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Hi everybody, Good day to you! Welcome back! That is the 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche 5.3 liter four-wheel drive customer States engine oil leak. So we're gonna go and swing this in. Get it up onto the lift, see what's up with the leaking lubricant. We'll go from there.

What we have here on the odometer, it looks like 117 788 miles. Not bad. All right. let's go ahead and get this thing in the shop on the lift and uh, let's get going back up.

Cameras can be useful. They don't tell you where your fenders are though, so you still got to use your mirrors. Swing this thing around that corner and back onto our big lid. I Think the oil pan is leaking.

That's very, very super common on these things. So uh, let's get this thing uh, up in the air and verify such things. I'm backing up. the alarm says we're there sparkling.

Seattle Tiring down, let's hop out popping Z-poid We'll set the rack, lift it up, take a look see Lou and see what's going on here. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video. Okie Dokes The rack is set. moving on up.

green subscribe button. We're Avalanche going up all the way up. Hang on. come on.

come down there. We go safe. You should see your face. look at it.

Does that look scary? Yeah, all right. see you later. Bye okey-dokes coming down below. Yeah, we can see some oil dripping here.

There's a drip from the trans inspection cover. There's a drip. There's a drip. There's another one up there.

Now on these. GM LS engines. This oil filter, hose, manifold right here has a nasty habit of leaking those leak a lot. Uh, the rear cover slash rear main seal likes to leak a lot and it's very hard to decipher whether it's the uh, the rear seal this thing or the oil pan.

Now what I use to determine if it's the pan or not is do I see any other oil around the perimeter of the pan? And we really do not. With the exception of like up here a little bit. let's go ahead and pop this inspection cover off and see if we can't look inside. All right.

So here let's see how we're gonna do this. We're just gonna pop a screwdriver this little cover off cover gravity. All right. let's take a peek inside of there real quick.

see what we got. Hmm I won't really see much going on here. It's not a very good inspection cover. Ah, there we go I can see some.

It might be too much light for you guys to see, but I see oil right back there above the cover. I'm uh I'm wondering and I'm believing that it's not the oil pan gasket that's doing this leak here. I believe it's the uh, the rear cover that encompasses the rear crankshaft seal. It may not be the seal and the crank that's leaking, but the cover has a perimeter gasket that goes around it and I think that's what's leaking happening Z Hood Moving back up the locks, you gotta go ahead and disconnect the battery.

We're gonna need to pull the starter on this because we are pulling the transmission out all right. So in order to get this transmission out before we do any kind of unbolting or anything like that, we need to get the torque converter bolts unbolted from the flex plate. Now, we can't do that because there's a transmission in the way and an engine in the way. So we're going to pull the starter out and then go in where the starter is at and get a hold of those bolts in order to remove them.
unclick slab noises. Pull that guy out. Whoa. Bolt gravity I Almost caught it.

There we go. All right. I'm just gonna reach in and kind of pull this starter out of there and we'll move that forward and just kind of get that thing out of the way. We don't need this little cover.

Put that aside, I Just need to create enough space here to get a hold of the uh, the torque converter bolts. And I think you can see one right here? Yep, there's one right there. So what we need to do is get a tool on the front of the crankshaft, rotate this engine around until this bolt is accessible with a tool, and then we can pull the thing off and then continue to get the other two. I think there's only three on this engine.

Okay, so I got a 24 mil socket. a lot of ratchet reaching up to the crankshaft bolt in the front and I'm going to rotate this engine around so we can get a hold of a that torque converter bolt I went too far. Let's go back. See right? Actually, it was kind of right where it needed to be.

Yeah, it's gonna have to be right there. All right. So this is always a very, very tight squeeze to get this done so you guys start running out of room to see. I apologize I can't do anything about it.

So I got a ratchet on the torque converter Bolt One hand's operating that and the other hand is off to the right holding the crankshaft in position and we're just going to unclick. I think it turned and I get it. The starters. Ah, it's in the way.

