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Hello everybody, Good day to you! Welcome back! This is a Jeep Wrangler of some sort I forgot the year I used to know uh, looks like it's a 1995 model assuming it's got the four liter in it. Uh customer States It's got an interesting complaint. Customer states that after uh, running for a short period of time, that, uh, the exhaust manifold turns red hot and then the vehicle stalls and has a hard time restarting. It suffers from lack of power and uh, there's a few other items too. We're going to inspect a lot of stuff on this. Starting the engine? yeah, sounds rough. 156 000 and zero zero. Six miles on the odometer. Let's get it into the shop before it dies. Let's go go. It's a Jeep thing. Come on Jeep let's get in there. Hmm. smells kind of stinky. Only what the dealio is. uh, how do I get out? I don't know Jeeping yeah I hear some popping and backfiring and one checker. Okay, well, it's got exhaust flow. The thought was it had a clogged inverter, but uh, that does not appear to be the case of the cake. Okay, let us pumping the hood. entering Jeep Service mode Now hello yeah, that's four liters straight six. Get my thermal meter out I Want to see what kind of temperatures we get at that manifold? Ah, here it is. Digital thermal imager initiate carrying on. Oh, let's see what we got down here. Well, it's definitely hot. 842 degrees. That was fast. Why are we running so hot so fast? Look at that 842. All right, it's on the Fahrenheit scale not the metric scale. Well, it seems to be running smooth. I Do hear an exhaust leak over here I Don't know about Red Hot. We're gonna let it ride for a little while and we'll see. uh, what do we got now? Yeah, 842 temperatures remaining consistent. Okay, all right, let's just mess with it a little bit. Make sure our injectors are all doing their thing. a little release Tabs are broken off. it's supposed to be a little uh, metal tab in there. You know that one works I'm listening for a change in engine tone when I disconnect one of these injectors I hope these aren't glued on. Okay, this thing's changed a little bit with that one disconnected I thought if I just kind of Wiggle them back and forth. they come off sort of. all right that one's running again I hear a change in RPM when I disconnect the ejector. Now running looking for is to make sure one of these injectors is n't just dumping fuel. it is. shouldn't change. Try this one. Okay, that one's good. Come on. last one, Number Six, Get out of there. That's a there's a problem right there. Ground strap is hanging loose, always check your powers and grounds. and number six is good too. Okay, yeah I need to reconnect this Crown somewhere that's that's critical. we need that. So I'm kind of taking a look around at everything. Uh, I've been checking out a lot of these vacuum lines. The one right here to the uh, the fuel pressure regulator. That one seems to be okay. The one going to the map is okay. I checked for a leak. A vacuum leak at the brake booster. Uh I can't really say I care for that broken plug right there. but it appears that this map sensor is. Yeah, that thing's working okay. um. I'm not seeing the fans coming on yet and it's been running for a while. I'm starting to feel some heat. Let's go check our temp gauge because we might be. Yeah, Yeah, yeah, yeah, we're running a little hot. Let's go ahead and shut this down. Or oh, hang on, stick a fan in front of it. That should help. Yeah, we'll just move this guy over. We need to get some airflow over the radiator. Fun fan there. Block it down. Ooh Hot Hot fan? Hot fan? Yeah. I'm wondering if this thing starts running poorly when it overheats some. uh, some airflow over a cooling package. There's a cool ant. This thing pulls off some. uh I See some coolant dripping out of it already? That's not okay. What do we got here? It's like the lower hose. Maybe Okay, let's go check our gauge and see if it cooled off. Any that might be. Uh, definitely something worth looking into. Warm again. Come on fan, come on, let's cool it off. Yeah, this electric fan still is not running. I wonder if I can manually power that? See, we're running over here over to here should run from Theory Looks good on all right. Okay, the gauge came down a little bit. I think we're falling. Let me get one more fan in there to get this thing back down to Temp and I choose my Super Fan Max Lasko fan from Costco because everything's from Costco There we go now. I've got some flow going over that thing. something right? So three okay temp is starting to fall a little bit. it's still overheated but we are coming down. That's good. Okay, I've got the meter here. it leads on the ground side. We'll do a meter check voltage. let's check power and ground. going over here to this relay which runs this fan. So there's our power supply to the relay. that's