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Well, I just spent like uh, 40 minutes looking for a Jeep key and turns out it was being held hostage by a project Jeep uh in the midst of whatever I was doing yesterday I set the key down on the fender and and then forgot it was there. which was that was my fault because I did not uh, follow the proper chain of custody procedures. Anyway, this is a 2018 Jeep Sahara Four-door I think it's a JK Jeep It was involved in a collision. The body work has since been repaired, but uh, it has a bent left front steering.
novel. That aluminum knuckle in there took a nasty hit. so we're going to pull that knuckle off. We're going to change the bearing, the knuckle.
We're also getting a new tire and a new wheel because it did take the hit right there. it was run into like from the front going in that direction. There was also some bumper damage that's uh, been repaired and replaced. So we're moving on Phase two: the mechanical repair.
So uh, without any further Ado or introduction I will announce that this vehicle has 7 25 131 miles starting Z engine. Let's get into the shot. All right, let's get this thing indoors. I Need to uh I need to make haste.
We've had this truck here for uh I think like seven weeks it's been. It's been well over a month that's for sure. We had a well the holidays were here. the insurance company guys uh took a little while to get back to us and whatnot.
So uh, now we're trying to play catch up before the end of the year because we want to get this Jeep back to its home. We're rounding the corner of Death I Closed the door this time. No worries. Yep, right about here.
looks good to me. I Think that's a good spot. Set the rack on this bad boy parking powering down Okie Dokes Let's get these uh, lift arms set up and their their proper lifting positions here that looks good. and then that front one I need to extend that one a little bit.
like a lot of bit right about there. I Think okay moving on up. green subscribe button contact not right. come down.
so let's pull our arm back in. that's a little a little too far out. I'm gonna get it right here. Good moving back up.
All right. We're moving on up all the way up. We'll get to a comfortable working house which is right about here. Let's go ahead and get that left front wheel pulled off of there and we'll get this, uh, suspension disassembled.
Okay, first up here, we need to get the uh, plastic hubcap off. Now don't be deceived by all these bolts. Uh, most of them are fake. There's gonna be one or two actual Fasteners here.
Maybe three. Looks like there's three on this one. Well, you can tell because one of them is metal and the others appear to be plasticky. Hubcap Gravity almost saved it here.
please without scratching it. I Think the uh, the new wheel does not come with a hubcap. So I've gotta make sure we don't break this thing. Yeah, this thing's equipped with locking lug nuts.
so we're gonna need a uh, a key, see how that thing is splined in there, or need a key to remove those guys. Not a huge deal unless you don't have it. Sometimes the vehicle owners do not know where their keys are or that they even have a key, or on occasion the shop will forget to return the key. Therefore, there is no key.which is why I have a a master kit with all the popular available keys. That way we don't run into that kind of problem. Learned my lesson long ago. It's better to have your own key than uh, rely on customers to have their key because sometimes, like I said, they just don't know Some vehicles are Factory equipped with lugnate uh the words with locking lug nuts and they don't even know that they have those now I said some.
Not all. okay. let's pull this heavy thing off here. It's a beast and okie doke.
So I'm thinking the best place to start is gonna be from the beginning. What we're going to do is pull this brake assembly off. We're going to pull off the rotor. Then I can get the axle unbolted from the hub assembly.
We'll unbolt The Hub and then We'll disconnect the ball joints and then drop the spindle assembly down. I'm at knuckle. I I've got a habit of calling them spindles because they used to be spindles back in the day. This is the very expensive.
Factory replacement component. It's at aluminum. Yeah, that's probably why it bent so easily it was. Put you guys in there for a better view of what's going down.
We're just going to pull the two caliper brackets off. Loud noises. That's going to remove the bracket, the pads, and the caliper all at the same time. Check this guy and we'll hang it over here on this control arm with a uh Brake Hardware hanger.
Set it down right over there. That way our hose is not. uh, holding up all the way to that unit. Yeah, that's okay.
Actually, no it's not. that's gonna. that's gonna give you guys like a like an aneurysm, ruin the brake caliper hose. There we go.
Now we're in good shape. all right. Moving around this side a little bit, we can go ahead and pull these set screws out for the rotor and pop this guy off. and that one here looks like it's a T27 Torx bit unclick.
Uh, negative. Foreign. No good to go. Stuck.
That's okay, we have special tools for such things. Recommended Rotor Kidding. All right. we're gonna reuse that rotor that was not damaged.
