In this video we have a look at a customers '17 Subaru Legacy that has had a long history of the battery always being dead. She's been dealing with it for 2 years now and wants it fixed.
-Enjoy!
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South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
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--Eric & Vanessa O.
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Avoca, NY 14809
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Hey there viewers, welcome back to the Sou! Main Auto Channel got a 2017 Subaru it's Legacy I think it's a 25. It doesn't have a label so I don't know what it is. it's big and uh, the lady uh has been having problems with this thing with the battery going dead for a couple of years. Uh so it started it back in the year 2020.
That's when everything bad started. but that's when this thing started going through battery. So she's gone through a couple batteries is my understanding. And the car used to be a daily.
it's only got about 58,000 miles on it right now, but then it got to the point where the car would sit like uh, you know instead of driving every day she was only driving it. you know, twice a week and every time she'd go to get in it the battery was dead. uh, someone else in the family has it now or daughter or something like that and uh, the car is often dead and like I say they've gone through the swaps of the batteries and stuff and she says she has to drive it every single day now because if it sits for 2 days, it's you know DOA uh so that's it. That's all.
I know uh I do know there's an after Market remote start as there often is on these on the key fop looking on the inside. Car looks nice, super clean, everything looks stock. No aftermarket radio. Don't see any other funny business right off.
so that's all I know Uh, it's been sitting for about 2 minutes at this point before we do anything invasive. Uh, we're going to just throw a current clamp around the negative battery. We're going to see what the current draw is um, as we typically do uh with parasitic draw, uh, concerns. and then we're going to look in service info because you guys remember the last Subaru that we did had some really good info in service info which often times these cars or manufacturers don't when it comes to ghost voltage.
Uh, I don't remember what Subaru called. They had a pretty specific name for it. Um, dark current? That's what it was. dark current Darkness Uh, that's what Subaru called it and they were very specific on how long the car had to sit to time out, which the last Subaru video we did that had a bad radio.
That car only had to sit for like a minute. something like that and everything shut off. We were able to find that one really quickly. Uh, if I remember right though the guy didn't fix that, he elected to just leave the fuse out and live without a radio.
So I don't know what we're going to find here, but that's a process we're going to use and want you guys come along. Minor change of plans. We're going to send the current through the meter. Uh, this Cable's a little too big.
it's a double cable I can't get it in my current clamp right now. The car is par, shut off obviously, and the doors are locked. So if we do this wrong, we're going to get an alarm on a Subaru So plamp that baby on there. We want to get it to where it locks on All right.
So we should have current passing through our meter providing the fuse is good when we put it away. last. uh, we're going to go to grafting meter. we'll go amps internal. now. this can handle up to 20 amps internal. I Think no 10 10 amps internal. Well, that's not a very big Big Draw My Guy Let's get some kind of cruising across the screen here for you, but you can see we're drawn well close to 100 milliamps.
Oh, that's interesting. It's kind of acting like it's creeping up there from when I very first hooked it up. Okay, there's 60. Now it's about a 60 milliamp draw.
Interesting, not excessively high. I'll put it on a 200 milliamp scale. I'll put some time on the screen here, see if we see any anomalies. Yeah, now we're down to 30 33 milliamps.
That's interesting. That's really pretty insignificant. Certainly would not kill the battery overnight, so that's kind of bizarre. If there's a date coat on this battery then might be under the cover.
What kind of interesting? I'm going to let this go over some time because see I can see it ramping up again, but you know we could still be in in the shutdown process of this. So it's kind of bizarre. Um, like I said I'm I'm put 5 minutes on the screen. we might drag out the Pico here so we can see more current over time.
All right. Well, we'll let her sit. I'm going to like I said I'm going to look in service data and we'll come back and check this out in a few minutes. So I think I'm starting to see a bit of a pattern here.
