Come along as I have a look at a customers 2015 Ford F-150 that came in with the entire bank 2 of the engine misfiring and the truck would barley stay running. It ends up being a no parts required fix.
-Enjoy!
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Well, we do so much. Chevy hates time to hate on some Fords 15 F-150 a truck that builds America at least that's what they tell me. 114 650 kilometers. She's a metric version.
Uh, let's see here. The guy tells me it's got a misfire and it certainly does because it's shaking the whole truck. Oh, and installed. Come on.
get a little guy. You can do it. Foreign. Feels like we got more than one misfire and get it inside.
Wow. Say one thing, this thing wasn't Chevy it wouldn't be doing this. I'm getting it right. All right.
let's see here we're gonna go through first thing first. see what code. It runs very, very poorly. It doesn't like to stay running.
Turn these headlights off. I'm going to let it go through. uh do a system scan. it's got the big 5-0 and we're going to see uh, if it gives us some direction here, it should I Hope it's done.
scan looking like nine codes there in the PCM and something and effect them. So let's go Uh to report. let me scroll down through here: Cylinder Misfire on Five, Six, Seven and eight Engine misfire and detected on Startup We have an ignition primary coil E circuit open so that's interesting. Camshaft B Position Timing over oh, Camshaft position correlation Bank Two Sensor B Uh oh.
We're looking at some cam timing issues and then the front control interface module is the HVAC stuff. All right. so this is interesting. Um Bank two is going to be cylinder Five, Six, Seven and eight.
Uh-huh So so buttons on underwear Um, camshaft timing over? that's if that is accurate. When your Camp shaft timing falls behind it usually you know is so it's either Advanced or it's it's either you know Heather behind and typically if your cam timing is Advanced it usually means somebody was in there with their fingers. rarely kind of engine, you know Advance its own cam timing. Usually they fall behind.
so if these codes are correct, we're probably looking at some sort of uh, you know, cam timing issue started it For the heck of it. look at actual cam timing. We can see right here. actual exhaust cam B position 56 degrees We're a long ways off from where we want to be there, folks.
you can see how Bank One you know actual uh cam position for the intake and then we look at the exhaust on Bank two and it's way the heck off there. So I'm gonna have to look to what these code Tech criterias are. You know, because we are running according to the you know the difference Here you know 50 degrees from where it wants to be uh, you know, commanded versus actual? So this is pretty interesting. Is it a straight mechanical fault or can this be? you know, uh, fall of and actually are being stuck open.
So here's what she looks like under the hood. Now these I believe are the I don't work on a lot of forts, but these are the the phasers I believe that change or the solenoids that activate the cam phaser on the end of the camshaft. there two on each bank so it didn't take an exhaust and I don't know the chain configuration of these engines I assume it's you know, one chain per bank or perhaps just one big chain. The part that's interesting is when we looked at scan data, it only showed the exhaust Bank as being off. Um, oh, which one is Pink let's do that one over there, it's Bank two. This one looks like it's a little further ahead. so um, you know I would think if the whole chain had jumped, our intake would also be off and the fact that it's off 50 degrees? um, you know I'm really suspicious of one of the solenoids being stuck open. or I suppose the other thing if you know with the solenoid's not stuck open mechanically, you know it allowed oil control.
That's why I got I'm gonna do some reading to see. you know if the advanced, the exhaust or how the whole system works. Uh, the other thing you know because the cam phaser itself on the end of the camshaft I imagine could be you know, broken. Uh, and you know fully because the way the engine spins if the lock pintles out of it and it has the ability to the timing, I could assume that you know it's pegged all the way against the back.
so those are my thoughts. Let me do some poking. Well Service Data isn't really much health Ford Service today. That really leaves a lot to be desired.
It's such a wow robot type service. stayed out engineering flow charts just you know. Check every wire and not a lot of use. Useful code: Tech criteria information in there usually.
So we're going to make up our own test. Uh, this is bank one the passenger side and this is the size that does not have an issue. So again, this side isn't broke. Let's just gather some data here and see what we can figure out on our own.