good. Let's check the few sides of it. Hour of power. Okay so I got power going to the fuse through the fuse and the relay is powered and it looks like that fan is using a blue wire and a black wire for its ground. So let's check our blue real quick. Blue wires got voltage and our black wire which is either Yeah, it's got to be this one right here. so we'll check our black wire for ground. move that over. Okay, so that fan is grounded and it is powered, but the fan itself, the motor itself is not running so that fan right there is junk so we're gonna need to put a fan in it or that fan will need to be replaced. That's not exactly our our problem that it was here for, but it is a problem and it's kind of a big problem so that's to be noted. I Would also think we should use a fan if it is a a polar fan or a pusher fan instead of a puller fan. as we can see right here at that water pump, we don't have a lot of space to work with. do we like zero clearance? The thing moves around. I Bet it'll hit that water pump fully so we are going to want to change that fan position probably to one on this side. There seems to be a lot of space over here to fit one, but that's going to have to be redone. No vacuum on this. I Don't know why I just said that. I Think that's an emissions line? Let's go check temp and we're still falling All right. I'm gonna go ahead and shut this down and let it cool off all the way once it's cool again. I Want to go out, check the coolant level, then I'll go out for a test drive powering down. Phew Yeah there's a there's a lot to unpack with this particular Jeep but I think we can handle it. It looks like all the sensors on board have been replaced. You've got intake air temp. Uh, that looks like a throttle position. Idle air control motor sensor has the replacement. It appears to be working I Didn't notice until later, but the PCM has also been replaced and that map sensor was new. That's better. Shut this down. We'll just leave a little one running for now there. now. don't have to yell. Oh I Don't know where this goes. What is this? What are you for? This goes somewhere. Go somewhere in this range. Figure that out later. Okay, now this Jeep is a 95 model so that's pre-obd2 so we don't have the luxury of using the scan tool. So everything we do here today is going to be done. uh, the analog way so to speak now. I Understand there's no check engine light on this thing, but that does not mean that there are no trouble Court trouble codes that are stored so what we need to do is try to manually retrieve those so we're gonna key it on. We go off on off on and it should start to flash codes at us. One one two. Let's go: One two three one two three Four Five Thirty Five One Two three one two three three. Boring. Right? Four Five One two three four Five two two 25 I Yeah, that last one was 55. 55 is the end of code list. I'll run through and double check my math but it looks like I got a code 12 which is common. that's battery disconnected a 35 33, 45 and a 20 22. I think I'll double check them again but that's what it looks like so far crying down. Ding Okay I just double checked my codes I got a code 12. we've got a 35 check 33 check. The one that I thought was a 45 was actually a 54. 22 was right. The one that I thought was 25 was actually 27. pardon my handwriting 35 and then the last one was a 55 which is the end of the code list. okay using using the Google machines. uh code diagram I got it on all data but I'm just I Googled it on fixed Jeeps.com not sponsored uh code 35 for Xj's only cooling fan relay circuit open. Well, if this is an XJ then yeah I can I can see that 33 AC clutch relay open that's not concerning to us text message Let's see what was our next 154. What is 54? Tell us 54 is not on this list. So I need to recheck that. Okay, 22 22, 22 22 coolant temp sensor above acceptable voltage. Um yeah, I can get behind that. How about a 27? One of the injector drivers is not responding. That may be our drivability problem that they complained about. Injector output driver does not respond properly to control signal. Maybe it's got high resistance? Well, uh, we'll own those later. And 35 Code 35. We already looked at that I don't know why it showed up again. Okay, let me double check the presence of that 54 code. hey, because I don't have that as my list on my list. Here it goes: 51, 52, 53 55 So we're skipping 54. I'll check that one more time and I'll get back to you guys. So one one, two three, I'm not gonna bore you with counting this again. Stay right here. Actually, yeah, don't go anywhere odd. That is a 54. it did come up as a 54. which is weird because I don't have a 54 on this list right here. What is going on? Well, the scary part is is 53 is PCM internal problem 55 is PCM has finished telling you the codes which I thought I had 55 but it's 54. hmm I know the last one I got was 55.
