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Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Check this thing out! 2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Super Sport Classic. Look at this bad unit right here. Very very nice looking car. You don't see many of these things anymore.

Uh customer States The vehicle overheated. They found the coolant was low. so uh, we're gonna swing this thing inside I'm not gonna drive it because it came in overheating and I do not want to, uh, risk additional overheat events. What's our odometer? Tell us? 74 835 miles on a 2007.

this thing's clean I wonder if it's for sale. Sunroof Full power leather interior. This is a nice car. This was nice I mean it's nice today.

This thing was mint back in the day. all original looking. Oh low tire pressure. Let's get on in here backing up the auto.

Let's go ahead and get this bad boy in the shop Popsy! Hood And to see what we've got to work with I Believe this is equipped with a 3.8 liter V6 transverse mounted front-wheel drive. bulletproof of an engine like these. Uh, the series two and Series three, three eights, uh, three ones and three fours were a phenomenal platform. Backing up, backing up, we're going straight in on the little big lift.

We're gonna back it up to the wall. I Got a feeling I'm gonna be under the hood and as per my normular protocol around here, I don't like to work on under the hood Ed forward because there's not a whole boatload of space between the wall and the rack. so we're just going to do this in reverse. It's kind of the the way it's been going down lately.

backing up, backing up and we'll leave enough space to get it on the rack if we need to. I Think we're good right here. Parking's the auto part down and of course popping in. Z Hood What do we have here under the Monty bonnet? Yepper, it's a 3 8 series three.

Okay, so first things first. we were talking about overheating. So let's go ahead and pop the radiator cap. see what we've got going on down here? Oh, that's not good.

That's not. Oh, that's nasty. Look at that oil. Yeah.

I Don't know. Kind of. yeah, it smells like oil. Gross.

All right. Okay, yeah, looking a little farther down in there. uh, we can see there is in fact coolant, but it's a little low and probably displaced with oil. so we need to figure out how that oil got in there.

Now this being a Series 2 Gmv6 of about 900. Positive that it's communicating at the lower intake manifold gasket set, you see. Uh, See right down there next to that little coolant elbow thing that's our leaker. you can see oil running out of it.

I Also understand there was oil dripping down below and uh, I think this intake is our primary offender. Yeah, I See some more over here? Oh yeah, there's a whole bunch of it right down there. See that down there? Okay So we've got the classic lower intake symptom going on with this. uh, this particular.

uh V6 Okay, let me go ahead and estimate this repair and uh, see what our guy wants to do. We'll go from there. so stay tuned because this is gonna be a very good video opening. Z Hood All right I'm back.
Verdict is in. We're gonna go ahead and dive into this thing. We're gonna pull the upper intake, all the plumbing motor mounts I Think coils have to come off I know the wires come out. Uh I think I can get away with leaving the alternator here? Maybe maybe not, but we're going to go down past this upper intake, get to that lower intake, pop that thing off the engine, clean it up, reseal it, and reassemble.

I've got some parts on the way, so uh, let's get to it because this might be a long kind of video. It's about a six hour job. All right. Let's get started.

Uh, battery's already disconnected. We're gonna start from beginning. Start pulling off some of these sensors here, and then, uh, we'll pop this uh, intake tube and air filter out and work our way over towards the manifold. We'll get all this supporting equipment, wiring, harnesses, and whatnot removed, and then we can unbolt this intake.

That's going to be the order of operations. Pull this guy out, grab it right here, and just kind of slide. Come on now. I'm off.

There we go. Okay, that's our tube. Come up and out. So one of my most favorite things about this particular job is you can do most of it with a pocket screwdriver and a 10 millimeter.

You can get pretty far with just, uh. just those two tools. Anyway, right now, I'm pulling off the throttle cables so it's disconnected. We'll just set those aside.

Let's go ahead and disconnect our clips for our wiring harnesses. That one there. that one there. got a vacuum line right here.

Let's pop that guy out. Don't need that for right now. Okay, going a little farther back. we've got a fuel line right here.

Let's get that guy disconnected. Come on. Begin with the pocket driver fuel line removed and coming around. We've got one more fuel line here and this Evap line right here.

Let's just pop that guy off next. Come on you here. Or I'll take the whole assembly. Why not? There we go.

That's even better. Fuel line Number two. Push that in. Push it in right here.

