Uh, we got the 2019. It's the Subaru the Forester the big two five. We need to give it a brake inspection. Put that back on for the fella. Uh, 70 some thousand miles on this little guy I guess and he's not happy with the braking effort or the amount of effort applied versus the amount of breaking gained I guess I Took it for a drive. It does have a bit of a spongy pedal, nothing crazy. if you climb on, the brakes heavy, they do have a bit of a shimmy. Apparently his cars never had front brakes and it's had one set of rear, so we're gonna pick it up, have a look at it, see what it needs for brakes, and see if we can get some stuff today. At least that's part of the plan anyhow. foreign quarter pad left or still I Want to pull the wheels to have a little gander and evidently these aren't super old in the back said that we did them, so they got to be good. right? Foreign 10 left. Let me grab a screwdriver here. Okay, that's really not too bad for him. Seventy some thousand stuck in the bracket. a little bit here. not completely wasted, but getting down there pretty good. Like I said, the effort was a little bit high for the amount of stopping power you had. Well, yeah, you might have had another. You know, five or ten thousand miles left in. Those pads seem to be worn, pretty, even a bit of a rust Ridge there pins are seized up. Let's pop off the other side. Yeah, about the same thing on this side. not completely spent, but just getting down there. pretty good. It really wasn't too terribly stuck, but you can see that there about the same sweet, plenty of pad here on the rear. It's kind of. look into the caliper here. it's a little better than 50 percent. Anyhow, probably closer to 65 or so pad left there. I'm just gonna have a look at the inside rotors. make sure they're you know, nice and clean like the outside here. About the look: I think he said it was about a year ago we did those. It definitely looks, uh, like some even wear these this style pad and Racket on these Subarus they are similar to The like older Chryslers No, you know, no brake hardware or anything. They don't have a tendency to seize up in the bracket, so it's a pretty good brake design for the Rust Belt Well, that was easy. Called the fella let them know where he's at with everything he said. just do it. It's if it's close, do it for less than half. Do them. Okay, so before we push the Pistons in, gonna go in with the Weezy wheel cleaning up your tool if you guys remember that. I Just like to use that to knock off some of the big chunks of rust before we go in with just your standard you know, 36 grit cookie wheel. I Get some of the big chunks off when we get in here flat. Before we push them in. that looks pretty good face. I Always look inside the caliper. you know where the pad sits. make sure there's not a lot of rust and junk on that. This one's not too bad. So now that we have you know the big chunks cleaned off, it's a lot easier to do before you push the Pistons in. We're going to take and push them in foreign. You can use a couple of you know, channel locks or two pairs of C-clamp vice grips or a little caliper pushy tool. There's a little bit of air in the boots. sometimes you can just pick them up with your fingers here on the edge, but these ones are holding the air so we'll just come in it or come at it with a bent screwdriver. Keep it pointed towards your piston. We're going to work it right under that lip of the boot where it hooks onto the piston and kind of push it back. You can see it get down in the crack and what I call burp the baby. Just pick it up and let the air out. Of course that one did not work. See if I can find that lip again underneath it. Pick it up. There it goes and then you'll see the the boot suck in. You don't have to but the chance of pinching your boot in. the pad increases. If you leave it like this. let me show you see how see how this boot you know folds back on itself like that and this one's still puffy. If you put it on your caliper bracket and you accidentally you know Bend the boot over and it gets pinched between the caliper and the pad and you don't see it, you know. Let's say it goes like that. as that piston comes out, it'll it'll rip the boot. So like I said I just come at it like this. kind of push it back. You'll see where the the boot hooks onto the Piston here, just wiggle down in that Groove Pick it up a little bit and you'll You'll see it suck right in there and then you can just let it down so that's that. that's all prepped. You can see where the rust on the rotor was hitting the caliper here. got a few shiny spots so now I'll just come in here with a stiff wire brush, knock some of the big junk off, hit it with a