What we're gonna do is can we hear these solenoids audiably click? You know? and can we get a uh, you know, known good resistance value. Although we don't have any circuit codes, this is something worthy to know. So we're gonna use our Power Probe here. I'm gonna go down to feed test that should give us a resistance value I'm expecting these to be quite low, you know, 14 12 Something like that.
7.8 Let's turn this off and this one here, which is probably the exhaust is zero. Can I touch my own meter 8.0 Let it steady out here. Yeah, 7.9 Ohms on that one and we're looking. 7.8 Ohms on this one.
now. What I want to know is do they click? So we're going to go back to Pulse DC Shouldn't matter which way we click them, Let me actually let me turn off that furnace folks stand by just because I don't know how loud or quiet they will be some Pi power that one we hear clicking, no problem applying power and that one we hear clicking. so they're pretty noisy so that's good and we know they're approximately eight. Ohms and this is the side that functions.
Let's plug these back in. Let's go to the other side. This is the one we're suspicious of I Believe this is the exhaust one here. it should be. It's closest to the exhaust cam. Okay, it's unplugged here. That one's already got that. and there's that one.
Let's see. I should just pull this air cleaner air cleaner that's kind of in our way here. We're going to do our feed test first. We're gonna see what the resistance value is.
You know you guys can't see it? Well read the numbers off to you if I can see them. So on the intake 7.8 and on the exhaust 7.8 so they're both 7.8 we're gonna go to the bolts DC apply power to it I'm going to tap it with the ground so we hear that one clicking and we also hear that one click. so that's interesting I Tell you what, Let's start it up and we'll do this momentarily to watch it on the scan tools. Do we see the intake? You know? quickly? Advance? Yeah, yeah.
What else we got to do it. Just started it up. and now what exhaust cam position Bank One Bank Two Of course we've got. we're just gonna.
We're gonna have some circuit faults here because I left them unplugged area here. So exhaust? uh, timing variable can timing back to exhaust intake because like we have my plug because that thing just physically stuck and all we did is jiggle it because this is the problem we're having before now we're only 0.18 degrees difference. Let's go down here: Uh, desired minus actual bank two for intake and find desired minus axle for exhaust um desired. Uh, let's see: exhaust bead Camshaft Desire Mice actual or spot on The money now.
I Do have them unplugged I'm going to plug it in to see if there's a circuit code. It still looks like it's running a little rough, but clearly the cam timing is back on. I'm gonna punch back in. Nothing really changed.
Let me shut it off and stir it back up here. Just like that, we fixed it so that's interesting. All we did it is. you know, kick that solenoid on and off.
makes you wonder if I had some stuff in it. That's kind of silly. Let's check the oil on this thing. I Got her back to Miles We're at 71 000.
according to the oil change sticker, it's due at 70. You know, 400. so it's not way overdue for an oil change. Um, you know, not as bad as most.
Of course you know how many miles was. Uh, put on that and they only used 520 conventional. So it's probably a 3 000 mile sticker and he's got you know, four something on it. Let's go check the oil.
uh, you know, on the dipstick? foreign, possibly a you know, stuck solenoid. We're always worried about oil condition and that's what's so important. I Admiring big engines is you know they have all these stupid extended oil change intervals and you know we? I've never seen so many cam timing problems as we do. You know nowadays? so it is full.
It's not jet black, which is great. you know, not that color is the only indicator, but it doesn't look. you know, overly dark and it is full. So perhaps that solenoid was just stuck mechanically. Um, this is interesting here. It says it wasn't detecting a misfire. Yeah. I Thought it was running.
still a little bit rough and there's our coil circuit code that we have. We've been set up latch in there. Well, that's in there little guy. I'll set you guys down for a second.
I Think perhaps the misfire counter just wasn't uh enabled at this point. So it's perhaps that's why it missed it. see if anything looks oh, the end of the tab. the tab that locks it on is broke off.
Okay, well see if we can't get it on there. Forgot to throw a zip tie around or something just to keep it on there until the connector gets replaced to be our best bet. Yeah, that's part of this back up. She didn't want my gut known that it was just running rough.
Power Balance Chart up here. All right, everybody's running smooth. Now if it wasn't we'd have a big drop out here. Okay, enable it.