That's that. whole harness can then be set aside right up here. There we go. Okay, right in front of us, we've got a couple more connectors.

These ones are for the fuel injectors. All this stuff has to come off. Pop that one. This one right here that's going to come apart on your kick and we can get to that third and our second injector right here.

Pop that. guy loose. wiggle it. Come on.

Oh, got it. Here's the connector. We need to lose that one. one more injector on the other side.

you've never been removed before. Got that one map sensor. Next one. Loom harness right over here.

You guys see that you can't one connector there and we've got this big connector over here. I'll go ahead and detach this and then we can take this whole harness and flop it over to that side. Let's push this little rocker locker thing down, rocker locker and that disconnects and we can unconnect it from the support beam here. Now this all moves off to the side.
I'm probably going to pull this engine mount out to get more wiring, harness space, and we'll just keep tucking everything away from the engine until we can get down to uh, down to the good. All right. Moving around back I pulled off three more fuel injector connectors. We've got to lose this.

uh, alternator connector right here. So let's pop that guy out again. Pocket Screwdriver We have needed no tools except for this so far. and uh, that's a that's a 13 mil.

Okay, so foot and mouth I needed something besides a 10. early on. No worries though. Tuck that aside.

All right. I'm preparing to start on bolting this, uh, upper intake, but we've got a little bracket Shield thing here for the EGR valve. We need to pull this, off. 10 millimeter bolt right here and that's full gravity.

Don't worry I know where it went. There's another one right down here. So what? I'll do. Pull this Shield thing out I'll put the bolt back in it and we'll set that aside.

Now we're getting somewhere which is straight down because we have to pull the fuel rail and the injectors out of this thing. The bolts for this upper intake are captured by the fuel rail, so it's It's very much in the way. It's just four bolts. pull that next one down, two over four nuts, two here, and then two over here.

on the other side, there's that one and number four down up gravity down. off to the right. There she is. Oh, we need to get these uh, spark plug wires out of the way too.

I think at some point. yeah, here's one of those bolts that's uh, captured by the rail. Do you see that thing down there? We won't be able to access those with this fuel rail in place. So let's Pop That Thing Up Next Real easy peasy.

We're gonna pull this out with a pry bar just gonna get under it, apply some up pressure and the ejectors pop right out of their home. There's a second one and looks like the rear side already started to come up, so the fuel rail is uh now free and loose and we'll slide this guy right on out. Okay, let's go ahead and back up and we're gonna pull these spark plug wires out and remove all this stuff now. I'm gonna put some plug wires in this because this stuff is, uh, all.

OE So I can just go ahead and pull these guys out. We'll run them through the motor mount and just get these out of the way completely and talk to your driver to save the day because these wires are captured by a little clip here. We'll pop the clip I don't even know if you guys can see and we'll set that aside and reuse it later. Okay wires coming through.

You got to do these. Uh, sort of one at a time because if not, the boots will all jam up together and get caught behind this engine mount right here and then, uh, then you can't pull them through. Same thing when installing them. you can't send it through in like a bunch so that's out of the way.
Uh, these front Bank wires are not a problem right now. So I'm just going to leave those on the spark plugs and we'll come back to those after the top of this engine is stripped down. Put those down there for later. Bye Okay, we do not have much holding this.

uh, upper intake back on. We've got a couple bolts, four and four and then this little guy right here is. so there's one. There's probably yeah, one.

there and one there. So let's pull all these bolts out and get this thing popped out of position. 10 millimeter coming in. Ah, the nut didn't come off the bolt.

came with it. See that. that's fine. There's another 10 mil over here on this side deep well I can't reach it.

wobbly socket change now I can reach it. Get rid of that one. That's one of the long ones. All right.

let's run through and get all the bolts holding down this, uh, upper manifold. This unit will be reused. We don't have to put a new one on it unless it's broken. Oh, you know what? I think I forgot a couple Fasteners up there by the throttle body I need to go and check on that before.

I try to pry this thing up. That's how we break stuff. Put those aside. one more little guy back here and let's go up front to the throttle body and check that for bolts.

Yeah, yeah, we've got a bracket right here and there might be another one on the other side. Okay, all right, let's get that guy down there next. Unclick. It's tight.

