Hello everybody, good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here. If this is your first time here and welcome to the channel, super glad you're here! I Know I'm super glad to be here. We are returning to the front end rebuild due to a locked up universal joint that was causing sticking steering. See that right there? It goes This way it does not go the other direction.

so those you joints are locked up, we are replacing those they've been ordered during our inspection of this 2016 7. Powerstroke F250 We also found that uh, the other side, although it was not binding up, it's not looking to be in very good condition. You can tell that grease CT is just loaded full of dirt right there and I don't think it's ever been greased. So uh, in order to prevent the same problem from occurring that happened on that side, uh, we're going to go ahead and replace this universal joint on this axle as well.

Uh, while we were here, we found some very minor minor play in a lot of the steering components on this truck. We can see over here at the end of the drag link that goes from our steering gear boox all the way to the right front steering knuckle. it has had a replacement and that looks like a cheapo. Uh, a replacement outer tie rod and it's just the one piece.

We found a bunch of play in this joint right here. that's not the best and we also found some play in the front axle track bar. Those are a known problem on these. uh, this particular year model of truck.

Uh, so the fix is to replace the track bar ball joint which has also been ordered. That's this guy right here. and then we're going to change out the track bar itself. Uh, we found a little bit of minor play in that ball joint so that one's going to be replaced with the drag link and again.

Uh, we're going to do the outer tie rod here and then the other outer over there. Uh, some folks were going re re re R Ra Raah about the preload on those because I didn't find a whole bunch of left and right. uh motion. We just found some some up and down when compressing it folks.

we're saying that's that's normal. Others were saying that it's not I found enough wear on these U these steering components to Warrant a replacement and that's what our owner of this vehicle wants to do because it's this guy's truck. It's a very nice truck and he would like this front end to, uh, become trouble-free and uh, no longer be a problem for him. So that's what we're going to do.

We're doing the rebuild. SL upgrade Sl00 something th000 M Refresh on the front of this Ford F250 So this video is part two. In the first video, we diagnosed it, disassembled that axle. In this video, we're going to continue disassembly of all this steering linkage.

we're going to pull this axle out as well. and uh, as the parts start to trickle in, we can change them out. Uh, if we have time. Uh, in today's video, um I do have the seals and the uh, the U-joints for both of these axles, but I do not have the installation tool I had to overnight that thing Amazon style to get it here.

It's a giant Uh cup device that slips over the end of that axle shaft and it's designed to run that seal. That's the vacuum. The vacuum. Locker seal that rest inside of the steering knuckle.

We're supposed to drive the seal onto the axle and then we use that same seal or the same tool to drive the seal into the steering knuckle and seat it in position. uh, over here within this bore where that seal is going to ride. So we're not going to do any installation stuff cuz I'm not going to get uh, that tool in the shop today. It should be here some time tomorrow.

However, as Parts start to trickle in, we uh, should be able to get installed whatever shows up. So we're going to move on and continue with the disassembly phase in this particular truck. I Think what I should do is just go ahead and lose this tie bar assembly right here. The only thing holding it on really is going to be these two bolts right here on these two steering dampers.

So I'm going to finish pulling these guys out. We're going to lift this plate up and out of the way. and then we're going to take this whole track bar assembly uh out and set it aside. Tie bar: Sly Not track bar.

This one's the track bar. that's the one that locates the axle. Uh, Anyway, after we get this tie bar assembly out, we're going to go ahead and break that steering gear loose. Uh, from the uh, the drag link.

we're going to pull off this, uh, other steering damper? That's the factory one. Um, we're going to pull that guy off and we're just going to like I said, we're going to continue to disassemble components um, and then reinstall as uh, as new stuff triples in if you did not catch part one and would like to go back and revisit. Or if you didn't finish part one and you'd like to go back to revisit, just check for the link down in this video's description or the pin comment and it will take you back in time to the first video on this particular truck. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video uping y Hood Yeah, that part with the glasses was pretty slick don't you think? I thought so didn't even plan on it I Looked at my GoPro screen and I saw that I couldn't see myself and I was like you know what we're going to pull some nice camera action here and pull those off.

Oh gravity. Anyway, we're going to pull these. uh, pull these bolts out, removing our plate, putting our bolts back in our plate so we don't lose them. and now we can lift this, uh, this tie bar free and get it out of the way.

All right big old tie bar. This thing is not lightweight by any means. I think it's like 18 20 lb. something like that, maybe more.