Hang on, Hang on this. This ain't working there. Stay up there starter. Okay, let's try that again.

and we just worked that torque converter Bolt until it's out, then we'll switch over to the next one. Real quick idea. We're going to neutral drop the electric ratchet see if this will work. Surprise that 3, 8, 1 or the quarter inch one did it.

Come here. Starter fell. again. There we go.

and I'll rotate this engine around another 33.3333333 degrees until we find that. Uh, Second Bolt Uh, there it is. I See you all right? Okay, same procedure. Push the starter out of the way.

Hope doesn't fall. Take the ratchet in there on the bolt. let's get a bite and get them gravity. I Dropped my ratchet, got my crankshaft ratchet.

It's okay. All right again. I'm holding the crankshaft with the other hand and unclick. There we go.

Nice. Come on. Quarter inch ratchet. don't fail me now.

Tools make things easier. Do not lose. torque converter bolts All right. One more time rotating the engine.
33.33333 degrees and I'm looking for that bolt to come around there. it is. Get her right up at the top right there. Perfect.

one more time. Ah, there we go. Okay, holding the crank unpick there. It is foreign.

all right. So the torque converter should be free the way you can tell as you reach up and kind of reach behind the uh, the flex plate and if you can turn it should turn very easily. which I can That tells me it's uh, completely unbolted now. All right.

next on my list. I need to get this exhaust removed. So we've got. We've got a clamp here with a well, a broken clamp and up front it's one y-pipe assembly.

so I've got to pull both of these cats out. We've got a couple bolts on that flange up. There is one bolt that is hiding behind an O2 sensor. so I need to pull that sensor and then on this side, one, two, three more bolts.

So we're gonna need an extension, the swivel probably a torch, uh, and some penetrating lubricant. Yeah, that's uh. well. yeah, all right.

time for some lubrication here. So uh, all we're gonna do here is spray all this stuff down and let it soak for a while and then, uh, maybe tomorrow. I'll come back and try to crack these loose. Let's check or try this.

Uh, over here on this other side. long range lubrication missed and the other side. All right. let's let that soak for a while.

All right, let's go ahead and work on this front drive shaft. Look at this guy out I Believe that's not an eight millimeter like I just had about an 11. we'll pull the straps off the uh, the U-joint caps and then slide this shaft out. Set that aside, we'll rotate the shaft around.

the rust falling in my face a little more. right there. Okay, all right, let's spin this around a little bit more and we'll get behind it with some pry bar and just pop that guy right off the yoke, push it back and let it down some. you know what? I think I'm actually gonna have to pull uh, this sway bar down? Yeah.

I don't think I can get the drive shaft down without losing the sway bar. That's a 10, not an eleven? Yeah. let's try again. Nope, let's try the bigger impact.

Not cool. Okay, so my can of uh, penetrating spray is going to be pretty useful on this truck. Foreign, work it back and forth. Crusty.

Seriously? Uh. Lubricant? got it? Okay, let's see. let's pull. Uh, pull that guy down because it's just gonna fall later and we'll move to the right and get that other side.

apparently. Uh, lubrication is a requirement here. Penetrating lubrication dripping everywhere. Foreign.

Actually. I'm just going to get bigger. 3 8 Ratchet Impact ratchet. Nope.

Seriously. Okay. escalation. How about a 10 millimeter half inch drive on an impact? It's either going to snap the bolts off or they're going to come out foreign.

They're going to come out. well. that one was, uh, this other one? Uh, yeah. I don't know more.
Lube snap that one off? Yep. Oh well. Looks like we're doing some metal repair later too. Yay! All right.

So with the sway bar loose, you can kind of drop that down some and we should be able to squeeze this, uh, drive shaft out. So what I'll do is just hold that down and pull this out towards the front and free. Yeah, start my ear All right. We're moving back to the rear differential and we need to get the drive shaft disconnected back here because we can't pull the Transmissions out when driver shafts are installed.