Okay, that is no matter. I'll break it Loose Uh, manually on pickage. good now. I'll spin you out okay.

and I think I think that's it. Yeah, she should be free. It's a little captured by this bracket, but we can work around that not very carefully. Let's back up some okay.

Get a hold of this guy. We're gonna tilt it up and forward past that little bracket. She's free I think and we'll slide it under this little harness right here. Begin sliding.

Oh, hang on. The uh. vacuum hose for the booster is hanging me up. I Think that like every time.

if every time I forget to take off my hoses. Okay, so here's our lower intake assembly. We have to pull this guy off next because our gaskets are on the side here. on the side here.

And then there's another set of gaskets that bolt this thing to the cylinder heads so we've got to pull all that stuff off. Also, look way down. inside of there. we can see the intake valves on all the runners.

Very nice. So next up, we need to lose the EGR tube right here. this bracket for the Nader and I don't know if I have to pull that alternator out or not. Uh, I may I may not.

We'll uh, we'll determine that in a moment. So here, let's go ahead and spray this CGR tube with some penetrating lubricant and while that's soaking in a little bit more, we'll go ahead and pull this bracket off Over here. this is a 10 mil and a 15 over here. Pull off that nut.
Unmix this. Come on bracket now. I Can move this harness out of the way a little bit a little bit farther there we go now. I Don't think we have to, but I'm going to remove this bracket right here as well because it's going to be a really tight squeeze to try to get this intake out of here.

I Think I could sneak it out without pulling these off. It's just two more bolts, so why not? What gotcha there? We go. All right. it's been a few minutes.

Let's work on this. uh EGR tube real quick. Unclick that a little more right here. That was Moose and we'll go ahead and pull these guys out there.

We go. slide that guy back and this should just wiggle up and out of here. Kind of a kind of a tight squeeze, but it comes out good thing this is a flexi pipe and uh oh, come on, you don't make a liar out of me. let's try the other side.

I Will pry bar you here. it comes. Flashlight There we go, Got her? That's gonna be fun to put back later. All righty.

Next, remove this harness aside again, lose that connector and we're going to pull this thermostat housing out of here. Nope. here. we'll try a different 10.

that one's not working. That one is. come on. All right.

Got one super toy? Oh yeah it is. Holy Smokes Come on there we go. No, it's not super tight. Come here All right.

Oh, by the way, I've also, uh, sucked out a bunch of the coolant. We're still gonna get some spillage, but the level should be down pretty low. Thermostats jump. That's nasty.

Yeah, yeah. look all that oil on there. It's made this soft. and Squishy So I'm gonna put a thermostat in this as well.

Oily coolant is not good. Oh, speaking of oil and coolant, there are, uh, well, the passages are down inside of these gaskets for oil and coolant pass through and uh, when we remove this intake, whatever coolant is, uh, present within this intake is going to spill down into the, uh, the rocker arm Valley where the push rods are and it's going to contaminate the engine oil. So it is mandatory that we, uh, replace the engine oil and do a very thorough oil change after uh, finishing this procedure. so we're almost ready to, uh, go ahead and start to unbolt this lower.

but I'm going to remove this torque Mount over here. it's not exactly necessary, but it'll give me a little bit more space to maneuver. So I am going to go ahead and pull this guy out. I'm gonna do is Break These Nuts Loose and pull these bolts out on these torque mounts.

There's one number two right here. foreign nut gravity. Come here. Save the Day All right.

there's one torque mount. Put that bolt back in there so it doesn't have to get lost. There we go. We have two more 15 millimeter bolts.
It's going to hold on this aluminum housing and that's what I want to get out of the way here and a 15. I'm sorry 13. over here on the other side and I think that one's yeah, 13 as well. Break those loose, zip them out.

Number two, Switch it out to the 13. and then we can pull this plastic plastic. We can pull this aluminum bracket out of position. Wow.

I'm so used to cars being made out of plastic that when I find metal Parts I don't know what to call them. That's a that's a new one. Um, okay, so listen, this wiring harness right here is bothering me and I don't like it. So I am going to go ahead and pull this Mount out as well.

That way I can just toss this all the way over and get it out of the way so I can maneuver this uh, lower intake manifold off the engine. Okay, that's out of the way. We'll just slide that right on over. and now we've got a lot more space to, uh, maneuver ourselves around over here and we're gonna need that.