Okay, next up, we need to pull the wheel speed sensor or ABS sensor out. Disconnect that guy. Um, you know what? Let's pull the backing plate off too. I Have to reuse that.
So this thing is just secured with a couple 10 millimeter fasteners. Let us unfasten those. This is going to get reused. There we go.
Wheel speed sensor removal complete. We'll stick that thing aside for now. and let's go ahead and get the tie rod and the axle nut removed. And then we can go around to the back side and get the bolts that hold this uh wheel bearing to the knuckle.unkick. Okay, looks like we're playing with a 36 millimeter. this axle nut right here. Foreign? Not yet.
Now, do Not hit these with hammers. It will damage the threads and then you have to replace the axle and that would be bad. but we can't hit it with air hammers. We're just trying to break the bond between the axle and the inside race of the bearing.
Foreign. Okay, let's get back behind this again and we'll pull the bolts out That secures the Uh the bearing to the knuckle. Let's scooch back around to the back side here and we will. Uh, we'll get those Fasteners with some Driveline sockets.
You'll notice these are 12 point, Fasteners and uh, not very common. but I've got some 12 point sockets here. These are Sun X's They're on a swivel. They're great for drive shafts and things of that nature.
That's why they were labeled as a Driveline kit. Nice, That's two. This came out beautifully. Swing this around I'll get that last one over here.
I Did not expect those to come out that easily. Okay, let's get back out of that wheel well again and see if we can't get this guy to come off of here. Oh yeah, it's gonna fall right off. There it comes.
Okay, let's get back behind this one more time and we're gonna go to work on these ball joints. We'll pop this one off in the lower right there and then this whole assembly should fall free and I should be able to remove it without pulling this axle shaft out because I don't think that has to has to come out. Yeah, let's lose these uh, cotter pins right here. Come here.
foreign, come out pin. There we go. I'm grabbing it with some side cuts and just kind of yanking it out using the leverage of the pliers to do my bidding. That's one and the bottom one down.
Oh, let's get this guy out. Yeah. I'm really anxious to get this car done because it has been sitting around in the lot for a very, very long time. We had it estimated on the first or second day that it was here, but because of the holidays and whatnot, the approval took for forever and then we didn't order parts until we got the approval because we just don't do such things.
So I I just feel like we're way behind schedule on this car. You know the old way would have been is once you've got the approval or once you have the estimate done, you go ahead and order your parts. but now we don't like to order parts until there's an approval because sometimes things change or the uh Insurance guys won't pay uh what they're supposed to or they. well there's just a lot of stuff that gets in the way and it's very high risk to order parts without the without the go-ahead so we just don't do that stuff anymore.
now. normally I wouldn't do this. uh, but since uh, this unit is getting replaced I don't feel uh, there's a problem with hitting this with a hammer, but what I want to do here is just shock this a little bit and get it to break the bond between the stud on the ball joint and the the knuckle right here. Nice.Still may have to use a puller. this should help break it free to do this because you can actually break these aluminum pieces. There we go. it's free of both.
uh, both ball joints. nice and it is free. I Do need to make sure these guys aren't bent binding and I don't think they are. This feel pretty good.
Yep. Not Bent and that one Not Bent This is good. Okay okay new unit, ready to go in. We'll just maneuver that yeah right into its home here.
Please maneuver there we go. See, You gotta just say please and it does what you want to put that there to secure everything. That's good. We've got our little collar shim thing here.
Oh I think that's an adjustable cam. It is adjustable. What these do is relocate the position of the steering knuckle in relation to the ball joint. and by doing such things, you can change its position and thus change the wheel alignment measurements.
The hole is offset a little bit uh witness marks I need to put that back the way it came and according to this component, the Gap was facing right here translates to hang on bear with me. my brain's uh, functioning. the Gap goes here like so which means we're pointing it at oh right. straight forward.
We're pointing it right at that little hole right there. That makes it easy. These are in place to adjust the wheel alignment angles so that's straight right there. That's where I found it.
Cool Now I can tighten down those bolts and that should be good. Uh yes. I am taking this over for our wheel alignment later. Okay, let's move back over out of the way here because now I need to uh to tighten this unit I think that's gonna press that.
uh hang on I need to turn this because as I turn it to tighten it's going to rotate there. We go there now. we can see what's going on a little bit more. Where's the holes at I need to line those up for the pins? Yeah, a little bit more pin is on the back side here, right? Yeah, right there.
right through there. so we're good. We're in good shape, excellent. And the bottom one I'll just impact that guy on.
