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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Hello Everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! In this episode, we return to our 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback limited all-wheel drive and 2.5 liter flat opposing boxer style four-cylinder engine. It is here primarily to have a Uh, a plethora of oil leaks cleaned up on it. It had a leak at the transmission pan, a leak at the engine oil pan. It had a leak at the two valve covers on both sides.
It had another leak of engine coolant down here at the water pump. and since we had to pull the timing cover off to change the water pump, I Went ahead and got a water pump and timing kit. So we're going to replace the timing belt, the water pump, timing, chain, tensioner, words and I think there might be some, uh, some pulleys in that kit as well. Regardless, I have all the components here I've been waiting a few days for the kit to show up.
Uh, I did not get a Gates kit and I also did not get an Asian kit. I got the import direct kit because that was the only one available and this one still took me nearly a week to acquire. So I've used these before. This is what we're going to use I find it to be an acceptable replacement component.
So let's get this. uh, this stuff unboxed here. We have some Loctite We've got a belt, we have a water pump, we have some gaskets, we have some idler pulleys, we've got a crank gear, and yep, there's our tensioner with our grenade pin. Looks like everything that I need to complete this under or this engine timing job is present now.
I've already referenced the uh, the timing mark chart you can see here. We've got all the marks and everything lined up over here on the vehicle. The corresponding marks are also lined up. two Marks here on the cams.
one Mark right here on the crank. Two more marks down here on the cam so it is ready for me to continue to disassemble. So let's go ahead and pull this timing. uh, timing belt tensioner off and we'll pull the belt.
Once the belt's off, we'll pull the pulleys. Once pulleys are off, we'll go ahead and pull the water pumps and then we'll go from there. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video. All right.
we're down below. here. there's our tensioner. There's our tensioner bolt that holds it to the block.
I'm going to go ahead and crack this thing loose and we're gonna back this uh, tensioner out and as I do that, it will untension and then come free and then we can pull the belt. All right, that's loose. Let's get the Electron ratchet more speed. Get my hand on that tennis here so it'll be falling out and we are now loosey-goosey and I heard a washer fall I See it? I'll retrieve it.
Gonna need that for the back side of the new tensioner. Come here washer I need you I'll put this with the old tensioner for now and I'll recover that later. Okay, let's go ahead and we will pull our belt out of here. I'm taking care of not putting any load on the cams I Don't want them to, uh, spring out of position.
This is an interference engine I believe and I don't want to hurt anything. So we've got. oh, the belt's off. Let's go ahead and start pulling the pulleys. We've got one rib pulley, two smooth base pulleys. Let's get in there and get these guys removed real quick with some unclick action. Come on now again. I'm keeping everything together for reference for later on.
This one out, come on and one more way way down there. I Know it's kind of dark in here. sorry I've got lights everywhere, but it's hard to get them to go down into these. Uh, no.
these. Deep Dark Places Okay, that's both. uh, those smooth face pulleys and the one rib pulley. Very good.
All right. Going back in, we've got some 10 mil bolts for this water pump. Start breaking these loose. We'll get the top ones from up here first and then we'll uh, we'll go down below and pull the hose.
Pluck these guys out. there's one next. They appear to all be the same length. That's good.
Next one, sneak you. come on. that one doesn't want to come out. What is this? It's not turning very very well.
Hmm, that doesn't feel very good. So I've got two choices. Hit that with a bigger impact gun or try to try to work it out. I Imagine there's some corrosion in there and uh yeah, yeah, this doesn't feel very good.
I'm now I'm nervous I'm gonna keep working this back and forth I believe there's some corrosion in there I need to just let it break up. So I'll keep back and forth and back and forth on this bolt until it starts to get free and comes out. go too hard. it'll break off in the block.
Yeah. I can feel the Fastener flexing. We need some lubricants in there. That's this is not okay.
This is actually an emergency bad emergency. Let's try some lubricating lubricant here. Close that down some. hopefully some will soak in enough to uh to get that loose.