I'm not going to hide this one too far. That's an easy one to forget that's a coolant temp sensor. Leave that attached here I upped it to the 3 8 impact. that's more better.

Oh these guys. I Think that's not all of them. I'll show you what I mean in just a moment. Whoa.

All right. So you see how this corner had two right here and here. that corner head too. You're ever doing this particular job.

All four corners have two bolts. Okay, now the ones that we didn't see are actually hidden inside of that pool of oil right about here. Yeah, got it. Watch this.

It's in there. Yeah, that's the sneaky one. There's another sneaky one right here in this pool of oil. There, it is.

okay. Now that lower should be completely unbolted. It's not disconnected because there is a coolant bypass elbow right here. That little, uh, little plastic elbow.

Again, if you're ever doing this job, you're gonna need to buy that because you will not be able to take this thing off and reuse or even remove this without breaking. That Elbow Right there. it's going to be brittle and old and it's going to crack and it's going to break. If you try to reuse it, you're probably going to crack it and damage it and then you won't realize until you put coolant in the thing and it leaks out and you're doing the same job all over again because you can't get that thing installed without either removing this lower or removing this entire accessory.

Drive bracket. Okay, so to break this thing loose, we're just going to get a pry bar under it right here. Give it a little bit of up if it does not break free very Loosely then that's going to tell us that we missed a bolt. Nice.

So it's free. Now what we need to do is angle it up. slide it that way because we have to pull the intake outside or off of that little elbow that's in there. So all we got to do is hold this up one hand.
We'll go behind it over here with the pry bar and just slide it on over. This is pretty much the procedure to reinstall, but you'll have to be very careful while doing it because this part because there are gaskets and seals right here on the edge of this, uh, engine block. And here's our little elbow. Like I just mentioned, it has become broken.

So we need to extract this guy and it has disintegrated. So now we need to break it apart and pluck the pieces out of this water jacket right here. because that thing's not gonna. it's not gonna come out here.

Let's try the needle nose treatment here. Maybe if I wiggle it, it'll break loose. No, it's just gonna break. Okay, so I need to remove this thing in pieces.

That's how that's going to work. Nice. All right. let's try the pocket screwdriver method.

I Just need to kind of get behind it and dig the thing out. It's yeah, that's in there. Okay, come on out of there. It's just going to come out in pieces.

That's how it's going to be. Yeah, we're just gonna keep on scraping away until we kind of dig a hole through that plastic. Yeah, oh, you know what? You guys are gonna be mad at me for something I Better protect that Valley So little plastic pieces don't fall into there. All right.

we're kind of close. I Chipped away a bunch of it. Yeah, there we go. She's coming out.

Okay, no, that's half of it. There's more in there. Yeah, there's a whole. There's a whole other piece down in there.

That's the piece with the seal on it. It's actually what I didn't want to happen I Wanted it to come out kind of as a whole piece. Oh, here it comes. There's the seal.

That's the O-ring Get rid of that. and then more chunks of plastic. Get rid of that. All right.

That's all of them. That's all the pieces here we go. Good to go. All right.

A little bit of sandpaper in there to clean up my scratches and any of the debris or whatever that is stuck on that ceiling surface. because that new piece that goes in is, uh, gonna have an o-ring on it. And we can't have a screwdriver, scratches, or pry marks, or plastic chunks getting in the way. so we've got to clean that up.

Very nice. Like that's better. This is actually like a twisty sander for porting cylinder heads. There we go.

That's nice. Come here. Cool, nice and smooth. We're good to proceed.

Now let's get this out of here. There's some trash on it. Okay, all right, let's go ahead and do a 180 real quick and we're gonna check out this. uh, lower intake manifold.

We're going to clean this thing up, but I Want to go over the gaskets and everything on this unit first. So we've got the the gasket here. This one goes against the cylinder head, between the manifold, another one on the other side. Right here.
we've got a coolant passage, coolant passage and I think there's another one. Yeah, not that one. that's not a coolant passage. This one.

that's not a passage either. So yeah, there's There's just the two passages through it. but we can see right here see the gasket. It is coming up our and deteriorating.

so this thing cannot hold back the coolant. That same thing right here because these passages are present on the cylinder head. So anyway, this is the area right here where the coolant and the oil can communicate causing the mixture of that oil sludgy coolant business going on there. So we are going to remove these units and get rid of them.

