Bent Frame Bolts! Easy Job Escalated! Ford Transit 3.7 https://youtu.be/xOmssBjMwFU
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Air Conditioning Service van moving back up. We had a delivery today. had this stuff yesterday I Had to acquire some unobtainium check out these bolts right here. These are the control arm bolts for the rear bushings that we had to chop and saw off to remove the control arms on yesterday's video.
So let's move on to part two of our 2016 Ford Transit Van moving back up all the way up green subscribe button. So we're gonna go ahead and start with the driver's side I think which is uh, around the corner Over Yonder let's get uh, that side together first. Um, my first challenge is going to be getting these ball joints into these steering Knuckles right? So at this point, getting these control arms back in is going to be a breeze. However, getting these ball joints to press back in might be a little bit difficult.
There is actually a special tool from Ford that's supposed to thread into these little bolt holes right here and then draw this uh, this ball joint up into the Uh, the steering knuckle and I don't have that Tool Uh, judging by the way this casting works, I might not be able to fit move through the Matrix I might not be able to fit a traditional ball joint style press in there. So I may have to come up with some uh, interesting engineering to uh to get this ball joint to press into its hole. Getting it out was no problem. We just smashed it out with a an air hammer, but getting it back in, we'll have to use a little bit more grace and finesse.
So let me see if I can pull this off without spending 600 bucks on a special press. Alrighty, so here's how we're going to do this. We need to wipe down this inside surface where the ball joint presses in and get rid of all the dirt and debris and any kind of nonsense that might be there that could hang this thing up that looks good. And we're going to start this uh ball joint by getting it aligned here so you can see it's a very tight fit.
Now in lieu of the Ford special tool, I'm going to make my own out of some bolts here and some washers and some nuts. Show what we do. Slide that thing on and we're going to thread these bolts in after I drop one and I'm going to attempt to use these bolts to draw this thing in. It might pull it unless this flange right here starts to bend.
If that flange starts to yield and bend, then this plan will, uh, will not work properly and I'll have to come up with another way to push these guys into. uh, or push this ball joint into that knuckle right there. This might be the actual solution to this, but these will definitely help if I have to figure out another way to push. uh, push this ball joint in see how this works out.
Okay, so I've already made an error my my studs have bottomed out. so let's flip these around. So we were bottoming out this threaded portion. so what I'm going to do is flip these because you can see here how that the threading stops.
So we're just going to bottom it out here and that way I can run the nut down the rest of the shank. Try that. I didn't count on those things bottoming out I figured it would just run in and it would work trying again. I Guess this is the price you got to pay for not having the appropriate tool. Maybe if I end up with like a fleet of these things to work on, I'll get the right tool. but plus, it's the first time I've done this particular job. I'm glad I'm not up in the Rust Belt or I would have, uh, disassembled myself into a corner, gotten in trouble, and then been forced to buy the tool. No, get that guy on there we go.
All right. let's see how this is gonna work out here. So our studs are about to bottom out for that. Need a bigger gun? You know? The funny part is is these are GM exhaust manifold bolts.
Thank you. it's working I Don't know if it's betting that flange or not though, but it's kind of working. It is bending the flange. Okay going in now.
This is, uh, this is sort of effective here. All right, That's about as far as it's gonna go with this little method here. Let's go ahead and get these uh, these studs out of here. I've got a stud extractor that should just go ahead and back them out.
get a grip on it and wrong stud extractor. Try again. a rocket socket's not doing it. and yeah, those pinch lock bolts did a number on these threads.
I Get that. but these are. well. these can be disposable.
Get rid of them on thread. you come out. come on. almost.
It's nearly out. Okay, patience is thin now. and I bent my bolt all right backside. No mercy.
I'm gonna send it there. We go. All right. So now at the very least, I can put in the uh, the new bolts that come with this thing.
We're not going to tighten them down I'm just going to thread them in. That'll keep this thing from turning and it'll maintain alignment of this flange right here. There we go. Okay, now we reach a problem.
the position where we're in a problem. So I've got one of the adapters for the uh C-clamp press here. see that that adapter will not fit in that hole. Which means I can't get this guy up here to uh to begin the Press I mean I could try to Cowboy it and stick it on there just like that and hope it holds and then maybe push on the ball joint stud.
but it's probably just going to slip off. so maybe I'll just try to hammer the thing in. I think if I take my uh, my open adapter here, it will slip past the uh, this little rubber boot. it's contacting the flange and I'm just going to try to bash that thing up there with a hammer and hopefully I can get it to seat.
see what happens here. Hey, it's moving. All teen hammers are great. That guy's going right in.
