After MONTHS of obstacles this EJ25 Subaru Engine is finally ready to go back in the 1999 Legacy Outback AWD. It came in with a coolant leak and oil leak in part 1, we found a leaking water pump. During service we found a seized water pump bolt which broke off during removal. After spending hours attempting a failed extraction in part 2, I gave up and ordered a salvage engine to replace it with. The engine was lost in Virginia during the Yellow Freight trucking company shut down, never to be seen again. Unable to locate a suitable replacement, attempts were restarted to extract the damaged bolt AND stud extractors that broke off in the bolt. In part 3, with the engine on the bench, we were finally able to remove the bolt, but the engine was damaged at the bolt hole and the threads were lost during extraction. During part 4 the block was drilled out and a thread insert called a time-sert was installed. Victory was short lived because immediately after, during the timing belt assembly, the belt tensioner bolt stripped out and pulled the threads. Another time-sert was installed and the engine is finally ready to be installed.
Part 1 This is how it started! Customer States: Everything Leaking! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5 AWD
Part 2 Drove IN Pushed Out! Damaged during Repair! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 @I_Do_Cars
Part 3 Extracting the broken bolt! Welding Explosion! Intense Bolt Extraction! Will it FAIL? Subaru Outback 2.2 2.5
Part 4 Damaged Block Threads! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 Hurricane Idalia
This video is Part 5 Engine Damage AGAIN! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 2.5 EJ25
SHORT Welding Explosion! Intense Bolt Extraction! Will it FAIL? Subaru Outback 2.2 2.5
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

Hello everybody, good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here I know I'm super glad to be here. We're all super glad to be here because the hurricane has passed. Uh, we are resuming business operations. We're finishing up a few things with a couple of the Mustangs from last week.

uh, still waiting on parts I've got a couple people that have come in for their appointments today, but I need to clear the shop out before I can get to them and send some sort of at a standstill with some battery chargers and some brake fluid and some parts holds. We are going to go back to the Rubisu engine real quick and put some of the timing components together and I'll probably pop that rear main seal in now. I issue on this Uh particular setup here and that is I actually do not remember where all the components are supposed to go? I've got a pretty good rough idea. For example, we've got a hardened steel pin right here in the front of the uh, the engine block here.

So I know that that thing rests on the grenade pin for the tensioner. So I'm fairly certain that the tensioner is going to go right there. Now there's two kinds of tensioners here. There's an integrated tensioner, and then there's a tensioner that has its own uh, well, it's like a pulley lever and then the uh.

the secondary version has the grenade or the plunger separate from the tensioning body itself. So this is version one, but there are two versions to this particular setup. and I Know that because I managed to order the wrong one at some point and I had to send it back. That guy is gonna go right there.

Pensioner pickage. There we go. Um, that didn't feel very good to me I mean it's that's tight. but oh no, you gotta be kidding me.

And how about that? We got more ruined threads on the Subaru engine. Come on car guys. I We just had a major victory. Now there's a major failure way that did not.

Yeah, dude. look at that. another one. There's a hole.

There's another one. Look at that destroyed. hold the threads right out of the thing. look unbelievable.

this. uh, this engine does not want to comply with existence like seriously. I Know that these threads are correct. Look at here.

There's our old tensioner. There's our new tensioner and we have the correct threads. See that? Come on all right. So now I need to time cert that hole for the timing belt tensioner.

So I've got to do the same thing that I just did to this water pump bolt right here on this tensioner bolt. This is. It's not what I expected to do. Okay, that's uh.

that's gonna be a change of plans here. Um, well. I've got to order a Time sort kit now. So how's the rest of these threads? Are these gonna be okay? That one's good.

That one looks good. Those ones. They better look good. Those are in the front of the water pump case here so those should be fine.

All right. Well, I guess I can throw on some of these other pulleys real quick. but I've got a I've gotta order a Time syrup for that. So what we're gonna do is I'm gonna put on as many parts as possible here.
and then uh, we'll spin this engine around and knock the rear crankshaft seal out I Guess kind of. go from there. Sure would like to finish this car one day. I did put a new thermostat in it though.

See that? All right? Well, we have one Polly on. Let's get the other two out of the kit installed. Got a smooth face pulley here. There's another smooth face that's gonna go here.

two tighten these guys down leakage. I Always check them to make sure that they spin. That's why you broke the threads. You're impacting it with a quarter inch drivers.