I'll have to look this up on all data just to make sure. Okay, all right. I Uh, I did check it two more times and that is a code 54. the 22 is legit. 27 is legit and followed up by a 55. so that's the end of the list. so I need to figure out what that 54 is. The other two other three four five those seem to be legitimate. Okay, let's restart this thing see how it runs Well, we're not overheated, see if it restarts again without effort. I Wonder if this thing has an injector issue? Maybe it's got one sticking open? Come on baby. Nothing. Okay, let's see if we have fuel at the rail since it failed to start. run, run, run, run, run, ruining a pen. No, that was not much. fuel. Cycle it again, see if it starts. I Wonder if we have a fuel pump issue now? I Understand this thing has had a new fuel pump installed. Nothing. Do we have a fueling issue? It's because it's got a new pump. Doesn't mean it's running. Let's see what we got here. Yeah, there's some fuel. Not much pressure though. Okay, yeah, that wasn't uh, that wasn't anywhere near spec. I Imagine this thing needs at least like 40. 45 pounds, barely runs, and now it's good. Let's see if we got fuel pressure now. Okay, let's go check fuel pressure spec next. powering down. it may have a crappy, uh ground wire or something going to the pump. who knows? time to consult the all that. Uh, hello office. Ooh air conditioner is cold in here. Okay, we're pulled up. What? I got a 95 Jeep Wrangler V6 242 4 liter Vin s Kion engine running 31 Pounds Uh. Vacuum regulator disconnected 39.41 All right guys, it's the next day and we're uh, we're still on this Jeep over here I've gone ahead and connected a fuel pressure tester, the inspection port on the fuel rail and uh, I'm gonna see what kind of fuel pressure we have. There's two specs on it, there's a running spec and then there's a spec with the fuel pressure regulator being removed I think running is 31 32 pounds and with the regulator off I think we're looking for 45 pounds. so let's see if this thing is going to start this morning and uh, we'll take that fuel pressure measurement and then go from there. so we're key on uh, engine kind of running Commando Wake up, you can do it. Hmm, no. Do you start you? There we go. It's alive. Let's see what we got here. Let's start regulator. so we're 35 pounds at idle. Um, but we're looking for a spike in the pressure up to 45 or so with the regulator disconnected and we've got no change. No change in the fuel pressure right here. All right, let's shut this down before it gets hot again and we'll go back and check our service data and verify that we are supposed to see a pressure change with that regulator disconnected. Okay, we've got it pulled up here I didn't print it I don't think I've got my printer hooked up to this laptop yet It says fuel pressure should be approximately 55 to 69. PSI It's 8 to 10 pounds higher with the vacuum line removed from the regulator which we just did that and we did not get a jump in pressure. It said where else did it say that I already read this Um, check for link kinks in the in the line which we don't have. Oh, here we go if vacuum line checks out. Okay and fuel pressure does not rise appropriately eight to ten pounds higher. After disconnecting the vacuum line, replace the fuel pressure regulator. So we do have a confirmed regulator issue. I did check the line. Uh, the line is not leaking. However, there is no pressure change when disconnected. So according to the all data and all of its Collective Wisdom, we do have a regulator failure. Now that is a problem. that may not be the problem. However, I can't just ignore that and move on like that's not the issue. So I'm going to go ahead and pick up a regulator. We'll go from there I Don't recall if I mentioned it earlier, but this Jeep does have a brand new pump and a brand new Uh filter installed. I I Went down below earlier and inspected for that and I did confirm that stuff has in fact been replaced thinking I need a seven mil for that? I'll bring an eight just in case. but I think it's a seven millimeter to get that bolt off for the regulator, we're going to pull that out and inspect that. I've got a feeling that I'm gonna find several small things that are adding up causing the uh, the situation with this Jeep So this may end up being a fix it as we diagnose type of situation and we find one fault. Fix that, find another fault, fix that and uh, keep on going until we run out of uh things that I find or until uh, the symptom has resolved itself and I'm wondering if we do have a fuel delivery issue. Perhaps it's just running really, really lean thus contributing to the customer's statement that uh, we got here okay, I've got this pressure regulator under the light here. uh, not looking too great there. That might be a tear, it's really tough to see. Yeah. I'm going to go ahead and get a replacement regulator and uh, we'll see if that helps us out a little bit. Okay, just got back from Parts run. I've got a new regulator here Let's uh, toss this guy in and see if we can't get that fuel