That folks are going to take a break from working on Chevrolets and we gotta work on a Nissan This thing is a 2010. It says Nissan Rouge and we're just hit another shop. Drop this off. Yeah.

appointment for today and evidently this thing let me get in here. Uh, blows the fuse for the marker lights are so I'm told he says during light time it blows the fuse. That's interesting. the rear wipers wiping back there I didn't have it turned on parked up on the window.

All right. Well, that's something worthy of noting. but I assume the fuse that's in it is blown currently so we're gonna have a look, see and see if we can help this shop out. find out where the short is or what's shorted it out.

I'll get it fixed for them 133 455 We'll turn on the marketplace so we have high beam low beam out here and take a peek before we shut her down to no marker lights. Little plate lights, No markers there. We have no markers in the front either. Okay, well let's fight and fuse.

find the diagram and see what we see. So I'm looking at the exterior lights so you know I'm looking at license plate lights over here on the right, uh, left rear combination light. so it's our you know tail stop turn. uh, must be a right one here.

Yep, there's a right rear and then of course we have our front light. but if we follow all those wires up, they go to two separate fuses which is kind of peculiar. feels 46 and 45 and we've seen that there was no front lights or backlights so that's kind of bizarre, right? Um, unless you know unless it's the power that feeds this relay. So let's find Fuse 46 and 45.

It says it's in the left side of the engine compartment, but uh, my. PDM So it must be this little guy right here. This looks like it has fingerprints on it, so chances are this is all coming out. Yep.

we got one little plastic tab here so let me set you guys down and we'll see if it which of those two fuses are both which would be really weird foreign. Let's see which lid are we going to be under I Don't think this one we'll find out that looks like the cleanest lid. I Think this pulls out that whole Ipvm I Don't know if they lay on the bottom of this thing. Let's see here.

Ah, let's see, we don't have fused numbers. I have like tail lamp. There we go. Tail lamp front parking lamp.

So yep, so there's our two. Let me just verify our fuse. Uh. ratings.

Yes, they're both 10 amp. Interesting, they don't have numbers on these, but let's see here it says tail lamp Front Park lamp. So it should go. Let's see: 10 10 for headlights 10 10.

10 10 10 10. Okay, so we got this row of fuses here. These ones are for the headlights, these are for the tail lights. And yes, they are both blown.

So maybe they did some swapparoo here. So uh, both of these fuses are bummed for the front because I got power on one side of the fuse and then no power on the other side. So let's grab a circuit breaker because I don't know if if it's blowing both of them. That's kind of wild, right? because it's two totally separate circuits.

one one circuit I can understand, but both of them. That's kind of weird. Let me grab a circuit breaker and see who's blowing what here. I Suppose instead of a circuit breaker, we kind of go old school.

Um, because like I said, the shop says that this thing blows a fuse it immediately as soon as you stick it in. So let's go old school and just use a headlight across it. One of these fuses is going to light the headlight because this is about a five amp load, four and a half amps and one of them is not because one of them is only going to control these front two lights. Therefore, it'll pass current through this so it shouldn't light.

It might light it kind of dim. so let's just take for example. let's try this. We'll try this top fuse first.

Oh, got a little spark there and I See, let me hold that. So the front lights are on and our headlights not lit up so we don't have a short. so let's replace that fuse and then I assume this one here will light up our light if it's shortened out. Yeah, so there we go that that one has a short on it.

Okay, that resolves the issue on the front. so both front marker lights are working. This is our suspect. this guy.

that sucker blows hard. I meant let's use a snap tray right apart. good. And then of course we are lighting up that you know, indicating to us that we certainly have a short on this circuit.

I Don't know if I can reach down that box, but you know this is a good way to do this this way. Here, we can trace the current because now we have you know, a four amp load on this circuit. Three different ten. We don't have to worry about burning up wiring depending on what it's shorted to.

of course. Um, but now we can trace the current to see where it's going. So we're going to leave that out. for now, we're going to look at our diagram again now that we've identified the fuse and see what circuits are involved.