Anyway, she's out of there. We'll set this guy aside. So considering that this, uh, this tie bar right here is going to be replaced and we have a steering damper that's attached to it that I'm also going to replace, we don't need to detach the steering damper from that side if we can, just pull it off right over here on this side. Fage Down.

Pull that guy off right here. Saving that. Fastener You come with me, We need you and now all we need to do is get this unit disconnected from our steering gear and then that whole assembly will drop out free and clear. So just like the tie rods, we need to pull this.

Cotter key out of here. SL Cter pin call whatever you want. It says safety device. Let's get her straight, tap it out cuz everything's a hammer kind of I Didn't say it was an efficient Hammer it's just a hammer.

Let's try to leverage this guy out of out of there. Nope. too much snippes, not enough gages. That's fine though.

we can escalate. my ability to escalate. Violence is uh, it's incredible here. Like not like, like, like real violence.

like People to People violence. I'm not that typee, but I can be violent when it comes to metal objects. There we go. Get that guy out.

Good. So let's get all the dirt off these threads. Loud noises, air blowing. Got a blow gun here, that awesome little bit of lubricant.

Good measure. and then we're going to come in. I've got a Uh Milwaukee 3/8 right angle impact that should fit in there nicely. Look at that.

Nice tight squeeze and it had the uh, the beans to pull that off. That's good. Weird. All right.

So we're going to need a pullar device here. This unit. we're going to screw in on this and it's going to leverage down on the pin, push this down, and push that up and it should break. Uh, break these guys free from each other, squeeze it in like that, wiggle it in.

Let's get this guy tight and then we'll send it with some impact action. I Think that's good? All right. Almost ready to rock and roll. I'm going to put some Hammer Taps on the back side of this just to try to drive it in a little bit further, which it's not going to go.

there. It goes. That's good, all right. Should be ready to rock and roll here.

All right. 38 coming in 24 mm socket on the 38 Milwaukee Here we go. Safety: Squints Woo and that's the track bar and steering damper not track bar. uh drag link, drag link and steering damper removed.

So next I want to pull the track bar out cuz we have to do the track bar ball joint. Okay next up this is our track bar right here. that's the one that locates the axle assembly left and right uh in relation to the frame rail and we have our track bar ball joint. so we're going to pull the bar out first and then later come in.

I will come in with a uh the ball joint press and then press this track bar ball joint out of the axle and then we can get the new one pressed in. I Think the ball joint's here. just had some parts show up. so what we need to do, we'll leave that there for safety.

We're going to break this guy loose and then we can take it off I I Don't know if I have a puller that's going to going to reach I mean I can try to use this one one we had yesterday on the Uh on the pitman arm but there's nothing really to locate it on the stud. You guys see that right there. You can't see that right there cuz yeah yeah, there's nothing really to kind of locate it on that stud. and I can't use the the nut to kind of slide over it because that nut doesn't thread down all the way.

So I don't I don't know if this is going to work I'll try it with this pull see what happens. I mean it's either going to work or it's not right. So let's see what happens. Oh, it did work.

Look at that. That was. That was easy. It didn't take much at all.

Okay, see the axle shift. That was kind of scary. So this whole thing wants to move. I'm wondering how safe this is if I were to pull this track bar out cuz you see that thing kind of came down and it's sitting on the nut.

That's why I put that nut on there for some safety precaution here. let's just see how much force we're dealing with here. Just give this a bit of a squeeze. All right, that's it's not horrible.

Let me back this nut off a little bit. I Don't think the axle is going to fall out of it if it does. I'll run. It will bring this down to like one or two threads like that.

H yeah it's a little. still got a little bit of pressure in there. Oh no, she's free. This is fine.

See that that's that's weey wobbly. We're good. disassemble complete halfth complete so we can pull this guy out later. That's super loose.

Oh yeah, here we'll save the nut cuz I don't think my new one comes with a nut. Okay, one side of our track bar has been removed. Now we we need to go circumnavigate the truck, get back to the other side and pull off those two big old bolts. There nuts, one nut, one bolt.

I think that's a 32 mil and I hope that's what it is cuz that is what is on my gun. So what I need to do is squeeze on in there like that. unclick this unit. Loud, Very loud.

Okay, back in again with the uh. very large channel locks. let's pull the rest of this bolt apart I'll take that now I should it doesn't want to come out now it does come out there. We go give this thing some wiggle action.

it's not going to work. Fry Bar: We'll give it fry bar action instead. Onan down. What's in there? Come out you bigger pry bar.