pressure to come back into spec. I I'm assuming that the uh, the pump is good. Uh, it is brand new. If I run into a dead end right here, then uh, we'll We'll address that pump but it is running when it's commanded on and it is making a decent pressure from what I've seen so far. But uh, you seem to have a pressure control issue so let's get this guy in. Ah, mosquitoes, it's that time of day where the Skeeters are coming for me. We'll slip this guy in. not without some lube. we won't I'll just give this a little bit of a little dielectric right here. Lube that O-ring so it does not tear during uh installation because that will be bad. We don't want that. How's that inside bore looking? Is there an o-ring in there that I missed? I Think it's left over? Yeah. I think it is left over in there I Don't see it on this old regulator. Let's see if I can't fish that thing out. That also would be bad to double over in that come over, you got her? Yeah, there it is. all right. let's just clean that out. There's kind of some Rust looking build up stuff in there and we don't want that to cause some kind of a leak internally and uh, not, fix our problem here. There we go. Nice and shiny as I'm gonna get it. Okay, uh. new regulator there you are. Slide this bad boy in. you gonna go give it a twist and a snap I Just fell into the seat. keep twisting it so that O-ring settles there. We go and get our clamp back on and we'll try again. stay one bolt. I Also picked up some uh vacuum fittings and whatnot so I can make a make repairs to these. uh for the damaged vacuum system here. Click all right. let's go key this bad boy on and try to restart it and see if we get any change in engine operation. Maybe we will. Maybe we won't but we're gonna get somewhere. Keon checking for leaks I See none. Restocking is the Jeep engine. It's alive. see how it does on a restart? Yeah, about the same. Okay, well. let's go ahead and throw the gauge back on there and we can at least see if we've got an improvement. Our pressure fuel line kicks there. We go put that where we can see it kind of key off, key on. There's really no improvement there. Picks up this vacuum line right here and we'll put it back into it and see if that changes anything. One other thing worth mentioning is our Evac canister down here connected right there. but it's it's a very poor connection and it says the other side of that canister is not connected. I'm going to go ahead and remove that. We're going to cap off this section of this uh of this fitting right here. stop the leak and then uh, see what? I can't do? Come here you and then we'll get that uh regulator connected and I've got some caps here I think it's it might be this one. No, no, it's the little one here. We'll cap that one off. No, it is the bigger one I'm wrong, but that's really wrong. There we go. All right. Our Regulators now connected to vacuum Source like it could be at our fuel pressure connected reconnected now. Fuel pressure does look a little low according to this gauge, but this is a loaner tool so it may not be accurate somewhere. Backfire, feel a little bit better. See what? Let's pack up these goodies and disconnect this fuel pressure gauge right here and let's go out and hit the road real quick. and uh, see how this thing performs? So they gotten it? This might actually be it. Ah, the plot thickens. Fantastic. All right. Well, let me shut it down while. I uh, get this thing ready to roll I'll refill the coolant on it and I can address that later. Yeah, it's it's coming out of the water pump. Big look right there. So we're gonna put a water pump in this thing later on too. Maybe. But I want to get it running properly first and then I can? uh I can do my upsell thing? Yeah, yeah. okay. intakes back on regulator should be regulating. Uh, let's uh, let's go hit the road real quick and see if this thing runs like it's supposed to. Let's go for a ride. that's not a good sign. Come on Jeep What are you doing? gas on it? Jeep you're killing me. Battery's low too. Recommend Starter Man that was almost hopeful there. It's alive now. All right I guess I'm gonna know really quick if I got an improvement out of this or not backing out as a Jeep the Horn's inoperative. We need to make this quick because uh does have that coolant leak and I don't want to overheat this I'm sure it's already been hot before plenty of times I hear some suspension clanking around. It's pretty good that was that was responsive the breaking traffic. Let's go go a little better. It's already getting out of its own way now. I'm not going far so uh, we're turning around somewhere. probably down here you gonna go or what power? Not very much of it, but it's got it. That was loud and scary I Miss Windows I'd rather ride a motorcycle than drive a Jeep No offense Jeep people just how I feel. Let's get back in there. Yeah, we're not hot yet, but I don't want to chance it. we're right there. This thing needs a clutch too. It's very vibrating. okay I I think we did get a little somewhere with this I don't like how it uh, doesn't like to