Okay, all right. so this is pretty terrible. So Fuse 46 that's the one that works. That little guy comes down and feeds the left light in the front and the right light in the front.

However, we have Fuse 45 that's the one that's blowing the fuse. That little guy there and we follow that down and Nissan Decided to hook this to everything under the sun limited to Uh, including but not limited to the map light rate heated seat switch left heated seat switch CBT Selector Rumination door mirror remote control switch AC Amplifier all you Hazard switch Combination switch Glove box light all-wheel drive switch light Headlamp aiming switch headlamp manual aiming BDC Oh, not to mention both plate lights in the left and right rear combination light. So this is I can only assume all of these items that we see across here are for illumination I Guess it will be. so they probably all have LEDs in each one of those items.

so we only have about you know, half a dozen or so. what? One, two, three four five six seven, eight nine, ten eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen, fifteen sixty We have 17 items that could be failing and pulling it down. not to mention wire. Lots and lots of wire.

So let's come up with a plan. How are we going to break this thing down? This place would be nice to know where it's at. I'm going to go, probably look through some Factory diagrams. might take me a minute.

I'm also going to look for some silver bullets in case somebody else has already come across this problem because that's always handy and uh, and then we're going to trace it down from there, we should be armed with enough information. Um I Didn't find any silver bullets and Identifix for like common rub points or anything like that. Sometimes people post that stuff and that can be really handy. Um, there was a couple hits on, you know, people adding aftermarket, you know, trailer hitch wiring stuff like that.

So before we get super deep into it I did notice one thing and in the fact that it does have an aftermarket stereo, so that's you know something to think about. Uh, here's my thoughts: I grabbed us I don't even know what I grabbed this at this point. Oh I grabbed this in OEM wiring diagram which is important because they always show more detail than the color and I think I got us some stuff that we we should need. Um, so let's have a look at this.

So here's our OEM Let me move you guys back here a little bit. Here's our: OEM there's fuse 45 What comes down to this splice and we saw that on a wiring diagram but evidently Nissan doesn't use splice numbers but that goes off as connector E106 pin 7. feeds all the junk inside the car. Then the second leg comes down and feeds uh, the rear lights.

What it would be nice to know is put an amp clamp on this half and then put an amp clamp on this half to see where are we chasing. Are we going inside the car? We're going outside the car. So I'm hopeful that out here under the hood I'll move you guys over that we can find um, this connector e14 which I got us a diagram for see here connector e14 Which a connector should look like this which should be one of these little fellas I'm thinking um I'll find that for sure see two on top, three maybe not that one I'll find which connector is e uh, it's E14 I think it's this brown one here and then see if we can't find the correct pin number which is supposed to be 37. So it should be a red wire right next to so it should be this one right here.

that's what I'm assuming The Shred wire right here. That should be our one that's giving us grease and it would be nice to see where the splice is. It doesn't tell me how far away the splice is, but boy if it was right here, man, it would be super handy for us. I don't know if we're that lucky.

Um, let's throw an amp clamp around it. Let's make sure this is our wire and if it is, you know. Can we find the splice right here quickly or or near? You know, somewhere? It's going to be nice to us because it sure would be nice to know which branches which. Even though if we find this place I Don't know if we could identify which one goes where, we'd have to come up with another plan there.

But at least let's make sure we're on the right circuit. And to do that, we're going to use our advantage here. Using meter, we will put it on the 20 amp scale. We'll come down to graphing meter low Amps: 20.

zero it out. We're just going to hook it on this wire. We'll have it go in the wrong direction if we're doing it right. Test light here.

we should see 4 amp current draw show up ish four amp ish. Let me. uh, let me get something to extend this. We're going to keep jamming down the fuse box here I Love the heck dude.

that's your first day now. I Can see. Okay, let's stick that in there, that in there and we're doing it right because our amp clamps upside down. we'll flip it around zero.