It's the biggest is there. Oh look at that. You see that it didn't fall down I couldn't do that again if I tried. look, it kind of swung down and hit that and then went this way and landed inside of the steering knuckle.

That was. That was fantastic. So I really shouldn't say it but I'm going to this is going very well. Uh, next up, just move through the The Matrix and grab the flashlight that fell next up.

Let's go ahead and work on pressing out this uh track bar ball joint right here. That's uh, that's kind of the fun part. Um, I'm going just going to try to smack it with a hammer real quick and see if I can just bash it out with a hammer. Uh, that should make the northern people very jealous of the situation which is kind of my goal on this truck.

and uh, if that doesn't work, I'll just bust out the ball joint press and then uh and send it full bore. So let's try the hammer first. What do you guys think? Is the 56 oun Hammer going to be enough to, uh, send that ball joint out of the axle? I Don't know. We're going to find out.

see what happens here? Miss that one? Nope, not enough. That's not even close to enough. It didn't even think about moving. Fail.

That's fine. We'll use the Press instead. So we've got one spacer here that's going to fit over the body of the ball joint on the top side there. see how it protrudes and kind of sits down flat.

That's going to sit over that and as we press up on it, it's going to give a space for the ball joint body to press into. Set that on top right there. That way, the Press has something to push against. so we'll take our big threaded, rotted C clamp ball joint press here.

and then we're going to find out that it's not big enough. Okay, restructuring. All right, that's not going to work. not long enough.

Get something else out here. Hang on. We be right back. Let's try this this thing.

It's not part of the ball joint kit, but the ID is the same and it is much shorter. So let's try. let's try this guy right here. Slap that on top of it.

Is that the right one? Sure. Maybe this way. Yeah, and we're really close to not being long enough. Hang on there we go now.

I Don't like that so much cuz it. this requires the uh, the press to be pushing on the stud of the ball joint. but it's kind of the best thing I got so far. So we're just going to go with this and see what happens.

It's either going to work or it's not. So let's send that one forward. see what happens. All right.

22 coming in. bottom of the ball joint press. Let's tighten this Rod up and see if it doesn't push this unit through, it compressed it. See that? Oh no.

look. I Just got it stuck. Didn't mean to do that. What? That was stupid.

Ray You just did something really dumb. No way. get back in your hole. That was ineffective.

Slightly ineffective. Tell you what. I'm going to get this nut back so it doesn't get stuck. We going to need that and need to find some other way to make this thing.

Press let's try. Maybe try that way. I Don't know how effective that could be, but yeah, we'll have to try it this other direction. like.

so slide this guy through through here. wait for that to hook up on the bottom of the ball joint and then just use the uh, the threaded portion at the top to push down against our spacer. That's probably the best thing I Got here. so let's flip the convex one away and put the concave one in.

That should give me more relief and maybe kind of help stabilize the threaded section here. Yeah, let's go with that. I've never done this ball joint before, so I I may need another special tool that I don't have in order to accomplish this. I I Do not know yet.

let's try this. right angle impact again. I don't think I have the space it working. Did it move? If it moved, we're getting somewhere.

If it didn't move, uh, might be in trouble. That was a lot of force that we just put into that ball joint. I Hope it moved. Nope.

didn't even budge. All right, more destruction. Okay, we're going to do the same thing again. I think make sure that fits.

Okay, yeah, but with one difference here. what I will do is we're going to put this guy. this little piece over the bottom of the stud and having that there is going to prevent the bottom of our press right here from riding all the way up the stud. It'll bottom it out and then, uh, hopefully that can help to, uh, keep thing in a straight line and push it in properly.

We're going to try that next. just going to keep on trying stuff till something works. That's all we can do I saw it move. Do you guys see that that think it's out, it's out Or the stud on the ball joint pressed its way through the back of the uh, the housing of the ball joint? That could happened and survey says we are out.

Yeah, show it off fall look at that. There she is. Let's get it a little closer here and examinate our surface looks pretty good. Yeah, there's no damage here.

this is just fine. Vundabar, Let's go ahead wipe that stuff out, get rid of the grease and the dirt, all that good stuff and then we can, uh, work on pressing in the replacement which has arrived. R Ring ring R There we go. Okay, we have our new replacement ball joint in position here.

We match it up to the other one. looks good. The threads are good. That threads on, that's what we need.

Same size shape Dimensions All that good stuff. So all we need to do is drop this unit down in the hole and then we'll get it pressed in. But first we'll get it started. The flashlight.