restart. Let's see how it does on a hot restart. little better. I was poking around I uh I Found a vacuum leak over here at the end of this line right there. so I went ahead and just capped it off for now to eliminate that still isn't one of the greatest, but I figured while I'm here I'll go ahead and check the rest of this vacuum stuff Ed off this line right here. going to the valve cover. That thing is completely plugged up right there. so I'm gonna go ahead and that if I can I better take that out. I'm just going to go ahead and move that real quick. real quick. Make sure that's not our problem though. Also, it feels a little clogged up too. That's for the uh, the map sensor right there. Oh look at that now. it runs a little better. All right. Yeah, I'm gonna go ahead and pull these fittings out and clean those up and put those back in next three. Powering down: Check: engine light was on. That's odd because I don't think I have anything disconnected that should have triggered that light. Well anyway, let's go ahead and get those things apart and uh, see if we can get a change a better change out of this thing. An improvement. That's what we're looking for. that's the word. An improvement. I think that's going to be a 15 mil was I right? Of course they might be standard. The reason I'm gonna pull these out is if I poke a hole in that and dislodge that debris, it's going to send it straight into the intake manifold and then the cylinders will consume it. Oh gravity, it's okay I know where it went and we don't want the cylinders to consume engine debris. Okay, here's the one I dropped. That one is not clogged up, which is good. No obstructions in the hole. Let's just go ahead and blow this out. We'll give it an engine wash at the same time. Get that guy back right where she goes. but this guy. that one's the one that is plugged up. So let's uh, let's poke a hole in it. Get all that carbon and build up or whatever out of there. Oh, that's nasty. It's very plugged up. Too bad this is just PCV and doesn't go to that map sensor. I Would feel really good about that. I Don't think this is going to fix it, but it's uh, definitely not supposed to be clogged like this. Okay, got that thing free and clear. Yeah, you can see through there. that obstruction is now gone. Let's go ahead and tighten these things, back down and reconnect everybody. And uh, then we'll try again. Stick and, uh, double click. Okay, let's go ahead and give it a restart. Thank you Bad, they're right there. I Don't like that it's not right. not just yet. Okay, so I uh I Fired up the compressor I'm gonna go ahead and bust out the assault blow gun later. Uh, clean off all this debris that's hanging out. Uh, right down there with the manifolds. they're bolting to the head while that thing's filling up. I'm gonna go ahead and pop out all these relays and take a look at them. I Think one of these is an ASD relay and if that thing's got a poor connection, or if it's faulty, it can cause all sorts of Chrysler problems. So like I said, while that's doing that, let's pop these relays out and take a look at those. May Maybe we'll find something. Maybe we won't. but it's worth taking a look. Yeah, that's crusty next. Oh yeah, that's that's nasty right there. All right. we need a tool to help us I choose my welding pliers. that's a cross-o-matic Oh that one's very concerning over there here. I'm just gonna go ahead and hit these with a little uh wire brush. see if we can't clean them up some. I have a handheld wire brush. but I couldn't find the thing to save my life today so we're using the rotary cleaner. Seems to be working kinda more speed that compressor is full. Foreign? Okay. I've got some electrical contact cleaner here I'm gonna go ahead and spray all this stuff out. not the assault though gun. this is just the regular blow gun. We're going to clean all this out of here spray and then put these relays back. Stinky. So much stuff to fix. Uh, let's see that one goes right there and this was the nasty one. That one goes I Think that's the right spot. Hope so there and there. Okay, restarting. Let's see if we get an improvement or not. Okay, we're keyed on again. I'm just gonna use my button it runs, still throttle and see what happens. Yeah, about the same. I Don't know if that had any effect or not. see if we got a weaken the brake booster Maybe Oh, that's not it. Okay shutting it down again. Lots of dead ends on this truck. Okay, it's getting late I'm headed home. We're gonna try this again tomorrow, but before I go, let's clean all that schmoo out of there. We don't need any of that. All right guys. I'm gonna go ahead and call this video good. The thing still isn't right and I have yet to determine exactly what is causing the low power situation and the misfiring. It's not right, it's improved, but I'm not happy with it. There's something else going on so I'm gonna have to start again and revisit this thing first thing tomorrow morning. I'd like to thank you for watching this video. And most importantly, don't forget to have yourselves a great day.!