In the meantime, I'm gonna get the other bolts loose if they will come loose and uh, maybe I can separate this water pump from the Block a little bit and let some of that uh, penetrating oil soak back behind it into the threads. Um, why won't I get a hold of that bolt? What's the deal here? There's another bolt right there and I can't get a get my socket onto it. They're different size? Sure. Yeah.
I'll come back to that one later. Let's get the one there. It is one below it. got it.
Yeah, you can see see that corrosion on the end here. That's what's going on on this bolt over here. It makes me, uh, nervous thing. I can't reach that one.
The fangies are too fat. There we go. Yeah, look at that. more corrosion on the end of this.
Uh, this bolts as well. Is it Loose yet? I Think that's all of them. That one got that one? Got that one? Yeah, that's all of them. Okay I'm gonna go in there with some fry bar.
We're gonna try to break this loose from the surface. That way I can attempt to, uh, get, uh. get some penetrating oil behind. There we go. Bolts fell out. Oh, that was from up top right here. That was me anyway. so it's now broken loose.
Throw some more oil back there. Maybe those threads will soak it up. going in again. Dangerous moment.
Tighten that. Bolt Yeah, it's turning, it turns, but it likes to get locked up. It's loose in the bolt. Come on out of there.
You see it turned a little bit, then it got stuck. Actually, get some more spray in there. Now we'll tighten it again and hopefully tightening it will carry some of that lube into those threads. Help break them loose or break up some of that corrosion that's in there.
Okay, come on, come on out of there you. I am so up a creek if this thing breaks off, it will not be okay. See everything in the sky? side of me screams you know, just send it But that is the way to ruin an engine block. We don't want to do that.
That would be bad. Well, it's coming farther than it had before. Come on out baby. Come on.
Oh God no God please No no no no, no foreign broke it off. That's it. I'm I'm in trouble now. Oh no, don't make fun of me.
I'm in trouble. Bolt broke off in the engine block for a water pump. It's not funny. It's not funny.
No I'm not laughing I Just bought an engine. Yeah, there it is right there. That's the bolt. Well okay, so there happens to be some of that stud still sticking out.
So what I'm going to do is I'm gonna put a nut over it and see if I can't weld that nut on. That's all I can do right now is try to get that thing to weld on. Maybe I can work it Loose again. perhaps the heat will break up some of that corrosion.
I've got. uh, we got the other side of the bolt here. see it broke off I've got about a quarter of an inch sticking out of the head or out of the block. So I've only got like an eighth of an inch left to go to get this to walk out.
I'm hoping that the heat will help us out, but let me get a buzz or a weld bust onto that. I Guess we'll go from there fingers crossed guys. I'm not happy. Very very not happy right now.
This is bad. So here what I'm going to do is put another bolt into this and I'll use this bolt to connect my ground to to the welder and I can try to buzz uh, well as a bead onto that nut right there and maybe it'll come out I Don't know guys. I'm scared like a lot. I'm not a welder.
this is the car that defeats me. I Hope not begin welding now. Oh, power outage. Too many amps overloaded my power strips.
There we go. Sorry on No. I blew up the breaker with my welder Bluetooth Mode Okay, let's see what happens. Pull that guy off some.
I'll try to tighten it this time since it was coming out loosening which is not gonna work I'm so screwed. Where is it and it's gonna break off and it broke off? That's great. We're breaking off even closer to the Uh, closer to the block. This is fantastic. All right. I've got another nut kind of buzzed. On to whatever's left of that stud and see if it's going to do anything. It turned.
What? I Don't know is if the stud is turning or if the Weld and the nut is just turning off, it appears maybe the stud's turning and it's going to break. See? that's a good turn out of it? See that? Oh, it is. It is kind of loose. okay and then a meat resistance.
like right here again. maybe more. Lube I'll keep going back and forth with it. let the lubrication Wick into the threads.
That's all I can do is go back and forth. a free, then it. then it stops again. Ah please come out.
I Don't want to buy a Subaru engine. especially after having made an attempt to fix all the stuff on this this particular engine. Is it coming out? Get out of here. What? No, it's not.
It broke off. okay. try it again. More Lube It's a disaster.
