In this video I bring you along as I swap out the rear u-joint on a 2005 Chevy Suburban that still has the factory nylon injected u-joint. According to service data you are supposed to press these lil guys out. I have been using the heat method for about 25 years with no issues. You use your discretion when doing yours and always follow service data.
-Enjoy!
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-Enjoy!
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
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Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
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South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
Hello Viewers and welcome back to the South Main Auto Channel Got some 2005 Chevrolet It's a Suburban It's got the Big Five three uh customer States It sounds like there's a bird chirping in the back I Took it for a ride. Uh, it sounds like a bird chirping and some grinding. and when they get up to about 60, it's got some pretty heavy vibration. So in my opinion it sounds like it needs a rear.
U-joint I Figure we'll get it up in the air and see what it really means. All right, Yes sir, it's got the classic rust dust. so I'm throwing out of this little guy. It's not loose yet, you don't feel it being loose.
but when you see all that brown sometimes orangish colored, rust, blue and I'm pretty obvious what's going on. So these are kind of a unique U-joint Uh, this one appears to be original still and you can see it has these little ears sticking a little titties sticking out of there. Uh, they're plastic and that's how they hold the, uh, outer cap in on the factory you joined. They're impregnated with plastic in there.
I Assume it's you know, blown in there somehow. but the only way to get them out is reheat a moth and this thing blows out of there like one of those little bikes makes. you used to lay down fire as a kid. not a real snake, but you know the ones you get and you stick on the ground.
You light them and they grow. That's what these do. We heat them up, all the plastic comes out in your new U-joint will have Clips on it so let me check the front you then I Guess we got to pull the whole drive shaft Anyways, Let me see if Napa has one of these. We'll get one and I'll show you how we change.
Uh, the U-joints on your Chevrolet when they're bone sack. Good news Napa has one. The lady said get after it so we're gonna peel this apart. Let's take our straps off here.
All right now. A few joints are already been done. It's just standard procedure here. Screwdriver: Yeah.
make sure you have your bucket ready up here on the other end because when you pull that out of the transfer case 50 chance. if you don't have a bucket, you have the biggest mess of your life. It appears that the front of your joint is in really good shape. This one has a double plastic folder.
Enters: Double Plastic Diners I don't know what you call them these U-joints rarely fail Spicer U-joints are fantastic and I believe that's what GM uses. Um, these things are usually Outlast the vehicle here in New York but let's get the rear one cut out of there so you can get a better look at it now and see that. U-joint Well, these caps were good. the other one's not so much.
Oh, there we go I Guess you could probably tap it back. Yeah, see the Steppy Uh, we'll take okay. knock this cap off, put it right here and pull that one off. I Can see those ones are good cheap.
a couple ways you can do it. We're going to use the cut and torch method. We're just going to knock the cross out, but I'll show you prior to doing that. You can also do them with a little butane torch. propane torch if you have one, where you just heat up the cap here and watch him grow. let me show you that and then we'll get the torch and just chop it off. This is my butane torch, but you have to use your imagination. You can use a regular butane torch and what you would do is just start keeping her up along here.
Now the plastic goes all the way around here, all the way around here. Start heating her up even though this isn't the method we're going to use. Show you it's pretty fun. The little little worm comes out of there.
it goes, see it coming out of there? I Don't know if you guys don't see that or not on camera, but a little plastic worm shot right out of the hole there and it continues to grow and you just do that for a little bit. It usually squirts out of one side. All right. Has a real distinct order to it.
You know when somebody's doing a GMU joint and then you do the same thing on this side I Don't know what the proper method is, but this is how we've done it for a lot of years. You can see the plastic oozing up out of there right now. You see that. That's fun, right? So anyhow, you would do that.
Oh, she just shot me with a little plastic worm facial. It didn't hit me in the face itself. thank goodness. I had my Squints on.
Anyways, let's see, in case you don't believe me. Uh, but you do have to watch that because she'll get you. Uh, they'll build that pressure and they'll smoke it And then now you could drive the usually out as you would any other normal. Arbor Presser Whatever it is you, this is our press so we're gonna take and cut the joint.
These are steel view joints. Gotta be careful. make sure you're cutting away from yourself but towards your buddy, not your body. Okay, because they can make a little pop.
It'll scare you. come on baby. Foreign. So we do that.
You're almost out there little fella. There she goes I Will take her over on the bench. We'll knock the cats out. don't uh, just stick it on a bench.
Whack them suckers because you'll take a chance of pushing the ears together so it's gonna punch and go do that. All right. So we're gonna stick her in the Vise Just like. So this way here, we're not going to take a chance of knocking those ears together.