This is of no matcher. it's just a grease boot. I'll put that back. but what does matter is this thing's going and it's uh, it's gonna be seated.
this is gonna work. Flange is bending back from when I drew the thing upwards. There we go. Got it. That's uh, that's one ball joint installed without the use of special tools. Hooray! Put the boot back on, Slide that thing up. Get up there boot. Oh there we go here.
It can stand to be pressed up a little bit more in the back, but I don't have the lens and strength to push it up. so I use a tool to help me a little bit more Right here. It's a plastic interior trim tool, strong enough to push, yet gentle enough to not tear my rubber. didn't come out right.
All right, let's go ahead and run these little bolts in clickage. and they came with their own thread lock as well. So those guys that one's installed? Uh, let's go ahead and get the other one installed that way. we know for certain that the hard part is out of the way.
So let's go ahead and move on over to the passenger side of our floor. Transit Van here some light on the subject, turn this guy right here. and then we'll get that other joint pressed in position. So seeing as how we've identified a method that seems to work in lieu of that special tool, I'm just going to repeat the same procedure here on this side: I'm going to wipe it down, get our ball joint kind of up into that position there, and then put our studs in.
I Realize these nuts are tearing up the threads on these studs. These are. they're pinch lock nuts. and I I think it's like one.
It's like a thread pitch off. Like these might be. uh, like a thread. a pitch of one.
and this might be a 1.25 So we're just going to call these sacrificial sacrificial studs because I just need to get the ball joint in the rest of it. I Don't really care. Cindy it's getting hot. Wow, that's in like almost all the way.
How about that brought it all the way in? Unclick. that ah, that one came out beautiful. All right, let's get some nasty. Grip Pliers on these.
uh, these threads here and back this thing out. Don't make me. well you? oh come on, come out of there unclickage. Nope.
here. we'll try the parrot jaw pliers. The harder you pull, the harder they squeeze. that one's in there.
I Drove that one in good. look at that. Oopsie, you guys scooch over some I Need more space? Gotta really get a hold of it. Get a bite into it here.
Oh there it goes. Turned gotcha. You lose stud Y? You lose? There we go. Turbo Extraction socket? Got it? Let me get these bolts started.
Thread locks thick. See that slippages All right Guys in. however, I am gonna send it a couple Hammer Taps Tamara Haps. I'm gonna send it some hammered Taps Yeah, just to make sure that this center part is, uh, all the way seated but couldn't hurt.
Yeah, that thing she's in. we're good. Okay, two ball joints pressed in. Let's get the control arms hung up.
Okey-dokes Let's squeeze our way out of here. Oh, hit you guys in the face with a brake rotor. Let's come around here to this side and we'll start to get, uh, that control arm set up here. So what we've got here? That's our rear bushing. That's the one we had to chop away. It's gonna go right here in this little slot. Our front bushing goes there in this slot and then the hole for the ball joint slips into the ball joint right here. So get This thing kind of maneuvered in position here.
Slide that up into the hole and we can see the ball joint stud is already uh coming into play here. So let's just get that thing in first because with that there I can put the nut in it and now the control arm can't fall out. See that? So let's get our big on obtainium bolt in next. That's the one that gave us all that fuss.
We have replacements now I'm gonna need to flex this. uh, this bushing right here to get all this stuff to line up. see how the bushing is kind of perpendicular with the center line of the control arm? Well, it needs to point vertically so I've got to have some some amount of flex in it. Uh, might need to rethink this.
I'm taking the ball joint back off. That joint is stiffer than I have anticipated. Let's try this. let's get it in.
You guys are in the way. Come here there. We have to do it like this. All right.
let's run the pole Jack in I Need to pick the subframe up some. Let's try that just to get some more up action on that so those threads can catch. Okay, so the threads still haven't caught yet. Let's move this over here and put more direct up pressure on it.
We need those threads to hook up there we go. All right that's starting to thread. That's perfect. So let's back this up and I'm gonna pry down or pull down the control arm there, see how it's flexing The Joint over there.
that's what we uh if I had to pull the thing back out. So now I'm gonna push it back over and we'll get the ball joint in again. and then we just need to pry bar that other bushing up and into the frame right there. So one more time Nylock ball joint nut and then we can maneuver around over here to the front side and we'll get this pushing up into that hole and then there's that, uh, that third bolt that's going in.