It's only been about 8 minutes and every 3 seconds, you know we're going to have this small hump here. Okay, we'll call it the little small current draw that is the blinking red light. The security light inside it blinks every 3 seconds. These other spikes here every 1 second.
approximately I don't know what they are could be perfectly normal. Um, but like I say this lower lower hump that we get. That's every time that little LED on the Dash turns on for security and then it seems to be about every minute something turns on and runs us up to about 90 to 100 milliamps and we'll see that. of course we'll see this current draw on top of whatever this is that happens right here.
So some something is happening where our one 1 second pulses if you will become a little bit longer, they stay on a little little longer whatever it is. And then of course we still have our LED our security LED blinking every 3 seconds. We can get that out of the mumbo jumbo and then we come here and like I say it holds around. you know 9200 milliamps and whatever this is turns back off so to speak or goes away rather after about a minute or so.
but it happens just about every minute. Pretty consistent I was seeing it there when I had more time on the screen and that's it's. going to shut off here and then like I say we still have our blinking security light. We lose our 1 second pulses that we were getting but we still have our security light blinking and then in a little bit it'll drop back down to you know, the 30 milliamps. So it goes back to our 30 milliamps. got some funny business there and then it goes back to you know, quote unquote normal where we have a current draw every 1 second and then our security light blinking. So I think there is definitely something wrong. uh I still have yet to look at service data because I get sidetracked hey squirrel and uh, you know, start looking at this and and I think we have have enough data to go on here to say like yeah, this probably isn't normal whether it's a module waking up or doing something I really don't know.
it's pretty low current. so I don't know if we're going to end up making our tests every minute while it's broking. If we go, you know what? we go down the fuse and and find out where this current draw is going. Uh, but I I don't think that these pulses every one second I don't I don't believe that's normal I might have said I think it's normal but I don't believe it is.
I've a lot of current draw testing on cars and you don't see stuff like that. You'll see the lights kicking on and off the LEDs But here we are going into another one minute cycle. So and like I say those pulses that were every 1 second now become bigger and that's our LED light kicking on our security light. There's another one there just on the edge.
Here's another one on that back. Edge So like I say every 3 seconds we're going to see this LED light kicking on there. So yeah, Anyhow, so that's what it does. It repeats it over and over over and over again.
So just so you guys know, that's kind of where I'm at and now I'm going to go back and do what I told you I was going to originally do look at some service data think I might have found it folks. So I got to wait about a minute for this thing to kick on whatever it's doing and then as that's happening I'm measuring voltage drop across each fuse for the you know the 30 or 40 seconds that it that it does it. So right there it's drawing current and look at my meter point. 3 molts across this fuse right here now.
I'll stay kind of paned back as soon as the current draw goes away. so doesn't our voltage drop across that fuse? So let's just wait for it here. it doesn't last very long. It took me a while I started of course way over here on the left hand side and finally made it over there.
so we're down to 2 molts of voltage drop across the fuse. still has 64 milliamps of current draw. wait for it to go away and there it is. We're back to quote unquote normal and we have no current draw across fuse.
So that made it tricky because I had to I could only test it while it was broken. Um so anyways let's see what that fuse runs and see where it goes get be able to. So that was kind of a tricky one. Let's see that is the third row and so third row and it's a very top fuse and that says you guys probably can't see it but it says DCM Delta Charlie Mike 7 12 amp. So let's look on a power distribution and see what that runs. Yeah, so right now it's doing it again. Well I guess before we do that, let's just go like this. Let's grab these from the previous job that we didn't take care of.
Oh come on, you stick pots There we go. Let's pull that out. Let's just yank the fuse. Boom problem Sol baby you just got to pull your fuse and now all we have is our blinky light every 3 seconds for security.
So I'm going to set that fuse right there and that looks like a normal current draw pattern. So the last Subaru we did I think was drawing around 30 milliamps. um so we can we can put some time on the screen. we'll put uh, we'll just go like 3 minutes we'll say and we'll just let this continue to go.