Got her up on a couple blocks. Try not nothing on the floor, there's that easy. That one All right, like that. Let's take that up here.
It's a little toasty I'll show you it's not hot. This doesn't take me long to look at it. You can see it's got this groove around here and that's where the plastic. I Guess it's plastic.
The retaining stuff is, uh, injected around us. Smells like plastic when it's burning. But there's a corresponding Groove in the drive shaft too. And this is where people get in trouble.
You got to clean that junk out and you got to get the old burnt plastic off There easiest way to do it is just heat it up. It won't take a 90 degree pick and we'll just scrape it out of there. Whoa. But you've got to make sure you get that stuff out on both sides. so let me do that so we're gonna heat her up a little bit. You can use your butane torch again. Oh, so just go through here. You don't have to turn it like blood red, just enough to start making that plastic melt.
Usually the plastic will get kind of hard after it heats up, cools down, and then you can flick it right out of there. Foreign. all right. You just don't want it binding up.
When you go to stick the new caps in, you know what? I mean what? I mean dude, let's come through here. usually just kind of curls up and falls right out of there. Yes sir. All right, we're in good shape for the shape we're in now.
we just need to clean out the caps. and then the other important spot on here to make sure that's clean is is right down here on these. Yeah, on the flat, on the flat side of the drive shaft, here on the inside. because the new U-joint is going to have clips that click on here so you don't want a lot of rust build up here.
So I typically will just throw these in the sandblaster and just you know, blast glass this off. but we'll use a little flatty wheel in this case. This one's pretty clean so we'll just run a little flappy wheel up inside here. run it across here, make sure everything's clean.
Wait for Napa to show up with the joint. Good to go. It's got the Flappy tool. it's gonna flap towards just about a shot.
All right. It's nice and shiny and then we'll use your classic cleaning uppie tool. Make sure you got something covering up your juggler. If you're using a tool like this, there looks good.
I'll definitely not recommended. Don't use your cut off wheel on the side like that. we're still waiting on Napper Uh. Seats have cooled down as soon as they get here.
I'm not going to join in and then that's it. The rest is pretty much crazy. We got your Flappy wheel out. clean up the rear yoke here.
This one's actually quite clean on this truck. Surprisingly, these things can be super. Rusty This little flap Wheels about smoked. All right, that's good.
And then the other spot we need to clean up is in here. It's kind of a pick, just clean around. Inside of here looks like it has a little bit of a profile to it where the clip sits. You just want to make sure that huge one is going to sit nice and centered in there.
It looks really nice. Now take the Caps the the covers here. Oh over on my cart and go clean them off too. Uh, be mindful of a you know, like a rust Ridge on them.
Don't just wire wheel them because sometimes it just Smooths it over. But you know, use a flappy wheel or whatever you got to clean it off. Let's go and look at them. so these ones aren't too bad. but you can see the U-joint doesn't sit on the whole thing. so just make sure you're cleaning that little rust Ridge off there and then you can wire wheel them up. You know you can use a little cookie wheel. You don't have to be an air hose.
it would make a sound like that. Accurate. My uh, sound effect was pretty cool. You just want to get rid of that rust.
so get out of here. Ross That's pretty well. it hit him on the wire wheel over there I know Roger and she's good to go. Who knows.
Maybe nap will be here by the time we're done. Napper Finally showed up. It's classic 534 G that's the number. Anyways, it'd be really nice if somebody around here carried uh, you know the good brand.
Spicer but nobody carries Spicer You always have to order them. We need this fix. Right now. we're going to slide this little guy up in here, stick our cap on there, flip it around, flip it back around or oh that, huh? Well, it's going in harder than expected.
Isn't that lovely? Oh, let me get black wood here. Thank you times. They're a little tough and you have to be cautious. You know it's when you can let it go so you don't drop the needles.
Oh, you're not being a real tough guy today, are you finger? Pinchers You're gonna be so she's ready to go play demo guys of course, make sure you don't have the full you know, dirt and junk and that's that. We got to put the clips on these little cars. We've got some beefy Clips on there boys. that's all I got.
Oh easy fella because I'm a little squeezed and now you're good to go. We'll put it on, we'll pump a little grease in there and everybody will be happy. Oh, let's see, we're gonna slip right up in the transfer case which is really nothing special about that. and then prior to doing anything here, give her a spritz of your favorite slippery stuff.
and then before you don't, don't just go sticking it in. you've got to make sure your Clips are not facing. You know, they're only like half moon shaped so they only go well. a little more than half around, maybe two-thirds around.