Yeah, so far so good. Everybody's Free and Clear and turning and all that good stuff. Hooray! Even the cams alrighty. So since we have to perform more more since we have to perform more surgery on this engine block to fix those threads next, I've got to order another one of those time start kits or a heavy coil kit and so that puts me dead in the water on this side of the engine.

So let's uh, let's spin this unit around here and get to the back side. We will pull off any rear covers. we can pull off the uh, the flex plate and then uh, we'll pop that rear seal in and out so we'll set this guy up on the oil pan. Yeah, look at that here.

There's all kinds of oil back there. Pretty sure that that seal is leaking. so let's pull this apart next and then we'll change that seal out. Check the covers as well.

You know I may not show it, but I'm remarkably disappointed that that bolt stripped out. so not what I wanted to do today. Larger impacts required. So I was, uh, reading in the comments on the last video on this car and folks were going.

Why oh why is it taking you forever to fix this guy's Subaru And this is why. this is exactly why you got to do one thing and it turned into a nightmare. This is like part five on this particular car. It came in for oil leaks.

believe that it was oil in a coolant leak. The coolant was that water pump. probably because that bowl was junk. There's a plate there.

and right when I thought I was making some Headway the uh, I strip out another bolt. So here's what we've got going on here. Check this out, All right. So it looks like this little plate right here is leaking some oil.

See all that right there. There's oil all over the place around that plate. There is a little bit of oil on this rear crank seal. This thing may not be leaking, but we're going to change it anyway.

and I believe that this plate right here is also a known leaker. So we're going to pull this plate off and just reseal that as well. I Imagine that all these seals are uh RTV sealant and looks like you probably need to do an oil pan while we're here. Okay, all right, so let's handle what I would expect to be the easiest part first.
and that's going to be this little plate right here. So I usually like to do the hardest part first, but since this, uh, since this car is trying to be the the death of me I would uh I'll do the easy stuff first. So here's what we're doing now: I've got a screwdriver hanging out on that bolt and I've stuck a wrench on it just to give me some Leverage see if it's gonna crack or loose or not. Yepper there's one loose and numeral those unclick.

Come on. No it. Oh, it started to strip the screw. Not okay.

no worries. I'll hit it with an impact driver that guy on there and hit with a hammer. as it hits. it's going to collapse this cylinder body and it's going to cam and engage this bit right here and then make that bit turn or not.

Come on. Oh that one is super tight. so I hit it. It didn't turn there we go.

That one turned good. So now we did not damage our screws. So let's pull these guys out and pop this little plate off of here. And yep, that's our seal.

Look at that flattened out o-ring It's a horrible gasket. No longer effective. Alrighty, let's pull this little plate guy off right here and see what kind of seal that takes. If it's our TV then we're good.

And if it's not our TV then I must order whatever the seal is supposed to be. Same thing with that O-ring over there right? It's not a generic o-ring and the only one that seems to want to fit is going to be an AC o-ring and I don't think I should use a gray ACO ring from the back of a Subaru block. so I won't. Um, don't you strip out too? Come on.

stripping out I just saw it turned I'm not I'm not okay with this car. like seriously, it's not okay. Who does this? I mean I Know that these are like toy engines and everything, but do we really have to put like hot metal fasteners in it? look I'm about to strip. Come on man.

Getting tired of this thing and yet we don't even have Torx Fasteners in here. They've got these stupid hex Fasteners that round off. that one's loose. Yeah, that one up here, that's I've already stripped that one on the mood.

This is why this car has taken months. Yeah, that one's not even gonna come out. That one's stripped. That's great.

Hooray! Give it back. Oh look, that's full of sealant. That's it. There's our TV loaded in the back of that.

It's probably not even leaking while we were doing all this for no reason. Okay, so we're gonna convert this into a Torx bit and maybe if I use the Torx it will not. uh, it'll grip into it and not slip. So I'm just going to hammer this guy in playing nice nice.

No, become loose Now now it's no longer a hex bit. it's a Torx it's been permanently altered I forgot one at the bottom. Give me back my bit, please. There you go.

our little panel. What do you got going on back here. We've got some RTV sealant. Yeah, that's about it.