blow nozzle and that'll be it. You'll get about one in the Northeast You'll get about one brake job of a set of calipers. All right Subaru Because what will happen is these Pistons will Rust through and then they'll certainly can break fluid. They're pretty thick I mean as you can see, but you can see the amount of really heavy scale that builds up inside of them. So Eventually these actually rust straight through. There we go. I Think that'll be good? I'm gonna grab a 19 swiveler. We'll pop the bracket off, grab a leash because it's time to bring out the dog. Bring out this nasty hasn't made an appearance in a while. Show you how the dog does it. A little bit of an Overkill but hey, there's that. So we'll take the rotor off. It won't take it. peel the hardware off. I'm gonna go stick it in the sandblaster like we always do. We're going to clean out where the pad ears sit and where the hardware sits. Get rid of that rust and junk. Then we'll come back. We'll check our pins, make sure they're lubed up. Be ready to roll. these are 3M Stud cleaner, not a stud cleaner. It goes around. the stud allows us to clean in that portion of the Hub or at least some of it anyways. Wish someone would start making these of various diameters because it works on some, but not all. It always fits around a stud even up to I. Don't know what are these 14 millimeters or 12 millimeter? you can go up to 14s with that looks like maybe a 14 millimeter hole. but I Wish the outside diameter of the disc was bigger, but more often than not it doesn't come all the way. you know to the bottom of the Hub or the inside. Foreign some cars where this is quite Rusty In here, it could be a pain to get the rust out. A typical wire brush usually doesn't do anything to rust other than just polish it. In this case, it's taking us down to Bare Metal because this is just a little bit of surface rust because the car is only a few years old for a few years in. New York is like a lot of years in other places. All right. So I think everything's prepped and ready on this side. We just gotta wait for parts now. Well, waiting for Napa we'll pull these out and have a look. The grease item still looks really good. I Can't really justify adding anymore. I Just like chucking them anyways, you have to be really careful adding grease to the ones that have the rubber guide pin on them because it'll act like a little hydraulic cylinder. This will actually seal really well if you got a lot of grease on the back side and as it heats up, it pushes that out like a hydraulic cylinder. I've actually seen it on a few instances where it'll fry the front outer brake pad right. clean off the car. so be cautious if you're adding. you know, a ton of silicone grease to the pins if they're nice and lubed and you know no real reason to add any more, don't Good news and bad news folks. the Good news is we have brake parts here. The bad news is Napa screwed us again on our parts so we had to pull out an emergency. had to send Mrs Owen a little over an hour drive each way to the Subaru dealer to pick up some OEM Parts because hey, we're Ding Dongs We tore the vehicle apart because we trusted that Napa was actually bringing us our parts but they dropped the ball. Big Time A guy had a whole bunch of excuses. Whatever. I do like the OEM Parts on these. However, I quoted the fella on aftermarket. You know the I was going to use the Napa CR the coated rotors and the Adaptive One pads. so they're top shelf breaks. So the other bad news is I'm not making a dime on the brake job because I have to honor my price to them. It's not the customer's fault the Nampa screwed up. It's my fault for taking the car apart before I had to stuff in hand is what it is. so we're putting now with the factory brakes. If you're buying. oh you have brakes for it. You have to buy the pads and a shim kit. So don't forget to buy the shim kit. and it does come with a Molly coat grease that they they send with it. it looks like never sees. It's a gold colored Grease foreign of the shim here. I'm just using our ceramic Lube that we use on everything else. The silhouette CRC I See, it's a rubber coated shim anyways. so there's that. There's all the shims. Let's get our brackets. We'll get our brackets moved up. We'll put our new hardware on those. of course. Seeds have already been sandblasted I Think we already discussed that and we're a little under the gun because this fell is supposed to be here. Not too long of a Time to pick the car up because I Thought we had plenty of time. It's kind of like reality TV except if we don't get it done, we don't lose everything. It's like they do in reality. TV You know, because their entire business plan is always