Okay, another nut coming in. I'm gonna start running out of spare nuts here in a minute. Oh by the way, I am letting this cool down between attempts I just am editing that part out just so you guys know every time. I weld you're like let it cool off and I'm like I know.
but I have to edit that out because you guys don't want to stare at a bolt. or you know, 15 minutes. So yeah, so there. So huh? Okay welding again.
see if this is gonna work or not. Um, some heat into it? Okay, Bolt number five or six welded on and kind of cooled off. it's gonna break right off. Oh man, we've been here before, but not on the front of an engine block.
This is. uh, it's not okay. I'm gonna have to try to build this stud up some and put another bolt on it. Get it welded? Yeah.
fail foreign. just Build It Up What's up? Oh yeah, go ahead good. You're all right. Keep building it up and building it up.
and maybe I can, uh, get that nut welded on. forget one welded on. it's gonna stay I don't know that was horrible for me I am so stress peaked right now. It's not even funny because if I can't get this out, this engine is over with and that is not okay.
not okay at all. I wanted to fix this engine, not blow it up. Come on. All right.
Well, there's a good glob of a bead on the front of that stud. Maybe just maybe not a welder and it shows right? Come on. I know I know I'm ruining the engine I have no other choice. Get the thing out or remove engine.
Not what I wanted to do. Not at all okay going in with another nut Lagoon my nut sizes have gotten larger. Come on. Strike work.
Thank you. Let's get in there real deep black. All right. let's let this one cool and try it again.
Okay, going in another socket. Let's go ahead and break this one off next. I Give up. They're all just going to break right off.
There's there's yeah. broke that one off too. but hey, look, at least it took the uh, the gasket with it. That's fun. We're so screwed guys. This engine's uh I don't think it's gonna make it I can't get uh I just can't get the thing to come out. hmm what do I do? What do I do guys do you know is that uh, this is not looking okay Hey on the bright side, I got the gasket off that was actually protecting the block. So now that we've lost that I mean can I put it together without the bolt? That's horrible.
Probably not going to work because I'm pretty sure that bolt needs to be there for something probably to seal the water pump. I don't think that, uh, pulling that out it's gonna or leaving it out, it's gonna help. This is not really one of those optional bolts that I can just omit. not even close man.
Well I do see a nice looking flat spot on a on that bolt. Maybe I can drill this thing out some so you owe me. That's all. I got left is to try to just drill it out.
see if I can't get it close enough to the threads where they want to release kind of flat. Begin the hackery now yo. Oh you can set that. just set it down right there.
That's fine. Thank you sir. Appreciate it. Unbelievable.
Rinse it off you know I Wanted to make this video about finishing this job not making it. harder. This is not how I wanted this to to work out at all right guys. Um, the party's over for this one.
I had I hammered out an easy out in there and I was trying to back the easy out off out and off where it's I was trying to back it out with the easy out in there and the easy out snapped off inside of my hole. Now it's not even possible to drill I am I'm so I'm in trouble. This is. uh, this is not okay.
I I don't know what to do I'm not sure how to, uh, how to undo this. Uh, my only option here is to either leave the bolt out and hope it doesn't leak which it will or pull the engine and try to drill this out or just get a go find another block. uh I I'm at a loss right now I don't even know I'll be back in a minute I need to clear my head I don't know what to do I'm I'm not having a good day. This is bad.
This is remarkably bad. Okay, well we uh we know the bad news. um I do have good news I have uh I have been in contact with Eric from I do Cars YouTube channel and as you guys know if you guys watch his channel he uh he operates a very successful uh Salvage operation in Missouri and uh I I got a hold of him. He's reaching out to his Network and he's gonna find us a replacement unit.
So this this job is definitely escalated. So we're gonna pull this unit out of the car. We're gonna take off all the parts that we just put on this one. Uh, we're gonna slap those in the new unit.
That's gonna be the valve covers. Uh, it's going to be the new water pump, the timing kit. So everything from that we have purchased here today for this car is going to go into another engine. This engine's coming out. That means we're gonna do the oil pan reseal on the new one. We're gonna do a rare crankshaft seal on the new one. We're probably gonna do intake gaskets. It is what it is.