Okay, it's rear crankshaft seal out of here. I'm gonna try to get after it with a pocket screwdriver. first. try to poke a hole in it.
just pry it out. It's not enough screwdriver noob. Maybe if I can get behind it. All right.

We dented it. The idea here is to not damage the crank uh or the engine block. Of course, at the rate this thing is going, I'll probably strip this thing out somehow too and ruin this. Yeah, we're well on our on our way here.

Larger driver come out come out, crankshaft seal. Here she comes. I'm minding where the tip is. So I don't gouge it into the bore of the block.

here. there's our crank seal. No damage to either surface. This is good.

Gonna give that a good wipe, make sure there's nothing in there very good and we have a replacement seal. It's right in front of me somewhere. What do I do with it? Alrighty, let's get this thing lined up and in position and we'll send it home with a couple love taps. Get in there.

please get in there. Oh lost it. Look at that spring came out epic failure. Do-over here.

let's try it again without. uh, not messing up. What do you guys say? Like to do something on this car without screwing it up there? Yeah, get on there stupid thing. Oh look, I'm about to ruin it.

Seal is, uh, trying to flip the wrong way? See that? let's push that right back in there. where she goes. That's better. I didn't get an install tool with this.

so I do it the hard way. All right. that's looking pretty good everywhere. Let me finish sending it home a little bit farther, even it out, and make it flush with the engine block surface.

and then we're good here. Use the old seal to help bend it right on in. Very good. They're pretty a little bit more over here.

I Think we're in good shape, a little too far. All right. So I did send this one in a little deeper than the one that I pulled out. However, that's kind of fine with me because when these seals are riding on the crankshaft, they tend to wear a little bit on the crank and sometimes if you put them back in the exact same spot that Groove that's left in the crank can allow some oil to seat Hot Seat past.

So I did drive this in up probably about 3 16 of an inch. maybe a quarter inch. a little too far, but it will still seal regardless because there's nothing in there except for a cavity for the filter or for the, uh, the gasket and then the crankshaft. so that's still gonna be fine right where it's at I'm cool with that.

Okay, so before I screw something else up, let's get the back of this block clean and uh, we'll prep the panel and then get that panel resealed. Loud noises. There we go. That's good.

I'm gonna wash it off. Get rid of all the Dust contaminating the oil I Know we're going to replace it later. Get all that nasty out of there. Get that piece of sealant out of there.

Goodbye goodbye contamination. Very good. Alrighty, so our little plate here that's going to start for the same fate. a business wheel action Loud.
What is this? Oh super shiny. All right. Good to go. Alrighty so now we can add our own.

Ultra Black Room temperature Vulcanizing sealant to the back of this panel. Run that around that's not looking good. Hmm. roll it from the end here.

Give us more con control of our stream so to speak. There thicker than I wanted here. No matter. I'll work with it.

We go roll it. The tube's almost empty, but it's not rolled. What's going on here? It was emptied improperly there. Let's fix this over here so that's not missing and or missing.

Still sealant words. So it's not missing a sealant and it has voids in it. There are voids the oil will leak past. That's not okay in all my years.

I've never seen such a sloppy sealant job. This is horrible. Guaranteed leaker. Yeah, we'll be all right.

I bet it's going to leak less than it did. So there a little bit over here, a little bit more back over there. Let's make that look pretty thin it out some. This is how you get sealant inside of your thread bolts.

By the way, the bolts will pass through and they'll collect some. They'll take it into the threads. It's not a huge deal, but it can be if you way overdo it. All right.

That thing's good. Let's get that unit bolted back onto the block. It'll have ample time to dry because I still have to order the time start kit for the other side. Hooray! So let's see.

how did this guy go in this orientation here? Sure here, we'll go ahead and stick it on in the top. thread that in some good. Next number three, Uh, two more. What do I do with them losing my bolts? Uh, last one.

Nice. All right. that's the stripped one right there. I'll have to use the torques on it.

was out of Torx 27 that I grabbed? Yeah. Click. Beautiful. Let's put some torque on these remaining Fasteners here and this plate is done.

That one's good. That one's good. They're all good. Everything's good.

even that broken Okie Dokes. Oh man. Knock you guys right over. Okay, uh.

next order of business is going to be this o-ring on the back of the plate here. I have a replacement. Yes, it's a fell Pro and I know folks do not like Velcro stuff on Ruby shoes. However, it's the only one that's available so that's the one I'm going to use.