Okay, pry bar coming in I'm going to pry this guy out and up Right right like that. Get it there. there. It is.
perfect. Almost. Let's get the bolt ready. Come on, go up up up.
I Almost can't reach it. I Get it set up and then my rolly chair rolls away. Yeah, close enough. Get in there bolt.
Everything is a hammer there. Okay, let's get these threads started too. Nice. look at that.
Okay, so we can start with our big 30 millimeter on this uh, ball joint nut right here. Let's Hammer this thing down. Loud noises. Oh look the ball joints turning.
it's going quick. All right, got that one. Let's go ahead and get our rear. That's the rear Fastener right there.
21 and we're gonna go ahead and send that one. She's in. okay. Slit down our pole Jack Okay, let's go ahead and get the other side. I'm gonna leave that loose for now until I can set this on the ground. This thing's at a very sharp angle and if I tighten this down, it's going to put some torque on that bushing in there and we don't want to do that. So I'll just tighten these. Uh, later on, after I get both sides installed.
Shoot, let's go back over to the driver's side and get, uh, get that second control arm installed. All right. So again, we're doing this in a very similar fashion as the other side here. What I need to do is get the control arm in with the bushing straight, Start the Big Bolt squeeze that guy in there and it looks like the Big Bolt started Fender down.
Swing this and pivot it in this direction. right here and then off to the right. We'll get that ball joint through the end of the control arm that's right there and where's my nuts? I Need it Now there she is. We'll throw that guy on.
Yeah! Once we've figured out the order of operations, this got real easy. real quick. now. pry bar this thing up and into the hole there in that little little notch.
We'll get that guy up and then get the other bolt in. Okay So pry bar coming in, we'll just go up and in and around and up some more. Get up there. control arm does the main, handle it over hammer.
Okay, here's our Bolt squiggle that thing in, hammer it in Force Hit it in there. we go. Okay, that thing's that's almost started dude. Let's uh, thread this guy in a little bit.
21 action coming in, that one started. let's go out back. torque the Big Bolt Run that in Loud noises and what. And then we got to get the ball joint out over here.
that's our 30 mil. Foreign. clicked alrighty. So we skipped ahead some and I tossed the wheels back on this.
I'm gonna go ahead and lower it down to the ground and let these control arms level out and then we can tighten up those front two bolts and then put in those big giant, uh, body armor looking metal steel pieces. So let's go ahead, lock release this unit and we'll go ahead and start letting her down, coming down slowly. It's a heavy unit. Going down is always the scary part.
They like to oscillate all the way down. very nice. Then we'll crawl under, hit those last two bolts and then we gotta raise it back up to, uh, put the metal steel support units on and we are down. All right.
impact coming in. let's get down here. roll around the dirt. some actually that angle wasn't as dramatic as I thought it was going to be, but whatever.
send it loud and over here where we can't really see no lumens. Extended times two. All right. very good.
Okay, back up in the air. we go and we can get our finalized pieces reinstalled. which is this guy and its counterpart moving back up. Green subscribe button. Round two: Good Alrighty big giant body armor panels coming in. So I need to slip this thing in like over here, up into oh, how do I see it? What? I'm trying to see here. Let me just slip this piece behind this piece. Yeah, between those two and then we can, uh, get it folded on.
So I think it goes. it's gonna go like that. Yeah, right in there gonna wiggle that up into position. That's how it went.
I think and then I need to get these uh, bolt holes lined up. Let's get that bolted and that one's lined up. It's this thing down some. scoot it over.
Yeah, this is a weird setup we got going on here. That one goes in there. We got to get this, uh, the bumper plate thing or whatever lined up. There's like another panel back there there we go.
Top one's on. Let's see, this guy is not threaded yet right here. Let's get that one in. Come on you.
Awkward. Weird Bumper business Now I See why the Ford guys don't really care for these transits? It's like a European Ford This is not domestic in design and then this one's the tough one right here. This bottom one. oh man.
get noodle arm messing with this. Yeah see I thought I had these threaded in, but I don't so it's gonna go with the ones that I know are threaded. and there was that one. You see that topping up there is falling back out.
This one's not started yet. I Think that front bumper piece is twisted and torqued and tweaked and whatnot. there. We go.
kind of there now. I Got them all threaded. Okay, finally. I had to start drawing the bolts in to get them to thread on the top.
Let's tighten this thing down. that one. Ah one. All right.
and I've got the two in behind us. Let's just maneuver that around right there. Clicks. All right.
That's one side. Let's do another spin juke. move here and get this other side over here. All right.