So I've I've ordered another motor, we're going to replace this one. I have admitted defeat I Like I said I tried to drill this out again in order to install a Time cert. but since I broke that easy out off inside, my drill bit's walking sideways and I'm starting to cut away into uh into the metal on this engine block. I'm I'm all out of the a lot of possibilities to uh to reclaim this failure right here.
and uh I've conceded defeat. So we're buying a new motor. Hooray! It's not what I wanted to do today or this week, but it is what it is. So uh, since I appear to be at a stopping point at this point I guess um the only thing left for me to do is go ahead and close this video out.
As always: like thank you for watching this video Breaking the gravity I hope you enjoyed this video I know I did not enjoy this video well I mean I enjoyed making the video but I didn't enjoy how it happened that's for sure. Let me know what you think about it in the comment section down below. Drop me a like or a dislike while you're down there. and most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a better day than what I'm having.
Have a great day! See you later in the video in the transmission into Subaru 2.5 liter dual cam 4 cylinder if I only knew old.
Yeah, that's unfortunate. I speculate that the water pump had already been replaced at some point and the previous guy did not blow out the threads in the engine block and the bolt corroded with the remaining coolant.
really thought you were gonna work it free, the ole half a turn too much, it Happens
New block ????????????? your insane……..even with the ezy out stuck drill out retap even if you use $100 worth of drill bits …….Amature at best
Duncan Cremin comment is the best method given this particular situation.
Just a thought; could you grind the stud flush and spot weld a stud onto it? Just sayin.
PS I just noticed that someone already commented on welding a stud onto the broken bolt. There's nothing to be ashamed of if you keep the customer in the loop.
Kudo's to you, your honesty, work ethic and professionalism. Old machines are risky to work on and you can't always anticipate what can break in the process of repairing it. If I were the customer I would be open to sharing some of the cost of engine replacement. After all the owner has gotten his/her money's worth on the car a few times over. Spending extra for an engine is still cheaper than buying a new car. Just sayin.
Bummer dude. I was I was rooting for you man.
I watch this video cuz I just had all this work done to my car. Then 2 days into it mechanic calls it's going to be another day or so had to order something a belt or something, he never did tell me what it was. So I suspect they ran into an issue with one of the bolts.
Now I have all these issues a high and rough idle, hard start, engine knock especially around 2k rpms. It's been back once for leaks & going back again. I had to tell them to replace the VVT seal now they will check PCV valve. They also did not replace the tensioners or idler. At the beginning I told him I wanted a new serpentine belt and thermostat. All I got was the serpentine belt. Apparently now I need a power steering hose and bracket never had any power steering leaks. Whatever ! They put my new spark plugs in & charged labor even though valve gasket replacement required removals of plugs.
Just for Giggles if you have a moment how much would it cost if you did this job on 09 Ody?
Thanks for all the great videos. Have a better day.
That's tough ma man!
Good work Ray it reminds me of when I used to be a tech in California. I miss it thanx
i would suggest you spend several hours if not days learning to drill and tap holes until you finally get it .Replacing an engine for a broken bolt is not even an option. You will never stay in business with poor problem solving skills.
What bad luck. So much work caused by one stink'n bolt.
Oh damn dude I can feel the anxiety. I just watched you live one of my worst nightmares.
Oh dude… that bites
Fixing cars for a living isn’t for the faint of heart 😮
Go to home depot and get a 1/4 diamond hole saw. To put on your impact gun.
Then re-tap the 1/4 hole. Problem solved
Ray I know you feel like you made a mistake, but you're wrong. It wasn't you. The car is 24 years old. You know everybody makes mistakes. All the greatest chefs make mistakes, but they eat them! That's how they get to be great chefs! These cars are a bear to work on even when they're not that old. It's what makes a Rubasu a Rubasu!
you can purchase some left hand drill bits , grind bolt smooth, center punch bolt, start off with small bit increase every other bit size and when you get almost to the largest start drilling and see what happens. I think you'll be surprised and happy.
You just provided a 25 min video of my worst nightmare when doing auto repair. OK, before you pull the motor, think about this. Drill the sucker all the way out and either insert a THREADSERT or weld in a threaded rod and put a nut on the end.