Yeah, you can probably Hammer these all the way in. I Wouldn't recommend it. The Press will work. So in order to press this in, we need something to push off of on the bottom side here.

So I've got another cone with a hole in it that's going to accommodate the stud all the way down to nearly press in all the way. So we're going to put that like so we're going to take one of the other adapter cones, stick that on top, and then we bring in the Press unit once more, or the C clamp. Rather, let's get all this set up some make sure we keep it all aligned. We don't want to press this thing in sideways like so that's good.

and then we'll just run down the uh, the tool right here and it should start to draw in the uh, the ball joint here. Watch this. There She Goes I think it's there? Sker back it off. I Think we're there? Yeah, yeah.

I think we're good here. that's at the bottom. pull. Get all the stuff out of here and it looks like gravity be with me.

Looks like we are seated flush. It's flat, not sideways. No damage looking good. That's beautiful All right.

Okie doie coming in. We've got a new track bar replacement unit right here. That thing has trickled in while we were, uh, tinkering with the a ball joint. so what we need to do is maneuver this guy right up into its bracket.

just kind of wiggle it in. coming in with the bolt bolts in and then our big nut that's coming in on our back side here and I'm going to tighten that up after this thing is on the ground. Later on and at the end of our bar over here, we've got nut in. send that guy home.

Maximum click, All right. Track bar is installed. Beautiful! Next in, I've got half of a drag link. Uh, it's also a Motorcraft part says Ford on it right here and I did did get another replacement steering damper.

I Do realize there are a pair of dual aftermarket dampers, but there's also a provision for another Factory damper on this track bar. so we have another damper. We've got the uh I said track bar. We have the drag link, but I've only got half of it.

We're missing uh, one of the tie rod in to go on that one that has not arrived yet. So let's get this guy up into our Pitman arm here on the steering gear and get on of the bolts on it. now that's secure and fastened. we can come back in and tighten that up and Cotter key it later on and then around here on this side, let's kind of set that in position a little bit if we can, which it's not going to stay until we put on the uh the steering damper.

So let's do that. uh, referencing our old one. Damper goes on the side with the uh the stud. so that's going to come down this way from this side.

I Believe, let's take this guy. slip it on in just like so and we'll put our nut on. We can tighten this nut down. That's fine.

I Think turn that this way. I Think what I'll do is just bolt this damper right to the Uh the frame right up here and that's going to help. Just secure this piece in its correct position. That'll work all right.

holding all this stuff up manually. Get our damper in. Get up there. it's a little too far extended there.

Begin threading. Please don't cross thread it right. That would not be be okay. and this is easy to cross thread too.

A big bolt. Lot of tension on it. I Think we're good right there. Okay, Little 3/8 impact coming in good.

So that side's tight. Let's move our bar back over where it's supposed to be. All this stuff is in a pretty decent alignment here. Let's get the bottom stud here.

Tight kick. Okay, that Gu is on. now. we need to tighten up that top one.

and I'm starting to run out of new parts here Back in front of the pitman arm. Let's come on in our 24. that gu tight. Good to go All righty.

So here's where we stand with our steering linkage and whatnot. I Do have one outer tie rod for our connecting link between the two wheels I'm going to reuse this adjuster bar cuz there's nothing wrong with this and we don't need to change it cuz there's no wearable Parts Uh I do not have this left side Outer tie rod and unfortunately I did not receive the tool to press in and then press in the axle assembly with regards to that vacuum seal on the end of the Hub there. So uh, I'm not going to do anything with the axles just yet cuz I don't have the tool to complete it. So let's go around here to our driver's side and finish disassembling this other side axle.

Um, if you recall, at the end of yesterday's video, we were waiting on word on whether we were going to do both axles or not. Uh, the word is a yay! So we need to pull off this adjuster. Locker little device here. We'll pull this guy out un snap ring it.

We'll lose the rotor, we'll pull the Hub and then uh, we can get that other axle out of there see how this works out. Come on out, you know somebody I Was reading comments on yesterday's video about this truck and somebody went re re re over my videos and they were saying these are too long and we could get to the point with a little bit of editing and I'm wasting time and blah blah blah and I'm like I don't know what to tell you man, it's uh, we kind of Vlog what happens around here? um I don't want to these down into 10-minute videos cuz then you guys will miss 30 minutes of other stuff to pay attention to. You know, some people take, uh, take a lot away from watching things come apart. so I'm going to keep doing what I'm doing I mean if y'all don't like the longer videos I I I don't know I mean some of some of them are longer, some of them are shorter I don't really I don't know how long they're going to be when I start Yeah, all this stuff happens organically and it is unscripted and I don't plan on it I mean I try to plan some things, but I can't plan like everything.

so I don't have that kind of control over over how long this kind of stuff is going to take. I mean I could get that kind of control over it, but that would mean I have to, uh, do a lot more clerical work when it comes to uh, planning out a video and and I'd rather just continue with the Vlog style of let's just see what happens because it's organic content and I think people like that. So I'm going to keep doing that cuz you give the people what they want. all right back side of the driver side caliper.