This one is going to fit in the same way. We need to the back side over here. right there with the back side over that little bolt. or a big bolt.
rather, that's our strut, bolt, cover protector, or thing. All right. let's see how this is gonna work. Oh, come on.
Awkward Turtle there. Okay, at least it's not gonna fall out. Those two bolts are in now. you.
uh, pry that thing forward and get this into position. Okay, oh, just gotta push it. I don't have the hand strength I'm only made out of. uh, human.
Okay now I pry that bumper guard thing back. Slide that in. Woohoo! We're in the home stretch. Oh my.
Almost. Almost. so that one I think it's a bottom bolt right here. All right.
Another bottom bolt over here. Then we'll push the assembly up, top bolt, another on the other side. Okay, that one started. Let's draw this together.
almost last one. come on and the reservoir is in the way. Fry bar the reservoir too. there.
click. All right. That's the last of them all. righty? We're closing the hood by transit hood and we're on the ground. Wheels are torched. Hubcaps are on. Let's hop in this unit restocking Z engine and we're gonna take her out on the road here. Beginning engine starting sequence now.
lives all right. let's guns and drives and feels and whatnot. Now, earlier, we did see some nasty Tire action going on. This thing does need a set of tires.
It does need a wheel alignment, especially after a front end parts replacement and uh, and post Collision for that matter. Uh, but I'm not going to do the wheel alignment and I'm not going to do the tires that is going to be sent to another facility to acquiesce that request. So at this point, pending this test drive, I Do believe that my work is nearly done here. You're gonna clear that door of death.
Oh, we're getting close Army. look at that couple inches left, we're going to be just fine. We made it backing out the auto, re-honking the horn for extra safety. Looking good on the right, looking good on the left, looking good behind us.
There we go and we are free. All right. One of the first things I'm noticing is the front end is silent and it's not making any clicking or banging slash popping noises. Steering feels good Also, my steering wheel yeah, we're off center a little bit.
Definitely needs a wheel alignment, but we're also not getting our Hill start assist warning indicator that should have uh, returned very quickly so that's in good shape. Let's head on out. All right. We're preparing to cross the bridge and it's my lucky day.
I Caught the red light. No oncoming traffic. all right. Well, so far so good.
Other than the alignment, this thing feels good. No additional warning indicators are indicating. driving fairly straight, it feels smooth and stable. I'm gonna go ahead and call this one good.
So I have it set on that I Have nothing left to do in this particular video except to close it up right about now my thinking: each and every one of you guys for watching this video as always, hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there! And most importantly, every step's a fantastic day! See you guys later in! Ford Transit Into Video in the Ball Joint Control, Arm Repair in the Transmission.
Excellent tutorial video and great idea to avoid spending $600.
Rays is like my father was, "I'm not paying that much for a one-time-use tool! I'll mickeyrig a tool!" lol
This is not a 2010 -2013 Transit Connect. They have press fit lower ball joints. This is a full size Transit.
1st time I have ever seen you cowboy something but I don't believe the ball joints actually needed changing as they split so easy.
No freezer?? Bag of ice a pail and table salt.
I’m no master mechanic. But I would’ve froze the ball joints and heated the collar.
Hahaha loved that line..”…if not I’d have to of disassembled myself into a corner…”
You are using a self locking nuts to pull the ball joint in work harder
As a few people have said freeze ball joints the night before and use a bottle jack in centre.
Lower the car and the weight does it for you.
$2 block of dry ice will shrink that thing into place
Well I should of waited till I watch the whole video to make a comment. but I see you are a thinking man great
You could of used your air hammer to knock it in you probably have a long deep socket big enough to go over the ball joint and pushed it in the same way it came out just an idea not telling you what to do by the way thanks for the videos I enjoy them also learn a from them keep up the good work
Lol, $600 Ford special tool beaten by $3 bolts
You forgot the shim from part 1 🤔🤫. Must redo it. 😢😢😢
Ima charge 300 for those joints each
I'd LOVE to see a collab between you and Watch Wes Work on two different vehicles. One from his home turf and one from yours.
I mean, from the other side of the screen, you both seem to be doing good work( I'd be happy to bring my car to either of you), but the commentary about the other guy's regular working conditions is destined to be LEGENDARY.
Thanks!
I saw your Swedish flag.
Freeze spray helps to get BJ in.
I enjoy and subbed your videos Ray. I use a little spray lube on all bolts I pull off and then put back on. Goes for a nicer non stripping impact tighten back up and then will not rust in its bore which helps if your the guy that has to take it back off again down the road.