So put that pry bar in there to hold that break that loose. same thing on the other one. Break It Loose That one's tight. Come here.

Yeah, there we go. And then I can try to get in there with a little power tool. There we go. Good.

Let's see if my wobbly is going to fit sideways. sideways. Wobbly? Whatever. It works Foreign.

There we go. Got him. Okay, so that's both the straps. Again, with the pry bar.

we'll go in and just separate that U-joint from the yoke. that's tight. Seriously? okay. bigger pry bar.

Wow. So I'm thinking like at some point this job should get easy. Like after: I get rid of all the rust and stuff. Bigger pry bar come out.

no way. Dude, come on. come on. stop.

This is silly. We don't want to be silly. do we drive shaft? No, we don't want to be compliant with my wheels. Man, this thing is not.

Uh, there's never never been out of here. Look at that and then up on the front, we just slide that yoke out and we're free. All righty. moving on.

I Want to go ahead and get some of this stuff disconnected? I've already uncovered or uncovered. I've already disconnected the shift lever. Now we just need to. Uh, it's gonna come out of there.

Let's get the primary electrical harness. Come on for the trans disconnected. It's a big lever type of connector. you know? got that guy pins look good.

So we're disconnected on this side over here. like I said. I've already taken the shift lever off. That was annoying.

Uh, we just need to pull the the O2 sensor connectors off. actually. no, no, no. I think everything's free from the trans? Yeah, we'll know when we let it down.

Oh, here we go. I got a bracket right here. We have to get that bracket out and that bracket or disconnect the fuel lines from that bracket. Okay, all right, yeah, it's we're ready to.

We're almost ready. so none of this is going to go anywhere until I Get this exhaust off and I can't get this exhaust off until I can get access to that bolt right there. and I can't get access to that bolt right there until this O2 sensor comes out. So we're gonna do that next and then work on those 15 millimeter exhaust bolts and then and then go from there.

I got torque on this. It's uh, it doesn't want to move but it will. I Can tell a lot of this stuff is never never been removed before, ever. All the clips are in the original positions and whatnot.
Okey-doke So it's the next day and I'm gonna go ahead and attack these uh, exhaust manifold bolts up here. No nuts, rather. I'm gonna try to get these guys to break loose without some heat. I might need to put a torch on them, but we'll see.

So I've got the long extension on it a 15 mil and let's apply some reverse torque I think it turned and survey says yep, that one's coming free. Cool. Let's one down. five to go.

There's three on each side, so six in total. this one's gonna come out. That's good. Yeah, Unfortunately, a lot of times when it comes to these things I've got to, uh, you've got to torch them off or break them off or something of that nature.

Looks like all that penetrating oil kind of did a good job. Okay, reach in there and grab that fastener. Save that for later. Okay, let's get the easier ones.

next. we've got two more on this side of the flange and then, uh, we'll move over to the driver's side. Okay, let's get the next hardest one. that one's on there and let's go ahead and unclick it coming up on.

oh, that was violent. Hit you guys with my extension I'm pretty sure that one broke loose so let's try. Let's get that third one next. I Believe I Need a swivel for that one? Yeah.

I can't uh, can't really get a straight shot I'll try it without see if it's gonna go. Okay, no no, no, it's not. It's not I need a swivel? Foreign. It's getting a little tight in there I might need to get a shallower socket Like a shallow Saga won't work, but maybe a shallow like a mid-deep midwell socket.

That's what I'm thinking mid whatever that socketon So let's give it a let's give it a try here. Come on. Didn't feel good foreign like that. Fortunately, the angle has to be a little steeper than what I'd like.

That's a negative. Not budging a little bit more. No, not. uh, not getting.

Try some fire. Just get some heat on the nut. See what it does? Foreign I See that penetrating oil starting to cook off? I Guess that's a good sign. Foreign I Hear it making noises up there.

It's also a good sign. It means it's expanding. Come on. Oh no, it's not budging.