Make sure they're not facing towards you, but they're facing into the Yoke You know what I mean Jelly Bean You will. you'll see, and then we'll line her right up just like so. And she said, slip down in very nicely all the way just by hand. If you've got to beat it in, you're probably doing it wrong.
You might have to very very lightly tap it, but got everything cleaned up. They'll usually slide right in. kick these little guys. give them a little Spritz if you will come back up there.
I Might mention this is a lot easier to do when the vehicle is in neutral. this one is. spin it around I'll grab our wrench, not that side. We'll use this side.
it's the 11 millimeter variety through here. No, you're up. Look at that. We got a little screwdriver, a little snug, that guy a little snug, that guy a little snug and then come back through with your torque wrench and torque them to factory specs. Now we'll get up in here. Give her a little shot of Grease Oh come on baby. Nope. there she goes I See it coming up out of the cap wipe? offer excess? There she is and that's it folks.
Looks like you want to make sure we got grease coming out of all four caps and it looks like we do. Yeehaw So these SKF joints the greasable ones. The grease fitting is right in the middle of the joint. It's not offset to one side or the other like some of them are.
which makes them kind of a pain because without special adapter you can't get up in here and get on these so you can use this style adapter. You can use the blunt point needle adapter and that's about all you can get in there on these ones with so make some kind of a pain if you want a greaseable joint. ones that go in and the Caps those sometimes are a lot easier for the homeowner to do. If you don't have you know you know or my suggestion would be we'll give it a choice and time would be to buy the non-greasable Spicer U-joint There's a by far the strongest shoe joints on the planet and that's not a fact.
it may be a fact, but in my opinion, you put a spacer in there last rest of your life. That's your motto. Buy a Spicer last rest of your life. That may not be true either.
but one thing that I know is true folks that we're done with this Chevrolet well almost. it's so he's not sensors and front wheel bearings and some other stuff. but this part of it's done. and I don't want you to be done with this video until you click on that comment section.
The SD The Facebook leave a comment down there. You guys know what to do and uh, just my reviewers. If I can do it, you can do it. Thanks for watching Foreign.
You totally just wanted to play with your torch
When you first had an issue, I thought you had a needle drop on you and get sideways in the cap.
It’s the classic NK4 shaft!
Thank you for this video. I'm about to tackle the same thing for my 2003 Suburban tomorrow. This is VERY useful!
buy a spicer, go for a lifer.
Does the closed end of the clips go towards the rear dif
I'm curious, why don't you put some lube on those Going in the drive shaft, so the Are going in smoother and easier.
Just asking
Eric, I didn't know if you noticed or not, but you had a can of green C r c contact cleaner and that's the flammable stuff just thought I'd say something
Another one done…and rolling 😊
did em on my 1968 impala, never heard of such a thing. so i sat with the torch and one came out nice and easy like the snake, as you described. the other one exploded and blew the cap off! not sure why lol
I'm just curious. Would the amount of heat you used during all the removal cause any damage to the structural integrity of the drive shaft/u joint? I guess in a metallurgical standpoint?
CHEVY THUNDER!!!
Great job
I run the spicers whenni can get em
Made me nervous watching you swing that torch around inches from that can of brake clean! "Boom" air full of Poison gas.
In all the years of wrenching, i've never come across these types!
Just shows no one has all the knowledge.
Not having a torch, i used my BBQ grill to heat up the cap worked fine.
And i did use a cutoff wheel to slice the ujoint ends off.
I think one could just drive the joint caps out without cutting the Cross.
Next time i'll try that.
Great video again…..Thanks SMA!
Only "trick" here is driving a new J cap in without dislodging needle bearings in the cap.
Be sure to hold the cross in the cap end,or press it in.
If you dislodge a needle in the cap.
You wont get the clip in.
Also.. sometimes driving it in the joint can bind so tap the cap ends to seat the caps.
Eric did a great job on this, just wanted to warn the diy guys that the u joint needs the rotate free, if it is tight it will fail or cause a vibration, taping on the flanges usually works ( like he did), but if it is still tight, take it back out and hit the inside of the flanges again with a grinder
good job Mr O, I have done hundreds of those in my 43 years as a mechanic, I use my OTC ball joint press to put them in, it works great
My grandpa always told me if your not going to use the whole hammer handle cut it shorter 😂
Back in the '70s & '80s we did a lot of these mostly off of Caddys and Buicks. We used a berzamatic torch and a brass hammer to drive 'em out. Hit them with a wire brush and some emory cloth inside the shaft once they were cooled down. We'd charge $20 a piece to put them in a removed shaft. It was only about 15 min work, but we'd tell em pick it up in 2 hrs.