And don’t forget….doo da doo da doo answer the phone!
These 4.0's over heat so easy. The first thing owners do is yank the clutch fan and put a CHEAP electric fan on it. Leave the clutch fan but all a pusher fan in front of the radiator.
When topping off the coolant, do not forget to raise the rear wheels about 8 inches and then pull the "BURP" plug at the back of the intake to get the trapped air out.
That is a YJ, dude.
I have a OTC scanner that is able to do OBD I. It saves me a lot of time diagnosing older vehicles.
Those water pumps were the bane of the 4.0 I had a 01 cherokee and to put two on it. It never did cool as good after the original mone failed.
That was hard to watch.
Get a crank and rods from an AMC 4.2L (258cci) and bore the 4.0 block 0.060" over for a 4.7L STROKER. These can be bored and stroked to 5 liters.
Didn’t see it elsewhere, but putting a clutch fan in is better than the electric fan that they’ve used.
Fixed a keep with similar problems. Was a restricted radiator and cap
Going to say after several yrs of watching you… you as a owner seems less of your real funny stuff each seams stressed … i trully get it
Wow, Hate to see this guys bill. 2 days still no answer
Knock is the answer…I
You Are an Excellent Technician Rainman, diagnose and only save the parts cannon for the last resort car invasion….
Water in gas and spark plugs is my non professional diagnosis
With that much rust in the fuel rail I would be looking at the fuel tank for rust-water.Also most likely the injectors are not flowing properly.
Check the plugs and check for a Blow head gasket
used to own a jeep CJ5 and belonged to a Jeep club, and water pumps were a well known problem, usually the bearings in the pump failed with short life.
Fuel injectors have my vote. Can't wait for part 2 to see fix.
Bruh. Ray. knowing how you run things here. i have a feeling i know what your expecting from this comment so i will give you what you want.. close that dang door before you pull into your garage.
I've never had a 4.0 that didn't need throttle on a hot start.
watching the video you can see that the fuel pressure spikes long before the jeep has even begun to start.
I know you know way more than me but I seem to remember those engines tend to crack a head if they get hot
i would check compression on all cylinders. It almost sounds like 1 cylinder is loosing compession.
Pain in the but
I’m sure you’ll find it
Cheers from Nova Scotia
That was a fun jump down the rabbit hole, or the opening of a can of worms on a 27 year old vehicle. Every piece that you investigate probably needs replacing or cleaning even if it doesn't correct the main problem…. lol
Badass, can't wait for more on this jeep 🤙🏽
power side on injector
Is this the second vehicle you've had with exactly 156,000 miles on it?
Leaving us hanging! Looking forward to part 2. And 3 and 4 probably at this rate! 👍👍👍
Check the map it may have a leak in the diaphragm causing faulty readings
Do a leak down test please
You kept squirting fuel out while testing, I was hoping you didn't Jay Leno yourself.
Typically, the largest "new part" issues I have hade are with master cylinders and brake calipers. There have been a few other parts but those are not as common as the other two
Just a quick note on the thermal imager – the temp was showing "> 842", which means the temp was outside it's range for detection.
Doing a quick check on the Snap-On site, their imagers max out at 840F, so a 2 degree margin of error, at those temps, is understandable. So while "red hot" may have been hyperbole, it's certainly closing in on reality!
There was a spate of counterfeit Walbro fuel pumps a few years ago.
It's an old 4.0 jeep, if it's not running good it means it's not leaking enough oil
She lean, full fuel system overhaul.i had a regulator give me hell on my jeep, causing misfires and all sorts of hell,I was certain it was ignition related,then injectors( had 330k on them) no change. After about 1200$ in parts I sent it to a shop they had found one failed injector( new one) and failed regulator.they will pull fuel from the regulator and suck it through the vacuum system.with that hard start it almost sounds like it's a crank sensor going bad.