All right. I'm I'm gonna reposition one more time and put a breaker bar on my ratchet here. Get some more leverage out of the deal on the click I Think it turned. Now it didn't All right.

All right, we're going to change this up a little bit. I'll try to get it with this ratcheting Crow's foot device here. Maybe that'll give me the uh The Leverage I Need to really get this thing broken loose. So let's try this one.

We're coming up on torque right here. Unclick. You're gonna work. I'm gonna break the stud I Think it doesn't feel that great.

It's turning. Oh oh yeah, buddy. here we go. Flashlight: Okay, so we got all three of them broken loose.
Let me just spin these guys off and then we'll go ahead. and uh, move over to the driver's side. Get out of there. A little rusty bolt got her Okie dokes driver's side now since this little uh Crow's foot deal works so well.

I'm just gonna keep on keeping on with it. See if I can't get a well insert foot and mouth I can't really get a hold of that one. Is that it close? There we go. That's better.

Okay and reverse clicks please? let's do this. Uh nope. Oh no. that one's not letting the budge.

That's not good. Got my little breaker bar thing on Jack Handle extension: Begin untorking. Come on, that one's not budging. Okay, a few moments later, all right.

try it again. There's a lot of torque going in there. Got a breaker bar on my ratchet Something's Gonna Go I'm either gonna lose the fastener ratchet. Oh that's the yeah.

that thing's not budging I'm twisting my extension. Okay, wow. give it back. Hmm.

get that thing's dug in pretty tight. That one needs some heat. Okay, well, let's try the next one. Maybe I can get this one to come out foreign.

We're like halfway there. We don't get to trip the finish line here. Yeah, don't stop budging. Okay, let's shake things up a bit.

Try an impact. Couldn't hurt? Nope. Maybe the bottom one? Nope, yeah, we're stuck now. All right, one more time with a fresh battery.

Nope. I wonder if I can get in there without the extension? At least get one of them out. like show me something here. foreign I just stripped the stripped the nut around.

nonsense there. it's Cherry colored like I will escalate until this thing comes apart. This is nonsense. Oh, come on, get on there things a little starting to strip and become fatigued from all the other work I'm putting into it here and that didn't work.

it slipped Nikes Get on there all the way. Please hurry up. I don't I'm kind of done taking me like two hours to get this far. Could have this thing just finished by now.

Come on. Do we need more heat slapped? Not okay. Six times the charm. Come on.

turn I think it turned. no it's ripped. That's that's great. Okay, you can't be stuck if it's liquid.

Thank you. Awesome. There we go. No idea.

Oh look at that. Yeah, a little bit of heat goes a long way. That's great. I Love torches now I gotta get to the hard to get to one and no I didn't really mean to melt that one completely off, but it happened so I'll just deal with that later.

I can get it. probably get a stud extractor on it and unthread it, but I need to get the manifold off first for the uh, the Y-pipe I should say y-pipe first so we'll get these studs out there. We go. all right.

A little a little bit of heat. Let's get the next one that's hard to reach on that one. not melting, just eating I Can see it from the right. Do not catch far on fire.
Try that foreign. Nope. All right. One more attempt here.

Let's Hammer this in with a bigger hammer. Yeah, that's in now. One more reverse clicking attempt and it's not turning. Oh yeah, it is.

a little bit. that one feels like it's going to snap the stud. Yeah. I'm gonna lose the stud on this one.

Okay, maybe more heat. Let's put more heat into that more heat. Again, it's red again. we're off one more time.

Remember that guy in this is uh I grow weary of this? Come on turn. Oh, that's a good sign. It made noises. it's turning.

Yeah, oh yeah. cool. Don't you stop I'm out foreign. Come on, we're almost there.

Oh, it slipped, didn't it? Yep, it's fine. Hammer more hammering. This is brutal I Wish I hadn't torched off that other one now. I Gotta extract that stud.