Not to be a know it all, but one of my mechanic coworkers only had one eye that worked. Shard from hammer on u- joint cap. Try to get yourself a 6" chunk of 1" brass rod 😊
Nothing ever piss me off more then hammering these U-joints out then my neighbor coming over says what you hammering on I said getting my U-joint apart he walked away later I found out they had to be heated to hit that stupid plastic off it took two days to replace a U-joint.😠
I cut the U-joints out with my torch out aswell, its the quickest way.. i noticed you didn't set your torch to neutral flame while holding the oxygen lever down, thats how i set my torch and it cuts like a laser beam, my oxygen is set to 35 p.s.i. And my acetylene is set to 7 p.s.i. Love your videos man keep up the good work!😊
The underside of that vehicle is crazy clean for a NY '05.
Impressively clean bench!
automakers cut costs in so many ways but cars are getting more and more expensive!
last ujoint I messed with had needle bearings!
As soon as you went “that’s fun right?” I busted out loling and got a look from my gf. I dunno why but that just struck me funny.
I remember the times of oil changes when the Ford needed greasing when an oil change was done. They acted like it should cost extra to search for each fitting and pump them up.
Your videos have good commentary and don't waste people's time but are concise and full of good commentary along every step of the way
I think the material used is Teflon
👍👍
Way overdone, just melt the plastic out, in your case it was a rear joint. Just put the cross between the jaws of a vise and tap it out with a hammer. Tap on the shaft not u-joint area and it will come right out. Also you should put a warning out, I have shot a cap across a 7 bay shop melting the plastic. Keep it pointed away from you.
Fact – Dana/Spicer u-joints are the best.
Nice to have a can of brakleen ready to put the fire out.
I know I would have done the u-joint install differently, I would have probably smacked the webbing on my hand.
GM if you don't know it's injected nylon you'll be beating it to death 😂
Another GM wonderful idea just like the plastic timing gear. Yes they constantly prove that only Mr Goodwrench is qualified to work on your car.
Perfect job! Made the whole thing look easy. Thanks, Ed H.
Perfect job! A lot of folks do not center the joint after installing the caps but you did! Gulf caps off to you!
I'm surprised you didn't mention when heating the plastic wrap, the caps can and often do, blow out across the room. Keep your body and face away from the caps. 😮
SKF is a top brand, they make the best automotive ball bearings on the planet, lasting hundreds of thousands of miles. Never had trouble with their stuff, from a car manufacturer or from aftermarket.
As long as you don't buy a fake SKF part, you will never have any trouble with it.
Wouldn't it be better to put those caps into freezer?
Only thing I'd add is to strike either the cross or yoke to move the caps out slightly so that the clips seat against the yoke.
All those sparks! Was this done on the 4th of July? 😅
Chevy has kept many a mechanics in business
be cautious a mechanic freind lost an eye when one of those C clips broke
👍👍
A big hammer and an acetylene wrench!
If the spicer came in a purple box it definitely will not last forever lol The red box yes.
SPICER, THE ONE AND ONLY U JOINT…
I managed to change one of these out before I knew the trick to it. Used a vice and a Dremel.
GM did this for many years with the nylon U-joint driveshafts I replace many of these U-joints I used to get a headache from the order of that nylon burning
Bahahaha stiffie🤣
More work, less jabber.
Ive been melting GM joints out for 20+ years, The only thing I do different is instead of cutting through the cross I only heat the outer edge of the yoke starting at the injection point and go side to side around the cap area with the torch until the plastic exits the yoke through the injection holes,(looks like toothpaste leaving the tube) then with the exposed + cross laying in the vice with the machined ends across the vice jaws and only hit the base of the yoke near the weld with the hammer, I never hit the cap area to avoid deforming it. This drives the cap to the outside of the joint using the old cross as the driver. Ive never damaged a yoke with this method. The only time I cut through the cross is on front axle U joints because they are usually really rusty and the axles are super delicate and easy to deform with a hammer.
Dana/ Spicer for life!
In like flint…slick!
I just hate when my ears get pushed together.
What’s the torque spec for those caps?
Wish we were closer to each other and I would bring you my Auto when it needed fixed!!
SKF is fine too.
The first time I encountered these things I wasn’t sure how to get it apart so I built a fire in a metal bucket and sit it down in the fire,went about my business and shortly it popped apart Boom good to go
That is the way I always did it, you do have to be careful sometimes they literally blow out /up with excessive heat.