So in the fire that was the one that was unplugged, we just saved list. We can see the misfires shows up there on the side. So so I guess that's it for now. When we look at scan data, we can actually move.
You know the camshaft. so we should be able to here. so we have a variable can Timing: exhaust angle desire. Okay, so right now is desired at zero.
same thing data pin here: actual timing values right here and then the difference between commanded versus actual amount here. So these these two should always stay at or near zero or very close to zero and then obviously the desired and the actual should also match would be very close. The differential will be displayed down here, so if we increase it, you know we want to. Bumper Up here.
we're advancing it for a 6.87 degrees and you can see the differential between commanded versus actual darn near zero. What this is doing is turning the exhaust solenoids on. As soon as that, we were messing with just advancing our camps down. We can only go so far here, but we can see exercising these solenoids.
We look at our differential here right where it needs to be. The only thing I can attribute this to is there something mechanically stopped in this film right here because we didn't do the test with the engine running. Therefore, you know there's nothing in that favor. It just makes me wonder when it's energized or stuck? Can it recode? Because I need as well as advances? So I want to make sure that I'm not crazy.
What we see was actually plausible and I believe it is. And I finally digging through here. Uh in service data for this Ford I did find the theory and operation on the canceling because I wanted to know can it be stuck and actually uh, the cam timing. It says here when the variable control timing solenoid is energized or engine oil is allowed to flow to the variable can timing actuator assembly which is advances or retards to camshaft timing, one half of the variable cam timing actuator is coupled to the camshaft and the other is connected to the timing chain. Oh okay, this is uh, this is on the end of the camshaft we're speaking about that your your cam gear. you know obviously one's hooked to the when it happens, hooked to the can. the other half's hook the timing chain now so this allows that rotation oil Chambers between the two halves couple the camshaft to the chain. When the flow of oil is shifted from one side of the chamber to the other, the differential change in oil pressure forces the cam to rotate in either an advanced or position depending on the oil flow.
and um, so what they're referring to is the variable cam ing solenoid or the variable can timing actuator is you know it's the cam phaser on the end of the camshaft and then the solenoid is the solenoid that we were playing with. So I guess with all that being said, it is plausible that that it can in advance. So because doing that test on a scan tool I wasn't sure you know, are we just advancing it a little bit? It didn't seem clearer. Then, the numbers weren't negative, so I knew it wasn't I Don't think it's retargeting it.
but I think we're pretty well done here and at least now we have some information. We can tell the customer and what I'm going to tell the customer is exactly what we did that you know we actually activated these uh, solenoids and it more than likely was physically stuck. Whether it's binding in its own bore or was stuck, you know, with a piece of whatever you know. Carbon Whatever kind of junk gets in there I Say uh, we're going to be best served to go drive the vehicle, get that solenoid hot, let it activate under normal conditions, and see if it sticks again for us if it doesn't at that point.
I Would say you know to do for an oil change, you know, replace the oil filter obviously and then you know go from there and see if it acts up again. If it were to act up again, it was my truck. I would replace the solenoid just to be on the safe side. A lot of people in the comments are writing that you know you need to do oil flush.
You need to fill it full of transmission fluid, fill a full diesel oil or diesel fuel, and then drive it and drain it and seafoam and all that stuff. I'm not a big fan of oil flushes I've never seen anything really good come from it other than you know you need a new engine and ta-da we flushed it. so that's that's that. Not a big fan of oil flush.
The customers want to do that on their own, you know, go for it nothing. I really want to take responsibility up here in the shop as far as putting you know, filling a full marvelous Mr oil and seafoam and WD-40 and then running it and draining it. Not a big fan of that. So anyway, let's go for a rip and data here.
the ones that's in the line graph there that's desired minus actual. That's the one we want to see. A pretty steady line there. you'll see little blips on it and that's where I was rubbing up on the parking lot. It takes a minute for it to steady out, but we can see our top data pits about 30 degrees of cam timing there. Advanced on both exhaust cams, differential between them is zero, so that's good. So what's kind of curious or what one thing I think about is if there was something physically stuck there and all we had to do is click it open and close a few times Why didn't it resolve itself? When he was driving, it was clearly it's you know, activating the solenoids you know, a much higher rate than our couple clicks we gave it and my assumption is is once it sets that code for being you know, overly on the exhaust cam I Assume it shuts that Solen light off and doesn't activate it. That's just my guess, but that would be kind of a self-preservation system.