It's going to look a little wobbly over there because like I say the LED that's blinking on the inside change the time basis so it looks a little better because this the problem was happening every every one minute. So let me go see what this fuse runs. and we do that by looking in a a power distribution diagram and it'll tell us everything that runs off that fuse. So I found it right here.
Oops, where's my point? I Guess this is all we got for a pointer. Big scraper. uh, fuse number 9, 7 and2 amp only feeds one thing. Hooray for us! Uh, data communication module and I have no idea what that is or what it does.
Here's how we're fixing this one folks. BCM Fuse Taped batter's reinstalled. Put that back in there and I'll tell you what I figured out. Good news and bad news folks.
The DCM or the Telematics Data Control Communication module get mixed up here has to do with Subaru's uh Starlink I guess they call it uh so it seems to be their version of GM's OnStar uh satellite. uh you got like your SOS button up here and this information button and and stuff like that. It is a subscription service that the customer has to pay for. I'll fast forward and skip a whole bunch of stuff.
It took a while to figure out what all this module does for everything, but that's mostly it. Um, the radio will still function the the XM radio will still function. She'll still be able to hook to uh, the audio here with her. uh Bluetooth uh the best I can figure out that should all still function I've left the fuse out because I got a hold of Subaru because I wanted to see.
well how much does this module cost? You know it appears that something funky is gone with it. Let's just start figuring things out. see if they're available soon as I called Subaru The guy says not a chance, young fella. He says they've been on a forever back order.
They make them out of un itanium and you can't get them great. Subaru has a service boltin on it because apparently this is an issue with people trying to swap and use ones and that's a big no. no. Um, so they have a bolletin issued to their dealers saying do not Swap this out or take this out for any reason and put in one from a different car and this that and the other thing and if you need to obtain a new one, here's the process to go through and we'll fast forward from that point I asked the guy at Subaru I said so if these are on back order what are you know? What are you guys seeing coming in the shop? Almost every single case is parasitic draw So it's kind of interesting. um that I've never run across this before. Uh, but the fact that he knew right off hand also that this data communication module was a common source for a battery draw and he can't get them. Uh, he says you can put one on order. he says they've been getting them Trinkle in you know here and there every once in a while you know, been on back order for a couple years and then get one every you know month or so but it's as a I guess you're put on the the list.
So checked with this lady. uh, gave her the options. you know we can get it, we can wait, we can go a little further or we can leave the fuse out of it and everything works on your car and you're not paying for Starlink service anyways and she says, yeah, that's what she wants to do is just leave the fuse out of it and enjoy the car and not fix a feature that she doesn't even use. so we're not going to go any further.
That's that if you want to go further with yours I Guess you got to I Was looking at service data, the whole Center stack here comes out. uh, the navigation unit and all that stuff and the heater and the modules back in there. but there is a process to replacing it and installing it. uh, other than just you know, plugging it in and calling a day.
So so that's it. That's where we're at. That's a lot of Jibber jabbering uh for that, but kind of a neat uh battery draw. So maybe if you're working on a Subaru and you see that same type of current draw that's coming and going now, skip all the BS yank the fuse out uh for that DCM and see if it takes care of it and this will save you some time.
But uh, I'm sure there's some Subaru guys in the comment that maybe can elaborate on this as far as what the Telematics Data Communication module does on and Beyond just the SOS button and stuff like that I Didn't look into it any further, but what I will look at is your comment in the comment section, questions, comments, the insty the Facebook and just remember viewers if I can do it, you can do it. Thanks for watching.
This is the only way Subaru owners would know any thing about this problem. Great work Eric. The voice of honesty.
My neighbor had the exact same problem. Did the same thing and pulled the fuse for her and the car is working fine. She was so greatfull for me fixing it, said I saved her thousands of dollars because she was ready to trade the car in. The dealership wanted to replace battery and alternator for big $$$. What a rip off, suspect they knew what the problem was all along.
.