The 94 Wrangler has a mechanical radiator fan in it. Why would they take that out and kludge in some electrical fan?
Cam sensor ?
Chitty chitty bang bang cheap jeep!
Thanks for another great vid
Code 54 is the distributor sync sensor, also known as the cam position sensor. It controls fuel injector timing. It's possible the sensor itself went bad, but it's also not uncommon for the bearings in the distributor to develop some radial play, which will screw with the sensor reading, which screws with the injector timing. Worn distributor gears can also cause similar issues.
But I will say most of the codes there are from unplugging things and reconnecting while it's running. You can clear them out by leaving the battery disconnected for a few minutes, then take it for a short drive and check again for what came back.
While maybe not worth it to a professional who doesn't know if they'll be using the tools again, it's still possible to get the diagnostic connectors. They're sold new in $$$$ full kits, or available used online. Most of the older cables will still plug into newer diagnostic tools, although generally I've seen them included with an old tool, usually a Snap-on scanner. I picked one up pretty cheap off ebay a couple years ago, (non touch-screen Solus), and it's been a pretty decent investment at least for an enthusiast. There's not a ton of data and tests to be had compared to what you get from a modern car, but it at least gives you something.
Far be it for me to tell you how to do your job, but with a car running like that, having a long term fuel pressure issue, I'd have pulled the plugs by now, to check their condition. And isn't chasing vacuum leaks just the pits! Though one leak is going to affect everything else on the same vacuum circuit.
Thanks
This poor Jeep has had many years of neglect. Carbon plugged vacuum port and many vacuum leaks. Heavy rust in the fuel rail. Clapped out water pump. Dead cooling fan. Disconnected wires. So far, it looks like more parts will be required. That studder at mid throttle looks strangely familiar. Is the distributor advancing at all?
94 grand Cherokee. It was given to me with a runability problem. Yup free jeep. Ran good for a few minutes then terrible. Came with 10 years of receipts. Was told it had a new fuel pump. After a week of fumbling around I realized the brand new fuel pump was bad from the start. Warrantied the pump and it ran great for years.
Given the state of your engine I would suspect your injectors are hosed or at least one is. I’m no mechanic though. Just a shade tree guy.
Erick O worked on a Jeep that had a return line from the fuel pump that was rotten and not letting the fuel pump get full pressure. It caused starting problems
What is that, like, 10 fuses and 4 relays? Thank god Chrysler hadn't invented the Totally Idiotic Power Module yet!
Those mistreated old clunker's can be a real time consuming pain !
Good luck
My buddy had a Mustang that was running bad intermittently due to a missing ground strap. That ground strap might be important whether or not it is the fix.
Years ago I had an 1988 Cherokee with a 4.0, had a no start issue, or a hard start issue, turned out to be a Throttle position sensor gone bad.
PARTZOOKA!!!!! My favorite. ❤
had a 95 yj 4.0l really messed up the engine off roading, ended up replacing it with a jasper reman 4.0L. Reused a lot of the external motor components and sent out a lot to be cleaned in ultrasonic bath. One thing that always bothered my was how filthy the fuel rail and the injectors were on my yj, I should have just replaced them but I used a loaner injector cleaner, judging from that fuel pressure regulator there may be a similar story, but I don't know why it would cause a hang up like that. you wouldn't believe the amount of crap that came out.
my bet, it got a new distributor and cables judging from how its the cleanest component in that engine bay someone missaligned the rotor, pretty easy to do from experience.
I'm fairly certain also that random piece of wire with he connector you found under the hood tucked away would have been for the optional hood light, mine had one just like that and assumed that's what it was for.
Retarded ignition timing can cause exhaust manifold to get red hot.
happy Early Thanksgiving Ray and everyone else
Ray, My non-K car Chrysler LeBaron had OBD-1 as does my old faithful '92 Honda Civic Hatchback, and the data over time from adjusting back and forth, the occasional emf spike or whatever, they just get garbage in their data.
You reset the data by pulling a specific wire or fuse I think, that clears the data and loads the default values.