Have a machineshop drill it out and tap a new tread, you might have to use a bolt 1 size bigger but you can still save the engine. Done it lots of times on exhaust manifolds never had one that leaked.
Love the content man.
You know the saying “every 20 minute job is one broken bolt away from being a 3 day ordeal”.
Someone in the area has to have a portable edm broken tap remover. If not, you can buy a cheap Chinese unit for about $400. It appears there is enough room in front of the engine to get it in, even if you have to make a small fixture to locate off of the other water pump bolt holes. Burn it out and go with the time zert.
As for Ideas I have none, I will say this you are a talented mechanic. Knowing this I can see it was not you best day and everyone has them, you did your best and this time it came up short.
What does everybody think of Acetone mixed with ATF as a penetrant? I saw a video where it was demonstrated to be by far the best. Way better than Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, although it stinks real bad and you have to air out your shop after you use it. Fumes may be harmful. Wear a respirator. But is it possible it could have prevented this?
Oh find a copper tube the same diameter of the the bolt weld thru the copper to make a new bolt. The weld will not stick to the copper. And will give u something to weld a nut to.
Have broke easy outs on aircraft and have used an easy out removal tool . Doesn’t always work but does most of the time. Next time just drill out broken stud and put a heliacoil thread insert in.
A slow buzz is what I want
Why not just use a helicoil thread insert . Done it many times on cars and aircraft. Very easy
On ur welder turn the wire back. Or more heat less wire speed. My man as slow as possible can give u a better weld.
i was refreshing a old 302 block for my ranger and had the same stuff go sideways. two intake manifold bolts, and a water pump bolt. i started with drilling, but made sure to punch a centerpoint for the drill. took it way out to the edge and ran a tap to clean the threads. last one the tap snapped. pick and small needle nose and finally backed it out. what a pita. goodluck!
I work on tractor trailer s. When I get something like this I spray the bolts and let it set for 24hours
Take the head off the engine and go at it from inside????????????/
Being a mechanic is a TOUGH job. I remember when a car was a car. Now their a computer that they put four wheels on. Ridiculous. You mechanics really earn your money nowadays.
In the UK when this happens, when easy outs snap. Call a firm that does spark erosion, snapped glow plugs and stuck spark plugs removed easily.
Love the content as always. Sorry, this job sucked. I've seen lots of other people say Flux core is better for this because the gas cools the bolt too much. That Flux core will hold better because of that. Never underestimate the holding power of jb weld. If it was mine and I couldn't extract it or install new threads, I'm not above trying it. At that point, you have nothing to lose.
Could of either tried to unwind the bolt before letting it cool down get an induction heater around what was left of the stud so it heats up all the way down the stud into the block to loosen it or even as i have just once or twice…… welded a long enough stud/bolt onto the broken end and leave it as is (making sure its clean/ straight etc) refitting the pump use a nut to fasten down that one and the remainder with the original bolts 😁
You live and learn 😂
Ray, Matco makes a set of left handed drill bits with correlating extractors. I did maintenance in the Goodyear tire plant in Lawton oklahoma, that makes tires, for years and i never broke an extractor. In fact, all the other maintenance technicians would come borrow my set from me and they never broke them either. I highly recommend you get that Matco set. I don't know that it will help you here if you can't get the broken extractor out but it will help for another sticky bolt in the future. I noticed the drill bits you were using are right hand bits, switch to left hand bits in the future for this kind of stuff if you don't buy the Matco set.
I would give it a go without that bolt.
If it doesn't work out then ok.
I did this with an exhaust manifold once with long term success.
Those bolts only need to be tightened to 8.7 ft ilbs. That practically hand tight.
I would not reuse those bolts.
Instead I would replace them with studs, nuts and lock washers. Cut to size of course.
That way you don't have to worry about them seizing up again.
I would also make an additional gasket out of 1 mm oil impregnated gasket paper
to supplement the stock one. You can buy it online.
Then see how that goes after a few heat cycles.
The other thing is metal epoxy. This is what it is used for. It's really good stuff.