Twice my wife’s Forrester has had the battery go completely dead over night.
It’s a pain in the ass. Have to use the key to open the door and pop the hood. I have a couple of those small lithium boosters. They can’t start a car if the battery is completely dead. So they were almost useless. I couldn’t boost it from our other car because it’s parked in the narrow one car garage. I can’t roll it out because it has electric parking brakes that I can’t disengage because there’s no electricity.
Luckily I had a little 1 amp lab supply that I used to charge the battery very slowly. But it would get to point where there was enough power for the alarm to go off and start honking the horn and flashing the lights using up the little charge I managed to get.
Eventually between the supply and the two boosters I managed to get enough power to disengage the electric parking brake and push it out of the garage so I could boost it with the other car.
I now bought an expensive car starter battery charger and of course now it hasn’t happened since.
Great video, the owner does need ti get away from this fram filter…
My 17 Outback has the battery dead seemingly every 6 months since I got it in 2021. 2 of the 3 times I was at my parents so I had a charger handy. The first time the battery died I was in the city… called a Co worker. I was thinking every time I left the triggered the rear hatch light to stay on accidentally while unloading. I was about to pull off the switch to not catch it accidentally but maybe I'll look for the tdm fuse… now.
Btw, I have a parasitic draw on my 2016 Outback.
I pulled the DCM fuse in the fuse panel and the draw went from .74 microamps down to .64 microamps. Not a big change like in the video.
Something else is causing the draw and will have to investigate further when I have the time.
Module probably has a cellphone module, it is like a cellphone without a screen so you can send and receive data. Seems like module is turning on to send data or to register to the network. Probably the suscription to the cellphone provided is out and it can no longer register to the network which put its sw into a certain loop. Changing this crap probably requires matching the IMEI / phone number into some Subaru telemetry system ???. Other module could freak if the IMEI from the new module does not match wuth the one they have stored somewhere else ?.
i dont think ill be buying a subaru or a ram
Dr O solved another one genius !!! You are the very best !!!
My old Honda CRV got them same thing so I have to install the power cut off switch to turn it off ever day to reserve battery.
I have a 1994 Honda Accord that does this periodically (bought it new, thank you very much). Turns out, the problem is a short in the driver side door control console. In the cold months, frost forms that shorts a couple of the switches. Tracking down automotive electrical gremlins can be a nightmare. Especially when the car predates ODB2 ports. I only got a clue when I went out one frosty morning to find the mirror adjusting itself.
2020 was definitely a decline for us. FJB
Amen 2020 is when the parasites took over. God bless and overcome my man.
This problem must have irritated enough owners that some owners have filed a lawsuit against Subaru.
Subaru owners have reported experiencing premature parasitic battery drain in vehicles equipped with Starlink in-vehicle technology. The defect presents itself when the equipped data communications module (DCM) attempts to communicate with 3G cellular networks.
Subaru 3G Battery Drain Lawsuit | Wexler Boley & Elgersma LLP
Since starlink is no longer supported, an I just unplug my fuse?
Had the same problem with this issue: Did a power draw test and ended up being the blue tooth module. I just ripped it out behind the glove box and threw it away. Never had this problem again.
Electronics repair man might be able to fix that circuit board in the module
Same thing with the Hummers… pull fuse.
Nice job .? So how do you or how much diag.time to charge .
I am surprised that we consider a 100ma draw for a minute, every other minute is sufficient to make a car unstartable. For a 600 CCA battery (82ah) a battery should last for 820 hours, not 48. Of course that presupposes some reserve capacity, but I'd think that there would be plenty left after 48 hours.
You are one smart guy good job agan .
Why you quit using snap on scanner ?
Nice
Have a 96 F150 that’s gonna parasitic draw that if I let it sit for three days, the battery is completely dead
Just fyi, newer Hondas with telematics can also have this issue, had many DOA causing a draw, there's a tab I believe that. So if you see one out of warranty now you know
Eric, can you give me a promo code for the swag store? Christmas shopping.