Besides, it's just a rubber o-ring Wow, that's not even rubber anymore that's turned into plastic. Look how hardened that is. it's just breaking away I wonder it was a leaker? Okay, let's wipe that out a little bit. There's some debris in there here at all that pop our o-ring in the hole like so.

and then we can get this guy back on the rear of the block. There we go. I Think she went just like so it wants to. oh gravity, it wants to pop out of there.
So I'm making sure that once it touches the block and I lose sight of it. that's that. So what we need to do is be prepared. that's in bottom.

screw coming in, getting that guy down. next one. there we go and those were actually very tight. We'll give them a hit with the uh, the impact driver just to make sure they stay tight.

Here we go. Awesome! Okay, back to the engine block. Gravity The back of the engine block has been resealed. Fantastic! So now we're in a real good position to go ahead and get our flywheel back in place along with its little spacer.

I Don't know if, uh, all of these bolt holes are evenly spaced or not. So we're gonna thread all of these fasteners before tightening anything down. Get in there, don't you strip out. That's all we need is a stripped out crankshaft.

Probably shouldn't have said that because uh, this. Subaru does things like that to me. It's a curse from the car gods. Talk to you later, buy oil, close the rest of this unit off and I'm going to end up on another.

Park hold until I Get the time start kit to fix the front of this thing. Again, it's actually not a parts hole. that's a cool old because I need a tool to fix the threads? There we go. Okay, all right.

Well, we got kind of somewhere on this engine. at least the back of it's all sealed up. Um, I'm not gonna do the oil pan just yet. we uh well, because it's sitting on the oil pan.

So what I'll need to do in order to do to replace the seal down there is get this thing on engine, hoist, unbolt it, pry it off, and then change it out. I actually might just do that oil pan in chassis. It should be space. uh, while it's in the car to speak up.

in and out. or I can get Troy to do it I haven't decided yet. Either way at this point and today I'm at another standstill. So that's probably going to be about it for this video.

like I mentioned earlier I've got to order another one of those thread repair kits to drill out that, uh, that big hole for the tensioner bolts and then once that's on, I can get the timing set up, get the front covers on, then we'll drop this thing back down inside of our Ruby suit. So uh, having said all that, I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out right now. I Will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you guys for watching this video. Certainly hope you enjoyed this video if you did and you have not yet seen and would like to go back to see all of the previous iterations on this Subaru project.

please check this video's description down below and I will have an itemized list of all the links starting from part one down to uh I Think we're on part five now so there's gonna be one through four in that list. I'll even throw a couple really good shorts in there to go with it or you can wait until this video is in screen. Or check these links above right about here somewhere and those will take you back to the part one of this particular Subaru Series So again and as always, thank you guys for watching and most importantly ever sells a fantastic day! See you guys later in a video in the Subaru in a 2.5 liter dope end of oil leaker and end of engine block threads in a transmission.

95 thoughts on “Engine damage again! subaru legacy outback 2.2 2.5 ej25”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joel Fastow says:

    Hey Ray, do you have the final video showing this nightmare finally running again in the car?

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dale Cowan says:

    Supposed to pack the back of the seal with grease a spring don’t come out

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Metalmachine467 says:

    Things happen in three 😅
    Watch an oilpan bolt snap lol

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Haney says:

    This is why Subaru, is a shitty car. I only drive a toyota, I do not have problems like that

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Heretic Dezign says:

    Just put the tip in…

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kiara Garth says:

    Just replace the bracket that holes the belt tensioner

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bas Bass says:

    Really nice compact engine! If the build quality was just a little bit higher it would be perfect for any small car. "who does this?" The suit department saving $20 building cost on cheaper screws for the entire car. Giving us great vids many years later 🤣

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen Hookings says:

    I wager even Terminator 2 wouldn't willingly contort itself into a Subaru engine shape!

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen Hookings says:

    So proof Ray gained new super powers after surviving hurricane – the power to change hex into torx.

    1 – what a crappy quality bolt
    2 – this is a brilliant idea I can rip off doe a bass guitar hex truss rod that rounded off.