I would drill that hole out as much as I could, fill it with metal epoxy, insert a stud, clean up the face and
temporarilly mount the pump to line up the stud and nut properly. Just let it dry over 24 hours.
Degrease it of course. Get rid of all that penetrating oil
Like I said, 8.7 ft lbs isn't a lot and in my experience it would hold it easily.
Go with the paper gasket also for good measure.
I reckon it's worth a try before go swapping out the motor.
That seems more of a last resort than a first to me.
You need to be more patient ….Deepest condolence to the owner of the car,it happens..
Ray, watch some episodes of Subi performance, need to drill the stud out oversize then use a helicoil to the original size. You'll have to get better access to the front.
I had the same thing happened to me on a boat Stern Drive I welded a nut on and managed to get it out
Why would the block replacement be on you. You didnt cause the corrosion. The age of the vehicle is not your fault. it is great for the customer that you are willing to go to that extent. I just dont see why the expense should be your burden.
Oh damn
Maybe @abom79 can suggest something
Been here so many times Ray. Tend these days to heli coil when I can. Does mean getting the bolt centre right for drilling and that can be a pain in itself but if the thread is only partially damaged its possible to get away with things
I'm afraid i've never had any luck with easyouts, they always either break and make the job worse or just can't shift whatever i'm trying to move. In this situation once the welding nut trick had failed I would have just drilled it right out and put a helicoil in it. Hindsight through is always 20/20!
Bugger you had a crap day Ray but not your fault at all . Welding had nothing to do with getting that bolt out. Keep up the great work.
Why did you not just drill out the bolt after the first failed attempt and either use a thread insert or go up a diameter size on the replacement bolt, either way you were re-tapping that hole. The threads were done on that hole so there was no saving it and definitely no chance of an ez-out escape. to get the the snapped ez-out out you just need impacts with a pointed punch to nudge it clockwise.
Oppsie
buying an engine because of a water pump bolt HAHAHAHAHAHAH so clownish
Ridgid 35580 is the tool to use to extract broken bolts.
60% of the times it works every time 😂
Ray, your integrity is such that you included this video as part of the process. Some might be inclined to just make this job "disappear" from YouTube viewers and move on. You show the realities of wrenching on cars, warts and all. Sometimes, we learn solutions together.
You'll get this figured out, and then it's on to the next job.
Sad, but these things happen …. Remember Always look on the bright side, even when things go wrong!
Ive had this happen before. Pain in ass but as you went to far trying to weld, drill and tap
I hope that all goes well, praying for mate
The fact the easy out broke does not mean it’s new engine time. There are many ways to get it out. Don’t give up yet!
Hi Ray, i feel your pain with this.firdt off kudos to you for not just bodging it up and running. Equally important, i wouldnt change anything in regards to the approach so far. Nothing to lose now. Is it worth getting a stud welder and trying to weld a threaded stud onto this and using a nut on the end? The only reason i ask this as this fixing doesn`t need to be trumendously tight? Also welding it will soften the stud extractor and may give you a chance of drilling it.nothing to lose i guess
I'd put the pump back in place and drill and tap a new hole👍
Not drilling dead center and trying the easyout were bad decisions😢
I was asked to try to remove an aluminum fitting from a magnesium gearbox housing. I used an ez out also and it snapped off. It was then out of our hands, I think they took it to have someone use an edm machine to remove aluminum around the ez out. That gearbox goes on an F-15.
You literally have proven the adage of "Every 20 minute job is 1 broken bolt away from a 20 hour ordeal"
oh no!! this sucks! I've been there! I would have done the same as you did, I thought for sure you were going to get it, good try Ray solid effort
Ray did you drill all the way through the bolt or leave a blind hole?
If you drilled through just drive the broken piece through into the cavity behind the bolt
Sorry as a 71 year old retired mechanic I just couldn't sleep thinking about it
Show the owner this video.
Ask then what they want to do.
.threebond sealant.
And sally's kneed it in The bolt hole .
Or even a alloy studd. And have it weilded to the block .and use a nut to hold the pump on
Ray. I love your videos.
I think what some people said about putting the pump back on and drill it out is the best solution. But there is allready an easy out in the hole 😮. That sux bigtime.
