh, recess for the pin and then it'll drop into position, threading it down, threading it down, continuing to thread it down. There we go.

Actually I'm really close I might be on it. 15 Coming in on a Qu inch. Drive Oh yeah, it's it's going right in. I got it.

That's it. It went right into position. That's beautiful little bit of torque. Let's check it, see if it's any anything's going to move and I think we're good.

Let's go ahead and pull the pull the w Edge back out, See how this is going to work out for us? here. there's the wedge tool extracted. This guy is installed. Let's get some torque on it and we get the cover back on.

Then we'll restart it again and see if it makes noise again. Okay, I need to get a little bit of pre- torque on this. Let's go ahead and hang on to the see if you can't see. I'm hanging on to those spice grips with my left hand here there.

Now you can see kind of not really applying some torques. we're pre- torqueing it before we torque torque it. There we go now. I'm going to do this.

I'm going to take some time out of the day and I'm going to apply the actual digital torque wrench here. Uh, these are usually scenes that I remove to save time and uh so I can also interject some comedic click action, but since there seems to be some new folks around that don't understand kind of the the humor here. I'm just going to appease you guys this one time. it's one time only and I'm going to apply actual torque with a digitized torquing wrench that way, you know and I know and I know that you know that we all know this gets torqued.

Okay, where are we at? We're up to 65. Let's reset here and do it again. Oh where we at 74. It's not beeping at us I wonder why we're We're being silent.

Anyway, we're at 74 looking for 89. There we go. Now we're beeping 77 a little bit more. Where' that stop? 83 We're getting there.

That's it. Rapid Beeps 89. Woo. Got it there.

So now you know that I do know how to use a torque wrench I have several of them. actually a whole drawer full of them. Oh yeah, one other thing. those are new bolts.

Phasers came with a new Bolt The people at Ford know better. They won't sell you a phaser without a bolt. Okay, it's cover time coming in I need to wipe the surface away again. There's an oil surface here or a ceiling surface for oil.

Words: And when we took the cover off, we lost all the sealant. So I need to get some more on there. This little dim size dab will do it. Little bit more down here.

There we go. Okay, now we can get our cover back in position. Okay, shiny new cover. coming back.

Let's tuck away these uh, these wire connectors here to make sure we don't get one stuck inside of the head. Very common oversight you won't notice. So you go to plug things in and then you realize you got a wire running under your valve cover. It happens.

The worst way is when you actually break a connector doing that. so ask me how I know cuz that's how I learn to make mistakes and then evaluate what I've done Okay covers back on. Let's get a little bit of turning action on those studs to secure this in place. Do the one in the top in the center.

Okay, now I'm just going to do a recheck for wires. make sure nobody's stuff inside of the valve cover and we're looking good, nobody's there. Let's go through and tighten these units up. Excellent.

Okay, valve cover is back on now. it's just miscellaneous pieces and uh, we'll be able to get to the restart real quick here. Let's get the coils in next. Okay, back to front, drop them down like line up the bolt, get it started, and then we'll come through at the end and apply some.

Tores Hey, don't feel bad Dave Found 35 lbs of air in my tires. 35 35 65 Yeah, yeah, mine was at 17. Yeah, we're we're horrible. Everybody else's stuff gets fixed besides ours we maintained.

But yeah, you all know how air pressure is. Nobody pays attention to air pressure. Back in the days of shop class that was ingrained in our culture and now it's We got those little lights that tell us. so we lost interest and no longer participate in the uh, the maintaining of our daily driving piece of Hardware come out harness.

Yeah, this is where we start really running out of space. Here we go back. Coil There we are. There's the coil, injector coil and the bracket for the harness.

Keep it all located nice and neat. Injector coil again, bracket, again, injector again see that one. Cam phaser, solenoid. This one goes over right here.

Good Good good. It's coming along quite nicely. This one goes up to the Uh throttle body little PCV hose that can go back. yeah, this happened fast.

Uhoh what have I done there? and oh I have it backwards. it's Bass award. that's what we're doing. flip it around, tug it in there.

Then right down below us we got the cam shaft position sensor which I have failed to reinstall. Let's get that guy back in. It's going to be kind of hard to be hard to run the cams with no sensors to tell the ACM where the cams are. that's sensor plugged in.

There's the Fastener that I dropped earlier. where's the little bolt hole? Whole thing down there good. Can position sensor connector right here that goes there. that's all good and got the little circular one this guy plugs in right here on this uh harness.

Excellent! Okay, so now we need the Uh ECM bracket and then we'll put the ECM back on uh to three bolts. So when we're done here, we're obviously going to restart this and check for noise. Um, first start's going to give us some noise because that phaser needs to get oil pressure to it and unfortunately because of the fact that this thing has already started today, it may not make that cold start rattle, but we'll check it. If it doesn't rattle then uh well.

I'll have to do a followup on another cold start to, uh, confirm that the rattle is no longer there and you know I could be wrong. but I'm I'm not of the opinion that it's a phaser issue again, or it could be a phaser issue. but I believe it would have been caused by an oiling issue because I think that some of that packing material was ingested by the engine and it may have been consumed by the engine and is no longer relevant to the situation at hand. But that doesn't mean it didn't cause damage while it was in there floating around and the filter might have caught it and the filter might not have caught it.

We? we don't know I didn't tear the engine apart to find out. Uh, one more. This one goes on this side over here. This one comes from around back right there.

primary harness connected there. Good good, good. That's all back together. Let's get the battery back on right there battery.

Click it. that's tight. Recap: That's on. That's on.

That's on. that's on this. went on this side. injectors, coils, valve cover time.

All I need to do now is uh get this uh H back line back together and I shouldn't have done that I need this to go through there but I can't cuz this is plugged in her shair. Okay AC line that's that's back on. Put that back on. Okay, let's get this thing restarted Okie does all right.

We are about to uh have the Moment of Truth starting the engine all right Dave shut her down okay I didn't hear it I did not hear the clanky Ticky noise I actually expected to hear it out of this side just because that was a dry start phaser. Um I'm going to let this sit overnight I'm going to come back tomorrow. We're going to check it again and it see what happens the second time around. So having said all that guys I Think we're all done with this particular video? Let me know what you think about this situation in the comment section down below.

Do Not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day. See you guys later! Keep a look out for the followup video on this noise. Uh, fingers crossed. We hope it does not do it because I would really like to call this Good Fix that manifold and then send this thing back to where it belongs.