    Thanks Ray.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars martin moffitt says:


  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Thor Hammer says:

    RTV – do you let it dry some before you assemble the parts or put it together right away?

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steven Allen says:

    Get a Time-Sert T-shirt. They're only $15 bucks. Yeah!

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jeffery berry says:

    This car DOES NOT like you brother.

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dave Kube says:

    You need a black garage cat Ray… Call it "void"…

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tom walma says:

    the seal will block oil passage if inserted too deep

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Barry Scarlett says:

    Subaru ej engine is knowen for stripping out that bolt .and idler pulley bolts too .
    Blue lock tight and always just use a spanner .
    Lots of trapped heat .causes weak alloy

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Thomas Devine says:

    Time to start using a torque wrench

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Guy Cripplecock says:

    That's what youtube is for so you can find where to put things where you forgot lol

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 411 NOW says:

    I hate those cars. Everyone I have ever owned have blown head gaskets….Thanks for video Ray. Tell me though……..Whats going on? I said hey, whats going on

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jdm5lughatch says:

    Try installing the impact socket/bit on an impact gun. You will never use that impact screwdriver again…

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars daddyphatsax304 says:

    I know the electric ratchet is fun and saves time (usually)….but i would suggest hand tools only on aluminum. Subaru aluminum anyways. lol

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars w c says:

    ive done a couple dozen t belt jobs on subaru EJ engines and have only had thread stripping issues on higher mileage ones where the timing gear has been changed by an idiot that overtorqued the bolts. the range if i recall correctly is 24-28ftlbs for most of the pulley bolts. i always use the lower end of the torque range and use a tiny bit of low strength thread lock on the bolts. never had one come back or fail.

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars FPVForLife says:

    Ray, get yourself a set of JIS screwdrivers. They make a hell of a difference. They really "bite" into the screws.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars B ROBB says:

    All engines, & bolts that are made by , Professional Engineers are GREAT when new, but designed to be difficult later. Like, can I, may I, ask, the last plate you put on, brittle O ring, which is, designed too leak,, why is it even there ? Mm$$

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrTex1954 says:

    I didn't get a notification for this video… Hmmmm…..

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gilbert Elliott says:

    A classic example of why aluminum engine blocks suck…

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wakeup and Sniff the Coffee says:

    Hard to believe this job makes any economic sense by now. I can imagine just how much money is going out or being lost.

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Greg Haig says:

    Ray stop volunteering to open more of that engine this may leak or maybe not put it back in the car and send it

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BlockHead365 says:

    Seams like every pla e that has a hurricane is a crap hole. Must be nature's way of flushing a toilet.

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alfred Howell says:

    Ghost in the machine.

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Keith Vallance says:

    Glad your ok after the hurricane Ray. These engines have rubbish castings, and they have a massive following here in 🇬🇧

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars stanley84pl says:

    I like your job but this one Ulala not so good

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Doc DuMont says:

    Pour water on those things and you get instant crap. Waste of time, money and talent.

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gabtastic says:

    We all have those days. Just last night after a 12 hour shift I wanted a couple burgers. So after the grease fire erupted in my grill I went back inside and decided to try again tom. Sometimes things just suck, The next day will be better.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jason Alexander says:

    What kind of seal is that? The spring shouldn't come out easily like that. Probably should use an oem seal and better care.

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jason Alexander says:

    Like you said, your using a power tool. That's why the threads failed. They say to never use power tools on critical components because you risk cross threading them.

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars kissfan003 says:

    Whelp, I know what I won't be buying in the future. OUI! Sorry Ray, that stinks!

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars fred thompson says:

    every subaru that worked on had a striped thread incident. mainly exhaust manifolds on the older ones. could not get heli coi;ls to work.

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars chris melms says:

    Great content as always!!! I laughed when Ray said he had to do the oil pan on that Subaru because I'm pretty sure that was one of the first things he did on that car before the water pump debacle happened.

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Super Dave’s Subi And More says:

    I can tell you're not super familiar with s Subaru engines, that plate is the upgraded plate for the plastic ones that warp and leak over time. That wasn't leaking and just run a wood screw into that seal and it will push back out.

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars bluescoobywagon says:

    I learned quickly to always impact driver off all the bolts on both those rear covers. FYI, the discolored hex bolt goes where the arrow points.