No worries. All right. Bottom bolt nut s Thank you. Okay, let's go ahead and get this new hub assembly back in.
This is a Mopar OEM part. In fact, all these things are insurance companies. Uh, well. there's two kinds of insurance companies.
the ones that want you to buy junkyard parts and the ones that want you to buy OEM parts. I Guess that's uh, the difference between Budget Insurance you know the barely legal types and the actual insurance plans where they, uh, they provide good coverage I prefer the latter. Okay, it's not tight I just ran in it. okay, other bolt we'll run that one in.Let's turn this real quick. that one goes there and Where'd I put my third bowls. lost it already I didn't even go anywhere I found it. it was sitting hiding underneath at the shop towel.
All right, let's run these guys down next and then we'll swing that back around. tighten the third one. Uh, then we're going to be off to the skid plate. Click twice, click and Thrice click.
Very good. Now swing back around again. We'll get the skid plate and the wheel speed sensor in position did not come with a replacement sensor. I'm kind of used to that.
The GM ones always have a a new wheel speed sensor. Very odd to me. Oh well, this is what it is. How'd this work that goes in and this goes over? Yipper! That's exactly how that works.
Please thread that one there. and of course the one down below here. Can you guys see? Now you can one more right here for the wheel speed sensor. You go in.
Good to go. Okay, let's go ahead and get that axle secure next. Oh gravity. Excellent gravity.
Come here. I Tried to catch it and like slapped it across the building. Click torque that later. Oh, this is going very very good.
I'm I'm pleased with this. All right brake rotors coming in next. put that there, get this thing secured and then we can re-hang our caliper. Foreign.
Okay, come on. Caliper So unhang you, taking care to not introduce a twist in the hose that would be catastrophic, especially for the hose. potentially for everyone else. Twisted Hose do not function as designed.
Second: Bolt Okay, let's tighten this down and then we can move on to the next phase. Louder clicks. There we go. Okie Dokes Let's go ahead and move on to the bonus segment.
This uh, this tie rod here also took a hit and we're going to replace this assembly. So uh, we need to move over here to the right front area and get the rest of this removed. Now We priced these out and found out that the OEM tie rod actually cost more than an upgraded unit. So we ended up getting a Teraflex unit which is larger diameter.
hmm that didn't work and so we're gonna pull this guy off and uh, put Teraflex unit in it. Uh, it's configured slightly differently than this existing unit so we're gonna have to rearrange the steering stabilizer but there are there's Hardware with the new unit that will allow us to do that. There we go, pop that guy out and we'll let this thing kind of hang down. some very good.
let's go over to the uh, the right front knuckle and pull that tie rod off of there and then the whole unit will fall free. Wrong size. Is it coming out? Yeah. I need to swing myself back around to the right here and uh, take that, take the weight.
We don't want this thing to fall down, do we? That could hurt? Hmm. There it comes. Got it. Put you down there.
We're gonna reuse that steering stabilizer. Yeah, that one. Okay, so the way we're gonna have to relocate that steering stabilizer is, we're going to take this. uh, this track bar loose.right here. We're going to remove this bolt. Then we're going to install a stud that sticks out right here and that is where the stabilizer is going to attach instead of attaching right here. the tie rod.
It's going to attach here and then it's going to attach to the new tie rod over here. So whereas before it attached to the axle here and then the tire rod here, we're going to switch all that around and go from here to there. You'll see. Can I reach this thing? Sure can.
That feels like there's some pressure here. Let's uh, let's put a jack stand under this and secure this a little bit better. Something doesn't feel right, foreign into a danger zone. That's my new unit and the old unit will set up a jack stand right here.
Let's see here right about. Well, that's the only one I can use so we'll use that one wrong way. I Mean the ax is not going to fall out, but I just don't want it to uh to drop down or anything like that while I'm uh, trying to pull this thing apart better safe than sorry. a little bit more.
There we go. There we go. Okay, so this one comes out and then this longer one goes in and then it's got the uh, the stud on over here to accommodate the steering steel stabilizer. Words, is that gonna fit? Yeah, it is.
Get in there. it is my bill. Please go there. We go.
Now we're getting somewheres cool. I'll just use the big ratcheting wrench I should walk it in no problem. I Think it's going? Please go. Yep, it's through.