The slope fell out here and there we are, we're drawing our 4.4 amps. Okay, so we know we got the right wire. Now we need to figure out can we break it down to individual legs I Know that's gonna head out and go to a splice somewheres. However, that's not going to be uh, fruitful for us to track down.

Okay, because we don't know which which slice goes where because I think it's the same size wire, the same color wire. which it doesn't tell me any different in here. This diagram says it's all red OE Diagram is of course all black and just circuit numbers. So this is what happens when you when you do things live.

You tend not to think all the way through, but we just do it. Tightening this place out here. Obviously it's not going to be very fruitful. Let's try to find the inside connector this other connector that we need to find this connector e105.

Okay, because when this wire here will I'll show you on the OEM diagram here we are under the hood. we know, let me get. We know for a fact right now that we have current flow right here. Obviously too much current flow because it blows the fuse And like I said, we need to know which way it's going If we find this connector this e105 that's after this place, we can.

We can measure the wire coming into Pin number seven connector e105 which I have a diagram for that foreign which is this big honky right here. Pin number seven that's the pin we need to find. We find a wire going into that, We put our amp clamp around it and we see what we have if we have a high current draw there. Well, then we narrowed it down to all right, nine or ten components.

We narrowed it down to all of these components. one of them, possibly or more. But um, let's do that. Let's find that and then if we have no current draw Hallelujah Because now we only have to deal with a lighting issue in the back.

I Know some people right now are disagreeing with me saying they would start unplugging stuff and plugging tail lights. you know, pulling out the aftermarket radio, just tearing the wiring. That's not how I do things I'm going to gather some data before we rip repair. Oh, there's enough to throw out here.

I believe I Found what we need to find I Just gotta identify if this is the harness I believe it is. Oh, look at this I need to see it should be second one in second row. Yes ma'am look at that. Guess who's been here? Oh Best Buy Um, it's got some hackery in the wiring.

This is the wire we're looking for. That green one with the black tape and the little white wire coming off from it. according to the diagram here is a wire wire connector, which that's what this is. 97 Pinner I Haven't counted them, but let me set you guys down and see.

uh if we have current draw on this wire I Think what we would be looking for actually to match this diagram would be the wire coming in. It's going to be the connector this connector here on the back side, but it's going to be a lot easier for just to get to this because it goes through that harness or through this into these individual connectors. and then because I bet that top connector that has, uh, let me see here. I'll show you select E105, which is the big connector here, right? Yep, so it's E105, that's one half of the connectors where that plugs in.

That little one we're looking at is probably this M77 which I think I might even have that here. Let me look. actually when I look up M77 it shows that same you know big style connector. Uh, so that's pretty interesting because this style connector I believe it all comes apart, but it's interesting that they they label it all as one one big connector.

that can be kind of deceiving I actually look past it at first because I thought it was just, you know, not the right one. But let's see, it's kind of. The sucky part is, we're dealing now. We're dealing with an aftermarket remote starter and an aftermarket radio.

Let me get our meter set up here again. I'm going graphing meter low amps. We're gonna turn this baby on. It'd be nice if we find right here because we'll just cut the damn wire.

Who cares? Turn the lights on. Let me make sure my test light's plugged in under the hood. It is. okay.

so I got our Teslate in place in the fuse. We'll clamp on this see if we see any current. Well if we do, we're going to see it on the white wire. That would give us a that would give us our answer right away.

Turn our headlights on. no current. Let me make sure the light is lit up. the light is lit up.

Let me go around the red wire now just to make sure because the white wire is only going to trace current back to the remote start. So now we're on that wire. Oh yeah, we got current draw inside the car. Gosh dang it darn.

I Want to go through this crap? Let me hook it up the right way here for you. I'm gonna miss about. Get on there. Okay, no it's not zeroed out.

We can zero it out before. I'll show you guys what the meter looks like. Okay so here we are. Here's the wire coming into the car and we're drawing our full four amps into the car.

However, the wire that would be really nice to get to would be this white one which we clip on that hoping our draw was there. We turn it on and it is not. There's no draw. Disregard that.