Lawsuit from FOMOCO incoming! 😉
They make a tool for half what Ford wants for one
I have installed a lot of press in parts by dropping them into a thermos bottle of liquid oxygen or liquid nitrogen( safer) for a few minutes. Be sure to remove all the rubber boots first, and don't tuch the cold parts with your fingers. You can literally push them into place using gloves and your hand. Held in place for a few seconds. They warm up and lock in position.
I have also removed bearings seized onto shafting by freezing the shaft and warming the bearing race with a little map gas torch done correctly. The bearing just falls off. If you keep the liquid nitrogen thermos bottles sealed, you can store the liquid nitrogen for quite a while . Liquid nitrogen shrink side part a lot more than I've home freezer will because we're talkin minus 320 degrees Fahrenheit.
Be careful with your back. Speaking from experience
Put the joint in the freezer over night and it will go a lot easier. You must be quick
Another great vid Ray, just wondering how you managed to get rid of the hillstart assist warning light, i have a transit with the same issue and havent figured out how to do it yet?
the only remotely special took ive bought for work on my jetta is triple square sockets up to this point
I would have added a lube on the ball joint so it can easily slide.
Usa grasa en las roscas para que jirón bien
Barbados…….Alfred, I do mechanics and I love working on suspensions ,you did a great job .
You're supposed to start all the bolts with the impact, if they line up great, if not cross thread em, still tight. Next mechanic problem. 😆
Did a Volvo that had the same design, except Volvo uses an adapter you simply hammer on. I used a large socket and hammer. Next time I will order the adapter, its cheap enough. Same deal with order of operations to make everything fit. I found the ball joint wasn't seated completely, tap and tighten until the bolts stay tight. First time I did one of that design but common sense tells you what to do. This Volvo used an aluminum LCA, the ball joint was part of the arm, but the new arm did not come with it, thanks Moog!! The BJ hole was closed end too.
Unless more than one dealership does those yellow stickers, I know where you got those Ford parts from…
I hope my mechanic doesn't work this way on my truck.
That was fun to watch ray ray I definitely enjoyed it 😊😊😊😊
You definitely earned your money on this one, Ray. Nice job!!
Your unobtanium bolts don't have any SAE marks. Are those weight bearing?
What about that Struggle Jennings and Caitlynne Curtis playing in the background 💯💯💯👍👍
Another Transit , In Transit !
Hi Ray, I noticed on the video where you removed the ball joints on this van, there was a thin piece of stamped metal sandwiched between the ball joint flange and mount. I'm guessing these were heat shields to protect the ball joint from the heat coming off the brake disc. I see you didn't reinstall these with the new ball joints and I hope it doesn't lead to premature failure of the new ball joints.
Young inspiring mechanic here…but is it not required to have some load on the controll arms for the bushings to be in the proper positioning so they dont tear right away? Just curious…..Love the videos ray you do teach me alot
WD 40 please
Heat aluminum up joint falls in.
Title screen photo is reversed !
what's wrong with the studs/nut? looks like the machine has to work hard just moving the nut on the bolt. looks weird
Everything is a hammer love it.
LOL you should get Troy to help, he has the hand strength, he's young.
Did you get the two bolts you did not tighten
I might have put it in a freezer overnight to help…
what I'm wonderfing is how the driver managed to bend those bolts in the first place
regarding fitting balljoints like that, superchilling the joint (liquid nitrogen is CHEAP) and expanding the hole with a bit of heat saves a lot of blood sweat and tears
I’ve always put the ball joint in the freezer and used heat where it is pressed in.
A little oil or grease would have helped a LOT getting those ball joints in…..jus sayin
What made you decide on those type of nuts?
there was a spacer/shim under the original ball joint should have gone back in
LMAO…….Guess those bent/Fractured B joint Flanges Aren't doing much Now !!
We put them in the freezer and, heat the knuckles slightly.
Had to do exactly same job few months back only difference is mine were rusted into the metal sleave of the bushing so i just used a grinder to cut the arms off.
Were those bolts or studs?
.
It's a conspiracy to sell specialty tools plus, engineers hate mechanics.
Should've got a loaner tool…
2 x Front arm bolt's hope you tighten them.
lube
When I worked for a company called break parts (a division of echlin vehicle parts) when we pressed anything we used WD40 it provides a little lube but dries out over a couple hours.. we did this on clean drilled holes when we pressed in studs.. with WD40 it took 2000 pounds pressure.. without it, it took almost 2x the pressure
Question. Do you get permission to leave company info on vehicles that you are working on? I noticed a few times you hide that. Or is it more of you post it unless they state prior? So I guess that was two questions.