Sweet. Okay, let's put that uh, that nut back on it. There we go. I'm not gonna be able to hit this one with the tool.
it's just not. uh. well because of the extra length on the stud. I can't get that uh socket in there so this one's just going in the manual.
pick a gene way. Okay, let's bring this up to torque. Then what we've got to do is I'm going to remove the mount for the Uh for the old steering stabilizer Mount We have to remove that from the axle and then, uh, discard it because there's another Mount that goes on the new tie rod assembly. So what we'll do is get rid of this jack stand.
We don't need this anymore because that track bar is reinstalled. So let's pull this guy out of here and get it out of the way. Okay, now we can move. We can move over slightly.
We'll remove the existing Mount that bolts to the rear axle here. a couple 13 millimeter bolts foreign Okie dokes backing up again. Let's go ahead and get that uh replacement tie rod assembly installed. A little heavy.
All right. let's get that up into its home, toss the bolt on it nut and now it's safe and we can maneuver ourselves right on over here. There we go. get this one set up as well.
There we go Safe. Okay, let's put some torque on these guys. Gonna go? Yeah, they're pinch locks okay. Put a little bit of pressure upwards on it and the stud gained a little bit of friction right there on the knuckle that allowed the bolt to uh to tighten down the nut up.Click? All right. I'm just going to turn this straight and kind of eyeball it. We'll see how how parallel it this makes those. uh, these front wheels so that one right there kind of straight.
As Far as I can see this one here, that's turned in a lot. So let's let's just kind of adjust this thing. So I'm going to turn the center of the bar that's bright. we can turn the center section of the bar.
it's going to unthread and increase the length of the overall assembly that's adjusting total toe. The idea here is to get the two spindles Knuckles parallel to each other and I think we're close enough for now. Yeah, that looks good. The alignment guys can finish that off later.
Okay, so I'll run these jam nuts down and we'll tighten those with some pliers just to keep everything stable. Yeah, there we go. Too much. can you fix there? We go.
make it smaller. All right. and that one over here and do the same. Just snug it up.
That's all I Got to do There we go. Okay, now let's figure out the steering stabilizer business. Okay, so first of all, let's go ahead and pull the old stabilizer off of this tie rod assembly. Put that there, it looks like it's just this one.
Bolt on Click. Come out of there. Okay, it's stuck. Um negative.
Oh, here we go. Use the little hammer there. Now it's less stop. Still stuck.
What am I thinking please come out there. we go. Okay, here's our stabilizer. So the way this is gonna work.
That guy is going to slide onto that stud that we installed and then it is going to, uh, bolt to this tie rod like. So we're going to achieve that by installing this collar around the unit, the threads a stud into it and then that stud will bolt up to the stabilizer now I may have that backwards I'm going to fit that stabilizer however, it uh, well, wherever it gives us the best clearance. so I might flip it around I might not. I have uh, not decided yet.
but I will. Yeah. I think I'm gonna do this by turning the steering system all the way to the right. We don't want this to bind up due to steering throw, so we're going to move that all the way to the right.
then I'm going to compress this stabilizer. We'll do that on the ground. Thank you. Okay, that's as short as it gets.
Okay, now that this is shortened, put that on the new stud. This guy comes in right here, which does not have its stud on it yet and we'll pull it out just a little bit to allow for some extra motion. And I think that's the position that we're going to land in. Yeah, I Think this is about right.
So let me go ahead and tighten this guy down. Foreign. There we go. Still, not even now.
It is okay. Next up we can get the stud in position it's going to thread in and then we just tighten that manually. Where's my wrench 21? I think Yep. torque that slide this guy back in.Hmm or not there. Got it? And we got two more nuts here and that's going to secure the stabilizer to all the uh. suspension parts. and I think we're about good to go.
wrong socket. Let's try this again. That one's good. That one's good.
Sweet. all right. So track bar, tie rod bar is reinstalled, steering stabilizer has been relocated, it's got itself a bracket. I Think we're good to go here.
All I need to do is uh, get the wheels back on this and send this thing over to the Uh the alignment shop and get the suspension aligned and it's uh, it's out of here. I'm good to go. Oh wait wait wait wait wait wait wait wait I forgot something. That something.
That guy goes right in there. We're gonna need that. Oh, we don't need it, but it's an excellent safety device. so we're supposed to go get in there, bend that one that way.
we're doing it wrong. That one goes there. Okay, here we go. Kind of ugly though.