Thanks for not being a hack. I just watched a video of a guy in Pennsylvania bypassing a fuse/relay and patting himself on the back because the car started. I'm an electrical engineer and I tried to advise him that he is going to have unpredictable results if the lady activates her ABS since the circuit is now in parallel with another circuit. Not to mention the dealer will never touch the car again when they see the creativity bestowed upon it. I was thinking…Eric O would not be his buddy…..
I have an 09 Hyundai Elantra Touring wagon that had a parasitic draw. The clue was a warm spot on the roof between the windshield and the sunroof. Opened up the roof center "console" and found a dealer installed GPS unit that was tied to a Hands-free button and mic/speaker. Removed=fixed. Too many gimmicks…
I got a DCM once…it was Don't Come Monday…as the boss closed up the business!
One's first thought would be an alternator but it's not always that case the best way know if it's an alternator is to bench test it for better results.. a normal working alternator should have a draw of 13.5 to14.5 but if it's 12.5 or less very weak..
Why does the Starlink/DCM need to draw power with the vehicle off? There is no reason why it cant be a key acc/run position, relay driven power supply. I had a similar problem with a BMW……the climate control was drawing power with the key off……what on earth for? If I want the climate control to keep the blower motor running with the engine off, It could just be running with the key on Accessory.
Excellent diagnosis!
You done the right thing! Thanks for making these videos. great job as always! Ed Hicks
But even a continuous 100ma current should not flat out the battery in 3 days. In fact the average current draw should be around 65ma(half time 40ma, half time 90ma), it would take about a month to drain full charged 45ah battery at this amp
It's got the big two five. I think Eric O and his family are the poster for the hard working American family. I think his wealth of tools and knowledge are the key. There's many out there with the skills but without the knowledge or tools which are pricey. Dang. Maybe it's already happening I'm not sure. But there should be some kind of loan available. Get these guys a shop. Work on older cars for people having hard times. Do videos on them so the customer can see their car come together. With great videos like these. They can learn.
Stupid thing's trying to 'handshake' to an extinct system.
Call all you want, no one's ever going to pick up.
cant understand something 100 mA is like 1 amp after 10 hours and thats not considered a high draw at all if that car sets for 7 days it should be able to start unless it have other problems like bad starter or something
2020…that's when "everything bad started" You couldn't be more right my friend
Well if you’re not using it you might as well chop it off 😂😂
I have the same problem with a Nissan 2008
I don’t own a Subaru. The car I own you probably haven’t worked on in 10 years😂, but I love your videos, very knowledgeable and honest mechanic here. Watching from South Jersey, take care man!
I diagnosed an Altima last year that had the same issue,
Nice technique!
Today I learned that pulling a fuse actually cures a no-start condition. Modern vehicles are just too dang complicated, filled with doodads no self-respecting driver really needs other than bragging points.
Pulled my DCM fuse last year. All my battery issues went away.
Great find as usual!
Check the glove compartment light, not going out.
I had a 2020 Toyota 4 runner that had a constant 70mA draw. It was the stupid head unit with all of that big brother monitoring, remote start and SOS button. Even if you don't activate the remote start function by paying a subscription for it, it's still there and it's still on
Something else, that hood didn't have any of the EPA regulated stickers, it looks like it was probably an accident one would think that
Very informative, thank you for sharing. My first thaught watching the current curve was that the problem is caused by some tracking device. So Subaru is absoltely right when they call it "dark current" because it feeds the dark side of the force.😁
Does On Star for GMs have the same issue? My Avalanche sits for 10 days, the battery is dead. When the battery is only putting out about 10 volts. The CD ejection starts cycling until the battery is totally dead.
"I don't know what that is." Duh, it is a module for communicating data.
Do your front speakers and microphone still work after pulling the dcm fuse? They don't on a 2019 Legacy Limited with Harman Kardon audio.