These orange guys. Those are the uh, the block seals. and although those do not think coolant, uh, once this thing's deteriorated to a position where we do see oil leaking out of the side of the block here, then we know that the interior gaskets have also failed. So those are gone.

We'll get rid of these things in the trash. We no longer need those now. What we need to do is go back to our engine, clean up all of our ceiling surfaces, and we will prepare for reassembly. All right.

I Have wheeled over the Shop Vac and we're gonna go ahead. power this guy on, and we're gonna clean out all this nonsense down here. Get rid of all this debris, everything that fell down inside the valley. right here.

We'll get rid of all the dirt, all these little plastic chunks, etc. etc. Three: Why did you do that? Before you took everything apart, You're contaminating the engine. All right.

that's pretty good for now. Shop Vac powering down. Okay cleaning. Phase two: Spray some, uh, penetrating oil on everything.

Oil is an excellent cleaner. By the way. There we go. Let that soak in.

All nice, like like that turkey. I Broke my leg. So now we're in a position where we can go over this thing with a towel, clean off as much of this nasty as we can, make it nice and shiny. Get that side.

You'll often find that there's some silicone sealant on these, uh, engine block ridges and that must be picked away as well. No debris. Nice and clean. There we go.

Very nice. shiny. I Mean it's not shiny yet, but we're getting There contaminating the oil. No, you're gonna ruin the lifters.

Have no fear. I've done this once or twice. Go back over it again. Wipe it down.

I Think we have all the debris. It's still pretty rough. the ceiling surface on the cylinder heads. I'm going to go over this with a light light abrasive wheel and clean up the rest of this stuff.

It's it. didn't clean up like I wanted it to. We see all the witness marks from the old gasket that's uh, that's actually raised and it is scrape offable so we're gonna get rid of that too. Going back in.

Okay, we're going to use a Pneumatic Little Ziz Wheel tool with these little fingery bristles and uh, that's going to help to polish off all those deposits. A lot of noise is incoming here. Let's go over here and see a little bit better. You're a little closer to the action actually.
I've changed my mind I'm not going to use the bristly type, just the abrasive wheel type because I don't want those bristles to fly off and end up in the engine foreign spot at the same time Shiny. There we go, that's looking good. Beautiful, nice, clean surfaces. Oh fun fact: This is part of the head gasket right here.

See that little gasket right there? That's head gasket. This is head gasket. Uh, in case you're interested, the lifters are down here in the block and right here. here.

here here and all the way across. On that side, those are the push rods for the rocker arms and this is the balancing shaft. Red shaft. Okay, Beautiful.

So here's what we're gonna do next. I'm gonna get the vacuum back out and the blow gun and we're gonna go through and blow out these intake ports while sucking everything out with a vacuum. And it's going to stir up any debris that's made its way inside of there and then extract it from those ports. That way it can't enter the cylinder head or the combustion chamber.

Rather, excuse me. Combustion chamber. All right. There we go.

Okay, Next on the list is get rid of any contaminants that are hanging out here in the intake. Valley I Like that little piece of dirt right there and that we're just going to go ahead and wash that right on down into the engine. This is the part where some of you guys are really going to lose it. We're just gonna dump some oil on everything that we sprayed off.

Rinse it all down real nice. Like dump it down into the oil pan because later you can drain everything back out. Goodbye debris. This vacuuming will only go so far.

Gotta rinse that stuff. add a little bit more Over here. on this side. There we go.

Nice. Now The valley is clean. The heads are clean, the intake ports are clean, Everything right here is clean. And in order to keep it clean, let's just toss some towels in here just in case anything gets blown back into this engine compartment.

We don't, uh, contaminate our clean sections. stuff some of these inside of the ports, stuff that one in there, stuff that one in there. stuff that one in there. Good to go.

Okay, let's go ahead and clean up the intake manifold next. and then we can continue to prepare this for reassembly. So let's get out of here. move back over to the manifold and the oil drain.