Uh, you know, built into the algorithm that way you know it can't crash itself. Uh, you know I mean let's say the camp timing physically you know, was moved and it's running at 50 degrees entire end and now all of a sudden you kick the actuator and then it goes more well now your pistons and your valves. They have a little issue with each other, so I can only assume that that's the case and that's why my job itself. so I just pulled over here I mean everything looks great.
It looks like it's functioning fine. Take it. I Guess we can shut it off I Don't think it's gonna make much difference here. I'll probably do this back in the shop here.
We'll shut it off. let it sit for a while heat soak, just to see if it does anything funny. You know when we start it if it sticks. but I guess at this point we've already discussed everything we need to discuss.
except for that one discussion where I tell you to go in that comment section. Let me know what you guys think. Perhaps you'd seen this. Seen this before on Chrysler Products and General Motor Spikes and a lot of other products that have variable cam timing having the solenoid stick.
Usually when they're stick, they're stuck for permanently. You know we click them a few times and there's no clicking or they're just stuck in their board. But a little different situation here. I'm gonna see what the customer wants to do.
Perhaps he wants to just replace the solenoids on that bank. I Don't know. or maybe he just wants to drive. It's pretty low mileage.
Maybe he wants to drive it and see if it was a fluke and if it happens again, then we'll get after it. I Don't know, get after your comment questions concerns. NC Facebook Industrial Viewers If I can do it, you can do it. Thanks for watching foreign.
I would love for someone to take the sound bites from this video and make them into a song about being retarded.
Good stuff. I have the same engine in my 2018 F150. It has similar mileage. Good to know if this ever happens to my truck. Thanks brah, lol. Take care, B
Hey Eric, this doesn’t have anything to do with this ford, but I just wanted to thank you. My 2010 Silverado had a P0449, tank vent valve solenoid open circuit, I used what I learned from watching your channel that the solenoid is bad. Checked power and ground at the solenoid when switching on with scan tool, all was good. So I am replacing solenoid.
I’ve seen oil flushes using diesel extend the life of engines, but it’s always communicated as a bandaid for a poor condition engine, and not as a repair.
In this case if it aligns with the customers risk tolerance I’d swap the exhaust solenoids bank to bank, do the oil change and ship it. If it comes back with the codes swapped banks, you know it’s a solenoid, if it doesn’t, it’s probably something mechanically timing related. I’ve seen the secondary chain guide fall apart and I’ve also seen the phasers intermittently die.
excellent video E.O!!
If you drive a Ford product do Not neglect the oil change interval! And don't put on a crap quality oil filter!
i think most of the phasers' are made with tight tolerances. so down the road there can be issues from oil or lack of oil changes. keeping oil to OE spec and cleaning phasers with scan tool will keep cams in check. but over time a build up
of dirt/sludges will kill the phasers no matter what!!!!!!!!
Well if this was my truck, I'd do an inspection of all solenoids, remove them , clean and reinstall. IF – if varnish is stating to be a problem as it was on my 2008 Super Duty then add the WD40 up to 2 cap fulls allow that to work its way throughout the engine then let heat soak and then if it corrected it self leave it be and let the WD work with the oil and change it after 7 days. Those roller Followers sounded pretty noisy to – I'd go to a thicker oil of 10W30 to test the clearances – if there was any change in being quieter then the damage is starting to show it's ugly head…
Always amazes me how people cheap out on maintenance. Conventional oil has no place in a modern vehicle, I don’t even put it in my lawn mower. You can get 10qts of full synthetic for around $35 at Costco.
What would one charge for something like this? Pro demand gives labor times for certain jobs. But not for diagnosing time. How do you go about charging for diagnosing?
If it were mine I’d want to drive it and see if the problem reoccurs. I haven’t owned a Ford since 1982- 83. It was a 78 F-150 4×4. Good truck even at 130,000 miles.