Maybe next time heat up the bolt. Let it cool. Heat up…let it cool. Do this multiple times. Use oxe acetylyne and focus the flame only on the bolt. The last time you heat it up and directly spray cold freezing lubricant on it. Its so freezing cold that the bolt is rapidly getting thinner and maybe maybe you get the bolt out. This trick saved me a couple of times.
Another option was after putting the pump back on…. Use a cobalt left threaded drill and drill the sucker out. An easy out is expanding the bolt youre trying to get out. The easy out is gonna break really fast when you put pressure on it.
Ray keep up the good work and i really like your videos. Greetings from the Netherlands
I feel your pain. Not your fault, old car.
Hi from the UK Ray, if you have any EDM or Spark Erosion companies close by they can get this out for you. The cost is high (here anyway) but it may be less than a new mill.
Keep ip the great work and all the best from blighty
DOH! It happens. Could you possibly not just weld a stud on? Then use a nut to retain the water pump.
Another trick is to drill a hole thru the bolt and use a syringe to inject aluminum naval jelly until it oozes and let set for an hour before trying an easy out. Also. Never use an easy out when parts are hot or even warm.
Ray I have removed 100s of this type of bolts and the first step is to stop and think before making it worst and in my experience if heat hasnt made a difference then dont even consider an easy out
To remove this I would have used the water pump housing as a drill guide to centre drill the end of the bolt then moving in small increments starting with 3mm then 3.5mm then 4mm until you get to the inner diameter of thread 5mm for a 6mm bolt then you have a chance of getting the remaining thead out if this can be done then run a tap down to clean it up or a drill to set up a thread insert
Takes time but nearly always works
Next time, do not try welding a nut and go straight to drilling. Drill to just below the thread size, pick it out and run through with a short tap being careful to evacuate in between plunges.
As Niel Diamond would say 'Some days are diamond and some days the stud breaks off" ?
Great Video I hate when corrosion is like that you did your best to save the bolt but either way your at least still going to help the customer out and not shaft them like some places would.
I've Been there before I've never had any luck with those easy outs either every time I've used one they always just snap off what I've always found useful though if I have that much stud sticking out is grabbing a pair of needle nose Vice grips and using them to just work it back and forth so more of the stress is throughout the stud or bolt. Also a little heat never hurts I work on cars where we get snow so corrosion lock is major problem so I feel for you. Great Video and keep up the great work.
I hope you used green loctite
Can’t you tap in a new thread and just use a different bolt?
Drill through the centre of the bolt and keep going up in size till the thread collapse
Bro, try to drill out the ez out w/a cobalt or covan drill bit once the drill bit catches the ez out will come out!!!
I feel so empathetically sorry for you I've been exactly where you were (customers vehicle ,bla, bla bla) I have had success with others by giving the bolt a wack with the ball peen and a pin punch as well as heat and lube. Sometimes two people one with a ring spanner and the other with constant blows with the hammer and punch while tension with the ring spanner. Ultimately sometimes they just want to destroy you. Thanks for the post.
HOLY SHIT RIP 2.5 LT . but it is a good video M8
This is the time when you need a couple of empty brake cleaner cans to help with the frustration
Get a set of reverse drill bits…..done
Whats up with those bolts though? Are they just poorly specced by subaru, or are those bolts not to the required spec? Talk about too easily corroded, or some mystery metal almost but not completely the opposite to having the right makeup to prevent galvanic corrosion- and having nowhere near the right tensile properties
Come on Ray, that easy out will come out, I have done more than a few. This is a typical day in the life of a northern mechanic, especially a machinist.
You can burn that broken E/Z out with a plasma cutter, then drill new larger hole with cobalt drill bit , then install heli-coil
As someone who deals with rusted junk all the time I feel your pain. For me I would grab an old water pump, toss it on a drill press or better a mill, and drill the mounting hole out to accept a hardened bushing that is a size smaller internally than the broken bolt. Then bolt the pump on. Lube the crap out of the bushing. Then use a carbide end mill that slips into the bushing to cut the bolt and easy out out of the hole. Cut a second or two, blow the chips out and repeat until the hole is open. Now go in and clear out what is left of the bolt threads with a drill and install a time-sert. Have done this a few times on blocks and heads where the corrosion or the ham fisted moron cross threaded bolts in aluminum. Basically the same process you use to drill out manifold bolts, just using the water pump as the guide (and to keep the swarf out of the engine)
You are an excellent businessman, buying another engine even though you were not responsible for the bolt breaking off. Three cheers for Eric for finding another engine. I think you and Eric make great, informative videos.