Looks like the rear diff seal is giving out
Invest in a Arbor press, much easier and faster my friend
looks like one clip shot out some where and you didnt catch it , it looks like that anyways
Had to do this pre youtude.
Been using heat on nylon joints for decades myself, then replace them with a small ball pien hammer, always been a fan of the heat especially when replacing front shocks on Ford I-Beam suspension, Those radius arm studs on the bottom always break off without the heat wrench, and the arms are no fun replacing when a stud breaks.
I used to take a brake wheel cylinder flex hone and wd40 and zip it in and out of the cap holes a couple of times in the shaft. Always came out shiny clean.
More brilliant GM engineering! Great video, thanks!
Don't be surprised if you have a driveline vibration after the replacement. GM was not very exact on the placement of the joint in the shaft with the plastic injection Lock method. They were balanced afterword's and if the joint needs replaced later and the mechanical locks are used the shaft and joint position may not be where the balance was before the replacement . Had a garage my whole life and we learned let the customers know up front that it may be out of balance after the replacement and the shaft assembly may need rebalanced.
First time I found one of those, I was super confused how it came apart. So I tried to press it and nothing happened.. So I added some heat, and it started oozing out. Enough of that and it came apart.
What a terrible idea.
Eric O’…Thanks A lot! Now I know what I did wrong on my Drive shaft! I did not see a link for that handy Grease gun extension. And, I thought that the Gulf hat was distressed by your Dad.
spicer ftw
I've put a hundred of those in. Usually heat the first cap until the plastic starts coming out then lay the u joint cross across the the vice jaws and rap the driveshaft beside the cap and the cap pops out, then do the other side. Very little torch use that way and at $300 a tank for acetylene you need to use the torch sparingly. The plastic will be sheered off that way and won't have to be removed either. Done a bunch of the double cv u joints this way too.
IT'S like squeezing a pimple and watching the pus ooze out.
Back when I was a teenager, I knew a lady who owned an auto parts store, and she had an MGB as her "fun car". I would spend time at her store and would make deliveries and run errands for her, and she would let me drive the MGB. This little sports car was prone to u-joint failure to the point that she kept a spare u-joint and a pair of pliers in the car, and she would replace the joint on the side of the road!
👍
Eric does your fingers hurt in the mornings?
Great video!
Nice work!
That looks pretty clean for a 2005! Must be FluidFilm!!
Can't find Spicer joints around here either.
When I was a teenager, I helped my buddy change his nylon retained u-joint. We used a road flare to melt it out. It worked well 🤷♂️
I'm guessing you didn't notice the parts cleaner when heating up the drive shaft.
I used to do tons of these back in the day when I was a mechanic up in Washington state. Always enjoyed taking the torch to these and watch them squeeze out the hole.
I had a local shop rebuild the driveshaft on my 1985 F-150 with Spicer non-greaseable u-joints. Glad I went with them after hearing your vote of confidence.
NICE GULF CAP … MY DAD HAD AN OLD TIME GULF GAS STATION BACK IN THE DAY … I PUMPED GAS AS A KID 😁😁😁
Wow I’ve been a tech for almost 15 years and have never known this lol, we honestly don’t do a lot of u joints down in the ole south, they’re just not something that go bad all that often, so I’ve never known GM did this
WAAAIIITTT!!!!! Did I hear titties???
I always giggle when i see Kum Ho tires.
SMA collab with Dr. Pimple Popper.
Honestly seems like a waste of time and unnecessarily heating up everything compared to the traditional hammer, vice, socket method.
Nice work Mr. O! Tight caps going in. My Dad used the LARGE vice and a few well positioned nuts on his bench to press the caps in with a few "light taps" from a hammer to center everything.
What about aluminum drive shafts? Are the "U" joint ends steel? How do you press out the joint caps on those shafts?
You do know how to set a proper flame on a oxy-acetylene torch? I didn't see one ..
I can smell this vid. I did an exhaust repair on an 08 Durango Hemi with 311307 miles on it, and the U joint at the rear diff still had the nylon retained OEM joint in it. That's one of those Unicorn Mopars. I like to say that the joint is "making cinnamon" when I see rust dust, pro tip, it is not as good as real cinnamon !
Love this channel. I do very little work on my car, but I do like to understand what my mechanic is talking about. Thanks for the Subaru wheel bearing removal tips. I shared it with my mechanic and he thought it was excellent!
Excellent video. Watched the entire job on a truck I will ever own simply because I learned something and the step by step was better than 99% of those found on YouTube.