0.21 milliamps. Um, Well so that kind of sucks. We know our current's going up this wire theoretically. if we were able to unplug this I don't know if we are.

A lot of bigger wires run into it so we're not even going to fiddle with it. Just to prove a point, we could unplug this or cut that wire in. Our tail lights would work. So We at least know that we know that the short is inside the car on a host of components.

Any component. Pick a component. I'm going to start with the aftermarket radio. Um, just because that's the most feasible.

But hopefully you guys seen how we just broke down the system. I'll show you again on a piece of paper. and that's the beauty of using you know, a light bulb in place of a shorted fuse and then following the current. Because essentially, let me just give you a some of you guys like it when I tell you what I'm thinking we just gotta think of the Light Magic pixels.

The Pixies here is you know the electricity is coming in this fuse and it wants to find its way back to the battery. I Mean that's that's how electron slow when they come in. Actually, if there's some ding, Dong's gonna call us out, right? They they go from negative to positive. That's how concur flow goes.

But in theory and the way all the tools are built, the current flows from positive to negative. Okay, let's just get it out of the way. nobody really cares. Um, so our current comes in.

electrons come in across the fuse, and then they're trying to go, you know, across this light bulb and then make their way back to the battery. You know, if the battery's here, you know. Plus and minus, The octatons are always trying to flow. Usually the load is expelled across the bat or across the uh, you know the Bob or whatever the load is and then you know back to the battery.

But when you know one of these wires or components is shorted to ground, you go through. that's getting back to the battery. but the current draws So freaking High it blows a few. so we're found.

Current flow down the wire and the current flow right now is going down this way and then down this way and this is where we measured it. It's not going out here. We know that because all four and a half amps are coming in here and one of these components or one of these wirings is shorted. which kind of sucks.

Aftermarket radio Number one suspect on my list. Actually, the number one suspect was the Best Buy added remote start which we know that's not it unless they tapped into it somewhere else which I'll look up that wire but I wouldn't think that they would have. So the problem is I don't know how it pulls this aftermarket junk out. It's dusty and stuff.

It looks like it's just as old as anything else in the car. so I would think it would work, but you never know. It is a big jump to conclusion. uh thing here.

I'll see if I can come up with a more methodical way to trace this out, but I think we're at the the component level of tracing unfortunately. But let me just think about this for a minute. So I pulled up the little Center trim piece here I'm going to try to get the hazard switch unplugged. Oh, there we go.

So now we have this out of the way. and of course, you know a host of electrical gizmos here. Let's see if this is a Pro job or a homeowner job here. I Was hoping that we could just look uh, Semi-Pro maybe I Do see.

Uh, wire nuts. Got the classic classic wire nuts. You know we use them all the time in automotive I wanted to see looks like it's got a couple screws here up in the top. probably some down below this heater panel too I would imagine and I'm not sure if this just pops out down here.

Oh I think it does. So let's have a look down here and this is not a big fat waste of time because because it said it's not, no, because this is interesting. um, a lot of this stuff runs off that same illumination so we can. You know if we take this out, if the radio is just a smoke screen here for us, we can still test.

We got the hazard switch I think was on that list the HVAC lights here on the list I Believe the shift indicator lights were on the list. so like I say it's not a big fat waste of time because we can check current Florida These items. let's grab. Uh, we're gonna call it a Phillips head because that upsets people so that's what we're going to call it.

Might be a JIS but nobody really cares. It's not like we're trying to split the case on a 1960s Kawasaki motorcycle or something. You know he's just going to plastic so we're gonna screw these and then hopefully, uh, slide this radio out here and get a little look-see at the wire nut job that's going on. Like I said, it may just be a smokescreen for us.

Another red herring. Wow. A car with two red herrings on the same circuit. Can you believe that? Let's see here.

there's that. Let's put these down here in the air. Street Sticking too. Okay, so we'll take this out.