I would think a little white lithium grease would help
knipex pliers are better
You did not install the shim/rear shield that was to be installed with the ball joint. Another half-ass repair. Oh yeah, the installation tool in $275.00 not $600.00. More BS!
I worked in a fleet shop. We honestly just used the hard plastic cover that protected the joint for shipping and left it over it to protect the threads. Then we just hammered it in most of the way, no special tools required. I like your way too. I always used the bolts to keep it centered.
Ray, you don't have one of those hard plastic cup looking ball joint boot installation thingys?
Guess it's too Late for the oem Spacer Plate install ?? ……Rotate it,…..Who gives a Shinola !!
LMAO ……..Ford Pos == Get a Bigger Sledge !! ……LMAO…..Get a Crusher !!
Great work getting them in without "special(expensive) tool" Am wondering about the shims that were on the old units however…..
Nice Oliver Anthony song in the background. Such a great song. I listened to it like 20 times, lol.
I am a female that absolutely loves your videos. But this one made me cringe. Glad that you figured it out. I would have maybe used a little grease but kudo's to you. I love working on cars and you rock. I wish you were in Ft Myers.
We're made out of gooy goop. Get it straight man. 😅
Those kind of bushings are a pain but……
Creat a slight chamfer on the first 1/4 inch of the ball joint body with a flapperwheel (on an angle grinder) .
Polish off the chamfer with fine emery.
Smear assembly grease around all the press fit areas.
Still goes on tight but wont bend flanges or chance wiping out threads. .
I would have used the original bolts that you first tried but a nut at the flange. That way you can hold back on the bolt while tightening up the nut . this assembnbly prevents the chances of tearing up the mounting threads.
I never use a power tool when pressing in ball joints and bushings. A spanner gives a better feel for what is happening as the press fit task is done.
Ray, Like you , I made my own tools @ OMC 30 years, (Johnson & Evinrude ) Engineering , before the product was released, if you work on a new Maverick put that on Video ?
You're impact reminded me, i need to charge my batteries. I'm replacing the bolts on the suspension of my utility trailer with some wet bolts, and my impact won't break the old bolts loose without heating them with a torch first.
After the fact, but what I do on these and similar is use apiece of pipe Like your adapter cap it and use sir " big nasty" to hammer it in place
Putting the new component into a dry ice/acetone bath would cool it down to -70C it would them be a push on fit due to the reduction in size. This is commonly done in industrial settings.
I would have froze the hell out of those ball joints before I tried to put them in and a little bit of Lube wouldn't hurt either.
Only thing i seen was the original ball joints had spacers? If im not mistaken..
Wow the second ball joint you did went so much smoother. I really didn't see the flames bend. Although I am a little bit inebriated right now. I think you did a great job. I hated doing press in ball joints.
done these – standard press tool works.
Is there not a snap ring on the topside of the ball joints!! No grease fittings?!! Good job 👍!!
Used two air tools
Nice improvisation on those ball joints . Ford junk “ ! Also do you have any idea what that sticker on the tool box means ? “CABRON “ in Spanish ? That is a sticker you would want removed if you new what it meant Lol 🤣
Have you ever heard necessity is the mother of invention! You are true mechanic.
I think them body armor things are for bumper structural integrity since they make the bumpers outta plastic junk these days
Unfortunately it’s a $300 press off Amazon. Thanks for the hack though😏. I did a set with my air hammer and a jack stand.
Also both set of control arms I have done required be bolts for the same issue of being bent. I believe there is a design flaw (imagine) with the Ford/Daihatsu design of the front end. Guess that’s just the “way it’s done “ overseas😂😂🤣
Thanks for the great content! Love the double entendres 😂😂
Shop looks great by the way. Wish I had the cajones 😵
I am by no means a mechanic, but i know "fake it till you make it" when I see it!! 😂 Great video as always, Ray.
Or you could have tapped the nuts to be 1.25
I don't even think the ford dealer I work at has the special tool.
I’m thinking that the van didn’t so much have a front collision as it maybe hit a curb or area where the pavement was removed for work and there was a big pot hole! The front suspension took the hit and bent the heck out of it.
I'm confused…. The stud extractor socket worked so well on the first set of studs that you decided to struggle with pliers instead on the other side?
RAY, WE ALL STILL MISS THE DOO DEE DOO DAA DOO'S