Let's turn that thing over. We'll get to work on the big bolts for the caliper brackets. Pull these guys out and we'll hang this caliper up on the spring just like the other side. Fetch my hook here and pull this guy apart.

There she goes. It's a heavy unit, so now what I need to do is we're going to grab the hook, hook that in, and then up on the spring. There we go. That thing is safe and secure, out of the way, no longer danger to itself or to others and that's good.

So now we can pull our rotor off of here and it's going to need a hammer. Mallet needs the big Mallet what we're looking for. ding Ginormous rotor. Okay, rotor's off now.

let's pull our wheel speed sensor real quick leg and then once this guy is out, we'll go back to the backside. Get the four nuts off of the studs for the Hub Pop the Hub out here. so same as yesterday torque spit, pop that unit out. save that for later.

Wiggle out the wheel speed sensor, just kind of tuck it up into that little Groove so it stays out of the way. There we go. We'll set this thing I'll tell you what, you know what. We're going to put that back in its hole so it doesn't get lost.

It's probably the best. Uh, practice this. Get in there please. That's good.

Okay, back two with the impact. let's get on the back side here and pull those nuts out of there spinner around. I Think those were the size were those 21s 22s this size? Let's try 22. Sure right.

Got one out. Come off, you go over there next side. Strong side. Okay, that one's out, so then we can take our knuckle, swing it around this direction, put our nut away, back around to the other backside, and then we'll get after those last two back there.

Let's see here, dude, that's three down. one to go. Got that last one? Pop you out. now.

swing this around straight again and tap the uh, the hub assembly out with a with a hammer. Moving back around here, it's good. Oh good. It moved and it stopped.

Okay. Pry bar. Not so much a pry bar. This one's more like a little pry wedge.

Mini pry bar moderate pry bar bar. There we go. get it on both sides and work this thing out. Okay, larger pry bar.

There she is. So at this point there's nothing securing this axle except for the vacuum seal inside the Hub So we go back behind here with another large pry bar and pop that entire assembly right out. See how she's going to going to work with this today or what? Yeah, it's going to come out. straighten it up, cry at it from the backside, some back again on the front side.

Ooh buddy, come on now you can do it. I need more fry action? Let me get the Uh the angled dry bar out angles angle unit coming in. Let's try that one. Really? Maybe if I hold the knuckle straight, it'll help to press to press the uh, the seal through.

It might be what it's doing. The seal is just getting hung up. Well I know that's what it's doing. That's what holds it in is a seal and I think she's freed.

Yeah, yeah, it popped out there. You go see it coming out right there. That's our outer vacuum seal finish coming out. Please came out sideways there.

Okay, that's going to come out. no problem. Let's back it up some. give us some space, give her a tug.

No. give it a pry bar tug. Yes, come out of there. there she comes.

That's the in axle on the driver side and if we look at this one, we can see this one is not bound up like the other side is. But we're going to change it anyway cuz why not? Okay folks, at this point we are fully disassembled as much as can be assembled or disassembled at this current point in time I am on a tool hold cuz I had to order the tool for these vacuum seals and I'm still waiting on a few parts to trickle in for the steering stuff. So I'm sort of stuck on. uh, on.

Well, no progress anymore for this one. There's no more for me to do so. haven't said all that. I'm going to go ahead and clean up and I'm going to close this video out or right about now I will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you guys for watching this video.

Thank you for being here until the end of the video. I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video and if you did enjoy this video, please again feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Don't forget to tap that like button while you're down there! And most importantly, every cell is a fantastic day! I'll see you guys in the next one. Thank you for watching part two I Hope you managed to catch all of part one again.

Check the link in the description down below and in the comment section if you would like to go back and revisit part one or if you missed it and as always, I'll see you on the next one. Thank you guys again! See you later! Have a great day in the video in Ford F350 F250 In the 67 in the front and steering rebuild and a fifth ball joint in a transmission.