Also with multiple codes I would clear it after writing them down, then drive the car and pull the codes again, often one or more would not return, so I didn't do more look at the system, and pull codes again in a week or so if other problems were corrected.
Another thing, disconnecting the map sensor plug or vacuum line would light the check engine light.
Fuel Injected Engines:
Code 54 – Camshaft (or distributor sync.) reference circuit – No camshaft position sensor signal detected during engine rotation.
Code 54 is no cam sync signal during cranking
Code 54 where are you?
Not cool… the cannons made me jump
Hope you can fix this one.
Heh, I wish I had one of those, maybe even older one… But old Jeeps are expensive in good old Norway, and I never bothered to get a drivers licence anyways (But if a old Willys or wrangler drop in my lap, I will just have to reconsider).
Charcoal canister has nothing to do with crappy idle and slow response the vaccine line from the canister suppose to go on the oem air box for the fuel problem jeeps are notorious for not starting after being warm you can do that by slapping a check valve closer to the motor fuel line and it looks like it has a weak spark so I would check the distributer the cam pos scensor should be built in but if it’s not swap it out because my xj ram like that when mine was taking a dump also chanklgw the cps and you should get a better start that one might be shot or try cleaning the area where it mounts it could have build up dirt around it or where the magnet rests long story short/ swap out distributor/ crank position scensor should be on top of the bell housing you need long extension or spaghetti fingers hope that helps email me if you still can’t figure it out
Consider Checking engine base timing and the signal from distributor to the ECM as a cam sensor, people pointed out that is code 54
Best Video yet!!
That's a YJ!
Ray look at a Bosch OBD 1300 scan tool it will give you OBD 1 & OBD 2 in one.
It sure didn’t take long for your business name and location to hit the google map Ray!
It's like a 60's TV show starring Fred Gwynne: Code 54, What Are You?
… Am I showing my age? Why yes. Yes, I am.
Code 54 – Cam Sensor
Possible EGR valve?
54 could be the cam shaft detector and that flat ribbon cable connects in side the distributor.
Those crusty fuses and relays are why I always hit mine with some no ox id. That problem is a thing of the past once you do that.
Ray moving up in the world. One day he's working on rental Toyotas, and the next he's working on soon-to-be classic cars.
How far are you from Jacksonville, FL?
great video
Just keep throwing new parts in it. It is a Jeep after all. Says an owner of a 2016 Patriot! LOL Spark plugs, another
vacuum leak, I can keep going….
Just tuned. Put on a cool looking air filter. Would drive across country tomorrow. Price is firm!
Well done Ray 👌
The problem is that it doesn't have a 258ci International 6
It certainly has evidence of having sat for a long time with dead gas in it. Can’t help but wonder if the rust/corrosion damaged the injectors.
55 to 69 kPa.. thats like 10psi? Could you imagine 60psi on a 6 cylinder Jeep? Zoinks?
Those railway tracks are going to be great when you need to go looking for bumps on your test drives
Just empty every pocket, works every time.
Won't be suprised if you find some heck old sparks plugs there.
The jeep from hell everything that don't work right lol
I miss the phone in the shop ringing.
Ray! I know it looks new but check the cap and rotor.
My volvo did this EXACT same thing and the rotor button had melted.
i'd check idle vacuum see if jumping around.
Fuel getting dumped. Pull intake/exhaust manifolds to check valves with a borescope. My bet is exhaust valves sticking open causing the fuel to pass through without being combusted.
how do I make a apointmint
Nothing wrong here that a few
thou$$ won't fix.
Is it a Chrysler problem or a Fiat problem ??
Not having doors can lead to missing limbs , even in low speed fender benders, in spite of fastened safety belts…….
Hope to see more on this one
Jeeps are known to have pretty good off road ability. That way, you can leave the thing out in the middle of nowhere when it breaks down, where no one has to see it.
This diag and video was painful to watch. Maybe one of the worst I've seen from Ray
Bad cam or crank sensor will cause the hard start. The PCM computer is looking for that signal if it doesn't get it it shuts down the fuel and prevents a start. They could also affect the timing.
Ahh, happy to hear (last video) that things are taking off well for you. Glad you r happy with your life goals and yeah! Cheers
First!