hinging off the profit of one vehicle, right? All the shims are the same, so we'll stick these in any old place. Okay, the wear indicator does need to go towards the bottom, on the lower side or on the Leading Edge I Guess it would be. Let's see. So that goes. This bracket goes like this. so we want this one here. We'll be on our outside. Stick that in too, because that's also like an anti-rattle hold spring tension out on it. It's gonna be a little bit of a piss pot to get in there. Come on baby. Get her lined up ever so nicely. It does have some tension on it because the wear indicator is also a spring that pushes out towards the abutment hardware. Make sure it's click down all the way. Same thing here. Oops, you gotta get there I guess so you just gotta be careful pushing. You don't want to push it too far, but they should move freely. You can kind of hear us squawking on that spring, but they do move nice and free. So the wear indicator like I say has quite a bit of outward tension on it, so that's what you hear. kind of creaking back and forth there. Foreign folks slap that baby back on, give that a little blast of fluid film. kind of keep it from getting so rusted. Yeah! I Don't think it's gonna work. Stick an axle nut on here and take up some space just to hold that for us. Take our loaded assembly here. Slip that baby right on there. hit the bolts starting yet. Oh some days I Hate Napa Let's see I Hate Napa Song We sing it. Some days it's a lot of paint we have I'll snug this baby up to the correct Fdlbs's We're going to let our caliper down here. We'll put a little bit of Bluebonnet and slip that baby on so we want to a little rust off of there. We're going to lube any metal to metal contacts. That's gonna help alleviate any squealing. So where the caliper here meets the pads? We put a little grease on it and then we'll put a little bit of caliper grease on the Piston faces here. Or you can just Lube the back side of the pad. Either way, Foreign like I Say these Pistons are going to rust out anyways by the next brake job. So we'll go like this. slip it over there, we'll find our bolts and get them in there. Beautiful. foreign. Going for a rep we're going to take put the wheels back on obviously before we go drive it. Step two: we'll pump up the brakes. We don't go slinging out into the street, check our brake fluid, make sure it's full. Kind of curious. You know, looking in service data, it's down in the comments. Every time you do a brake job, everybody chimes in saying oh, you should open the bleeder. You should, you know, close the bleeder, you should empty out the reservoirs plus brakes. You should go jump off a bridge. you know. They give me all the advice they can and I always look in service data just to kind of go along with them to see what service data says. and it's not too often you run across in service data where they tell you to open the bleeder before you push the Pistons back in like rarely do you find it at service data and same thing with Subaru Subaru. Service data was very big. Uh, they don't even tell you to push the Pistons in, remove the caliper body, replace the pads, put the caliper body, back on. Here's your torque specs. Have a nice day, All right. Foreign. Here we go. foreign sometimes. I Guess you don't realize how different the pedal feel is with old brakes versus new brakes. Even brakes like this that aren't even set in this pedal's quite sensitive. Thank you, thank you. That's it folks. Front brakes on your Forester Of course that's using the OEM stuff. not really much different than using you know, your aftermarket. so pretty much the same process you just have to remember when you call to get them from the Subaru make sure you get all the all the different parts. the shims butman Hardware all that stuff. and uh, Subaru ordering their OEM Parts can be kind of tricky because when when you order the rear brakes for these from Subaru they come with the shim kit, but when you order the front, they don't I Don't know, it's just kind of one of those weird things you keep in your noodle because you've gotten boned by Subaru just like you got boned by Napa You just get ahead of yourself and you order stuff and you think it's going to be right and then whatever. Dude, Um, that's it. The whole job went pretty smooth, turned out good. The brake effort is now minimal for the amount of stopping power output by the Subaru so that's how about you guys out put some comments into that comment section insty: Facebook You guys know where to find us while you're down there. Subscribe: Make sure you ring the bell I Don't have to keep telling you but I Do just my reviewers. If I can do it, you can do it. Thanks for watching.