Chris Fix woulda fixed it with some JB…
One less leaky,misfiring crap subaru engine in the world,happy days,Ray,happy days.
Can you do a mini next…
Broke off a tap in an aluminum clamp, gave it to my uncle to take it into his machine shop he worked at and they " burned it out" .
Many years later while working in machine shop found out they most likely did it on a EDM machine.
Also broke off an EZ out in a stub broken stub ( steel) in guitar trem block, think I will invest in left hand spiral drill for next hand drilling a broken stub next time! I think EZ outs only good if using a drill press or similar because Amy side play or excess twisting will just break EZ out !
Drill baby drill!
you will get i would have you should have comments on this, ive got my own ideas on this problem but it depends on the situation.
Like other comments said. Pull the motor out. Should take you about an hour with a 15 minute break. Then you can drill it out or weld on a nut. I always tend to warm up the bolts a little to hopefully loosen up the corrosion. Sometimes works sometimes not. Just wait until you break off an idler pulley bolt or two.
Weld to the easyout and extract. Bolt old w.p. on an use as a guide. Use a carbide end mill cutter to cut the old bolt. Then proceed onto rethreading for recoil or similar.
I would def spend another hour trying to extract easyout.
Once thats gone the end mill is the prefect answer as they dont drift like drills do
Never use a easy out on a major bolt brake …….. THAT'S A NO NO
Mate! What a PITA. From where I'm sitting, you did everything humanly possible to avoid the situation that arose.
Sometimes excrement eventuates no matter what one does to avoid it.
What impresses me (and I'm sure others too) is that you didn't just give up when the bolt broke off; you worked and re-worked the problem trying to resolve it in your favour. However, sometimes the physics and chemistry of corrosion refuses to comply with one's desires and efforts.
It was an old bolt, in an old engine, securing the water pump to the engine block. Dollars to doughnuts, there's been some leakage or seepage of water/coolant resulting in an electrolytic solution which has allowed corrosion to occur. If the bolts were steel and the engine block aluminium, it corrosion/electrolysis will occur.
Anyway, I'm sure the Youtube/engine mechanics network will swing into action and we'll soon be watching a Subaru engine-swapout video in the very near future.
I'll be waiting for it with my popcorn 🍿 at the ready!
Ray I truly feel for you. I nearly shook a seven holding my breath I so wanted that particular bolt to come out. It’s great that you have connections to get the job done. There is one thing you didn’t try. It isn’t an easy fix yet I know you could do it. Peace…H
The amount of broken easyouts I've removed over the years is incredible. Suggest making a plate about 5/8 thick you can bolt onto the face and the hole with the broken easyout you only drill it to the pilot size of the tapping drill you can use the pump for an accurate template and you only need a couple of bolts to pull it up. Then drill it with a carbide slot drill or a cobalt flat bottom drill. Needs to be flat to stop it running of center. Good luck i can very much sympathise with you.
In the past I had good luck with using a small pair of vice grip pliers instead of trying to weld a nut on
I feel your pain but it’s a bad design that has caused the issue not you.
Hi Ray I have seen this problem before if there's only a couple other threads left in the block you can drill it out threads and bolt or with the engin out then there is a process called spark erosion which will remove the bolt / easy out
Possible to weld a stud into place and then use a nut to secure the pump instead?
Oh mannnn Ray. We've all been there before. I could feel the struggle throughout this process to ultimately end the way you work so hard to avoid. I had this happen on a 95 Millenia with the 2.5L KL, on a bolt next to the frame rail. I ended up welding threads to the broken off bolt and using it as a stud with a nut. It worked, but I wasn't proud. Glad I could come up with an engine to help you get this thing back on the road.