These Eyes Line: T about the wire nuts. but I'm not. oops. Ah, crap.

all their stuff on the floor. Oh okay, so here is what we need. The red wire, not the red wire on the radio. Okay, I thought the orange wire on these things was illumination.

It is. So this wire is not even hooked up. so it likely unless this is the wrong adapter here. find out which pin this goes into here.

Well just go like this. We don't even need to put that idiot. oh guess what? Our test laid outside under the hood isn't lighten up anymore. Oh, it's something else.

Uh, stand by folks. Let me go make sure my test light's still plugged in. Good! so you turn that on, radio's plugged in. Our test light is no longer lit and we have Market lights.

Well, no plate lights but they might be blown. but we got both three marker lights. Um gosh I hope you didn't move something. I mean obviously we on a couple other components but if we move the wire and this roster is short because what do we have here? We got the hazard switch and we have the audio unit ac amplifier which I think is just.

it's like a colored bag right? I think it's just the heater control backlighting right? Our Vcd off switch I think that's that AC amplifier. So let's do this all right. How come we have two red herrings on the same video same wire? I Actually shut that off a minute. Let me stick you guys down to come to find out it's neither one of them freaking items, Huh? I'm just going to turn the key on so we don't have to listen to the dang beeper.

Okay, so our Tesla is not lit. Let's plug in our hazard lights. see if that's our short? Nope. so it's not our hazard light switch.

so the only other thing, Wait a minute, we didn't. We never unplug the heater unit. son of a crap biscuit. Um oh you know what idiot.

I bet it's just right here. Look I didn't even notice that when I pulled it out. Ah, look, you guys see that wire? see how you buy these things and they come pre-stripped This thing's got a big old freaking kink in it. Watch this.

Let me go down here and short it out on a piece of metal, which is probably where it was. It would have shorted out on the radio itself. Probably because this is probably grounded. Oh, look at that.

It lights up our test light. They use wire nuts and everything and we're this close. That is your problem lady. That's why because the only thing we had unplugged that's on that circuit list is the four ways which we plugged in.

We proved it sent right I did not look. this is my fault I Did not look to see where this is, but it has an obvious and clear you know hitch in. its giddy up. so it.

and there's a lot of metal. you know, bracing here in the dash. So let me show you how to fix this car. not wiper.

Oh, they got the wiper transmission unhooked. That's weird. So here is how we fix this one folks. We'll just give that the classic bend over foreign Yeah.

I should have looked in there a little closer when I was looking from the top. Of course you can only see. you know so much. Give it the old pinch, you know, pinch and burn.

There we go. now. the wire can no longer offend. Wow.

we found it using logic. Hooray! Come on. give us a little snippy snip. sniffy snippy.

Oh I'll hold this up by the way for us. that's for our four ways. Yeah, you know. And and the thing is like, yeah, this could be an old radio install probably is.

and this wire was probably back here chillaxing for a long time. And then you hit the overarrows tracks just right one time and guess what, it's only got to just barely rub a piece of metal so we'll just shove all them wires back in there. Not a big radio install guy and uh, you know they probably never thought it was a big deal. They may have even said hey, what's the big deal Yeah, they just left that wire unused and that is it.

Finally bit them in the behind one day when it ran over and bumped into something metal. But anyhow, at least we got it fixed for the other shop. Now they've got a lot of work to do. The whole back end of this car is all toward the pieces.

but um, I guess in their defense, without the proper wiring diagram, where are you going you know? and it's labeled tail light fuse and you would think being a 10 amp I would probably guessed the same thing I Wouldn't have thought it was the entire interior illumination circuit either. but if you don't know until you look I Guess there's that. We'll take this little guy here. We never unplugged it.

Gonna give that a little click to do. Plug that thing in. It's not not a super good install, but not our problem either. Sorry for all the mic bumping what's going on there.

They just had this kind of ran around town so plug this back in. Got that going again? This wire was on top. This was just. this was already kind of tweaked out like that.