I have also found on multiple occasions that buzzing vvt solenoids with the power probe can sometimes unstick them
If you need info on these modern Fords, hit up Brian at BSG Automotive, aka fordtechmakuloko here on YouTube. He's well versed in these issues.
I had to laugh, your comments about the cam phaser being broken reminded of of a couple of managers at our shop – “Broken and fully retarded” 🤣
Edit: Sell him an oil change and maybe that solenoid and be done with it.
What scan tool were you using ?
Is it possible the wire for the cam solenoid is lower then the voltage by your in putted by your testing device which clear the problem
Nice. Thanks.
It will stick again. Leaving the choice to the customer is good I suppose, but it's a thing on the Ford Coyote you'll be seeing a lot more of.
Hello from way up North in the PRNY. In your humble opinion, which manufacturer has the best factory service data? Just curious. Thanks for all you do and for giving us hope that honest mechanics still exist.
make me wonder how many times a vvt solenoid has been changed cause it got stuck and the mec didnt do what you did 🤔
Good common sense approach to solving the problem !
I owned an ‘08 version of this , never kept it long enough to see any issues other then it was a noisy engine right from the box. Always changed oil at 5000 kilometres , got rid of it about 65,000 kilometres .What my experience with misfires tho is a customer had the same Ford but was near 200,000 kilometres. He never would have issue if our shop serviced it but if we were busy he head to the quick lube. He was anal getting it done when he was due and couldn’t wait a few days to book it with us. Then what usually would happen is in a couple days , less than 500 kilometres from the quick lube change he would get mis-fires . He would come to us , we change the quick lube oil with our bulk 5W30 and mis-fire would go away , clear code then send him off for another 8,000 kilometres
Do you not see as many Fords because they break less often, or because people in your area buy GM?
3000mile service interval?? i have a 40000km interval, thats 25000mls. with 600000km still no issues
maybe the 12v is higher volts than the computer
Motor still sounds like a diesel to me, but it's definitely running much better! Great video brother
Eric starting to get newer vehicles to work on lately.
Thanks for sharing, it looks like there's not much more that you can do as you documented it now working and not failing. I have also noticed that you sometimes (rarely) can free up the phasers/cam gears while continuously manually switching on and off the solenoid and sending oil to the phaser while the engine is running and there is the slight chance that it too can free up and start phasing correctly like how your situation did here on the f150. Other than that, if it doesn't work, then obviously internal work is needed. Thank you for sharing once again and glad yours got operating correctly!👍👍
Love your videos and I work at ford and the phasers and anything that has to do with the cam is absolutely terrible on the 5.0 we replace multiple vehicles phasers a day it's a shame
Hey Eric did you see autotechmikes kilmer roast? 😂 I tried to tag you but it didn't work. It's a short but check it out
Boy I lean a lot from your videos. What model Autel scanner do you use and who makes the power probe you use? Thanks.
interested to see how long that 12v hammer fix lasts …please follow this one up
Mr. O… You are great at explaining what you think is going on. Hard to figure out what really is happening when it does start working correctly.
Oh Na Na if you can do it, I can screw it up. Without people like you people like me would be walking. Love your videos
we dont say retarded now, its special needs lol
alot of time those solenoids will stick if customer has not been changing oil on the regular , and low oil conditions will cause them to stick, you can also activate solenoids while running and it will clear out the debris , but it is common for the solenoids to fail , same on the 5.4l 2v and 3v engines , … highly recommend 5w30 full synthetic oil on the coyote engine to help it live a long happy life and 5k service intervals , i work on them alot and own a 16 f150 with a coyote ,,, great engine and truck !!!!
So few Ford’s get fixed at SMA. Guess because Ford makes the most reliable vehicles 😂
As others have said, those cam phaser solenoids are famously weak and prone to breakage. Not sure if true in the 5.0, but in the 4.6, the cam phasers are at the "end of the line" of the pressurized oil system, so they seem to suffer from gunk accumulation and acute sensitivity to low oil pressure. Replacing the solenoids MAY help, but if there's a worn main, rod, or cam bearing somewhere it can drop the system oil pressure which can also cause cam phaser problems.
What Charles said.