I think it's very ugly there. No, it's not. Okay. So far so good.
Let's let this thing down and toss the wheels back on. That's about it. Uh, like I said, this thing's got to go over to the Uh the tire store to get a wheel alignment done. and uh, that should be that.
So I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out right about now and I'll do that by thanking you for watching this Jeep video. Hope you enjoyed this. Jeep You did enjoy this. Jeep Let me know what you thought about it in the comments section down below if you did not enjoy this.
Jeep Also, let me know about that in the comments section down below. So again, as always, thank you guys for watching and most importantly, do not forget I have ah, Screwdriver Gravity to have yourselves a great day. See you guys later! End of Jeep.
92 thoughts on “Collision damage! 2018 jeep wrangler”
Did you ever catch the boot peeled up off its base on the new passenger side tie rod?
You caught the cotters, so I was just curious.
@rainmanray Chipmunk mode engaged. Love the speed up through the tedious portions.
You can definitely tell that’s not a New York car lol
I usually use an impact drive tool with the torx bit to remove the retainer (and also put a tiny bit of antiseize on it on reasembly)
I'm from the southwest. 25 year old cars here have as much rust on them as this jeep. I'm amazed how much rust is on the other cars you work on. But according to the other comments, that is a thing.
its such a nice change not working on something 30 yrs old covered in rust.
I never saw you torque the axle nut
Use a torque wrench, instead of impacting everything!
did you do the bottom cotter pin
It seems that a lot of your customers make do with cracked windscreens.
Did you put the ankering bolts on the new steering stabilizer bracket?
Bump stop bolt to limit turn to left?
perhaps the train horn should replace the long lost doodley-doos that we all miss
I believe that you forgot a turn stop bolt on the new spindle. It is there to prevent the spindle from turning too far.
straight forward repair, no suprises along the way, sounds like a good day in the office. great video as always
Why do they call the skid plate a Skid plate?
Not a JK it's a JL.
You put the steering stabizer on wrong.
I couldn't read FOX 😄
Why did you remove the bearing if you knew you where replacing the knuckle?
From everything is a rust bucket Minnesota
As a suggestion, do you know when you was working at the garage and the phone was ringing and you did do you Lulu or something like that. What about now when a train goes past Hooton its horn, you do the sound of the horn of the train. LOL
Love the "X-Files" sightings of the daughter-unit! Lol!
It is better to err on the side of caution
Put that on a t-shirt…."Twisted hose do not function as designed." Was dying laughing
Is there a reason why you don't use lock nut on brake items. I was always told to because its a high vibration area
I enjoyed that Jeep. I like the color.
Love that blue color.
Aluminum steering knuckle? ROFL
Dude the xfiles theme!
beautiful jeep, beautiful work!
idk if anyone else caught the existing mount that bolts to the rear axle? i think u meant front axle lol
See youve joined the Cintas club. those new pants lay flat upright against the wall when new.
I was freaking out about the red hanger thingy, thank you for fixing it, much appreciated. I am amazed at the plethora of tools you have, there is something for every need.
Eric O probably cursing you cause how easy that came out…
Reeee!!! Did you replace the castle nut and cotter pin at the bottom of the knuckle with a Nyloc nut just to troll us, or was that a mistake?
Jeep JL, its the new series that started mid 2018. JK went from 2007 to early 2018 and had the big ugly plastic fenders and bumpers
The train whistle is the new doodly doo!
That Ocean metallic blue is a really nice.
Didn't see you torque that hub nut. That can be a major problem.
The train is the new "doodley-doo!"
Great stuff! Thanks Ray!
That would be a JL Jeep 😉
Why would you design a shop with a hairpin corner like that? So stupid. 🤦🏻♂️
well you make it look easy thanks for making it look so interesting as well i'v got my grandson watching hoping he will learn something😁cheers
????? Hum? I've seen 2 videos of your friend's & you tear down a wall. But lo & behold there it is. Hum.? This video is a day old the others are 3-4 days ago. I'm hearing the twilight zone tune here.
That wheel speed sensor cable looks like it rubs on the dust shield ???
I hate rotor setscrews my 2011 Silverado has them well one side is on now because the other side want to strip out on me so I had to take a Lennox demo screwdriver, and beat it with a ball pain to make an indention in it just so I could tap it around back out of it and then I just never put a new one back in
Great job homie!
Didn’t see the steering stop transferred over