Hey Mr O….. I have a 2019 Outback with mystery battery/draw issues…. I tried the #9 fuse. Bluetooth would not work when taking the fuse out. Like your channel…
The sad thing is that the DCM module is not really breaking. I strongly suspect its firmware is programmed to start transmitting like crazy. Starlink uses 4G LTE (4th generation long-term evolution) cell phone networks. Maybe the telecom company changed something and that freaks out the DCM and it keeps transmitting trying to establish contact or some other nonsense. This is all part of our new surveillance capitalism culture. The pigs that run Subaru thinks your car needs to be telling "the cloud" where it is, what it is doing, what you are saying, who you know and your music preferences. What complete pigs. This module should be dead off until you press the emergency button. I am sure the new modules are the same as the old one, just with different firmware so it does not go crazy transmitting when the car is off and there is no emergency.
Your diagnostic and detective skills saved this lady a lot of aggravation, time and money. Good job!
MIL's new Impreza had the same issue. Dealer threw batteries at it and nothing worked. She puts about 1000 miles a year on it, so sitting for a few days was an issue. MIL thought driving with all of the electrical draws off was good for it, so we told her to drive with the lights on and heater fan at position 1 and the issue resolved itself.
Why do you use the negative connection on the battery to measure the amp draw through the meter?
👍
No comment, for this problem anyway. Mine is No hot wire when the key is on. But it is an old 93 D150. and I changed out all the electrical components under the hood. Can't find where mice have chewed any wires either.
Thanks!
Unobtainium. LOL the vast unrepairable Space! LOL
Doesn't that stuff drive ya crazy?
Very bad of Suburu not to let owners know of the issue, with such a simple fix.
Does anyone else find these infinite back orders unacceptable in this day and age?
There’s a reason I don’t like any of the newer cars. Too many electronic gremlins
Didn’t Ivan run into the same thing with a Merc?
Sounds like if you don’t want to pay the subscription. They then play with u 😉😉😂
That’s one thing I have seen change last few years. No dang date on batteries like wtf 🤷🏻♂️😂 they sure don’t make batteries last like they did 20 years ago for sure.
i'm having a similar issue with my honda crv. battery drains if it sits more than a couple days. I have a bad rear door taht kept the cargo light on, but i removed the bulb, thinking that'd help, but it didn't solve it. i know there's no lights on cause i've looked after it sits a while and it's all dark
A friends Saab 9.5 had the the same problem. It took the dealer 3 months to find it. He lived a 100 miles from that closest dealer.
Here is my comment…thanks for the video.
My crystal ball says that unobtainium parts are going to become increasingly problematic.
Well, that is just too bad for everybody that owns the Subaru. Thank you, Eric, you're one smart man. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Anyone remember back in the 70's-80's, there was, I believe, a Dodge or Chrysler that would trip
the "Check Engine Light" when a 9 volt battery under the dash went dead?
Dealer scam to get customers back to the dealer.
I like watching your videos I hate working on cars Either you don't know how to fix it or don't have the right tools But you make it easy So I have been doing still on my truck with you and YTU thanks for all you do
Maybe that guy who reprograms the modules can read and write them,, then used would be useable, but with 3g being shutdown the expense would be a waste thinking further i wonder if 3g shutdown isn't the issue with them,, it wakes up to see if a signal is present finds none and goes back to sleep.
Star link . To smart for its own good. Silly new crap .
Dcms are a known issue on Subarus unfortunately. There is however a newer bulletin for dcm dark current draws and diagnosis and things we can do at the dealer to try and prevent the draw on your current vehicle without replacing the dcm or pulling a fuse. The technical service bulletin is 15-312-23R. 2019 Subarus are by far the worst with the dcm issues and draws at our dealer. I just seen the other comment of someone who has also shared this information with you above. Keep on keeping on Eric!
I kinda wanted to have the video just end the minute Eric pulls the fuse lol.
Great job as always!!!!