Hating on Fords? 😔😑
No one hates Ford more than I do
The problem started with the disconnected coil wire. I noticed it right away when you were checking the bank 2 solenoids. Recommend replacing connector and fire the idiot who broke it. Very cold start with open to coil will drive variable timing insane and trip the code.
If it were my car I would replace it either way.
Capt Kirk adjusting phasers to stun. Ditch that Ford. Cam phasers- bad idea.
Great video man
Worked at for ford 4 yrs as an engine tech , solenoids fail a lot , main chains stretch if they miss oil changes a lot , and if they run low oil like never check their oil then
Cams snap internally within the phaser
I've pulled a lot of front covers and chains and the cams just rotate when you grab them unable to lock ,usually you get the cold soak startup death rattle with it , then you know your pulling a front cover and chain ⛓️ 😉
And not just a valve cover and or intake
So much can go wrong when there is electrical running everything
At least it's not the 3.5
Flushes may be a bad idea but I have seen additives clean solenoids, lifters etc and stop problems, the customer needs to perform oil changes more often. A lot of these newer engines require a different additive package oil than the 30 dollar oil change specials use and it effects mpg and trash build up esp with extended oil change intervals. I have seen 5mpg improvement after a simple oil change using the correctly rated oil. Remember manufacturers suggested maint is to get you out of warranty not to keep your stuff running forever.
Wow, people still use Seafoam?? That stuff is great for "older" 2 stroke boat engines as I understood it?? If I'm wrong, please let me know. Btw, love how detailed your videos are. What kind of scan tool was that?
I have a 2017 F150 with the 5.0 and it makes the same 'clattering' sound under the hood at idle, since new. The sound isn't really all that noticeable from inside the cab. Now at 170,000 miles and it hasn't gotten any worse (or better), so I will assume that is just the way these Coyote V8s sound under the hood when idling, especially shortly after being started.
My dad grew up in stp era and he always said. Flushing your oil just breaks up everything and causes larger problems
👍
Keep the oil changes frequent. Every 4000 miles or 6 months which ever comes first.. OIL IS CHEAP, ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE!
USE A GOOD REPUTABLE OIL. I use Mobil 1. Just my personal preference.
Good one Eric. Hope this vehicle keeps going well now.
Every Ford truck needs a Coyote.
When you manipulated the solenoids without the engine running, there was no oil pressure to dampen the action. While running, they don't get jostled quite that hard.
Could have been the connector to the solenoid, a wiggle test with engine running rough and before the resistance test and direct current application would have narrowed the stuck solenoid explanation. Was either stuck physically or failed circuit voltage. My 2 cents.
I dislike the new for door dinger!
is that scanner the Autel MaxiSYS MS906 Pro?
I see the problem the oil cap is upside down 🤷🏻♂️
My oil gets changed every 4000 miles plus or minus 250. The only time I have ever done an oil flush is an old motor that has been setting around for a long time.
And the Dealer service dept would say
"Your solenoids need replacing ,all 4 ,that will fix the issue 😆
My check engine light came on on my F150 for the first time at 96k. 2011 with the 3,5 liter eco-boost engine. It was running great but I carried it in to my mechanic to see what was up. He kept it a couple of days and called me and said( actual conversation) him: I think I know what the main problem is but I can’t open the codes to make sure. Me: what is it, you think? Him: I’m pretty sure it’s the turbo censors but with out knowing for sure, I’m not going to repair it and then that not be the problem. Me: what do you suggest? Him: take it to the dealer. They can open these codes quickly and see the problem. Me: you know how I feel about dealers working in my vehicles. Regardless of what they find out, it’s a trip to the poor house. Him: I know, I know and I hate dealing with Ford myself when it comes to repair. If you call them they will tell you what the codes are saying for a fee. A healthy fee at that. Me: ok, I’ll come get it. So I went and picked it up and carried it to the dealer. The next day they called and confirmed what my mechanic had told me, turbo censors. 1400$ price tag for repair oh and it needed a tune up. I told them I couldn’t afford it and carried it back to my man. He fixed it and updated it. With the tune up. Price tag, $631. I said all that to ask you this question, Have you heard of mechanics having to pay a fee for code help from Ford? Just curious because the truck is running great now.