It's also going to be fun. Yeah. foreign. Oh, it's coming.

Pretty happy. a little more. Come on. come on.

all right. I think I think that's all of it. Okay, now what foreign? it's ready to come out I wonder what if that sockets just stuck on there and it's finding against the pipe? I Think that's what's going on Let's get that socket off of there. Come on dude.

there we go. Um, survey says that that thing is not off of there yet? Okay, all right. well. um, the threads have stripped so we're cutting off the uh, the bolt next, the nut button off the nut I need more fire.

All right. So the nut has stripped I'm gonna go ahead and just cut it off. That's all I can do at this point it started to come out and I guess the threads rolled away and now it won't unthread. So I I'm gonna cut it off I think I got it I got it.

enough cleaning metal chunks. All right, that's free. So I got to put studs in it, but it's free now so that's that's a partial. Victory Hooray! Okay, let's go back to the uh, the rear clamp over here because I'm gonna have to cut that guy off too.

Foreign 's on fire. Goodbye now it's not on fire. Okay, so that's loose. the fronts are loose.

Oh, floors on fire. Oh no my. Snap-on things are on fire there We: you're not being safe Yes I am I have uh, my warranty on those and uh I have fire extinguishers so we're all good. Okay, so revisiting the the front flange here I've got enough meat on this stud where I think I can extract it and that one over there for sure.

Uh all I need to do is put a bunch of heat into the flange and then get an extractor on that and I should be able to back those out so that's not going to be an issue. All right. Next up, we need to pull this cross member down so we can get the exhaust to come down and out. But uh, we can't do that because the transmission is bolted to it.

So let's unbolt the trans. Now the trans and uh, the transfer case are sitting on top of this thing so unbolting it will not let it fall. I've already got a a jack stand under the transfer case. See it right there, that guy.
It's kind of camouflaged behind the oil drain. Let's move that there. So what I'm going to do is we're going to unbolt the Mount from uh, this cross member and then we'll unbolt the crossmember and drop it down. It unclicks.

There we go now. I can lift up a little bit on the trans. It's going to start to, uh, pull away from the cross member. So the cross member here.

Okay, so the cross member's got two bolts on one side, two bolts on the other side. Let's go ahead and get the nuts off of there loud noises and I gotta hold it from the back with a wrench. There's one nut. We'll set that guy aside.

going after number two here. Got it? One bolt can come out I Think: put that exhaust out of the way. Okay, let's get the other two over on the other side and then we can start letting this thing down. Show what I'll do up and over.

sorry if my noggin's in the way. Okay, foreign second nut. So now just the uh, the bolts are holding that in. shoe pry bar going to need.

It's always pry bar. We always need pry bar. So what I'm gonna do for one? Bolt So it's just kind of floating there now enough. it's really holding it in.

knock out that second. Bolt Exhaust up. Pull it out foreign and we just get underneath of this thing with a pry bar. pry it down and it's out of the way real easy, right? Sure.

So now I think this whole assembly should be pretty free and I can just squiggle the thing right on out here. I think what was that? it's gonna come out or what's the deal? Foreign. Alrighty, folks, we got it apart. I Think this is the hard part.

The rest should be pretty easy. if we get a jack under this, support the trans, unbolt it, pull her back, drop it down, and then, uh, we can pull the flex plate off and get to that rear cover. The exhaust over here is in good shape. It survived.

no damage, no damage, no damage. Um. I am going to need to replace the studs in these manifolds which again, with everything out of the way, I should be able to extract those uh, without too much effort. Let's get that donut gasket out of there real quick.

Hang on. Pop that guy off. we don't need that. I Always change these with a new one.

Okay, all right I'm tired. This is a little excruciating. That's a lot of work. I'm going to go ahead and call this one good.