All right, let's go ahead and perform a similar procedure right here on our lower intake manifold. Between all this nasty off of here, foreign, a little bit more, there we go. Super shiny, too weak. Let's give this thing a little bit more spray, get rid of the micro deposit, and then we'll inspect it for any missed, uh, cement or gasket material.
Get all this oil and stuff off of here too and we can clean the ports out. So this is the bottom side. We still have some cleansing to do on the top side. Another okay flip: See why I'm doing this in the oil drain that way I don't have to mop up all this nasty that I have a that I've created here.

Continuing Decontamination All right, we're getting there I don't know where we're getting to, but we're getting there. Thank you. Yep, we're getting more shinier I missed the spot. Just another spot.

Yeah, that's all like carbon buildup and stuff. You gotta. you gotta get rid of that. It has some thickness to it.

Now over here. this area is particularly important. Particularly important words because these two holes right here are coolant passages. and if, uh, if there's a bunch of pitting here or you don't get all that super clean, then that coolant's actually going to leak out and it'll just run into the intake and then, uh, you'll be running on coolant and dumping coolant into your oil.

Um, causing a failed repair. That would be bad putting the EGR tube out while I'm here a little bit. Nope. I'm out.

All right next. I've got to go in with the low pressure brake. lean. just a hose.

The rest of this all down. it is clean as we can. Actually, this one's particularly nasty. I might take this off and pressure wash it.

Yeah, it's cleaning up. Okay, just my solvent us can make it look shiny. Yummy. We broke a lot of debris loose so this definitely needs to be, uh, kind of hosed out so to speak.

All right, let's go ahead and let this thing dry. We'll wipe it down again later on. actually. Uh, speaking of later on, Um I don't have my parts yet for this thing.

so I don't have my gasket set, don't have much so uh, it's five o'clock and I think I'm about to a packed to show up and get on out of here and go home. So uh, that being said, as always I'm gonna go ahead and thank you guys for watching this video I Hope you enjoyed this video if you did enjoy this video. I Really hope to see you over on part two I will have that out as soon as possible. So that being said before I go off on some crazy ramble tangent tangent which again and as always, thank you guys for watching this video.

and most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later in the transmission.

100 thoughts on “Oil in radiator! 2003 chevy monte carlo 3.8 manifold leak!”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars wolfguardian says:

    Jeesus Mary & Joseph…what a job ….A gallon of gas and a road flare would have been the fix 'fer that GM….I had one of those have a failure just like that…Fu*kn GM Junk….I was a GM lover 'fer years, bought nothing but GM products…..That failure sure changed my mind on those engines….What a nightmare pull'n that thing apart 'n re assembling that was….

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mason Estes says:

    My 05 pathfinder keeps showing P0340 “camshaft position sensor A circuit Bank 1 or single sensor “ is what it says. It shows this same code 3 times along with 2 torque converter codes. I bought a coil pack but see the old one is difficult to get to. Am I on the right path or is it telling me to replace O2 sensor ? Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated. It’s my way to work everyday. Thanks man.. LOBE THE VIDEOS!!

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! King GamingCC says:

    Hey Ray i figured out a handy home made tool for removing the broken elbows easier just get a flathead screwdriver and put the tip in a vice and bend it slightly and it will have perfect leverage

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Phil King says:

    Please buy a parts wash!

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Notyourdaddystoast says:

    did this exact procedure on my 98 camaro with the series 2 3.8L and like 8mo later it fucked up again and seized the engine

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Madd Dawg says:

    Please explain ignition Dwell.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Listening with Jack says:

    One of my favorite engines. I had a 97 Firebird with the Series II and a 5-speed, what a fantastic combination. It was my mobile office and I retired it after 10 years and around 225k miles. In that time I did a water pump, clutch, belt tensioner and wiper assembly. I gave it to my SIL and he played with it for a few more years. One of the best engines of all time.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hugh Jass says:

    I always do valve covers and lower intake as a package on these cars, and replace those coolant elbows with aluminum updated ones because those plastic ones almost always break or crumble.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BR549 says:

    I've found that so much of the rubber and plastic parts coming from China don't even have half the life span as parts made in this country. Certainly the manufacturers know this, but I guess their thinking is that it will bring in more money in the service departments. 😎

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Fix Falcon says:

    Years ago I worked at a quick lube shop. Seeing a GM 3.8L with chocolate milk in the coolant overflow tank was a daily occurrence. LOL.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars rob Rob says:

    Must congratulate Ray on your most excellent vids, very concise and obviously knows where he's at. As someone across the pond though it is funny watching, with all the US connotations and differences in parts names from over here. One thing I don't understand though, as others have mentioned, especially in this vid, is the use of so much brake dry clean (BDC) for parts off the car. It obviously works very well for you, just thought there may be other options? Surely a HP parts washer would be much more effective option, cheaper in the long run and much more environmentally friendly? I also agree with another poster, a big drum of BDC and a spray bottle would surely be cheaper too than all those cans?