Very good information. Thank you!
Andy is a parasitic draw….
Another great video full of important info for Subaru owners and shop!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Secretly, if you're not paying for the starlink services, they will randomly turn stuff on to drain the battery just to annoy the non paying customer 😁.
Another great example of Eric digging in and finding the scoop, all the SCOOP!
Another great video. I've heard about this issue with Subaru with no cause or fix. You did a great job troubleshooting the issue! We own a 2021 Crosstrek with no issues!!
I bought a three year old car and was disconcerted to see a recent fitting of new alternator and battery. Going through the vehicle, amongst a few other small things I discovered that the glovebox light was not working. It was a bit of a faff to get the unit out (no chance of replacing the bulb in situ) but I did and replaced the pea bulb which was obviously burned out. Before refitting it, I idly pressed the button to watch the bulb turn off. It didn't.
Took me another 15 minutes to dismantle the switch, reassemble it properly and put it all back together. We've had the vehicle for four years now and no battery/charging issues. I think the switch must have been misassembled from new and the bulb was draining the battery if the vehicle was left for a while. The bulb probably blew shortly after the battery and alternator were replaced. It's not always the complex stuff that goes wrong.
Great I learned something & I subscribed love it he knows his stuff😊
Very helpful thanks
Interesting that it requires swapping the module. just based on what the current draw looks like I would have assumed it was a software bug, but maybe the software is waking up because something in the hardware is busted.
Or maybe they just have no way to reprogram them in the field so the only way to get updated software is to swap the module.
I remember when i brought a chevy with onstar they told me they had to change the module before it was using 3G and they upgraded it a LTE one
I hate newer cars!
About year 2005 is when alot of car makers made modules VIN coded, non plug and play. I hate newer cars…..
What a piece of Junk. This is what happens when you copy GM.
Back at ya!😮
You can also jump the load side of the fuse onto another fuse operated by the ignition key so when the key is in the off position that load is also off and no more parasitic drain.
This was very interesting! Thanks Eric 'O. 2 years she lived with this?!?!
It also controls your remote start from your Subaru app.. They are on backorder. This was the perfect storm of faulty Subaru batteries coupled with faulty DCM's. The backorder is not as bad as Subaru wheel hub units though.
"Dark current." I love that. If your car has too much dark current, then at night the car will be dark, and the car will stay dark when you try to start it in the morning.
Hey Eric O, here is the skinny on that 3G is dead,ling live 5G
All Subaru affected
• 2016-2018 Forester 2.5i Premium
• 2016-2018 Forester 2.5i Limited
• 2016-2018 Forester 2.5i Touring
• 2016-2018 Forester 2.0XT Premium
• 2016-2018 Forester 2.0XT Touring
• 2016-2018 Legacy 2.5i Premium
• 2016-2018 Legacy 2.5i Limited
• 2016-2018 Legacy 3.6R Limited
• 2017-2018 Legacy 2.5i Sport
• 2016-2018 Outback 2.5i Premium
• 2016-2018 Outback 2.5i Limited
• 2016-2018 Outback 3.6R Limited
• 2017-2018 Outback 2.5i Sport • 2016-2018 Impreza 2.0i Limited
• 2016 Impreza 2.0i Sport Premium with Eyesight
• 2016 Impreza 2.0i Sport Limited
• 2017-2018 Impreza 2.0i Premium
• 2017-2018 Impreza 2.0i Sport
• 2016-2017 Crosstrek 2.0i Premium with
Eyesight
• 2016-2018 Crosstrek 2.0i Limited
• 2018 Crosstrek 2.0i Premium
• 2017 WRX 2.0T Premium with Harman Kardon
• 2017-2018 WRX 2.0T Limited
• 2017-2018 WRX 2.5T STi
Subaru should replace unit so she nneds to set appointment
The DCU is programmed to try and connect to the cell network at preset intervals.. Since it cannot connect it keeps trying until it kills the battery