We'll call it a quits for the day. Uh, I'm done with this thing for now I'll start on it again when I'm more fresher. So I'm going to close this video out. Uh, That being said, as always like, thank you for watching this video.

hope you enjoyed this video. So naturally there's probably going to be a part two on this because I'm not even halfway done yet. So uh, until then again, and as always, thank you guys for watching. And most importantly, don't forget to have yourself a great day! See you guys later! Ending of Avalanche Transmission removal procedure.
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97 thoughts on “Flaming metal chunks! 2012 chevrolet avalanche 5.3 4×4 oil leaks”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tiddybearkush says:

    Buy a big pneumatic air impact gun that can give some real hammering.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars datgamerboy123 says:

    Some of the sounds Ray made in this video are…. Questionable… To say the least 😂

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rob D says:

    Incredible job Ray, exhaust bolts are no fun. Have you ever tried "Knock-er- loose " penetration oil? I had an old can from the 60's, made short work of my exhaust nightmare

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Dilbeck says:

    Hey Ray I'm so glad that you have your own shop you are a very good mechanic most mechanic would even tell anybody anything or make up things to do just to make more money off of them I'm glad you are an honest mechanic are hard to come by especially where I live in Ohio I found a good mechanic. Owns his own shop he does let me bring my parts from time to time when you can't get them but I also believe a good tip

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jason LeCreux says:

    Fun fact, the stubby 3/8 Milwaukee you used on the sway bar bushing is actually rated for 30 more lb/ft compared to the secondary option of the right angle impact

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kasey McCleary says:

    I just want to know where you got the gear wrench crows foot wrenches

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bryan Kirk says:

    You should charge "Restoration Fees" my friend.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim C. says:

    Why does the driveshaft look like it's got surface rust on it? Is it made of steel or is that just road grime? I had an '02 Avalanche for five years (bought it new) and it had an aluminum driveshaft.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Uncle Ned says:

    Yes, ray, a bolt that has turned to liquid cannot be stuck. I'm glad you have that blowtorch

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Old Time Farm Boy says:

    Use the cutting torch to cut two opposite sides off the nut and then you can usually use a cold chisel to break the nut off.

    As far as I am concerned, all threads anywhere on the exhaust system should come with a generous coating of never seize.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wane E says:

    As an retired GM Engineering Technician. I loved the concept and execution of the Avalanche 😍. The only problem was that a lot of things that normal eventually need to be replaced can be stupidity hard to get at and impossible for even experience DIY. I was just waiting for this one we had at our facility. GM level 8 and above get to have a brand new car every three months. And employees were given the chance to buy them at a decent discount.before they were put on dealership lots for sale as fleet vehicles. Anyways had my eyes on one fully equipped ones. Even had the loan all set.was going to even turn my 93, S-10 4×4 blazer in for the cash for clunkers deal. Even though it only had about fifty thousand miles on her and had pretty much been a garage Queen for it's first twenty years. Unfortunately about two weeks at our facility I was actually was in the vehicle when it happened. We were going to lunch. And when I jumped in I noticed a familiar smell. Asked George if he smelled that and he said ya it had started on the way to work this morning. I told him it smells like hot coolant. Witch he agreed and said he was going to drop it off at the dealer. So to make a long story short. It was the Heater core. Apparently the assembler had cocked the hose clamp bending the nipple at the same time 🙄. And they had to Remove the Whole Dashboard. I knew mechanic who was working on it and he knew I was going to be buying it. And he called me and said I should come buy and check out my soon to be mine truck. And as I turned the corner there sat the dash and at least a hundred other things. Bolts,chips, brackets etc,etc,. Needless to say my buddy said I'd be crazy if I bought this vehicle. Telling me about how bad it was built in the beginning. From lose fasteners, even a few broken electrical connections 🤐,etc… he told me it was one of the most teateus frustrating jobs he had to do. All because of pisspoor assemble of the vehicle over all. Of course if you only pay the the worker's peanuts and little training to begin with. You end up buying a new vehicle Sadly NOT Built with PRIDE. If only they had been built in America. But then they would have cost a lot more. No offense to Mexico as I have been to the assembly sites there a few times over the years. So all because of a heater core I never bought one but still love the concept of it. BTW I still have my 1993 S-10 4×4. With now 108K on her and still running prefect. Except for the Shitie Vortex fuel injection system🤬🤬 at least I can replace them in a afternoon and two fuel pumps.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matt D says:

    That was crazy Ray!