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars joe schmoe says:

    Very dangerous spraying that lube when the motor is exposed isn’t it? Post edit…okay I learned a lot after watching thanks

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matthew Root says:

    I'm getting ready to do this on my 03 SS Monte.I've got coolant leaving a puddle on my upper intake. Going ahead to do the lower intake gasket as well. Glad you did video on this. The others I've seen leave some things to question.

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gary Alford says:

    I would of probably changed the valve cover gaskets while in there !

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tango dad says:

    Thanks ray have a great day.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Wood says:

    Need to vacuum/ blow away the dirt/ debris before removing manifold assembly?

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars G Gordon says:

    Tip : Battery terminal brush works well for cleaning housing for that plastic elbow. Can get similar brush plumbing section box store. Cheers.

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars michael fogarty says:

    must be a similar motor that Holden GM commodore only mounted transverse 3800 v6

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars michael fogarty says:

    Isn't how most radiators work ; at home. Seriously though it is not a good feeling having oil in radiator something gone wrong.

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shawn Stamey says:

    I wonder if a lawn sprinkler riser extractor tool would work for that broken elbow

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jason Albright says:

    I think they are great engines. I got a 3.1 in a 2000 malibu bought it 17 years ago with 70k on it. I still drive to this day body isn't looking so great but runs like the day I bought it with 317,000 miles on it. Factory engine and trans. I replaced intake gaskets once at 130k. Getting ready to do a oil pan reseal on it but I plan on running it until it quits. Like always Great Video Ray.

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 1 fisherman 4 rods Dunn says:

    Had the same thing happen to me was replacing a pcv pipe to pcv valve on my Subaru. And the hose kept braking where eventually i was able to use an adjustable pliers. To extract the rest of the hose. Also had vacuum hoses where they had broken off where the connect. Especially underneath the intake manifold.

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MJB says:

    That model of Monte Carlo here in the rust belt can cause the frame in front of the driver's rear tire to rust through. The 3.8l intake manifolds on early models are famous for burning a hole in them. I used to work auto parts, and we sold one or two a month. I had family that I ended up changing two of them myself.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MotorheadRedo says:

    Nice car

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Peter says:

    One of the easiest engines to work on is the 3.8 and the most durable. I had a 97 Bonneville that started losing power and started overheating when I was 150 miles from home, I made it to my destination, after a couple of hours I started home everything was fine until it happened again, I pulled off the highway and managed to slowly get the radiator cap off, there was zero coolant in it, the gas station and it was onky a gas statiin no service had an outside water faucet for a hose and the guy let me get as much water as I needed, i had a 32 ounce cup filled up the system kept the cap loose and proceeded on home about 100 miles. I made it home an a few blocks from my house the car started bucking like crazy, pulled into my driveway and that was it she stalled out and would not crank. I went to a me mechanic friend of mine and told him what happene, a guy working with him said that I'd better get home remove the spark plugs and crank the engine because to him it sounded like it was hydrolocked, I removed the plugs cranked it and it was like geyser, I did some research and found that the upper intake was the culprit and there was an improved design, AutoZone had it in stock, installed it changed the oil which did not have coolant in it filled it up with water to start and hoped for the best, there was an impressive amount of smoke that filled my yard but when the smoke cleared the engine ran great like nothing ever happened a testament to the durability of the 3.8. I mistakenly sold the car to my friends girlfriend who proceeded to slowly wreck it. I now have a 2001 lesabre with 320,000 miles that's going strong, I checked the spark plugs to see if they needed replacing but they are in perfect condition, no signs of oil burning or anything, they're all clean as a whistle, so far she's never left me stranded even after owning it for ten years now.

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dragon Walker says:

    Got to ask how do you clean the waterways of the oil ?