I had this issue on a Toyota Avalon that I had. I replaced the variable valve timing solenoid and it fixed the issue. The car ran great after that.
You can't say that word haha
Another fine diagnosis. I love that you truly take the time and research to come up with an plausible reason for problems instead of loading the parts cannon.
Another possibility could be an electrical connection on the plug having high resistance till you removed and refitted the plug and make a good electrical connection? Just a thought. With these modern crapboxes, if a particular code enables, it may disable certain system functions until you clear the code? i.e. it had a glitch and triggered the code, and if the glitch had cleared, simply clearing the codes may have restored the engine?
Fords need high quality oil and clean oil !
Chevy wont do it 🤣
Hiya Eric
If it were my truck, we’ll I’d sooner have a donkey, they’re more reliable, no disrespect to the owner , I’ve just had nothing but really bad luck with the six furd’s I’ve bought.
Your obviously doing flushes incorrectly. You must use unicorn tears for proper engine restoration. Good day sir.
Exacly what I would do I wouldn't replace a good part that might have been gummed up but would replace all the solenoids(with OEM) if it happens again
You saved your customer money!!!
Subaru actually sells an engine oil flush product and also a trans cooler flush product…. used them multiple times when I was Subaru tech. Never had negative results. They way we did it was do an oil and filter change and add the flush and let the engine run for half an hour then do another oil change and send it👨🔧👨🔧
You are a great mechanic Eric.
Love your videos. Question, what trucks do you think are the best? Toyota?
I hope Ford Boss Me watches this one
aint nothing built after 2006 is worth a damn…..except some later model Toyotas…..LOL
Gremlins.
I’m a Ford tech
Ford recommends in pinpoint test hk12 cycle on and off 20 times to dislodge any debris you were right on the money
those VVT solenoids can be cleaned with brake cleaner and a 12v jumper wires to a battery, its a recommended cleaning process. they are not PWM controlled as they only have two leads, not three. oil change and replace the VVT solenoid even if it does react to 12v. its a shitty system if you ask me!!!!
Still sounds like a bucket of bolts
Eric O finally gets a Ford in and it fixes itself. I know what I'm buying next!
Dear Customer, CHANGE THE OIL AND USE 100 SYN, change oil in 5000 miles, REPEAT !!!
I heard that solenoid loosen up on camera when you energized it.
Sounds like a 225 slant 6
I must have my volume too high because that thing sounds like a Bloody Diseasel to me! 🤔
The 5.0 or the 5.Slow 😂☝️
Change the oil, cross your fingers
Had one sporadically stick on my toyota 2gr-fe just replaced
I have a couple of Jaguar diesels. If you believe the internet, I don't need to add diesel to the oil to flush the engine, it does it on its own! Though I don't really do much in the way of short journeys in them.
When you say conventional oil do you mean purely mineral based IE the most basic concoction available? Might be a dumb question I apologise but most every oil you will buy here now (UK) is at least synthetic based particularly something like a 5w20 would actually be fairly niche and expensive. An old 20w50 excused….The 5w30 my wife's nissan takes for example you simply cannot buy a 'mineral' oil in that grade and even a nice ester based oil for it is only £20 for 5 litres.
Where do you get the trouble light you use from?
That pig needs a set of tires
I used to own a Ford F150. It should still be on the side of the road..
BTW, your speech is getting much better. You're still the best, most professional mechanic on YouTube!
I wonder if the misfire, due to the coil being unplugged, caused the PCM to retard the cam timing. When you actuated the phasers with the engine off, they probably clicked in to the pin in their default position. You restarted it while the phasers were locked, noticed the misfire before the PCM retarded the cam; restored the coil connection and solved the problem. I'd would have been interested to see the generic OBD 2 data before the fix, as well as the sensor data from the PICO Scope beforehand. However the issue still remains about using quality oil and not exceeding oil change intervals. I'm old school and was taught by my father and his friends to not go more than 2000 or 2500 miles between oil changes on conventional oil.
DO NOT FLUSH. You're being set up to buy an engine for a negligent customer!
Hi mr o😂another 👍detailed quality vid👍
If u have time could u let me know what model of Autel tool your using in this diag
Many thanks
Paul😊