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars nelson glass says:

    Your co mechanic on south main auto cuts a lot of rusty nuts… it seem to be a common problem

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rennia Trayvold says:

    Ray, love your vids, but I do worry about you using regular sockets on an impact for some of those bolts. Those sockets have been known to shatter violently.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars andrew imray says:

    "It can't be tight if it's a liquid"

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wayne Goin says:

    I didn't know Avalanches came with a Duck installed in the under carriage 🙂

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Runski says:

    Thank you for confirming that paying a professional to replace the exhaust on my wife's car was the right choice!

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim Staszko says:

    Is that one of those Eric O cars in FL?

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Casey wright says:

    Ray hold out ur hand! “Proceeds to smack hand” more fire a a 5/8s or 9/16s would have just needed dos nutz.

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mark Mawson says:

    Welcome to the world of rust, i have a Milwaukee M12 compact ⅜dr Impact and M12 ⅜ and ½dr right angled impact and they won't remove sod all like what you've removed where I've seen you remove subframe bolts and suspension bolts, i even bought the M18 ½dr compact impact and that is gutless on subframe bolts the only Impact that will remove anything like that is the big Milwaukee M18 impact gun.

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Victor F says:

    This guy is the most calm unintimidating Mechanic that I've ever seen on YouTube I like his videos although I know what I'm doing I do get a lot of tips from him and I recommend his channel because he's funny I like the sounds I like the way he works I like his worth ethic and that fact that he really doesn't like Dealership's ripping people off … Great vid's bro keep up the good work …

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dave Darhk says:

    Rust…… Its a chevy thing

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MEXICAN WHITE DEVIL says:

    A lot of gravity in this video

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bob Webb says:

    Now you know what the mechanics go through each and every day in the rust bucket area in the North. Reminds me of what I use to go thru when I did this back in the 50's and 60's. The torch was my favorite tool.

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Simr Khera says:

    Should've Eric O'ed all those nuts from the beginning, save yourself time and hassle lol

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars FORD ADDICT says:

    Another 20 broken bolts and it's like living in New England

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars FORD ADDICT says:

    One broken bolt is fine. Just green locktite the other one back in

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matthew Martin says:

    Eric O. Is cackling maniacally in the language "rustbelt" watching this video.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Don W says:

    Ray 1, Chevy 0 🙂

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dimer6.0 says:

    Ray always going the extra mile to get the shots for his viewers.. love it ahah

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jacob Dykes says:

    What are them ratcheting sockets you're using

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars hoseqt1 says:

    It can't be difficult if it's Liquid…..👍👍

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brandon Adams says:

    Them downpipe bolts were whooping Ray Ray's ass lol

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Darren Smart says:

    It's a right pain when exhaust bolts rust I find a nut splitter helps

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hild Acres says:

    I had to do the rear main on our 07 yukon recently. Broke 3 of the 6 manifold to exhaust bolts. It was a pain!

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bekim says:

    Whats up Ray. When I saw you working with the torch I thought for a second I was watching a SMA video. Those flange bolts got you working a little outside your comfort zone.

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Raymond Anderson says:

    Best phrase ever "can't be stuck if it's liquid"

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars stumpy2816 says:

    Nothing like a gas axe when the going gets rough. Well done Rain Man 👍👍

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Thatcher says:

    You didn't say "please!" lol

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Martin Brown says:

    🤣🤣🤣 Floors on fire, floors on fire, oh no snap on on fire, been there done that hilarious 🤣🤣🤣

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gary Pugh says:

    You can remove that front drive shaft out without removing sway bar if you go over front differential,