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RLD says:

    Glad to hear these are bulletproof. I just came into possession of a 99' grand prix with the 3.1 and only 48k miles always garaged. The lower intake gasket was already repaired at 46k miles thankfully.

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrSamPhoenix says:

    My brother had one of these in blue. It was ok, but it had the cooling issues. I did this job, replaced the plastic coolant elbow with a metal one, flushed the nasty GM coolant, and replace it with Honda coolant. It never overheated again & ran like a top.

    Overall the GM 3.8L V6 from GM is the V6 that made everyone respect V6 engines. Torquey Oldschool engine with some modern parts… amazing stuff.

    Protip: Removal of the rubber intake-tube & coolant-elbow is made crazy easier if you use some tire silicone if you don’t want them to break/tear apart.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Billy bobobo says:

    I have that same phone mount on my dash, lol

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MiataCommuter says:

    I've always left the fuel lines connected and just laid the fuel rail off to the driver's side.

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Boone Docker says:

    That little elbow is a really bad design.

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Paul Shelander says:

    Ive got to say I am concerned about you’re long term health using brake clean like that and also not wearing appropriate nitrile gloves!

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lo 1X says:

    You need to upgrade to 20v Dewalt team red for the L

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars greg a says:

    Hi Ray much respect bro, I have done several of these repairs and few tips I have is to pull the alt. and replace both v/c gaskets and spark plugs also you will be replacing 2 plastic elbows there with updated metal ones, only use fel-pro gaskets that are metal and rubber and for god sake please replace that plastic upper plenum with the Dorman or OEM! It is probably warped and will leak coolant into the engine, It happened to me in my 3.8 Grand Prix after I did this same repair and started knocking 2 weeks later because it leaked coolant into the engine and went through the bearings and caused a knocking noise☹ It cost me a motor because I was uninformed about those plenums being a problem! Almost every repair I did after that I advised the customer to replace it and I haven't ever had a return repair since.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars morton upshot says:

    If you know you are going to contaminate the engine oil with a quantity of coolant, would it be better to drain the oil first and let the coolant just pour out? that way it just gets the F out and doesnt get deep into corners

    NM. should have waited. not coolant,

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars JEFF ROWLAN says:

    you didn't cover the intake ports on the heads to keep debris or other foreign out…. sham on you

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wackey says:

    ray i hope youring doing part two on this video

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ED Bernard says:

    My wife had a z-34 Monte. and it would fly….. when you opened the hood, all you could see was one giant front valve cover and an intake that covered the rest of the engine to under the cowl . all a Monte Carlo is ,was a 2 door Lumina

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Janne Karppanen says:

    Oil can't go to engine coolant from that intake manifold gasket as coolant system has pressure but crankcase not. Coolant can flow to oil from there, though.

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bobby Kozak says:

    For all the solvent that Ray goes through, I'm surprised he doesn't buy it by the barrel and have a refillable sprayer. The guys in the shop have them, and seem to prefer them to the smaller cans.

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars cameron marshall says:

    Amazing execution Ray! You’re the man!

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Gregilovich says:

    Bulletproof except for lower intake manifold gaskets. LOL

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Toyota Tacoma says:

    Just curious how much do you charge customers for all the brake clean? 🤣🤣🤣

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! Tyrone vonChadley says:

    No parts cleaning sink in that shop yet, Ray?

  45. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ModshackMerlin says:

    He dun droveded off with your chains, and all the equity there-in… [\Cleetus]

  46. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bloody Playlists says:

    Love 3.8 buicks

  47. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jeffrey Dove says:

    I keep a box of cheap sandwich bags in the shop with a note pad. On complex jobs, every component gets it's bolts and small parts in a bag with a quick note. "Water Pump, long bolts at 2 o'clock and 10" for example. When bags are all empty, job is done, have a beer.

  48. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars JimBobthe Impaler says:

    Do a top swap on the beast!!!! 3800 for the win yo!!!!

  49. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Colin ofay says:

    Funny you mentioned the coolant in oil requiring mandatory replacement of oil.
    My sister was adamant it was fine because 'oil cools the engine', it took some time but eventually she realized her mistake when her car died, didn't matter because it was a very old car anyway but the main thing was she realized I was right!

  50. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kevin Barry says:

    Probably should advise the customer that there are metal replacements for those plastic elbows which will not break.