I Do remember that because that's what gave me the glue to pull this thing out so it does not fit good across through here. But again, not my problem. and now we should have illuminations on the inside here. Yep, we do.

You can see everything lights up down there. Our test light no longer lights because it's less than the entire load of the whole circuit. so current flows through it without lighting it up. So let me put this trim on down here on the side.

Over here down here we'll throw a fuse in it and then we'll go fix this junk. Chevy that we're sitting next to. Hooray! Let's see. this is always impressive.

They can't see me doing my fancy walk over here. They can be part of it. Oh yeah, they are. That's right.

Bobbing like this. We got it. I Didn't doubt you. Two smoke screens on this car.

Two aftermarket radio, aftermarket remote start. You must be a magician I need some dubs and I found it. Fixed it. Good job! I'm so impressed.

Remember what we talked about I am so impressed I think it was better that I didn't think you could do it and I'm impressed that you did or that I never thought you couldn't let me think about that one I know we just come in for a little praise. Appreciate it. Thanks No, that's all right. Thanks.

Yeah, everything is put back together. We'll kick that man. Our illuminations laid up down there. um, back leg probably didn't change because we don't have the key on.

probably a couple blown plate lights, my tail light there, and of course everything in the front. They said they were going to finish putting them back in together so they'll have to put all the Imports and pieces in. So hooray, that's it. I Guess we're done.

We finished. We fixed it there. You have it folks tracing out the short in the parking light circuit I guess if you'll call it on your Nissan Rogue Um, hopefully you guys understood a little bit about, you know, substituting a load in place of the fuse Chase it down. um like I say you know the electrons are always trying to make it back to the back to the battery.

Um, and we can use our amp clamp to find out what wire they're running down, Especially in a design like this where we have two branches coming off. you know what? That splice one going through all the interior crap and the other one going to the back. Now if we went on the inside down there where we first checked into that E105 or wherever that connector number was that big connector with the uh, the white wire coming out of it, there were spliced thin if we went there and let's just say there was nothing, which that would have been fine too. That tells us none of the Interior components are the culprit.

In which case we would have went to the back, threw our amp clamp on there, and seen, do we have current drawback here and then uh, or at least you know which wire is Flowing current because it's going to be flowing somewhere until it hits that short and then you know right back to the battery. Um, you know it's completing that Loop So that that's how we did that, and you got to know the circuit design a little bit before you go shove. You know, a big high amp load in there. You certainly could have put like a you know, regular test light, a three-quarter amp.

You know, test light or you know, one amp depending on the circuit design, but just know how much current draw it is. Check it with your current clamp, make sure the circuit design can handle that much load and if it can, then just start chasing it where you can that. We're very fortunate on this to have an Ipvm that we could pull out and the connectors, you know, accessible. That's great because we don't tear the whole fuse box apart and then we were fortunate again to go on the inside and have that connector you know, bolt in your face like boom, you know and we could get to that red wire.

and then they have a little smoke screen throw up there in front of us or red herring if you will and see that white wire going up like. ah, here we go. We got it. Smoking Gun Throw a clamp around it.

Nope, that's not it. Aftermarket remote starts their garbage, but not the problem on this car and then go to the next most logical thing, which was the aftermarket radio, which probably has not been a problem for a lot of years. So that's kind of neat. You know that wire was probably just sitting there and then somehow found its way on that 64th of an inch of exposed wire to get to a metal bracket? So what are you going to do? Follow the facts folks.

don't go just ripping and tearing. You know, try to come up with a logical process. Get a diagram. I've got I've done a video on where I get my information from.

It's available to everybody, at least in the U.S you know Mitchell Protoman Identifix All data all available to the public and then not to mention every single OEM subscription out there. Uh, you know you can get Nissan for there three days or a month. and it's pretty affordable if you're if you're trying to track this down yourself. so that's it.

No good transition, comments, questions, concerns while you're down there subscribed to ends the Facebook. You guys know where to find us just from our viewers. I Can do it. You can do it.

Thanks for watching foreign.